Urgently need to buy or borrow . .

S Clark · « **Reply #20 on:** 9 Jul 2013, 01:49 am »

If that old arm is dead, then rob the male DIN plug from it and use it in the new one. You should be able to solder blue to blue, black to black, etc... It might be easier to leave a bit of the old wire and simply solder wire to wire instead of resoldering to the pin. That wire is not easy to work with. Tiny stuff.

I've got the same tonearm, and therefore the same issue. I ordered a new plug from PartsConnection- just haven't got around to finishing the project. Hopefully this week.
Scott

jimdgoulding · « **Reply #21 on:** 9 Jul 2013, 02:08 am »

Thanks, Scott. What we do to deserve an issue like that? Not something I was expecting. Let me know how it goes for you before I attempt anything. Hope blakep will give us the benefit of his experience.

*Scotty* · « **Reply #22 on:** 9 Jul 2013, 02:10 am »

Jim, the new collar sure looks like it has set-screws which require an Allen wrench or hex-wrench to be inserted into the hexagonal shaped recess in the set-screw. With luck all you have to do is go to ACE Hardware and buy a set of Allen wrenches which contain the correct size wrench or hex-key if you prefer. The wires should follow the same color coding as your tone arm leads.
Scotty

jimdgoulding · « **Reply #23 on:** 9 Jul 2013, 02:42 am »

On a higher magnification look and rummaging around I found an Allen wrench to fit. Problem solved if I don't strip the tiny bolt heads tightening to the post. But, I don't think I will attempt what Scott is undertaking to do unless I can't get the ebay seller to provide what I believe I had the right to expect or refund me. Just what I didn't need.

S Clark · « **Reply #24 on:** 9 Jul 2013, 03:04 am »

Jim,
My first attempt was to solder the tonearm wiring to a set of rca jacks rigged to the edge of my plinth, but it had a significant hum. I tried wrapping the wiring in Al foil and connecting to a ground, but it didn't help. I'll try to get to that project Wed. and let you know how it turns out.

Scott

jimdgoulding · « **Reply #25 on:** 9 Jul 2013, 06:55 am »

Best wishes, Scott, is all I can offer.

neobop · « **Reply #26 on:** 9 Jul 2013, 12:04 pm »

Quote from: S Clark on 9 Jul 2013, 03:04 am

Jim,
My first attempt was to solder the tonearm wiring to a set of rca jacks rigged to the edge of my plinth, but it had a significant hum. I tried wrapping the wiring in Al foil and connecting to a ground, but it didn't help. I'll try to get to that project Wed. and let you know how it turns out.
Scott

Sorry I lost track of this thread. I thought the problem was solved.

The 370H was used on a Nakamichi table and that's why no DIN plug. The wires probably went to internal posts, connectors.

The old MMT should have a tiny set screw (like the arm base) to hold the DIN plug. This would be a small (approx. 2/3mm) threaded hole around an inch from the bottom of the arm pillar. If the 370 has a similar hole, you can probably use the MMT set screw to hold the DIN plug in place. The OD of these plugs varies somewhat and if you want to install a new plug or transfer the MMT plug to the 370, that hole would make it easier. Chances are, that arm pillar is exactly the same.

Scott,
Got hum? Did you install a ground lug with the RCA jacks? The black wire should go to the ground lug.

I use 4% silver solder on everything. I don't know if conductivity matters much, it's supposed to be stronger. Anyway, tin both the RCA and the end of the wire. When you tin the end of the wire you might want to use a clip as a heat sink to keep the insulation from melting. Make sure the solder goes through the wire and isn't just sitting on the surface. When you solder you need a good physical connection between both pieces. Don't rely on the solder to make the connection. The solder should just hold it in place. Twist the wires in a braid like the wires coming out of a VPI arm. This will help prevent hum. No tin foil should be necessary.
Hope this helps.
neo

blakep · « **Reply #27 on:** 10 Jul 2013, 03:05 am »

I've been away from the this a few days as well. Neo has covered things nicely. The loose wires are a drawback to the 370H-definitely beyond my extremely limited DIY capabilities.

These two threads/posts from other sites may be of interest.

http://www.vinylengine.com/turntable_forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=55260

http://db.audioasylum.com/cgi/search.mpl?forum=vinyl&searchtext=jelco+370h+wires

Two grounding wires on the 370 according to John Elison, so two grounding lugs necessary.

jimdgoulding · « **Reply #28 on:** 10 Jul 2013, 03:23 am »

Really thank you, fellas. Tomorrow I'm gonna try and make contact with the seller and see what can be done. I'm giving thought to seeing if he will give me credit toward the arm originally recommended by blakep upon return unless that leaves me in the same boat. My first choice is to swap straight up for a 370 with a 5 pin receptacle if he has one. We shall see. As a last resort I'll venture to try Scott's plan of attack with a little more help from you guys. Ya'll are the best.

jimdgoulding · « **Reply #29 on:** 12 Jul 2013, 10:06 pm »

This outfit doesn't carry the better arm and hasn't seen a 370 with a DIN plug for years. Probably the one I have is special made for a particular combination of table and arm. They will refund me and that's mighty sweet. So, I'm about to resume shopping.

neobop · « **Reply #30 on:** 15 Jul 2013, 02:33 pm »

I don't know if you've already sent it back, but you might want to reconsider. The MMT has a mounting distance of 221.7mm. There is no current Jelco model with that mounting distance. There is a 750E (10") that mounts at 240. None of the others have that mounting distance, so unless you can find a used MMT, you'll have to make a new armboard. I assume the mounting distance on the 370 is the same as MMT ?

It might be easier to get some help with transferring the DIN plug or wiring the arm to RCAs. If you're in proximity to a tech or shop, it shouldn't be cost prohibitive. There are a number of arms that mount at 222mm, but the Rega arms won't give you the performance you're used to with your Koetsu.
neo

jimdgoulding · « **Reply #31 on:** 20 Jul 2013, 02:03 am »

Quote from: jimdgoulding on 4 Jul 2013, 07:16 pm

A quality pic of my ole table:

As you can see looking at the mounting plate, I could have likely managed the more expensive Jelco but I couldn't bring myself to spend the extra dough.

Yes, regards my headshells, and thanks for your reply. I really do appreciate your time and expertise. I will use to balance azimuth. I've cleaned the metal, waxed the wood base, secured up the nuts and bolts and now I'm just waiting on the replacement arm.

Neo, the mounting board is actually a 5" wide plate with 6 screws holding it to the table itself. The way the plate is rotated now as in the photo has the hole nearly the shortest path to the spindle but the distance can be changed by rotating the plate. As you pointed out, I think, there is an 8mm effective length difference between the Jelco750 9 incher (which I have already paid for) and the Sumiko. Share your thoughts with me either here or in a PM. Thanks.

neobop · « **Reply #32 on:** 20 Jul 2013, 11:19 am »

Jim,
The only thing we are concerned with, at the moment, is mounting distance. Your PM indicated that the MMT was mounted with reduced distance as evidenced by the cart being nearly at collar end of the headshell, to achieve correct alignment. It might be a long shot, but maybe it will be close enough.

Could you measure in mm, the distance from the center of the spindle to the center of the mounting hole? You ought to be able to get this measurement close if you sight from above.
Take it 1 step at a time and maybe we can figure this out. Also, from the photo it looks as if you rotate the armboard clockwise to the next set of mounting bolts, it might be closer. But first, try to get an accurate measurement so we know what we're dealing with.
neo

jimdgoulding · « **Reply #33 on:** 20 Jul 2013, 02:38 pm »

I will later today, thanks. Also, the Jelco 750 has a ten and twelve inch version and the outfit where I ordered it has both in stock. With one of those, it would seem that I could rotate the plate the other way to approach the optimum distance. Wouldn't you agree?

jimdgoulding · « **Reply #34 on:** 20 Jul 2013, 02:40 pm »

I was able to catch it before it shipped (just got off the phone). Share your thoughts with me and I can re-order Monday. Carl at USA Hifi.com is a sweetheart of a guy, so far.

neobop · « **Reply #35 on:** 20 Jul 2013, 04:24 pm »

Quote from: jimdgoulding on 20 Jul 2013, 02:38 pm

I will later today, thanks. Also, the Jelco 750 has a ten and twelve inch version and the outfit where I ordered it has both in stock. With one of those, it would seem that I could rotate the plate the other way to approach the optimum distance. Wouldn't you agree?

Don't count your chickens. First off, get that measurement as close as you can and write it down. The target distances are 214 and 240mm. 12" is 290, but my 8 Ball says, "outlook is doubtful".
If you want to check for 240, undo the armboard mounting bolts, and rotate the armboard 1 or 2 positions counterclockwise and measure again.

Are you sure the mounting pattern is identical? It might not be much of a problem, but the reorientation of the mounting pattern will effect the location of the arm height adjuster. There are 3 different positions you can put it, so it might be OK.

Waiting with bated breath,

neo

S Clark · « **Reply #36 on:** 28 Jul 2013, 12:36 am »

Quote from: S Clark on 9 Jul 2013, 03:04 am

Jim,
My first attempt was to solder the tonearm wiring to a set of rca jacks rigged to the edge of my plinth, but it had a significant hum. I tried wrapping the wiring in Al foil and connecting to a ground, but it didn't help. I'll try to get to that project Wed. and let you know how it turns out.

Scott

Well, after many trials and tribulations, I got my Jelco 370 soldered and operational. Sheesh those are microscopic wires. It literally takes a dissecting scope to see the individual strands(fortunately I have one). I bet the gauge of the multistrand is 33-36 ga, and each has lots of strands. But I got it.

Jim, If you cant bring your tone arm for a visit, send it to me with the din plug and I'll solder it for you.

jimdgoulding · « **Reply #37 on:** 1 Aug 2013, 01:56 am »

Scott, Neobop(daddy), blakep, I owe you a ton of gratitude. Rotating the tonearm mounting plate on my MS table (seen above) with the Jelco 10" arm finally gave me the optimum tonearm effective length to my phono cartridge stylus tip and the vinyl groove. That would have been a no-brainer if the Jelco 9" arm I ordered had the same effective length of the Sumiko MMT arm I screwed up and was trying to replace (they made the son-of-a-bitch) but it did not by a long shot. A 9" Sumiko MMT was available online, but it came with bare wires instead of a DIN plug as did the one I screwed up. Scott has one and endeavored to do the necessary soldering, successfully, but that scared the shite outta me, so, I ordered a 10" Jelco and paid the bloody premium. With some coaching from the Neo, I got the distances right as I thought was possible and I'm hearing beautiful music, again. No different from the Sumiko MMT it replaced- except that it costs me- but, the music is alive in my room once again. Thanks, fellas, many times.

S Clark · « **Reply #38 on:** 1 Aug 2013, 06:36 am »

That's good news Jim (except for the extra $$). Spin some vinyl and give us the skinny on what's playing.

jimdgoulding · « **Reply #39 on:** 1 Aug 2013, 11:34 am »

Scott is S Clark, btw

. Thanks for the well wishes. I listened to a Reference Recording of Berlioz' Symphonie Fantastique and decided to move my speakers out further into my room and a bit more apart so the orchestra had more room to bloom. Keeping them there, too. All is well here.