[jrocks29ms@gmail.com]

Does the open baffle tweeter design of nx studio allow for it to play so close to your listening position?
I have my speakers about 2 feet from the wall, but I am kind of in a near field listening position as well but I find that more distance from my listening position allows the soundstage and imaging to improve a lot from day an extra half a foot further away. I can’t see how you could have a soundstage from only 5 feet away.

[jrocks29ms@gmail.com]

1

[Hobbsmeerkat]

It's design is to allow for it to be able to play close to a wall unlike most traditional OB speakers. That said, they will definitely reward you the more room they have to breathe.

Mine are about 6 feet apart, 3 feet from the front wall, and I sit near field within 5 feet, with about 3 feet behind me and they're killer with soundstage & imaging.
They will only get better once I start setting up some decent room treatment, cuz they're definitely something special, especially when used in in Danny's system.

[nlitworld]

I wish my room allowed for more space, but being as it's the small spare bedroom (10.25' deep and 12.25' wide) it is what I have to work with. Believe me, I have played with all sorts of positioning and they produce a phenomenal image. They have zero problem panning left to right with pinpoint accuracy, front to back, outside the speakers even. I should note that I have them set in an equilateral triangle with the gaps about 5.5' and a good amount of toe in but not pointed right at my nose. If I rotate them another 10° either way I lose the imaging, but I found a good happy medium. The best positioning on these is not too far from where I placed my Klipsch RP5000F when I had them, but the Studios have a much easier frequency response and image so much better than I have a lot more placement flexibility. Like Hobbs, I will be slowly working on adding more room treatments as time allows.

[jrocks29ms@gmail.com]

Hobbs have you had a chance to upgrade your klipsch rp-600m 2?
It’s worth noting one of the most significant upgrades I did to the version one models were using non-hardening modeling clay on the mid-bass driver, and plastic surround in the back of the tweeter.




 

[Hobbsmeerkat]

Not yet. We're still busy with filling backorders, and we've still got some other speakers that we need to focus on first.
Namely maggie 3.7i, Klipsch RF7-III & RC64-III at a minimum.

I do plan to do something similar using butyl based product similar to Dynamat. Not sure about the inner horn frame, but ill likely do at least the woofer baskets.

[jrocks29ms@gmail.com]

It’s hard to say how damponing the horn frame effects the end result.  I did it along with all the other upgrades at the same time. It definitely didn’t hurt the sound and made things like trumpets and and saxophones sound less hollow and exaggerated. But again this was the overall result.
If you tap the tweeter horn frame with your nail or a screwdriver, it’s obvious it rings like crazy. The clay was a massive improvement to that. When I ran audessey setup on my system with the premium version and mic, It indicated about  a 2 db dip in 6-8 khz range of my speaker. These were preliminary measurements just to dial in distances, the measurements are pre burn in of some gear and cables, and should be taken with a grain of salt. I plan to post measurements of my fr response after I get about 200 hours on my system.

[mkrawcz]

You can feel a lot of vibrations with vocals when putting your hand on the horn while the speaker is playing. I am going to be upgrading the pair I just got soon. I bought some stuff called “boom mat” from Autozone which is basically the same thing as Dynamat. I plan on using it on the back of the horn and the woofer frame.
 

[mkrawcz]

So here is what I ended up with using “Boom Mat”. Does it make a difference? I don’t know, probably. It certainly reduced the ringing when tapping on them.

[Danny Richie]

mkrawca, that looks pretty good.

[mkrawcz]

Got these things up and running today. They do sound a lot better than stock. Not sure they beat the XLS Encores. I think the Sony CS5s upgraded are better in terms of spatial detail and soundstage. But the Klipsch have a lot more output capability and bass extension.

[jrocks29ms@gmail.com]

mkrawcz-
Parts matter, my version one crossover did not much for me, even less when it had little to no play time on it.

Put mills resisters, Miflex copper foil bypass cap on the tweeter circuit, and a sonicap bypass cap on the mid-woofer.
The difference was I could now really sit and listen to music for a while, not just notice there were some moments that sounded good here and there. I can really peer into music since the mark 2 crossover I built.
It dramatically changed the ways the highs are presented; smoother, warmer, perhaps softer, more balanced, but present in the room rather than coming from the horn. I also agrassively used small no- rez strips to silence the cabinet.
Good stands really help these things.
How’s your surface or stands? Super sturdy?
What other kind of gear are you using with your klipschs?

[mkrawcz]

mkrawcz-
Parts matter, my version one crossover did not much for me, even less when it had little to no play time on it.
Good stands really help these things.
How’s your surface or stands? Super sturdy?
What other kind of gear are you using with your klipschs?

Oh, trust me I know, all I do in this hobby is play around with parts in the speakers and amps that I build. I actually added some broken in Duelund silver bypass caps to the tweeter circuit today and it made a big difference. The speakers sound good for what they are. They don't disappear like most of my other speakers and that's due to the horn design which is ok. They are a fun speaker to rock out on and they look great. For stands, I use Pangea heavy duty stands filled with sand. I tried a lot of my gear through these from PS Audio BHK300 monos/preamp, Elekit tu8600s, Neurochrome amps, Folsom 7293, GR Research GK10, Aiyima A07(modded), SMSL SA400, etc. They really seem to come to life with good class D amps actually.

[techiefun]

Finally getting around to give feedback on my assembly of the modifications of the RP-600M's.  I included the included mods from Danny's kit and then added dynamat to the speaker assemblies and the horn port.  Only other mod was adding a Jantzen cap in the woofer path.  My assembly isn't pretty, but it works and sounds sooooo much better than the OGs.  Also added the tube connectors and replaced the standard style ones in series.  Before, I finished both - it A/B'd the unmodified vs the modified and there was a huge difference.  The modified no longer 'screamed' at me - aka way too in your face.  Although, the modifications brought the 'in your face' part back in the stage; it was still very present.  Otherwise clarity of the music was improved across the range.  I used the Decware Zen Anniversary amp in addition to a Elekit 8600 as integrated amps. 

[wje]

Got these things up and running today. They do sound a lot better than stock. Not sure they beat the XLS Encores. I think the Sony CS5s upgraded are better in terms of spatial detail and soundstage. But the Klipsch have a lot more output capability and bass extension.

I was looking at your images posted of your crossovers and noticed the red wire attached to the leg between the capacitor and resistor.  Instead of red, I used the white wire on this leg as it would correctly reflect the negative tweeter wire and utilized a red wire connected to the leg between the inductor and resistor for the positive tweeter connection.  If you installed the crossovers and ran the red wires to all the positive connections and the white wires to the negatives, the tweeter would be wired incorrectly.  Then again, it would be simple enough to place the red tweeter wire on the negative tab and the white tweeter wire on the positive tab for correct connectivity.  I was just pointing this out in the event others who are building GR Research's RP600M crossovers don't get confused when looking at your image of the crossover.

[mkrawcz]

I was looking at your images posted of your crossovers and noticed the red wire attached to the leg between the capacitor and resistor.  Instead of red, I used the white wire on this leg as it would correctly reflect the negative tweeter wire and utilized a red wire connected to the leg between the inductor and resistor for the positive tweeter connection.  If you installed the crossovers and ran the red wires to all the positive connections and the white wires to the negatives, the tweeter would be wired incorrectly.  Then again, it would be simple enough to place the red tweeter wire on the negative tab and the white tweeter wire on the positive tab for correct connectivity.  I was just pointing this out in the event others who are building GR Research's RP600M crossovers don't get confused when looking at your image of the crossover.

You generally always wire Red and White from input to output. The polarity is just reversed on the tweeter, so you just connect the red to the negative terminal on the tweeter. and the white to the positive as per the schematic.

[Danny Richie]

I was looking at your images posted of your crossovers and noticed the red wire attached to the leg between the capacitor and resistor.  Instead of red, I used the white wire on this leg as it would correctly reflect the negative tweeter wire and utilized a red wire connected to the leg between the inductor and resistor for the positive tweeter connection.  If you installed the crossovers and ran the red wires to all the positive connections and the white wires to the negatives, the tweeter would be wired incorrectly.  Then again, it would be simple enough to place the red tweeter wire on the negative tab and the white tweeter wire on the positive tab for correct connectivity.  I was just pointing this out in the event others who are building GR Research's RP600M crossovers don't get confused when looking at your image of the crossover.

Either way works.