Show Us Your Core-NCore!

jtwrace · « **on:** 7 May 2012, 01:37 pm »

Let's see your NCore amp builds!

TomS · « **Reply #1 on:** 7 May 2012, 03:03 pm »

Below are the steps for my dual monoblock NCore 400 build - 2 NCore 400 modules and 2 SMPS 600 modules. The cases I used are from www.siliconray.com model RE2207, about $150 for a pair shipped to the US which takes about 3 weeks. They are a perfect fit and very easy to work on.

NCore 400 as supplied with cables and mounting screws.

SMPS600 as supplied with cables and mounting screws.

Rear panel - IEC with integrated rocker switch from Digikey, Neutrik XLR, Cardas Patented Binding Posts (CPBP).
I ground through the anodizing for 1 IEC mounting hole and 1 XLR mounting hole for proper case grounding.
Star tooth locking washers were used beneath to get a good grip.
The only wiring to be done is for the AC connections (2), XLR (3), and binding posts (2).
I later added a SPST mini-toggle for the nAMPON in between the XLR and CPBP's.

Layout for the bottom pan.
Use tight twist on the SMPS to NCore cable and others.
Keep them away from each other.
The NCore mounts with 3 countersunk M3 screws directly to the pan, the SMPS mounts on 4 supplied standoffs. One is metal, the other 3 are insulated.
I also tapped 4 holes in the bottoms of the SiliconRay cases for the 4 supplied rubber feet just for convenience.

Final test with inputs and outputs not connected.
Relays click and LED's should light (regardless of nAMPON signal).
Measure and adjust the input and output offsets as needed,
using Hypex instructions.

Final resting place on top of an 18"x12"x3" maple block on my external Geddes Abbey 12 crossovers.

Rear panel view shown with nAMPON switch added.
Very convenient for just muting the amps as the rocker switch on the IEC is partially covered by the AC plug.
All cabling is DH Labs, with a short 3' speaker run to my XO's beneath.

Have fun building and happy listening!

Tom

saisunil · « **Reply #2 on:** 7 May 2012, 04:17 pm »

Very nice thank you

roscoeiii · « **Reply #3 on:** 7 May 2012, 05:18 pm »

Great looking cases Tom. They look as good here as they did in person.

For the rear of those cases, what did you use to cutout the holes for speaker connectors and inputs? Was the IEC hole big enough for the IEC with a switch built in that you used?

TomS · « **Reply #4 on:** 7 May 2012, 05:42 pm »

Quote from: roscoeiii on 7 May 2012, 05:18 pm

Great looking cases Tom. They look as good here as they did in person.

For the rear of those cases, what did you use to cutout the holes for speaker connectors and inputs? Was the IEC hole big enough for the IEC with a switch built in that you used?

Yes, they already cut a "tall" version of the IEC opening so the switched IEC from Digikey (CCM1904-ND) fit right in.

For the speaker connector, it depends on the brand for hole sizes and spacing (typically 1/2"). The Cardas actually has a really weird 3 hole arrangement that is a pain to align. For any work like this a step drill bit is your friend along with slow speed, preferably with a drill press. The XLR has a mostly round hole, but there are some nubs you have to deal with. I just use a Dremel and a small file to do those cleanly after the step bit. It took just a few minutes on the bench.

roscoeiii · « **Reply #5 on:** 7 May 2012, 05:49 pm »

Thanks. All my drilling and cutting experience is on wood not metal, so good to know this wasn't too tough to do.

Best,

Roscoe

mr_bill · « **Reply #6 on:** 7 May 2012, 05:52 pm »

Is it the RE 2207 or the RE 2207L case that you used? They are very nice.

jtwrace · « **Reply #7 on:** 7 May 2012, 06:08 pm »

Quote from: roscoeiii on 7 May 2012, 05:49 pm

Thanks. All my drilling and cutting experience is on wood not metal, so good to know this wasn't too tough to do.

Best,

Roscoe

Easy. Keep some lubricant on it and go slow. You will have no issues.

Clamp down that piece of metal so you don't loose a finger if the bit happens to grab going through.

Or
Put in CNC vise and press green button.

TomS · « **Reply #8 on:** 7 May 2012, 06:08 pm »

It's the RE2207. The RE2207L version is a deeper case.

http://www.siliconray.com/mechanical/enclosures/re2207-215x70x228-aluminum-enclosure.html

roscoeiii · « **Reply #9 on:** 7 May 2012, 06:10 pm »

Quote from: jtwrace on 7 May 2012, 06:08 pm

Or
Put in CNC vise and press green button.

Hmmm, now where did I put my CNC?

mgalusha · « **Reply #10 on:** 8 May 2012, 09:59 pm »

Quote from: TomS on 7 May 2012, 05:42 pm

The XLR has a mostly round hole, but there are some nubs you have to deal with. I just use a Dremel and a small file to do those cleanly after the step bit. It took just a few minutes on the bench.

An alternative is to just cut a 24mm round hole, which is what I do. This allows the jack to be mounted from either side.

Regnad · « **Reply #11 on:** 12 May 2012, 04:13 pm »

Hi folks, just completed a couple of NC400 mono amps and thought I would share...

Quite a difference in amp technology! Summer amps (19 watts vs 390 watts)

Take care!

roscoeiii · « **Reply #12 on:** 12 May 2012, 04:24 pm »

Wow. Very nice looking cases. Where did you get them?

kevinh · « **Reply #13 on:** 12 May 2012, 04:30 pm »

Nice work.

How did you do the real panel ?

I also notice no on of switch. IS this due to low power requirements?

Regnad · « **Reply #14 on:** 13 May 2012, 05:07 pm »

Thanks.

The cases are from SiliconRay via a diyAudio group buy.

Panels are 8mm thick!! Beat-up drill press, hand jig-saw and hard work! There is no switch because I made as few holes as possible. No power LED. Also, switches with a long-enough shaft are not common.

mhconley · « **Reply #15 on:** 14 May 2012, 11:26 am »

Just a piece of information for those building amps with these modules. I used Galaxy Maggiorato cases when I built my ICEpower monoblocks. I sent the front and rear panels to Front Panel Express after using their excellent Front Panel Designer software. The rears were machined for and IEC inlet w/switch, binding posts and an XLR input and the front for a 5mm LED. I thought the prices were reasonable and they did a waaaay better job than I could have.

Martin

James Romeyn · « **Reply #16 on:** 16 May 2012, 04:58 am »

TomS or anyone who knows: My three kits arrived today and I'll read the manual tomorrow. I'd like a "mute" switch. Please comment on TomS' "nAMPON...mute" rear panel toggle switch. Is it just a SPST shorting the unbalanced input or...?

TomS · « **Reply #17 on:** 16 May 2012, 12:19 pm »

Quote from: James Romeyn on 16 May 2012, 04:58 am

TomS or anyone who knows: My three kits arrived today and I'll read the manual tomorrow. I'd like a "mute" switch. Please comment on TomS' "nAMPON...mute" rear panel toggle switch. Is it just a SPST shorting the unbalanced input or...?

No, normally the nAMPON would be tied to ground to enable the amp. "n" stands for negative or low signal, meaning when that line is brought low (grounded) the amp is on. Take the nAMPON wire (black) from the 4 pin input harness, tie it to one side of SPST switch with the other side of the switch to ground and you're golden.

ryno · « **Reply #18 on:** 16 May 2012, 02:43 pm »

Can you use a 12v trigger from a preamp to turn on the amps through the nAMPON cable?
Ryan

TomS · « **Reply #19 on:** 16 May 2012, 03:07 pm »

Quote from: ryno on 16 May 2012, 02:43 pm

Can you use a 12v trigger from a preamp to turn on the amps through the nAMPON cable?
Ryan

Yes, but you'd need to build and power a small trigger circuit inside the NCore. That circuit would then drive the nAMPON line low to turn the amp on.