[richandy]

Hi,
I am thinking of replacing the capacitors in my crossover. Does it matter if I replace a 5.6uf 250v with a 5.6uf 400, 600 or 630 (v) capacitor?
Will it cause any ill effects?

Thanks in advance

[avahifi]

Two issues:

First if a capacitor is used at significantly below its voltage rating, as you propose, it may not operate at its rated capacitance.  I would not deviate voltage values as much as you are thinking about.

Second, get yourself a good capacitor meter and make sure that the capacitors for both channels are matched in value.  Would you like both of your speakers to sound the same?  Make sure of that by providing matching capacitor values.

Not matching capacitor values is like installing new tires on your car without having a tire pressure gauge.

Happy new year,

Frank Van Alstine

[richandy]

Two issues:

First if a capacitor is used at significantly below its voltage rating, as you propose, it may not operate at its rated capacitance.  I would not deviate voltage values as much as you are thinking about.

I think you have it all wrong. I want to replace a 5.6uf 250v with a higher voltage unit. i.e., 400v, 600v or 630v.

[WireNut]

 I think Frank is saying you are better off sticking with the original voltage if you can. However I don't see going up in voltage as a problem. If you have the same brand of cap available in different voltages, go with the one that is closest to the original.
Caps in the same brand but with different voltage ratings can sound different.
You won't damage anything by going up in voltage value.

If you have the cash, try Mundorf silver/oil, or Clarity Cap MR series.

Steve

[richandy]

I think Frank is saying you are better off sticking with the original voltage if you can. However I don't see going up in voltage as a problem. If you have the same brand of cap available in different voltages, go with the one that is closest to the original.
Caps in the same brand but with different voltage ratings can sound different.
You won't damage anything by going up in voltage value.

If you have the cash, try Mundorf silver/oil, or Clarity Cap MR series.

Steve

Thanks. I do have Clarity Cap MR in my mod Jolida 502P, and some Mundorf S/O in the JD9. The caps in the crossover are some cheap Chinese brand. The voltage for the MR and S/O are greater than the 250v on the original caps, hence the reason I am seeking some advice.

[Ericus Rex]

I think you have it all wrong. I want to replace a 5.6uf 250v with a higher voltage unit. i.e., 400v, 600v or 630v.

If you install a 600v cap into your 250 volt circuit you would then be using it well under its voltage rating, as Frank has said.  So he got it right, as I read it.

You can find LCR meters relatively cheaply these days.  I got one used for $75.  I think they're as essential as DVMs.

[avahifi]

Capacitors are the value they are, not the value printed on them.

No matter what you are doing playing the magic capacitor game, get a capacitor meter and measure the actual value!

Otherwise you are just back to testing tires without  pressure gauge.

Oh well.

Frank Van Alstine

[rollo]

   Use matched pairs. Keep the voltage the same and try some different types. Caps do sound different. Magic no different yes.



charles

[jtwrace]

I'm sure Ethan Winer will be here soon....

[Steve]

A few thoughts come to mind when it comes to crossover caps.

1) I would measure and match the caps, as others have mentioned. There is a tolerance involved, which by
definition means the caps will probably not measure exactly the same. I suggest within
1% measured, if not 0,5%.

2) I have found that with different voltage ratings the physical size changes, hence thickness
of dielectric, DF changes etc. In my research, the sonics also changes. The point
being that while one voltage rating may not be perfect, another voltage rating may (same
brand cap). The change may or may not be dramatic, and other factors may figure in, such as masking,
a form of distortion. However, I would not be deterred from doing the change Rich.

All the best in your endeavors Rich.

[richandy]

Thanks all,

A few thoughts come to mind when it comes to crossover caps.

1) If back to back Electrolytic or even bypolars are used below their voltage rating, yes the capacitance
will change. However, I know of very few who uses electrolytics.
With films, no sweat.

There is one Electrolytic 100v 10uf, will that matter?

[avahifi]

I certainly would replace that electrolytic with a film capacitor.  Even I am not so stubborn as to approve plain old lytics in speaker crossovers.

Madisound will have plenty of crossover capacitors selections for you.

Frank

[Steve]

Thanks all,
There is one Electrolytic 100v 10uf, will that matter?

It will change the sonics some, a smearing, dulling of the music, instruments.
Think how of a thin sheet spread over a piano would affect its sound.

Cheers.

[richandy]

It seems like I will completely redo the X-Over. What are your opinions on metal Oxide resistors in X-Overs. I like to use a wire wound.

[WireNut]

Standard wire-wound cement types are neutral but dull, they sound a bit closed in.
Metal-oxide (MOX) are brighter and have more detail. They are a bit edgy if your system is already on the bright side.
Carbon Film like the MOX they have more detail than the cement types and are smoother than MOX.
Mundorf M-Resist Supreme very open, neutral, good dynamics, smooth and open.
Duelund Silver Graphite resistors on the same high level as the Mundorf's but with added natural harmonic overtones and a little more air in the top end.
Caddock MP-930 clean, detailed and smooth. Neutral tonal balance but not as spatious as the Mundorf or Duelund.

[jimtranr]

I agree with Frank Van Alstine on checking the capacitance of whatever new caps you go with, but I heard no ill effects or frequency response anomalies--instead, there was considerable improvement in both openness and transient response--when I replaced the stock capacitors in a Magnepan 1.6QR crossover with Clarity caps of the same rated capacitance but much higher rated working voltage than the stock caps. Cited not as definitive evidence, but simply as an example of where going that route worked.   

[richandy]

Standard wire-wound cement types are neutral but dull, they sound a bit closed in.
Metal-oxide (MOX) are brighter and have more detail. They are a bit edgy if your system is already on the bright side.
Carbon Film like the MOX they have more detail than the cement types and are smoother than MOX.
Mundorf M-Resist Supreme very open, neutral, good dynamics, smooth and open.
Duelund Silver Graphite resistors on the same high level as the Mundorf's but with added natural harmonic overtones and a little more air in the top end.
Caddock MP-930 clean, detailed and smooth. Neutral tonal balance but not as spatious as the Mundorf or Duelund.

Thanks Wireniut, great info. I will look at the Mundorf, as I am thinking of going all Mundorfs.

[richandy]

Does it matter if I used teflon, cotton or PVC jacket hook up wires? Copper or Silver?  I also plan to change all the internal wiring.

[WireNut]

Does it matter if I used teflon, cotton or PVC jacket hook up wires? Copper or Silver?  I also plan to change all the internal wiring.

Wiring can be a big debate. All the above are good options. I personally like copper/Teflon whenever possible. Copper/PVC is a good option for internal wiring due to cheaper cost. If using solid core wire and PVC, stiffness is something to consider. I haven’t tried cotton at this time. Keep it simple. Spend money where it counts most.

[Ethan Winer]

I'm sure Ethan Winer will be here soon....