For the finish, I just did flat black paint to minimize possible light reflections.
An external crossover box would be the best approach for a couple of reasons. First if you mounted the crossover internally, you'd be laying it over no-rez which would compress it and perhaps diminish its effectiveness. Second the front to back slope of this speaker is steep, so you'd want to securely mount it to the cabinet, either with screws or with velcro.
If you go with an external crossover, I think you'd need extra sets of tube connectors for a quick disconnect mechanism ... so it would look like a tri-amped speaker in a sense.
I of course broke all those rules, and am basically laying the crossover flat inside the speaker directly behind the tweeter and mid bass drivers. I don't want to give anyone bad ideas, so I won't be including a picture of the rear. LOL. I suppose I will eventually right this wrong and go with the tri-amp approach with external crossover.
For the electronic crossover in the processor, I think I've tried it between 60hz and 70hz. I'm not much of A-B comparison guy, so I probably won't try it full range.
Great work, nice to see someone took the plunge! I plan on building one soon. I’ve found that some DTS-MA 5.1 tracks don’t like 4.2.4 and it bugs me to no end not having a matching center. Would you mind a picture or two from the rear? (Not tiktok related
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I’m debating on which finish to use - will probably keep it all in house and make it something without reflection like Duratex since it sits below and in front of the TV. I’m curious what you did for the crossover (where does it go?) I think I may want to do an external crossover for this one. Lastly, are you letting your AVR set the crossover point, or are you running it full range? Have you tried it both ways?