[zenpmd]

I'm thinking of getting this for my XLR. This will definitely conduct to the chassis, right?

Its a crimp design too as I am trying to go solderless as there is a chance I will replace this case in a year.

http://www.neutrik.co.uk/en-uk/xlr/dlx-crimp-series/nc3fd-lx-ha-bag

http://www.neutrik.co.uk/en-uk/xlr/dlx-crimp-series/nc3fd-lx-ha

[Julf]

I assume I'd know if that chassis connection is a good connection because if it wasnt, because Nampon is connected to it then the amp wouldnt produce a sound?

That is a somewhat dangerous assumption. nAMPON is very easy to drive, with a small DC current - thus the resistance and inductance between nAMPON and ground can be pretty high, and it would still work. AC ground noise, especially high frequency noise, is another matter.

Yes, you can use the smps mounting post as the main ground point, but in that case, I would still ensure the XLR connector is well grounded to the chassis, and I would ground pin 1 and the audio input cable sheath to the chassis as close to the XLR as possible. How is your XLR mounted? Using screws? Can you maybe use one of the mounting screws as a chassis contact point?

When you said normal wire what is that? I need to buy some of it for this IEC earthing to the SMPS. Can you send me a link?

Any normal electrical wire will do.

FINALLY so sorry for being so badly spoon fed here!!!!!!!!! I am so grateful for your time

No prob - glad to be able to help!

[Julf]

I'm thinking of getting this for my XLR. This will definitely conduct to the chassis, right?

Depends on your chassis. If it is anodized the contact might not be too good, but that is easy to measure with a multimeter.

[zenpmd]

Depends on your chassis. If it is anodized the contact might not be too good, but that is easy to measure with a multimeter.

So what can I do just file the area a bit to ensure proper transmission?

[zenpmd]

That is a somewhat dangerous assumption. nAMPON is very easy to drive, with a small DC current - thus the resistance and inductance between nAMPON and ground can be pretty high, and it would still work. AC ground noise, especially high frequency noise, is another matter.

Yes, you can use the smps mounting post as the main ground point, but in that case, I would still ensure the XLR connector is well grounded to the chassis, and I would ground pin 1 and the audio input cable sheath to the chassis as close to the XLR as possible. How is your XLR mounted? Using screws? Can you maybe use one of the mounting screws as a chassis contact point?

Any normal electrical wire will do.

No prob - glad to be able to help!

Good idea! Thats what I will do, I use one of the screw mounts. Again would a file the area a bit to ensure transmission?

[zenpmd]

My siliconray has a pre-drilled slot for an IEC connector of the small, standard size. What is the recommended way to cut the larger required hole for an IEC with a built in switch? I can't see it being easy!!!

[Julf]

So what can I do just file the area a bit to ensure proper transmission?

Probably good idea - and measure resistance once you have installed the connector.

[Julf]

My siliconray has a pre-drilled slot for an IEC connector of the small, standard size. What is the recommended way to cut the larger required hole for an IEC with a built in switch? I can't see it being easy!!!

A special hole punch is the best way, but lacking that, a small saw blade and a lot of hard work with a file...

[clpetersen]

Probably good idea - and measure resistance once you have installed the connector.

Agreed. You can also buy piercing-style washers made for this purpose, although mainly for painted chassis. Use that and a small amount of conductive grease. You can get both from Amazon, or Parts Express. The conductive grease is also good on speakers terminals. As pointed out in the white paper by the chief engineer at McIntosh, one of the (hypothesized) improvements in sound quality from cable 'upgrades' was simply removing corrosion from the contacts, which can have a measurable rectification (e.g. diode) effect. Rare, but the grease will last a lifetime. Marinas usually carry it for salt water applications as well.  Do not use 'dielectric' grease for automotive applications - it is by design highly insulating.

But, double check with a multimeter. Measure earth ground points to the grounding terminal on your (attached to the power inlet) cable.

[zenpmd]

Thanks all. In terms of internal wire, I was going to order something from here as I am doing a general order with them. Any recommendations on (roughly) what I should go for?

http://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/wire.html

[Julf]

Thanks all. In terms of internal wire, I was going to order something from here as I am doing a general order with them. Any recommendations on (roughly) what I should go for?

http://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/wire.html

As I said before, just us normal connector wire, kept as short as possible. You don't need any supposedly fancy "hifi" wire - copper is copper. Pretty much all cables are made in a few, big cable plants in China, what you pay for in the expensive "audiophile" wires is packaging, labeling and marketing. Get proper 2.5mm or heavier grade mains wiring cable from your local hardware store.

Much more important than the brand of the cable is the twisting, especially of the loudspeaker wires. Make sure you follow the directions on twisting and avoiding loops diligently.
 

[zenpmd]

Cool. I subscribe to the same view. Thats why I use Van Damme speaker cables.

With the internal speaker wire, does that you want some with very little insulation so they twist better? Van Damme go from 0.75mm to 6mm!

[Julf]

Cool. I subscribe to the same view. Thats why I use Van Damme speaker cables.

Yes, that is what I use from my nc400's to my speakers too - Black Series Tour Grade  4 x 4mm.

With the internal speaker wire, does that you want some with very little insulation so they twist better? Van Damme go from 0.75mm to 6mm!

6 mm is probably too thick to twist neatly. I use 4mm, but for the short run inside the amp enclosure, pretty much any cable with enough current capability will be fine.

[jtwrace]

Yes, that is what I use from my nc400's to my speakers too - Black Series Tour Grade  4 x 4mm.

I've never heard of this stuff.  Is it the equivalent to Mogami or Belden?

[zenpmd]

its a popular cable used in recording studios, Abbey Road, for one.

[jtwrace]

its a popular cable used in recording studios, Abbey Road, for one.

Yeah, I saw that.

[zenpmd]

I use the 6mm and it bends beautifully. Just has a weight and lays lovely. The difference between blue and black range is that the latter is more rigid. Its very well made.

[Julf]

I've never heard of this stuff.  Is it the equivalent to Mogami or Belden?

My main reason to pick Van Damme was that they do multi-conductor ones (as I am using an active speaker setup, I need 4 separate channels per speaker).

[Julf]

I use the 6mm and it bends beautifully.

Great! The thing to watch out for is making sure you keep the two wires close to each other by the output connectors on the nc400 - it is all too easy to form a loop antenna.

[zenpmd]

When I said 6mm I meant for my external cables not internal!! That would never work!