[Guy 13]

Hi all Audio Circle members.
A few years back,
I got those built by a Vietnamese cabinet maker.
They were my modified V2 from Danny.
They sounded good,
but of course not as good as Danny’s V1.

I stripped those from their V2 drivers and amplifiers
I wanted to keep those enclosures, because there are well made with 1” thick MDF.
My original V1 enclosures were left in Canada, too heavy to bring them back to Vietnam.
However, I brought back to Vietnam Danny’s drivers and the Rythmik amplifiers that will be fitted in when those enclosures are modified.




I’ve chopped off the top portion. (Sorry, no picture)
They were originally designed for 8” drivers,
but I want to use a different approach.





More pictures will follow as work progress.

Guy 13

Note:
I prefer to post this in Danny's circle,
instead of the Enclosure circle,
because those enclosures are fitted with drivers bought from Danny.
If you want, you can move it anywhere you want,
except in the Intergalactic waste bin.

[Guy 13]

Hi all Audio Circle members.

Today I did myself the tear off of the old vinyl of all the sides of my pair of future V1.
Once that was done, the wood surface was not very smooth, so,
I hand sanded the four sides.
I’ve installed myself the roll of vinyl on each of the four sides.
Not too difficult, it’s the trimming of the edges that drive me crazy.
Some time ago the cabinet maker told me that if I use a hot iron with a thick sheet of paper between the iron and the vinyl,
I can remove the wrinkles.
I am sure all of you knew that, but not me.
Anyway, I did it and it works.
I’ve trimmed the edges with a sharp knife, that knife must be sharp, otherwise… Well you know.
I’ve installed the Rythmik amp in the enclosure the cabinet maker did for me.
I made it smaller than last time, but with plenty of air holes.
Also, by having the amp box small in height,
the bottom subwoofer as more room in front of it.
The cabinet maker installed the spikes top and bottom.
I could not have done it myself.
No tools and no skill.
The top section that will contain the coaxial driver will be isolated from vibrations from the bottom subwoofer section.
The front panel of the top section that hold the 12” coaxial driver is 2” thick, including also the bottom section.
Next working session will be the installation of all the drivers.
See you later alligators…

Guy 13






















 

   

[Hank]

Looking good there, Guy 13.  Patience is a virtue.  I do a lot of veneer trimming with a special router bit, but also with single edge razor blades - never with a knife (not sharp enough).

[Guy 13]

Looking good there, Guy 13.  Patience is a virtue.  I do a lot of veneer trimming with a special router bit, but also with single edge razor blades - never with a knife (not sharp enough).

Hi Hank and all Audio Circle members.
Well, you are the only Audio Circle members that said my V1 look good.
Patience is something I don't have a lot.
When I said a knife, I wanted to say a retractable blade knife.
You know those commercial yellow knife?
When the blades are brand new, they can do a good job.
Maybe I should follow your advice and go with a razor blade,
but now, it's too late.
More pictures coming.

Guy 13

[Guy 13]

Hi all Audio Circle members.
I was so anxious to get more work done on my V1
that I spent some more time installing the drivers.
Tomorrow I will start the wiring.
Guy 13

[Danny Richie]

Okay Guy, that looks real good.

But I recommend two things.

First, when I built out all the Super-V's with 1.25" thick solid MDF side panels it was not enough. Those servo woofers put so much pressure on the side panels and excited them so much that there was still some resonance going on there. Lining them with No Rez really did the trick. But if width was not an issue I would make them at least 1.5" thick.

So with only 3/4" thick side panels you are doing to shack them pretty hard. You will have a considerable resonance issue to deal with.

So find you some very heavy vinyl floor tiles to line the insides of those panels with. It will help some. You might also want to find a sheet of solid wood with a slightly lighter color contrast to add to the side panels on the outside. This can be cut to look like an accent or decorative piece. But what you really want is to add more weight and mass to those side panels. That will help a lot.

Secondly, if you ever get those speakers where you want them placed and you are happy with the placement, then have someone help you add some floor spikes to the bottom panel instead of those rollers and your bass response will get much tighter, vocals will be more focused, and your imaging size and depth will be deeper and more layered.

[Danny Richie]

Actually, looking at this now with the woofers in place I can see that you increased the width so much and have some much additional space around the lower woofers that you could line the insides with another 3/4" thick MDF layer. That would help quite a bit. Just paint them Black and glue them in. You can even run a few screws from the inside through them into the side panels to hold them in addition to the glue. That would work great.

[Guy 13]

Okay Guy, that looks real good.

But I recommend two things.

First, when I built out all the Super-V's with 1.25" thick solid MDF side panels it was not enough. Those servo woofers put so much pressure on the side panels and excited them so much that there was still some resonance going on there. Lining them with No Rez really did the trick. But if width was not an issue I would make them at least 1.5" thick.

So with only 3/4" thick side panels you are doing to shack them pretty hard. You will have a considerable resonance issue to deal with.

So find you some very heavy vinyl floor tiles to line the insides of those panels with. It will help some. You might also want to find a sheet of solid wood with a slightly lighter color contrast to add to the side panels on the outside. This can be cut to look like an accent or decorative piece. But what you really want is to add more weight and mass to those side panels. That will help a lot.

Secondly, if you ever get those speakers where you want them placed and you are happy with the placement, then have someone help you add some floor spikes to the bottom panel instead of those rollers and your bass response will get much tighter, vocals will be more focused, and your imaging size and depth will be deeper and more layered.

Hi Danny and all Audio Circle members.
I was wondering at what stage of my reconstruction you would start commenting my work.
I am happy that you make (As usual) constructive criticism and useful suggestions.
For your information the side panels are one (01) inch, not 3/4"
however, I could line them up with vinyl floor tiles, but here in Vietnam, it's a rare commodity.
No Rez, of course, but ship them to Vietnam ? Too expensive.
Line the interior with and extra layer of 3/4" of MDF, that's something I can do with the help of the cabinet maker.
The cabinet maker is so busy that might take up to one month and I am so anxious to get those singing.
I will see what is best.
As for the rollers, they will be replaced with (Made in Vietnam) heavy duty spikes,
I will post pictures at the end of the re-construction.
Thanks for your help.
Stay with me and keep the ideas/suggestions coming, I am not finish and I can always modify.
Thanks.

Guy 13   

[Danny Richie]

Sounds good, and again, it does look very nice.

[gregfisk]

Guy13,

I think those look really good, I like the way you did the top section and the color of the wood. If you add wood to the inside of the box's and paint it black like Danny suggested you probably wouldn't notice it much. Keep us posted on your progress.

Greg

[Captainhemo]

Guy13,

I think those look really good, I like the way you did the top section and the color of the wood. If you add wood to the inside of the box's and paint it black like Danny suggested you probably wouldn't notice it much. Keep us posted on your progress.

Greg

+1 .  Looking good Guy.  Keep the phtos coming

[Guy 13]

Okay Guy, that looks real good.

But I recommend two things.

First, when I built out all the Super-V's with 1.25" thick solid MDF side panels it was not enough. Those servo woofers put so much pressure on the side panels and excited them so much that there was still some resonance going on there. Lining them with No Rez really did the trick. But if width was not an issue I would make them at least 1.5" thick.

So with only 3/4" thick side panels you are doing to shack them pretty hard. You will have a considerable resonance issue to deal with.

So find you some very heavy vinyl floor tiles to line the insides of those panels with. It will help some. You might also want to find a sheet of solid wood with a slightly lighter color contrast to add to the side panels on the outside. This can be cut to look like an accent or decorative piece. But what you really want is to add more weight and mass to those side panels. That will help a lot.

Secondly, if you ever get those speakers where you want them placed and you are happy with the placement, then have someone help you add some floor spikes to the bottom panel instead of those rollers and your bass response will get much tighter, vocals will be more focused, and your imaging size and depth will be deeper and more layered.

Hi Danny and all Audio Circle members.
After one full night not sleeping and thinking about it,
I made up my mind regarding your first suggestion.
I will double the thickness around the woofers.
Therefore from 1" to 1-3/4".
I have already checked and I have plenty of room.
My cabinet maker will cut all the boards
and I will glue and screw them.
No additional pictures for now,
I was busy all day with my wife at our showroom.
Tomorrow, I am staying at home,
therefore work will progress a little more,
I will install the second coaxial driver and two more woofers.

Guy 13

[Guy 13]

+1 .  Looking good Guy.  Keep the phtos coming

Hi Captainhemo and all Audio Circle members.
More photos coming in a day or two.
A post without photo(s) is a post...
A post with photo(s) is a super post.

Guy 13

[persisting1]

I really like the look of the decoupled top section 

[Guy 13]

I really like the look of the decoupled top section 

Hi persisting1 and all Audio Circle members.
I wanted to have something different/special.
since I will be keeping those until I die.
The decoupled top section is more for the look than the sonic benefit(s).
I don't think I will be able to tell the sonic difference from my previous construction.
But, that's O.K. with me.

Guy 13 

[Guy 13]

Hi all Audio Circle members.
This morning my wife told me that I had to stay at home and when my wife says something, there are no arguments,
I have to do what she says.
After all, she’s me boss at work… and at home.
I had a few minutes of free time, so, I’ve installed the three drivers of my second enclosure, plus the cross-over of the two enclosures.
I also had to fix the spikes donuts. They were glued by the Vietnamese cabinet maker with something that looks like sticky water…
I’ve redone all of them with hot glue.
Here is what they look like now.
This afternoon or tomorrow, I will order the extra wood to beef up the sides of the enclosures, as per Danny’s recommendations and when Danny recommends something, I do it. Well not all the time, but some time…
More to come.

Guy 13

[Guy 13]

Hi Danny and all Audio Circle members.
This afternoon I did a little more work on my V1.
I've installed the crossover and wire it.
Next step is the thickening of all the walls.
Don't hold your breath to see some pictures
or your face will turn purple.
I have to wait for the cabinet maker and like all the Vietnamese:
Why do something tomorrow, when it can be done next week.
You get the picture ?
When time permit, I might try the V1 w/o the subwoofers,
just to see if I did not make wiring mistakes.
 
Guy 13

[Guy 13]

Hi Danny and all Audio Circle members.
Some time ago you wrote that the coaxial driver from PAudio that you were using for the V1 as been discontinued.
You also wrote that you were looking for an equivalent,
but that’s a long time ago and since that time,
I saw that you were busy with other projects.
I was looking for something equivalent to the PAudio
and found the Radian 5312-16
(Woofer – 8 Ohms + HF – 16 Ohms)
958 USD/pair.
Since the back of the tweeter is closed,
how about if I add in the back of the enclosure a second tweeter
firing at the wall and with reverse polarity connected in parallel.
They would be 16 Ohms divided by two = 8 Ohms.
Of course the second tweeter firing at the wall would be aligned with the coaxial built in tweeter.
Any objection(s) and/or comment(s).
I also had in mind the Eminence coaxial Beta 12CX w/two tweeters.
Of course you would design for me the xover.
That project might come to life when I am back in Canada.

Guy 13
 

[Guy 13]

Hi Danny and all Audio Circle members.
Sorry to read and see about your little accident.
I hope everything will get back to normal as soon as possible.
Please do not forget to comment my post abour Radian coaxial driver.

Guy 13

[Danny Richie]

You know what. That Radian driver does not look too bad.

I might can even mill the back of the tweeter out just like with the P-Audio drivers.

I might just have to give it a shot and see what it will do.