[kinku]

Hi ,
I am looking for a Budget integrated amp (less than 2000$) for my full range speakers.  I am sorry but not planning on Tube amplifiers now (I am not happy with the idea of burining 200-300Watts for getting 50Watts from my amplifier  ). I am looking for solid state integrated.
I may consider an amp with tube pre-amp perhaps.But not decided. There are many integrated with huge power ratings, but not many ( I believe) with 40-50 Watt range in real audiophile range.
I may need a subwoofer out  or pre out for using with a subwoofer from the integrated.
Please help me out..

[Freo-1]

Check this one out: (Yamaha A-S2000)
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=117418.0
 
One of the best hi end buys in audio (IMHO).  Easily competes with the 7000.00 Pass Labs INT-150.   Available at many outlets for less than 1600.00 shipped.

[JLM]

What speakers?  (efficiency, room size, synergy, how loud do you listen, if full-range/why a sub?)  Would your budget include a sub?

Would you consider used?

Note that most subs allow option for high current signal to pass through to the mains thus eliminating sending the deeper (power hungry) bass to the mains.

NuForce DDA-100 is highly efficient, 50 wpc, with much greater peak capacity, compact, stylish, well reviewed, only $550 but only accepts digital inputs and one set of high current outputs.

Rega Biro is another respected 50 wpc solid state integrated, but cost more.

If you're set on spending that kind of money, consider Redgum RGI35ENR (35 wpc, $1800).

[kinku]

Freo you gave me hope for few minutes.Unfortunately  Yamaha A-S2000 is 90W nominal rated and will send my  Fostex FF125WK to heaven in few minutes. 
JLM nice to hear from you. It is a bass reflex design I built few months ago and absolutely in love with it. It is built for roll off at about 70 Hz(Thanks to MJK). So it needs a sub to help.
I am planning on a sunfire HRS10 or SVS sub to support them(that is separate money). I will consider used(but not vintage). Having a remote is a plus.
High pass through is when you send the line level signal to sub and the out from sub to amp configuration?

[dB Cooper]

The Van Alstine integrated fits into your budget but is also 90wpc. Solution to protecting the speakers? Appropriate fuses. There may be lower powered amps more suitable though. The AVA wouldn't break a sweat running the Fostexes. AVA could even tweak the gain to give you more effective range on the  volume control with your hi sensitivity speaks.

[Freo-1]

Freo you gave me hope for few minutes.Unfortunately  Yamaha A-S2000 is 90W nominal rated and will send my  Fostex FF125WK to heaven in few minutes. 
JLM nice to hear from you. It is a bass reflex design I built few months ago and absolutely in love with it. It is built for roll off at about 70 Hz(Thanks to MJK). So it needs a sub to help.
I am planning on a sunfire HRS10 or SVS sub to support them(that is separate money). I will consider used(but not vintage). Having a remote is a plus.
High pass through is when you send the line level signal to sub and the out from sub to amp configuration?

I do not think the Yamaha will damage your Fostex driver in any way.  Most speakers get blown from TOO LITTLE power, not too much.  The Yamaha has some sophisticated speaker protection.  Your ears will easily prevent any damage from occurring.  There are audiophiles who run efficient speakers with McIntosh 1KW amps!     
 

Do not discount the Yamaha on a too much power issue. 

[kinku]

Freo no offense,but that is not very accurate.
please read this article which states at the end
"If you are looking for a recommendation so that you would be relatively free of
blowing up the speaker under almost any real world condition, you should pick
an amplifier that can deliver the continuous rating of the speaker or a little less."

http://www.peavey.com/support/technotes/poweramps/HOW_MUCH_POWER.pdf

[Freo-1]

No offense taken.   

The speaker max power range is 50 watts.   Most music is at far less than one watt, especially with a speaker such as the Fostex.   The driver would not wear out from a thermal issue,  Therefore, I think you would be fine. 
 
From the reference you provided: 

" It has been our experience at Peavey that most woofer failures are caused by

exceeding excursion limits, while tweeters usually fail due to thermal problems."   
 
 

"The number one reason … operator malfunction. Amplifiers don’t kill speakers,

people kill speakers (see our white paper titled “Top 10 Ways To ‘TOAST’

Speakers and Diaphragms”). Inexperienced operators often try to use a system

that just doesn’t have enough power (speakers and amps and AC power) to do

the job properly, not the power of the speakers themselves. This results in

pushing the system way too hard and making failures more common. Learn the

capabilities of your equipment and practice a little restraint. If you start hearing

distortion, the system is asking for your help … and don’t bury the clip lights.

they are on more than briefly (with the beat of the music), trouble is just around

the corner. "
 
So, the take away from the reference provided is that too little power will be much more of an issue than too much.  Again, I do not think you have to worry.  Even at moderately loud levels, I doubt you would be putting over 50 watts into the speaker from any amp that can supply sufficient power.
 
If I were you, I would ring Fostex, see what they say.   You may want to consider an in-line fuse for speaker protection, regardless of the amp you wind up choosing.

[Johlke]

I'd definitely check out the NAD amps.  They make several nice integrated amps that will give you good sound within your budget.

[opnly bafld]

Maybe something British?

http://sonneteer.co.uk/home/frontpage/

http://www.exposurehifi.com/our-products.html

http://www.creekaudio.com/integrated-amplifiers/

http://www.rega.co.uk/html/products.htm

[James Romeyn]

Exposure 2010S2 70W about $1700 MSRP.

I'd love to hear that $2k Yamaha mentioned earlier.  Love the classic looks reminiscent of the Golden Age of Japanese electronics.  In fact I thought it was a vintage 70s piece when I first saw the images.     

[Rocket]

Hi,

You could check out this amplifier and its made in the US.

http://www.avahifi.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=267&Itemid=229

Also, consider using audiogon which has lots of second hand amplifiers for sale.

Regards Rod

[Freo-1]

Maybe an in-line fuse to protect the speaker may be your best option if you chose an amp that is 60 to 90 WPC?  That would ensure protection if your volume knob was high and you put on the 1812 Overture.   

[dB Cooper]

Uhh, I think I made both those suggestions in post #4... Just sayin'...

Fostex should be able to recommend a suitable fuse that will protect the speakers from long term overpowering while letting dynamics shine.

[dB Cooper]

I'd definitely check out the NAD amps.  They make several nice integrated amps that will give you good sound within your budget.

This is a  good suggestion too- Go NAD 

[James Romeyn]

Rogue Audio has at least one integrated (IIRC two or three) below $2k MSRP.  They all received great press, and all USA made! 

[Freo-1]

Uhh, I think I made both those suggestions in post #4... Just sayin'...

Fostex should be able to recommend a suitable fuse that will protect the speakers from long term overpowering while letting dynamics shine.

You sure did.      
 
Just trying to back that thought up as a good option. 

[wisnon]

A pair of TBI Millenia or the NuForce DDA-100

[Ericus Rex]

Freo no offense,but that is not very accurate.
please read this article which states at the end
"If you are looking for a recommendation so that you would be relatively free of
blowing up the speaker under almost any real world condition, you should pick
an amplifier that can deliver the continuous rating of the speaker or a little less."

http://www.peavey.com/support/technotes/poweramps/HOW_MUCH_POWER.pdf

Any system that contains a volume control will accomplish this...even a system with a 2,000 watt amp.  Don't limit yourself to a specified power range based on where the speaker blows up. Search this site for "how much power do I really need" type posts and you'll quickly find that you usually use less than 1 watt and rarely over 20...regardless of the wattage of the amp.  That is, unless you have rocking uber-loud parties and such.

[kinku]

Rex, a volume control in pre amplifier has very few things to do with the power being delivered to a speaker.Pre amplifier ONLY adjust the gain ,in my understanding. If you try to deliver 100 Watts RMS power to a 50 watts nominal rated speaker the chances are that one of those days you may burn the speaker coil. As long as there is no signal at input of the amp , the power delivered is 100 watts for a 100watt rated amplifier. You can attenuate the input signal ( by using a pre amp) but does not guarantee that it may not clip the signal depending on the source output signal level.( for example for squeezebox see how it is explained (http://wiki.slimdevices.com/index.php/Connecting_directly_to_a_power_amplifier)  .
 Again most speakers handle the power-surge unless it is tremendously huge,because heat can be dissipated .But if that persists you will end up with a burned speaker,amplifier or both. When there is clipping we unknowingly turn down the gain (most of the time) so nothing happens in all practical situations. The power delivered as sound is near what you all said,about 1-2 Watts ,because that is the efficiency of most of the speakers,rest being dissipated as heat in the voice coil. It is not because you are delivering 1 watt to the speaker from your 100 watts amplifier but that's all you can achieve with a moving coil speaker.
I thought about the fuse in line with the speaker ,again it will be an easy solution ,but at least in theory all fuses are resistive devices and how that will affect the amplifier speaker circuit is unknown. May be the effects will be nothing. But i would like to hear more opinions if there is any. Exposure is a good one, Soneteer does not seems to be selling in US. nUFORCE DDA and TBI millenia does not have a sub out.
I am looking for something that can be controlled with a remote.
Thanks for your suggestions....