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Stenho,Glad to hear it was the L-Pad as I thought. I have seen this quite often, and learned the lesson 1st hand myself with my first pair of RM-40."1812 Overture Cannons" at high volume was the issue with mine.The L-Pad being a resistance device heats up, and if sustained High Power is applied they will burn.Sometimes they can even burn the cabinet.In any event, I would change them out on BOTH speakers, as the burned windings will reduce sound quality.Brian bought them from Parts Express often, and they are very inexpensive. Best plan is to see if you can get the part number from yours, and take a picture on your phone to sent to Parts Express. Remember, they have been "hot glued" into position, so be VERY CAREFUL to slowly pry them lose. Take your time, or you may damage the cabinet. When you Glue the new L-PAD in place, take GREAT CARE to position it so that 12:00 is at the top.Also be very careful to mark the wires and what each was soldered to. Again, a phone photo can be helpful.Also as a resistance device, the more "wide open" you run them, the lower the resistance and heat created. I always ran mine hot (like 1:00 or 2:00) Brian generally ran lower than that, but seldom blasted.
Hey John S.,We had a couple long talks 4-5 years ago. I still have my pair of RM40 BCSE with the MLS cabinets. My bottom plate of the speakers had the 3" side MDF supports glued into it. There was no removing the bottom plate on mine. Just thought you should know as it could also be true of yours.Good luck,Bob
Thanks for the notes, John. As soon as I read your note I changed the midrange L-pads from 10:30 to 1:00 o'clock and the trebles from 9:30 to 11.I hate being on borrowed time but the RM-40's really are quite a musical speaker. All your points are duly noted and I will move forward toward a sufficient replacement for the midrange L-pads. Thanks for taking your time with me.Warm regards,
Stehno, Really glad there working. There really not that difficult to tilt down on there side, and they out weight me by 65lbs. I think bases are actually two pieces, but you have to remove the 4 large Phillip screws (approx. 4”) first. That removes the base from speaker. Then you can remove 8 screws (1.5 -2 “) that hold the bottom to the side of the base. Good luck Zak
John, while I have your attention, I'd like to ask a few unrelated questions if I may based on the label above.1. At the very top of the label it looks like Brian is listing the RM-40 model as 8 ohm whereas I always thought these were 4 ohm. Can you confirm?2. I used to bi-wire these speakers but no longer. My speaker cable runs are routed from the amp to the lower terminals (mid/treble) and the jumpers carry the signal to the upper (bass) terminals. From a sonics or overall best musicality potential would you consider this the proper config?Thanks,
Thanks Js. I don't see how I can fit the new 15" passive radiator thru the bottom slot as its 4.75" tall and the slot is around 3". Does the bottom of the enclosure come off?
