AudioCircle
Industry Circles => GR Research => Topic started by: Outofthewoods on 5 Dec 2014, 05:15 am
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Designed to be simple, hassle free and nice to look at. Just glue it up and paint it!
All parts cut from premium 1.25" dual-refined MDF.
Pilot holes for driver screw locations.
Baffles and rear braces are drilled for wire runs.
Bottoms are drilled for spike inserts. (Danny carries the spikes)
1/2" round-over all around.
All parts labeled for easy foolproof assembly.
29"H with a footprint of 18"W x 16"D
Includes (44) 3/8" x 1.50" wood dowels, (4) 18" ratchet bar clamps, (2) ratchet straps, (1) 8 oz. bottle of Titebond wood glue and (1) sheet of 220 sand paper.
$700 pair, plus shipping.
Any questions?
Thanks,
Ruben
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/IMG_3375_zps7803cf7c.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/IMG_3375_zps7803cf7c.jpg.html)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/IMG_3365_zps044da4b8.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/IMG_3365_zps044da4b8.jpg.html)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/IMG_3366_zps3297aee1.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/IMG_3366_zps3297aee1.jpg.html)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/IMG_3367_zps918762dc.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/IMG_3367_zps918762dc.jpg.html)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/IMG_3368_zps7b947a3d.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/IMG_3368_zps7b947a3d.jpg.html)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/IMG_3364_zpsc3b7d0bd.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/IMG_3364_zpsc3b7d0bd.jpg.html)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/IMG_3369_zps1fc02e4a.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/IMG_3369_zps1fc02e4a.jpg.html)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/IMG_3370_zps0f460317.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/IMG_3370_zps0f460317.jpg.html)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/IMG_3371_zpsdcc80e7e.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/IMG_3371_zpsdcc80e7e.jpg.html)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/IMG_3363_zps49018739.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/IMG_3363_zps49018739.jpg.html)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/IMG_3356_zpsa12a7554.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/IMG_3356_zpsa12a7554.jpg.html)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/IMG_3372_zpseb376656.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/IMG_3372_zpseb376656.jpg.html)
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Nice Ruben :thumb:
Should be a popular pack
-jay
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O...M...G... :drool: Those look amazing. :thumb:
If I had a room to put those in, I wouldn't hesitate.
Is that what all your flatpacks are like? How much wait time for a one-off special order?
Michael
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Looks like a great kit Ruben! :thumb:
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This is a good idea Ruben, you're right anyone should be able to put these together, and they look great to boot :thumb:
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Can't wait to get my set :thumb:
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Those look great! :thumb:
It looks like you forgot the roundover on the woofer holes.
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O...M...G... :drool: Those look amazing. :thumb:
If I had a room to put those in, I wouldn't hesitate.
Is that what all your flatpacks are like? How much wait time for a one-off special order?
Michael
Hi Michael,
Shoot me a PM with what you have in mind. I'm sure I can make it very easy to assemble.
Thanks,
Ruben
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Those look great! :thumb:
It looks like you forgot the roundover on the woofer holes.
Hey Rob,
Nope, didn't forget 'em. They aren't necessary.
I asked about the round-overs while building the Super 7's and Danny said they were not needed.
However, it's no problem to add the round-overs if requested.
Thanks for bringing it up.
Ruben
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Very nice! :D
I'm new to OB bass and have a few questions:
What size are the drivers?
Where can I get the drivers?
What amp to use?
My room is 11'w x 15'l x 8'h will a pair work in my room or is a bigger space needed?
How low will they go?
Chris
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Hi Rodge,
What size are the drivers?
12" This link will take you to the product page. http://gr-research.com/sw-12-16fr.aspx
I will also be offering a similar flat pack for the 8" version of the same driver. http://gr-research.com/sw-12-08-1.aspx
What amp to use?
http://gr-research.com/a370peq.aspx
My room is 11'w x 15'l x 8'h will a pair work in my room or is a bigger space needed?
I'll let Danny chime in on this one as he can explain why OB subs perform great in smaller spaces.
Thanks!
Ruben
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Very nice! :D
I'm new to OB bass and have a few questions:
What size are the drivers?
Where can I get the drivers?
What amp to use?
My room is 11'w x 15'l x 8'h will a pair work in my room or is a bigger space needed?
How low will they go?
Chris
Hey Chris,
I can help yo with a few of those questions
What size are the drivers?
Where can I get the drivers?
What amp to use?
The drivers are 12" and you can get them herehttp://gr-research.com/sw-12-16fr.aspx
Danny also has an 8 ohm version which I believe is now available that will give you more outut.
Yu can get the amp here:
http://gr-research.com/a370peq.aspx
My room is 11'w x 15'l x 8'h will a pair work in my room or is a bigger space needed?
How low will they go?
They'll work great in your room. My room is just slightly bigger at 12.5x18.5 and I have been using a single H-Frame (2 12's) for a few months and am just finishing off the 2nd H-frame. I have no complaints about the single H-frame on it's own, it is wonderful. Clean, tight, and very detailed, never heard bass like it before :) The plan has always been to have the pair and work each one less . No lack of output though
The servo controlled OB 12's will play flat to 20hz and -3 db in the mid teens I beleive.
HTH
-jay
Ooops, Ruben beatme to it !!
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They'll work great in your room. My room is just slightly bigger at 12.5x18.5 and I have been using a single H-Frame (2 12's) for a few months and am just finishing off the 2nd H-frame. I have no complaints about the single H-frame on it's own, it is wonderful. Clean, tight, and very detailed, never heard bass like it before :) The plan has always been to have the pair and work each one less . No lack of output though
Please post your results once you have both pairs running.
I have a single W-frame (two 12's) and I'm very interested in reading about your experience with two of them, especially at moderate listening levels. My room size is nearly identical to yours.
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The 2 questions that come to mind are...
1. How much to spray a coat of paint on the pieces before shipping?
2. Does a pair of amp boxes come along with the flatpack?
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Ruben,
How many 8" servo drivers will be in the next flat pack kit?
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Please post your results once you have both pairs running.
I have a single W-frame (two 12's) and I'm very interested in reading about your experience with two of them, especially at moderate listening levels. My room size is nearly identical to yours.
I'll update my build thread wehn I've go tthem both up and running <-- hopefully that will be tomorrow 8)
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=127533.0
-jay
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Do you need one amp per woofer or one per h-frame? Also, the 700/pair is it for 2 h-frame (as shown in the last picture)?
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Ruben,
How many 8" servo drivers will be in the next flat pack kit?
Hey Rich,
They will come in 2 and 3 woofer configurations.
Ruben
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The 2 questions that come to mind are...
1. How much to spray a coat of paint on the pieces before shipping?
2. Does a pair of amp boxes come along with the flatpack?
Just shipping raw MDF.
Amp box flat packs are not included, but I can include a pair for an additional $50.
Thanks,
Ruben
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Hi Ruben,
Ok put me in for a pair of the 3-8" driver kits when they are ready! :D
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Do you need one amp per woofer or one per h-frame?
1 amp per H frame. (2 woofers)
Also, the 700/pair is it for 2 h-frame (as shown in the last picture)?
Yes. $700 for 2 complete H frame flat packs.
Thanks,
Ruben
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Hi Ruben,
Ok put me in for a pair of the 3-8" driver kits when they are ready! :D
You got it! :thumb:
Thanks,
Ruben
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Can't wait to get my set :thumb:
They're headed your way. :thumb:
I just PM'ed you the tracking info.
Thanks again!
Ruben
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Ruben,
Both email & PM sent. :)
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Ruben,
Both email & PM sent. :)
Gotcha! :)
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What do these look like when they're finished and where do you put the amp? Is the amp external?
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Yes, the amps are external plate style amps. http://gr-research.com/a370peq.aspx I can provide amp box flat packs as well.
This one is similar and should give you a good idea of how the flat packs will look when finished.
Thanks,
Ruben
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/SatinBlackOBServo1.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/SatinBlackOBServo1.jpg.html)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/SatinBlackOBServo.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/SatinBlackOBServo.jpg.html)
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Very nice.
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Hi Ruben,
Ok put me in for a pair of the 3-8" driver kits when they are ready! :D
Shipping soon. :thumb:
Ruben
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/8inchservosubstands_zps92514268.png) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/8inchservosubstands_zps92514268.png.html)
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Ruben,
Excellent! :thumb:
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Way to go Rueben. Your excellent work will entice many more to make the plunge. Got me thinking now.
charles
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How tall are those?
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Mount a wedgie on top of that (maybe on a post that rotates) and you'd have something special.
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How tall are those?
I was wonderin gthe same thing, I'm guess it must be very clsoe to the height of a dual 12", possibly a shade taller depending on base/top thickness. My guess is based on a ('x9" cavity for the 8" wooders and 3/4" for the 2 braces. but maybe it's a little less ? Even if the driver cavities were 3.5x3.5 you'd still have 27" before to/bottom plates
How close is that Ruben ?
-jay
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:D holy moly ,,,, nice ,,very nice. just the other day I brought my MAG 3.6's in the man cave to re-test. lacked punch. of course. but mids were great.
I then brought in 1 of my Super-V's to back up.... just using the bottom end ,,,, well my goodness ,, I an pretty dam happy you might say .. holy moly once more !!!!!
will move in the other V and try multiple subs with the Maggies,,,, :D this is some good bass,,
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:D Super V's are 28" to top of bass structure ..... your right .. :D
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Just to chime in on the "will OB bass work in a small room" question. I used to have a very small room such as your room (it was a "study" and was smaller than a small bedroom). OB bass is perfect because it doesn't load the room in the same way a sealed/ported subs do. Make sure they are treated as "directional" though...they should face you the same way your main speakers face you. Here is a detailed explanation:
http://www.linkwitzlab.com/rooms.htm (http://www.linkwitzlab.com/rooms.htm)
Not only is its bass output in proportion to the music, because room resonance contribution is greatly reduced, but also the character of the bass now sounds more like that from real musical instruments. My hypothesis is that three effects combine to produce the greater bass clarity:
1 - An open baffle, dipole speaker has a figure-of-eight radiation pattern and therefore excites fewer room modes.
2 - Its total radiated power is 4.8 dB less than that of a monopole for the same on-axis SPL. Thus the strength of the excited modes is less.
3 - A 4.8 dB difference in SPL at low frequencies is quite significant, due to the bunching of the equal loudness contours at low frequencies, and corresponds to a 10 dB difference in loudness at 1 kHz.
Thus, bass reproduced by a dipole would be less masked by the room, since a dipole excites fewer modes, and to a lesser degree, and since the perceived difference between direct sound and room contribution is magnified by a psychoacoustic effect.
The off-axis radiation behavior of a speaker determines the degree to which speaker placement and room acoustics degrade the accuracy of the perceived sound.
This means they should be great for a small room, all else the same...
John
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:D thanks for that info John,,,, pointed at the listener like a reg speaker was unknown to me.... will try..
typical dual Has one sub point back and one front,, so if you want full sound,, both should point front ???? :D
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We may be saying different things. Just orient them front/back, not side/side so they face you rather than the side wall is all I was meaning.
The idea about front/back facing driver placement still applies so they would be push-pull. Since they are open back, they still move air out the back of the driver. The question is to decide if you want them all moving forward at the same time or one moving forward while the other moves backward. This is typical with a double H-Frame. With three, that is odd (literally)...
http://www.hifizine.com/2012/12/subwoofer-origami/
I also wanted to say these kits look really nice. I suspect they are outstanding...
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:D thanks for that info John,,,, pointed at the listener like a reg speaker was unknown to me.... will try..
typical dual Has one sub point back and one front,, so if you want full sound,, both should point front ???? :D
You can mount both drivers facing the same direction if you wish, wired identically. Or you can mount one facing forward and the other to the rear, wired in opposite polarity. Either way, both drivers move in the same direction (towards or away from you; if mounted in opposite directions one from the front of it's cone, the other from it's rear) to the same signal. What you DON'T want to do is mount them in opposite directions wired identically---the output of the pair (180 degrees apart) would then cancel out each other. +1 and -1 = 0.
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:D. I love these new flat packs .... I just wanted to know if bass was directional which I don't think it is. If I bought 2 of these can you place them any-how and any-where in the room. Multi subs is the way to go. This is know. But the drivers don't need to stare you straight on like a regular speaker ,, right ? This was my quarry .. I think you can play with payments too , right ,, to get your room right ?
Anyway ,,,, this OB bass is KILLER !!!! I was going to sell my Mags ,, but I think I will use the OB servo bass with them and enjoy best of both worlds ,,,, :D
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:D. I love these new flat packs .... I just wanted to know if bass was directional which I don't think it is. If I bought 2 of these can you place them any-how and any-where in the room. Multi subs is the way to go. This is know. But the drivers don't need to stare you straight on like a regular speaker ,, right ? This was my quarry .. I think you can play with payments too , right ,, to get your room right ?
Anyway ,,,, this OB bass is KILLER !!!! I was going to sell my Mags ,, but I think I will use the OB servo bass with them and enjoy best of both worlds ,,,, :D
They are directional, and they have nulls to the side, so they excite the room modes less than a box sub. With OB you don't want or need a "swarm" approach. With box subs a swarm approach works well, but I personally still prefer the sound of OB bass.
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Another point, you should keep the open back at least 3' off the front wall. But like Tyson says, there are nulls to the sides so they can be placed very clsoe to a side wall
I believe you also asked about the difference between the 8's and 12's earlier. I believe the 12's are gong to play with moe authority down low,, probably signifigantly more below 30Hz. I haven't heard the 8's so I can't comment from experience just from what I've read
-jay
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:D ahhhh, ok,, 12's it is.. it's what i'm playing now and with great results. and you say with ob ,, a swarm is not needed.
interesting. now all i need to do is sell the V's or chop the heads off. but if only 1 sub is all thats needed,,
it might be better to leave them be,, and build a single one of these great flat packs,,,, hummmm, thanks guys .. :D
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:D. I love these new flat packs .... I just wanted to know if bass was directional which I don't think it is. If I bought 2 of these can you place them any-how and any-where in the room. Multi subs is the way to go. This is know. But the drivers don't need to stare you straight on like a regular speaker ,, right ? This was my quarry .. I think you can play with payments too , right ,, to get your room right ?
Anyway ,,,, this OB bass is KILLER !!!! I was going to sell my Mags ,, but I think I will use the OB servo bass with them and enjoy best of both worlds ,,,, :D
The frequency at which you cross-over to your main speakers matters too. If it is above about 80Hz (not much higher---maybe 100Hz), you need a sub for each channel because the ear can locate frequencies higher than that. And yes, an OB sub's direction DOES matter---it absolutely MUST face you. The output from the front and back cancel each other on both sides of the OB frame, creating a "null" on each side of the OB frame. If you face a side towards you, you will be in the null of the sub. One of the cool things about OB bass is that the null faces the side wall, so doesn't "load" the room in that dimension.
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:D ahhhh, ok,, 12's it is.. it's what i'm playing now and with great results. and you say with ob ,, a swarm is not needed.
interesting. now all i need to do is sell the V's or chop the heads off. but if only 1 sub is all thats needed,,
it might be better to leave them be,, and build a single one of these great flat packs,,,, hummmm, thanks guys .. :D
I have both the 3x8" and 2x12" (in the Super-V's) servo woofer systems. The 12" does play lower in frequency with more output. I use to have two of the Genesis 12M servo subwoofers which were sealed cabinets. I like the OB sub more in my room.
Another thing to think about is just removing the 12" drivers and amps from the Super-V's and get the new flat packs from Ruben. Makes it a lot cheaper to ship the rest of the Super-V's to a new owner. Then they can get new drivers and amps from Danny.
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:D ok,,,,, i got it now.. thanks all you good AC guys. and that idea HAL ,,,, it's a great idea. as shipping will cost a bit as I'm up north.
but to wreck the good wood work on these V's would be a crime. but to ship them without the amps and 4 big woofs is a better idea
thanks for that good smart thought ,,,, i think that makes perfect sense. thanks again !!!! :D
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I was wonderin gthe same thing, I'm guess it must be very clsoe to the height of a dual 12", possibly a shade taller depending on base/top thickness. My guess is based on a ('x9" cavity for the 8" wooders and 3/4" for the 2 braces. but maybe it's a little less ? Even if the driver cavities were 3.5x3.5 you'd still have 27" before to/bottom plates
How close is that Ruben ?
-jay
Hi Jay,
You're close. They're 32 1/4" before spikes.
I can vary the height if needed.
Ruben
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Hi Jay,
You're close. They're 32 1/4" before spikes.
I can vary the height if needed.
Ruben
For anyone wanting to use the 32-1/4" sub cab as a base for monitor speakers, set the speakers on the sub upside down if that puts the tweeters at around ear level. And put the front of the speaker cab flush with the top panel of the sub, to avoid diffraction effects.
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H Frame flat pack and tools on the way! :D
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How many sheets of MDF is each kit?
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:D Rubin ,,,, do these things even need sides ?? i am wondering if you can even use less material.. just a supported baffle ?? or are the sides a big part of the sound ???? just thinking out loud here ???? ha :D
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They are getting here Friday! :thumb:
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:D i guess that's a question for Danny ,,,,, if your not worried about driver protection as with kids or whatnot ,,,,
will just a supported baffle sound the same or do you need this little box ?? :D
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How many sheets of MDF is each kit?
Approx. (1) sheet of 1.25" ultra refined MDF.
Thanks,
Ruben
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:D Rubin ,,,, do these things even need sides ?? i am wondering if you can even use less material.. just a supported baffle ?? or are the sides a big part of the sound ???? just thinking out loud here ???? ha :D
The side panels are required to keep the woofers from cancelling each other's output (they are wired in opposite polarity) at too high a frequency. The sound from each driver has to travel around the sides until it reaches the wave from the other driver (in a two-woofer sub) to cause cancellation (+1 plus -1 = 0). The shorter the path between drivers, the higher the frequency at which cancellation occurs. If you measure the distance from the middle of the forward-firing woofer to the edge of it's baffle, then along the inside surface of a side panel from the baffle to the front edge of that panel, then the distance from that front edge to the rear edge of the panel (on the outside, of course), around the corner to the inside surface of the back half of that panel, measuring from that back edge to the rear of the baffle, and finally from the intersection of the side panel and rear side of the baffle to the center of the rear-firing woofer, you have the effective size of a much larger baffle. The sum of your measurements times two is the height and width of the simple OB baffle required to equal the H-Frame's bass extension and output. Some OB speaker builders DO use just a big flat baffle (attached to a base), which, if large enough, produces the same output as an H-Frame. The Frame, however, is a much less-resonant structure, the panels (top, bottom, sides, and baffle) all bracing one another. The H-Frame thereby produces higher QUALITY bass than a simple flat-baffle OB woofer design. Danny recommends an H(or W)-Frame for his OB woofers for that very reason!
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Thanks! I was in the middle of a reply when you posted.
The walls of the cavities are in effect an extension of the baffle.
Ruben
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Those are superb! Nice job. :thumb:
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They are getting here Friday! :thumb:
Let me know how it goes Rich. I'm looking in to some different alternatives as I move into my new digs.
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Will do!
Ruben is sending the tool kit to build them as I have 10 left thumbs and no wood working tools. I can probably manage a glue up of the two 3x8" H frames, install the drivers and wire them up.
Have been talking to Skiing Ninja about getting them finished along with the OB baffles. Waiting for warm weather!
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Ruben is sending the tool kit to build them as I have 10 left thumbs and no wood working tools. I can probably manage a glue up of the two 3x8" H frames
You'll be able to knock them out in a few hours. Feel free to give me a call with any questions that may come up.
Thanks,
Ruben
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Ruben,
Thanks! Will do!
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All 102lbs of the two, 3x8" flat pack and tool kit arrived today in fine condition. Made it before the rain set in!
Once the weather gets better, will be unpacking it and see if everything is ok and then start the glue-up.
Six 8" servo woofers wire and connectors are on the way.
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Hi Rich,
All 102lbs of the two, 3x8" flat pack and tool kit arrived today in fine condition. Made it before the rain set in!
Actually, the flat pack alone is 107 lbs! :weights: Ultra refined MDF is very heavy.
Once the weather gets better, will be unpacking it and see if everything is ok and then start the glue-up.
I can assure you that everything is just fine. :D
Six 8" servo woofers wire and connectors are on the way.
:thumb:
Can't wait to see them finished!
Best,
Ruben
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HAL, I don't remember---do you already have a pair of 12" OB Servo woofers in H-Frames (even if as Super-V woofers) to compare the 3-8" version with? If so, you're probably the first (other than Danny) to be able to do so.
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Yes, I have Super-V's with the 12" servo's and the 2x 3-8" servo setups.
The present 2x 3-8" servo setups are in U baffles. Once I get the H Frame built, will be giving it a listen.
The H Frame will be getting the DSP crossover sub feed from a three way setup I am working on. Very different speakers from the Super-V's.
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I will be cutting a pair of 3 x 12" H frame flat packs Thursday, or Friday of this week.
If anyone else would like a pair please let me know asap.
Thanks,
Ruben
This is how they look standard, but can be modified if you'd prefer a different look.
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/8inchservosubstands_zps92514268.png) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/8inchservosubstands_zps92514268.png.html)
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I will be cutting a pair of 3 x 12" H frame flat packs Thursday, or Friday of this week.
If anyone else would like a pair please let me know asap.
Thanks,
Ruben
This is how they look standard, but can be modified if you'd prefer a different look.
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/8inchservosubstands_zps92514268.png) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/8inchservosubstands_zps92514268.png.html)
Did you mean 3 x 8" which is what the picture looks like or are you doing a triple 12" H-frame now too?
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or are you doing a triple 12" H-frame now too?
Yes, Sir!
I was trying to show how the standard 3 x 12" H frame would look by using the 8" version as an example. Same look, just bigger.
Thanks,
Ruben
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Back from travel.
Here are the tools and glue for putting the 3x8" servo OB H-Frame together.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=115332)
Will be unpacking the flat pack soon.
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Back from travel.
Here are the tools and glue for putting the 3x8" servo OB H-Frame together.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=115332)
Will be unpacking the flat pack soon.
Looking forward to your updates Rich. Hope it all goes well and so smoothly that even a neophyte like me can handle it. :green:
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I just figured out how the clamps work! :o
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Don't go too crazy with those clamps, just good and snug.
Learned my lesson when I was laminating some panels and got a little carried away :lol:
Does Ruben include those in the kit ? If so, what a bonus for people who don't have the tools to get started :thumb:
-jay
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-jay,
Yes, they came with my flat packs, along with the glue, sand paper and straps.
When Ruben said it's like putting together IKEA furniture, he gave a great description!
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-jay,
Yes, they came with my flat packs, along with the glue, sand paper and straps.
When Ruben said it's like putting together IKEA furniture, he gave a great description!
:o
:thumb:
-
:o
:thumb:
Agreed, nicely done Ruben :thumb:
-jay
-
Ruben is "Da Man" when it comes to casework. :thumb:
-
Ruben is "Da Man" when it comes to casework. :thumb:
Are y uback ? Recovered from the holiday :lol: :lol:
-jay
-
-jay,
Yes, they came with my flat packs, along with the glue, sand paper and straps.
When Ruben said it's like putting together IKEA furniture, he gave a great description!
OK....... :hyper:
It's time for our weekly update! Any progress?
-
Back from travel and have been so busy with the MS-3 and dspMusik installs, had to hold off with the servo baffle build. :duh:
Will start that next week and get them done. I have been using the U Frames with the 3x8" servo's and they sound really good. Have a few things to do for improvement.
I promise updates soon.
-
Unboxing day! Massive packaging. Everything arrived in fine shape. Will get to unwrapping the cut pieces soon. Then layout all the pieces according to the first part of the thread.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=116006)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=116007)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=116008)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=116009)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=116010)
-
Those look really nicely made and boxed.
-
Looks very good!
Have you decided on a finish yet?
-
Will talk to Skiing Ninja about Ferrari Red!
-
Will talk to Skiing Ninja about Ferrari Red!
Hi HAL,
yes... Ferrari Red !
That's the way to go, well, that's the way I went.
Yes, I know, not exactly the real Ferrari red,
but for me close enough.
Guy 13
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=116018)
-
Guy,
Looks good.
Going to add either cream or black racing stripes to these with the Ferrari Red.
-
Guy,
Looks good.
Going to add either cream or black racing stripes to these with the Ferrari Red.
Hi HAL,
how long we will have to wait to see the Ferrari red ????
Guy 13
-
Guy,
Looks good.
Going to add either cream or black racing stripes to these with the Ferrari Red.
Nah.......prancing Pony and the "Scuderia Ferrari" :green:
-
Depends on weather in Colorado. Probably sometime in the summer.
Until then, basic MDF brown.
-
Nah.......prancing Pony and the "Scuderia Ferrari" :green:
I'm old and just like simple racing stripes on the red. No yellow pony for me.
-
Flat pack parts unpacked. Boxes are for other items being shipped out.
Lots of dowel's for holding it all together.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=116092)
-
Unpacked on OB servo H-Frame to start the gluing process.
Since we are supposed to be snowed and iced in tomorrow, good day to give it a try.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=116124)
-
PM sent.
-
I talked with Ruben last night and his computer has failed :duh: He is very concerned that folks are trying to get a hold of him and can't. He asked me via phone call to post and let everyone know he is buying a new computer today. And he will be in touch with all today as well :thumb:
-
I talked with Ruben last night and his computer has failed :duh: He is very concerned that folks are trying to get a hold of him and can't. He asked me via phone call to post and let everyone know he is buying a new computer today. And he will be in touch with all today as well :thumb:
Thank you for this, I have been trying to get a hold of him for a few days. He's been great at getting back to me so I figured he was out of town.
-
Baffle glue up started:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=116282)
-
Second part of baffle glued. Next will be the sides after this glues sets up.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=116356)
Second baffle glue-up has begun as well. Now for more glue drying time.
-
And I want folks to know that I typically do not do woodworking as I have 10 left thumbs and only a few wood working tools. Ruben sent everything I need to build them with the flat packs. Never have been good at it.
I have assembled IKEA furniture and this is very similar! :thumb:
-
Glue is dried.
Put in the dowel pegs to get ready for side glue up.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=116405)
-
Side panel glued to the baffle. More drying time.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=116406)
-
Looking good so far! (As in, I think even I might be able to do it - so far :green:)
-
Nothing is difficult. The clamps are very easy to use. The clamps also make it easy to align the mounting dowels and holes to get everything to push together. Then use the clamps to pull the panel to the baffle tight for the glue to set.
Once I get the top and bottom panel on, just have to put on the strap to clamp it to finish glue drying.
I am going to commit sacrilege and use fast-on connectors to the speaker terminals. They make cold weld connections if you know how to crimp properly. Will be wired up before woofer install. Through holes are already in the baffle for wire feeds.
The hardest part is wiring up the Neutrik Speakon connectors, as the wire is solid core and stiff. Still not a big issue. Going to use 14awg Romex wire from the fast-ons to Speakon connectors. I get it at the local Lowes as Romex 14-2 and remove the jacket and ground line. Probably 50' will do both speakers.
The woofer mounting holed are pre drilled, so just install the woofers and screw them down.
More pictures as I finish them.
-
Second side panel attached. Now for 24 hours of glue drying.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=116407)
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Second H-Frame has the sides glued on and clamps to let it dry.
Tomorrow will be the end caps and straps for another 24 hours and then time to install the 8" servo woofers for wiring.
Lowes had 50' spools of stranded 14awg THHN wire in red and white, so will use that to wire up the drivers to the Speakon connectors.
-
HAL,
Can that standard 14awg THHN wire be used for long runs such as speaker wire, running from your amp to the speakers ?
Or do you just use it for internal speaker wiring and not for long runs...?
thanks,
Virgil
-
It can be used for long runs. Lower DC resistance than 16awg. I normally just use it for internal wire, since it is hard to get Teflon coated copper wire that gauge.
It is pretty stiff, so you might want to hold the two wires together by twisting it. Since it is 14awg stranded, should hold up to vibration and movement.
Runs about $51 for 100 feet total. Bought two 50' rolls of white and red.
-
Gluing on the top and bottom panels:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=116499)
Putting on the straps to let the glue dry:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=116500)
Now let it all dry and do the second H-Frame.
-
That is a lot of glue :o
-
It fills up the space nicely when it goes under pressure. I just wipe the excess off.
Everything is very solidly attached with that amount so far on all the joints.
-
Hi Hal,
looking at all your pictures of your built,
I would say that putting it together is easier than putting together some IKEA stuff
I bought long time ago...
Guy 13
-
Guy13,
I would agree with some of the IKEA furniture I built over the years.
The second H-Frame is glued and drying.
Tomorrow will be installing the 8" servo woofers and wiring.
-
It looks like Ruben really made it easy for people without tools or wood working skills.
Looking forward to your impressions of the 3 eights, I'm pretty blown away with the two 12s in my new Super Vs.
Greg
-
I am already very familiar with the 3x8" servo sub array sound in my U-Frames with the 8" full range driver. They sound great! Not quite as much impact as the 2x12" in my Super-V's, but for this application will make great sound.
-
H-Frames completed and ready for driver install.
All the pieces are lettered for correct assembly of the H-Frame.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=116555)
-
H-Frames completed and ready for driver install.
All the pieces are lettered for correct assembly of the H-Frame.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=116555)
The H-Frames are reading fir the drivers, but you will paint them first, will you ?
Guy 13
-
No painting for me.
Waiting to hear from Skiing Ninja when he might be able to do the red finish.
Easy enough to remove the drivers and wiring when that can happen. Until them MDF brown will work. No WAF in my listening room!
-
No painting for me.
Waiting to hear from Skiing Ninja when he might be able to do the red finish.
Easy enough to remove the drivers and wiring when that can happen. Until them MDF brown will work. No WAF in my listening room!
Hi HAL,
good, got that !
Guy 13
-
Hopefully he will paint them with car paint..Shiny, glossy, Gary's turned out well when sprayed with reducer.. or spray bed liner....
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=116559)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=116560)
P
-
Hi,
the carpenter that made, paint and installed the French doors in our bed room used car diluted paint
and the result is stunning and it's durable and washable and glossy and, and...
Guy 13
-
The idea is to get them finished in Ferrari Red with racing stripes at some point. Skiing Ninja has access to the correct color paint.
-
H-Frames completed and ready for driver install.
All the pieces are lettered for correct assembly of the H-Frame.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=116555)
Well done, Sir! :thumb:
Anything I could have done differently to make things easier on you?
Here's a pic of the modular triple 12 inch flat pack. It's not finished, just mocked up.
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/h%20frame_zpsizwhggod.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/h%20frame_zpsizwhggod.jpg.html)
Unless something gets in the way I will be shipping Friday. :thumb:
Thanks,
Ruben
-
Well done, Sir! :thumb:
Anything I could have done differently to make things easier on you?
Here's a pic of the modular triple 12 inch flat pack. It's not finished, just mocked up.
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/h%20frame_zpsizwhggod.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/h%20frame_zpsizwhggod.jpg.html)
Unless something gets in the way I will be shipping Friday. :thumb:
Thanks,
Ruben
So Ruben,
These are modular boxes? If so, did you do this for strength or ease of build or both?
They look really good by the way :thumb:
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So Ruben,
These are modular boxes? If so, did you do this for strength or ease of build or both?
Hey Greg,
The triple 12" towers are very heavy. This design is intended to make them easier for one person to manage. They get assembled and built out as separate units and then stacked and bolted together in their permanent location. A neat feature of this system is that you can start out with a single driver and expand as necessary.
They look really good by the way :thumb:
Thanks!
I'll be sure to post a picture of the finished product. I've made a couple aesthetic improvements.
Ruben
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What a GREAT idea!
-
That should work nicely! :thumb:
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Flat pack arrived today. Incredible packing job. Gonna spend the next few days assembling the kit and painting it. Got some Duratex to give it a textured look.
-
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/655ac98c-fc75-4140-92e0-2a970021ddff_zps35qowwut.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/655ac98c-fc75-4140-92e0-2a970021ddff_zps35qowwut.jpg.html)
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Where's a "Like" button when ya need it?!
-
OH MY :o
You're out of control Ruben :thumb:
-jay
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The Audio Mad Scientist approves! BWAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!! :)
-
Ruben, I have 17' ceilings in my great room, how about 3 more :thumb:
I'm sure my wife won't mind :lol:
-
Where's a "Like" button when ya need it?!
In this instance you'd need a 'floored' button, both figuratively and literally..
-
I cut the fitted top to show how it looks. Not a problem for me either way. The over sized top is easier to install since you don't have to line the edges up.
Grilles will finish them off nicely!
Ruben
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/057c01c0-1de4-4a45-b7c2-9c2477630591_zpsggtwyjfk.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/057c01c0-1de4-4a45-b7c2-9c2477630591_zpsggtwyjfk.jpg.html)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/90b9e614-0631-4777-9a2c-2a6f54a06319_zpssaeuq1vt.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/90b9e614-0631-4777-9a2c-2a6f54a06319_zpssaeuq1vt.jpg.html)
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Ruben,
I really like the oversize top cap! Very nice indeed!
This is very cool!
-
OMG, just awesome! PM sent, Ruben.
-
I asked Ruben for a modular OB H-Frame sub array so that it makes it easy to ship and assemble at home. They are setup with adjacent drivers opposing each other like the other H-Frame subs.
They will lock together for stability.
Asked Danny for a pair of the Rythmik HX800 amps to drive them as it takes one amp per side for 6 - 12" sub drivers. The amp also has an XLR input, so I can use them with the dspMusik digital crossover as a direct feed from the DAC's since they have volume control for all 8 channels.
They are going in my 10' x 16' x 25' listening room for the system I am building.
This is going to be a fun project! :D
-
I asked Ruben for a modular OB H-Frame sub array so that it makes it easy to ship and assemble at home. They are setup with adjacent drivers opposing each other like the other H-Frame subs.
Originally I misunderstood what he was asking for. Rich was asking for 2 pairs of 3 x 12" H-frames and he was going to stack and clamp together. I thought he wanted (2) 3 x 12" H-frame flat packs that he could build in steps, so after a bit of thought I came up with what you see in the pictures. Simple to build, easy to manage and expandable. Fortunately, Rich liked the looks and flexibility of the modular system better, so I didn't have to remake them as single piece 3 x 12"'s. :thumb:
Rich, I'm finishing the grilles up today. I'll post another picture later today with the grilles attached.
Best,
Ruben
-
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/87a04606-d24d-45f1-8dae-dc1929ab42d4_zpsvxeonzyc.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/87a04606-d24d-45f1-8dae-dc1929ab42d4_zpsvxeonzyc.jpg.html)
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Ruben,
The grills look great on the sub array!
This is going to be very cool indeed! :thumb:
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Ruben,
The grills look great on the sub array!
This is going to be very cool indeed! :thumb:
Thanks!
Can't wait to see them once you've got them tearing your house apart at the seams. :thumb:
Ruben
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OMG, just awesome! PM sent, Ruben.
Just replied.
Thanks,
Ruben
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Ruben, I have 17' ceilings in my great room, how about 3 more :thumb:
I'm sure my wife won't mind :lol:
Just install them while she's out. Once they're loaded and assembled no one could move them. :green:
Ruben
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OH MY :o
You're out of control Ruben :thumb:
-jay
:thumb:
-
You have not seen the 7' line arrays that goes with sub towers. :D
-
The baffle look something like this?
Are you using B&G drivers?
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/3277b544-7bb2-44f4-b44c-2f2a716afee6_zps1xo3d9rp.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/3277b544-7bb2-44f4-b44c-2f2a716afee6_zps1xo3d9rp.jpg.html)
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Nope.
More like the LS-X. No BG's.
-
Cool! :thumb:
So they have the angled side panels/baffle extensions?
Thanks,
Ruben
-
That is the plan.
I have sample drivers coming to test. Will see what happens.
-
Looking forward to the results Rich..... I need a bigger room !!
jay
-
Looking forward to the results Rich..... I need a bigger room !!
jay
Room heck, I need a bigger house :lol:
Mike
-
Ruben let me know the two 6x12" modular servo array flat packs were shipped.
The glue and clamps are waiting for their arrival! :D
-
They'll be there Thursday, Rich. :thumb:
Ruben
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/b1dd8acc-fb85-4b3c-b83e-b4b184504250_zpsbo3ywt0q.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/b1dd8acc-fb85-4b3c-b83e-b4b184504250_zpsbo3ywt0q.jpg.html)
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Ruben,
They look great!
Have the hand truck waiting on arrival! :thumb:
-
Just received the flat packs from Ruben for the two 6x12" servo woofer arrays. Great packaging as usual.
Will start these after the trip to Texas.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=118181)
-
Shipping soon. :thumb:
Ruben
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/8inchservosubstands_zps92514268.png) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/8inchservosubstands_zps92514268.png.html)
Is this H-Frame 3 x 8" OB flat pack available yet? If so, how much is it, and is it for a pair? Thanks.
-
You might want to PM Ruben. I built mine from his flat packs.
-
You might want to PM Ruben. I built mine from his flat packs.
Thanks, Ruben PMed me with a quote.
-
Thanks, Ruben PMed me with a quote.
How much for 2x 3-8"?
-
If anyone is interested in a built set of the 3x8" servo sub H-Frames, 6-8" servo drivers and HX300 servo amps, still in original boxes to be installed, PM me. Now that I have the modular 6x12" to use, they are extra.
-
HAL you have a PM
-
Replied.
The grills for the two 6x12" servo sub H-Frames arrived. Great packing as usual. Will get them unpacked and start building the 1x12" modules a few at a time.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=118865)
-
The grills liberated from the packing.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=118871)
-
Any testing on the drivers for the arrays yet Rich ?
jay
-
Jay,
These are getting the GR-Research OB sub drivers and Rythmik amps. Just starting with the PEQ370 and 6 - 12" drivers, since I have most of that here.
Most of the test sample drivers for line array are at GR-Research for measurements. One more driver sample arrives this week and will be shipped to Texas when available.
-
Jay,
These are getting the GR-Research OB sub drivers and Rythmik amps. Just starting with the PEQ370 and 6 - 12" drivers, since I have most of that here.
Most of the test sample drivers for line array are at GR-Research for measurements. One more driver sample arrives this week and will be shipped to Texas when available.
Hey Rich
Yeah, I realized the sub towers are using the 12" servo subs, it was the other drivers for the lone array (you'd previously mentioned them) that I was curious about..
-jay
-
jay,
I am waiting for the driver measurement results when Danny has time. I am hoping that the mfg's response plots are close and these are just confirmation of the ones to use.
-
Unboxing the 1x12" modular H-Frame servo sub flat packs. Came packed three 1x12" modules to a box.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=118925)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=118926)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=118927)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=118928)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=118935)
-
First module sides and center panel glued. Once dried, put the end panels on and start the next one.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=118936)
-
First 1x12" H-Frame module gluing completed. Now to let it dry and do the other 5 for this round tomorrow.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=118941)
-
I HAL,
I enjoy seeing a step by step building of a kit and/or project.
Thanks for sharing.
Guy 13
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Guy13,
Glad you are enjoying the pictures.
Here is the last one. Module glue is dry. Mounting holes for the 12" OB servo sub driver ready to start installation. Now to build 5 more.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=118990)
-
Glued the top cap on the first module for the left channel and drying.
Temporary cabinet stack to show the 3x8" and 3x12" H-Frame servo sub sizes.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=119037)
-
Glued the top cap on the first module for the left channel and drying.
Temporary cabinet stack to show the 3x8" and 3x12" H-Frame servo sub sizes.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=119037)
That's a great "descriptive" shot Rich. I'm sure it will be handy for some folks trying visualize the differences and make a decision betweenn the two
jay
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jay,
Heard the 3x12" H-Frame at both RMAF2013 and at Danny's place last week. Best bass response I have ever heard in a real room.
The two 6x12" servo sub arrays should be on par with the Genesis 1.1 speaker's bass capability. That is my goal. :D
-
jay,
Heard the 3x12" H-Frame at both RMAF2013 and at Danny's place last week. Best bass response I have ever heard in a real room.
The two 6x12" servo sub arrays should be on par with the Genesis 1.1 speaker's bass capability. That is my goal. :D
I've got a pair of dual 12" H fmes tha I absolutely love. After hearing those, my buddy has picked up the parts for a pair of the triple 12's which hopefully I'll be wiring up soon. Really looking orward to listening to those .
I can't imagine how the dual 6x12" OB arrays are going to sound, and if your OB line sources work out..... :o
jay
-
Funny how that pic doesn't quite capture how big those cabinets are.
-
It is probably the look down angle of the picture where I took it.
Just checked and looks like I can do two 4x12" with the existing A370PEQ amps from the Super-V's. Will have to get another pair of 12" drivers from Danny on order sometime. Will get the HX800 amps with the remaining drivers later.
-
Can you parallel 4 of the driver coils together ? That will put you a bit below 2 ohm right ?
Or do you have to series/prallel ?
jay
-
These are 16ohm drivers, so four in parallel are 4 ohms. The amp is rated at 4 ohms, so should be good.
-
These are 16ohm drivers, so four in parallel are 4 ohms. The amp is rated at 4 ohms, so should be good.
I think actually Danny has posted that they are closer to 12ohm , 3 gives you right around 4 ohm, might just want to double check that addig the 4th is not going to drop the impedence too low
jay
jay
-
Will have to check as the rated DCR is 14 ohms. That would mean the minimum is around 3.5 ohms.
Will be taking them out of the other speaker soon, so will check them with my DMM.
-
You guys can run three of the SW-12-16FR woofers on one amp. Using the HX800 amp you can run six of them. :thumb:
-
Bummer, I was going to start out with 4 per side on the A370PEQ. Oh well, will get the three per side going first.
-
One more pair of the 12" OB servo subs from Danny will be here tomorrow to install in the 1x12" modules. That will make the six to do the 1/2 stack sub tower.
Picture of the six modules built so far from the flat packs:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=119078)
-
One more pair of the 12" OB servo subs from Danny will be here tomorrow to install in the 1x12" modules. That will make the six to do the 1/2 stack sub tower.
Picture of the six modules built so far from the flat packs:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=119078)
Hi HAL,
I prefer the look of the one on the right side,
but that's me
and it does not mean that the one on the left side
is not nice looking.
I'm still riveted to my computer's screen to see you next move.
Guy 13
-
Guy13,
The total look is all six stacked.
Ruben will make the top and bottom differently if preferred. This was something that we talked about with the base and top just for my pair.
Two more woofers are getting here tomorrow. Will keep building modules today and hopefully be finished by Friday. Then load up six woofers into the towers.
-
The Monolith of Subs!
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=119103)
-
LOL, it looks impressive in the pic, can't imagine how it looks in person.
Don't have too many drinks around those.... could get a little tippy :nono:
jay
-
Should not be when they are fully bolted together. There is a lot of mass just in the MDF. Wide base as well for stability.
Once the woofers go in at ~20lbs each, add another 120lbs. Probably around 200lbs per side total.
-
My dual ob sub weighs around 87 pounds so that times 3 = 261!
-
Even better! :thumb:
-
Monolith is a perfect name for these, man would I love to here them.
Can't wait to see them finished with all 6 subs installed, way cool for sure :thumb:
So the other tower for the ribbons will be a bit shorter, thinner and stand next to these?
-
The line array idea is 87" tall. Will be the offset angle "L" style baffle. About 10" wide and 10" deep.
The line array will be in front with the sub array to the side and behind.
Baffles are being built and finished. I can adjust the spacing of the front as needed to try different drivers until a choice is made.
Three more done. Only three more to glue up!
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=119147)
-
Thanks for the continual updates Rich. These should sound incredible when finished!
-
Thanks! Guess I am learning how to blog! :D
Another module glued and drying. Two more to go.
-
One module left to glue tomorrow. Then start installing the 12" OB servo sub drivers.
-
One module left to glue tomorrow. Then start installing the 12" OB servo sub drivers.
Hi HAL,
yours project and the one of the daughter of Bob in St-Louis
are both captivating and I follow them daily and even more often....
Take you time, even if you are anxious to get it done,
because I enjoy every minute/step of your project.
Guy 13
-
Guy13,
Glad you are enjoying the pictures.
The first picture for today. Gluing completed. Waiting for the last module to dry and then start installing the 12" servo drivers.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=119194)
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Hi HAL,
I hope the gluing is not too messy,
because look as if you are doing it in the living room.
Did you needed wife approval to temporarely transform the living room
into a workshop ? :lol:
Guy 13
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Guy13,
That is my mom's old apartment that is attached to our house. It was her living room. When friends come to visit they stay there now. All one level so easy to get around.
Time to start moving it all to the listening room downstairs for driver installation.
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Guy13,
That is my mom's old apartment that is attached to our house. It was her living room. When friends come to visit they stay there now. All one level so easy to get around.
Time to start moving it all to the listening room downstairs for driver installation.
I was beginning to wonder what was going on there. It seemed like you had speakers under construction in every room of your house!
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Guy13,
That is my mom's old apartment that is attached to our house. It was her living room. When friends come to visit they stay there now. All one level so easy to get around.
Time to start moving it all to the listening room downstairs for driver installation.
Hi (Again) HAL,
thanks for the precision.
You will have to move it like it was a LEGO toy,
piece by piece...
Guy 13
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Guy13,
That is why I had Ruben build it as a modular sub. No way to move the entire stack built due to the height in my house. Lego sub blocks! :thumb:
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Guy13,
That is why I had Ruben build it as a modular sub. No way to move the entire stack built due to the height in my house. Lego sub blocks! :thumb:
Hi (Again - again) HAL,
so you will have to do 12 trips to get all of those (LEGO) blocks
to their final resting destination.
Guy 13
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Woofer-saurus I say. Ya better reinforce your home. :P
charles
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Charles,
The room reinforcement was done at the time I built the house 20 years ago.
The room is 10' x 16'x 25.2'. All four walls are 14" thick. There is a 9" block outer wall sitting on a 6" slab. Then a 1" airgap between that and the 2"x4" interior wall with two pieces of 1/2" gypsum board at 90deg angles. It is my audio bunker as 1/2 of the room is underground. No problem developing low frequency bass and I have also treated it with ASC tube traps in the four corners of the room. First reflection points have Sonex, RPG foam or RPG abfusors.
The OB servo subs should solve the base modes that are left after careful original room planning.
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Hal, Ruben
How are the modules held together when final assembly is done ?
jay
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There are two bolt holes on the top and bottom of each module. Only top and bottom have one pair. Came with enough bolts, washers and nuts to hold them all together once stacked.
The thin relief shims that go between layers do need to be drilled to match up with the holes. Those are needed so the grill will fit on front. If no grills, then bolt away.
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There are two bolt holes on the top and bottom of each module. Only top and bottom have one pair. Came with enough bolts, washers and nuts to hold them all together once stacked.
The thin relief shims that go between layers do need to be drilled to match up with the holes. Those are needed so the grill will fit on front. If no grills, then bolt away.
Got ya ! I see the holes now, missed them before
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=119194)
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Nice pair of... Woofers! :green:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=119215)
Complete with mounting screws in the box!
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Charles,
The room reinforcement was done at the time I built the house 20 years ago.
The room is 10' x 16'x 25.2'. All four walls are 14" thick. There is a 9" block outer wall sitting on a 6" slab. Then a 1" airgap between that and the 2"x4" interior wall with two pieces of 1/2" gypsum board at 90deg angles. It is my audio bunker as 1/2 of the room is underground. No problem developing low frequency bass and I have also treated it with ASC tube traps in the four corners of the room. First reflection points have Sonex, RPG foam or RPG abfusors.
The OB servo subs should solve the base modes that are left after careful original room planning.
Oh man, what I wouldn't give for a room with those dimensions! Very close to the Golden Ratio ideal of 1 X 1.6 X 2.6. All the room modes will be as even and mild as possible in a sealed room, and the OB sub's inherent qualities are going to be clearly apparent!
-
Those were the dimensions I was trying for, but the building materials would only let me get close.
Still, very even bass response and extremely quiet in the room.
-
Drivers installed into the bottom two H-Frames to start the stacks. Making sure I have all the screws lined up before fully tightening them down.
Four more after that, once I get them out of the Super-V's and bring down the extra modules.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=119232)
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Hi HAL,
wow, that driver fit pretty snuggly in there,
not much room around it.
Some screws must have been a little dificult to screw in ?
Guy 13
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Guy13,
No, all the screws are easy to start and fully seat with a hex head driver. I have a ratcheting driver that has a hex head set for this type of work. It is tight, but enough room to work easily.
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Ruben really did make these easy to assemble with markings on each 1x12" module for correct orientation of all the pieces and numbered in order of install from 1-6. I am just a guy with the clamps and glue he sent to use doing the easy parts. The flat packs are well packed against damage just like the 3x8" H-Frames were.
Just glue up the entire 1x12" module at one time and clamp it, so everything goes together and fits before drying. It really is that simple.
Now to figure out what finish to eventually put on them. Not really needed in my listening area, but would make them look cool.
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Ruben really did make these easy to assemble with markings on each 1x12" module for correct orientation of all the pieces and numbered in order of install from 1-6. I am just a guy with the clamps and glue he sent to use doing the easy parts. The flat packs are well packed against damage just like the 3x8" H-Frames were.
Just glue up the entire 1x12" module at one time and clamp it, so everything goes together and fits before drying. It really is that simple.
Now to figure out what finish to eventually put on them. Not really needed in my listening area, but would make them look cool.
Hi HAL,
what do you mean " Now to figure out what finish to eventually put on them.
Not really needed in my listening area "
You cannot do that ! :nono:
Those work of art from Ruben deserve to be dess-up with some nice paint,
don't you think so ?
Guy 13
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Guy13,
I am talking to folks about doing the cabinet finishing. I asked Ruben about what to use and will be talking to them after going to Axpona this week. All depends on price and timeframe at this point.
Still thinking about Ferrari Red with Racing stripes for my pair. If not, maybe black Duratex like Danny sells. Very durable finish.
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Guy13,
I am talking to folks about doing the cabinet finishing. I asked Ruben about what to use and will be talking to them after going to Axpona this week. All depends on price and timeframe at this point.
Still thinking about Ferrari Red with Racing stripes for my pair. If not, maybe black Duratex like Danny sells. Very durable finish.
Hi HAL, that's good to read.
Here it's 9.30pm, so now after reading what you wrote,
I can go to bed and sleep tight... :lol:
Guy 13
Ferrari Red, Ferrari Red, Ferrari Red.... :thumb:
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There are two bolt holes on the top and bottom of each module. Only top and bottom have one pair. Came with enough bolts, washers and nuts to hold them all together once stacked.
The thin relief shims that go between layers do need to be drilled to match up with the holes. Those are needed so the grill will fit on front. If no grills, then bolt away.
Hi Rich,
Actually, those holes are for the wire runs. You will need to drill the bolt holes. 2 bolts in front and 2 in back. Drill the holes approx. 1 1/4" in from the front edge and 1 1/4" out from inside face of the side panels. The exact location in either direction isn't critical. Just make sure you can get the drill at a 90 degree angle before you lay out the hole locations. The straighter you drill the holes, the flatter the bolt/nuts will sit on the washers. I decided not to drill them before shipping because there is a little play in the dowel holes and dadoes. If I drilled them here with everything lined up perfectly and there was a little variation once you got them glued up, the side panels would not line up the same way once bolted together. Leaving them un-drilled allows some forgiveness in your glue up. If they weren't perfectly aligned during assembly it doesn't matter. You just need to line up the side panels, clamp one module to the one below it and drill your holes.
The 3/32" set back on the 3/4" top and bottoms from the face of the side panels and the 1/8" reveal between each module not only look nice, but are designed to allow some slight misalignment without being noticeable.
Thanks for taking us all through the build process, Rich. It's fun to watch.
Really looking forward to seeing them finished and reading about your impressions on how they sound.
Ruben
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Ruben,
I have another idea for attachment and connection of the modules. No need for extra holes.
Use the existing holes on the bottom and tops and just drill the relief plates to match. This connects the modules together for stability.
Run the wiring to the back of each box and on the sides to a 12 wide euro style terminal strip at the middle of the stack. This way the modules can be taken apart and moved if needed at a later time. Minimizes wiring runs from the drivers and servo coils to the amps. Also allows for the stack to be reconfigured from 1-6 modules as needed for different trials. Totally modular and reconfigurable. Each module can be shipped independently for weight and size reduction.
My thoughts so far.
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Ruben,
I have another idea for attachment and connection of the modules. No need for extra holes.
Use the existing holes on the bottom and tops and just drill the relief plates to match. This connects the modules together for stability.
IMO, it would be better to use 4 bolts located near the outside edges to keep everything really stiff. Only 2 bolts near the center would leave the 3/4" panels loose and able to resonate and would likely allow some front to back movement/sway on the entire array.
If you plan to use just the 2 holes near the center I would recommend you add at least one bolt in front and back that's centered and about 1" - 1 1/4" in from the edge of the 3/4" panels.
Run the wiring to the back of each box and on the sides to a 12 wide euro style terminal strip at the middle of the stack. This way the modules can be taken apart and moved if needed at a later time. Minimizes wiring runs from the drivers and servo coils to the amps. Also allows for the stack to be reconfigured from 1-6 modules as needed for different trials. Totally modular and reconfigurable. Each module can be shipped independently for weight and size reduction.
My thoughts so far.
That would be a good option for people who needed to reconfigure them regularly. :thumb:
For people who plan to build and leave them alone, a pre-drilled run would likely be ideal. Nothing else to buy, configure, or install.
Thanks,
Ruben
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The 3/32" set back on the 3/4" top and bottoms from the face of the side panels and the 1/8" reveal between each module not only look nice, but are designed to allow some slight misalignment without being noticeable.
Thanks for taking us all through the build process, Rich. It's fun to watch.
Really looking forward to seeing them finished and reading about your impressions on how they sound.
Ruben
That was a great idea Ruben, you think of everything :thumb:
Rich, using a pair of bolts up front as well as out back to connect each layer is probably a better idea. Having 4 points spaced apart like that is going to be nice and solid
Interesting idea about the wiring
jay
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Since I have to use a hand drill to make holes, they would not be very strait. Never drilled a straight wood hole in my life without a drill press.
I was thinking of using the rear corner and opposing front corner for the bolt holes. This way the airflow in the direct front and back are not disturbed buy the bolts.
Four flush mounted C clamps with plates and clamping bolts at the front and rear corners might be better and easier to install than drilling holes in my case. Then the center holes would still be available for wiring. This would put two bolts at each corner for clamping, but with distributed force. More is better! :)
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Found them. Laptop docking station C clamps.
Line them with self adhesive rubber for damping and should be good to go.
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Since I have to use a hand drill to make holes, they would not be very strait. Never drilled a straight wood hole in my life without a drill press.
I was thinking of using the rear corner and opposing front corner for the bolt holes. This way the airflow in the direct front and back are not disturbed buy the bolts.
Four flush mounted C clamps with plates and clamping bolts at the front and rear corners might be better and easier to install than drilling holes in my case. Then the center holes would still be available for wiring. This would put two bolts at each corner for clamping, but with distributed force. More is better! :)
Sounds like you've found a solution that works well for you. :thumb:
In the future, if you ever need to drill straight holes and using a drill press isn't an option, this drill guide would be a great solution. http://www.amazon.com/Gator-V-DrillGuide-Standard-Portable-Drilling/dp/B0061FY004/ref=pd_sim_hi_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1TN2DZSV61GCH6GDW3J1
From now on I'm just going to drill the holes here and leave a little slop for alignment. It would only take me a few minutes to drill them all. The holes don't really need to be tight against the bolts anyway. Once all 4 bolts are tightened they won't be budging.
Best,
Ruben
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Ruben,
Thanks. The jig looks promising for a hand drill.
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First two 12" drivers installed.
Temporary 3x12" stacks for the other four 12" driver installs.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=119513)
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Hi HAL,
up to now, very good, please keep going, keep going...
Are you sure that six (06) blocks will fit under the ceiling ?
Did you take masearements ? :lol:
Guy 13
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Rich - been watching your postings. Looks really nice.
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Guy 13,
My ceiling is 10' tall in my listening room. I could have gone one more 12" module high if I wanted. This will be the close to the 87" tall line arrays when they are done.
Phil A,
Thanks! Had lots of fun with glue and clamps! :)
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Had lots of fun with glue and clamps! :)
Glad to hear that! :D
Ruben
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Guy 13,
My ceiling is 10' tall in my listening room. I could have gone one more 12" module high if I wanted. This will be the close to the 87" tall line arrays when they are done.
Phil A,
Thanks! Had lots of fun with glue and clamps! :)
Hi HAL,
it would be interesting to have picture of you or someone else
climbing the ladder or at top of the 8' ladder with one block at arm length
struggling to put it on top.
Just joking, I am sure you will do the erection in a safe manner.
Guy 13
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Hi HAL,
it would be interesting to have picture of you or someone else
climbing the ladder or at top of the 8' ladder with one block at arm length
struggling to put it on top.
Just joking, I am sure you will do the erection in a safe manner.
Guy 13
Well, if it lasts longer than 4 hours he should contact his doctor.
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I just can't wait for Christmas when we see them decorated with lights and an angel on top cuz you can't fit a Christmas tree in the room :lol:
Seriously, they are coming along nicely Rich
As for the glue and clamps, that's what's it's all about man , FUN :beer:
jay
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Well, if it lasts longer than 4 hours he should contact his doctor.
LOL!
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Well, if it lasts longer than 4 hours he should contact his doctor.
:rotflmao: Guy can be pretty dang funny when he's not trying.
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I see that there is a dark tint base for Duratex at this point in a 1 gallon size.
Anybody tried it in another color than black? Maybe dark red or maroon?
Also can you use a standard roller for a non-textured surface?
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Ordered the 16 Neutrik Speakon 4 pole connectors for the 6x12" array's. Connector and plug for each module and one set for each amp.
Using 14awg stranded copper wire that will be as short as possible to keep the DC resistance down and time delay low for the connections.
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Also can you use a standard roller for a non-textured surface?
I used their "spray" mixture with a very thin nap roller and got a very lightly textured finish (but not a satin smooth finish like Ruben produces with his spray gun). I'd call the Duratex people up for advice on what you are after - they are very helpful!
gab
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gab,
Thanks! I will give them a call.
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Waiting on the Speakon connectors to arrive to wire up the 12" drivers to the servo amps.
Once I have them, can start wiring up the driver in each module so that they can be disconnected if needed. Will locate the socket at the rear corner of each H-Frame. Each set of three 12" drivers will then be connected together to connect to the servo amps. Using 14awg stranded wire for all the connections.
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The Speakon connectors arrived and wiring has begun.
Going to reverse the wiring inside the Speakon jack attached to the H-Frame for the rear facing 12" drivers so that all the plug wiring is the same for sense and speaker coils.
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The Speakon connectors arrived and wiring has begun.
Going to reverse the wiring inside the Speakon jack attached to the H-Frame for the rear facing 12" drivers so that all the plug wiring is the same for sense and speaker coils.
Way to go, Rich!
Almost there. :hyper:
Ruben
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Received the fiber reinforced plastic C clamps to use with the H-Frame modules. Will put two of them on the rear of the 1x12" modules and use the two bolts to stabilize the setup. This should work nicely.
Tomorrow starts the 14awg stranded wiring of the modules. This will take a while!
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At least the 12's don't have to be soldered up like the 8's do. I lost count of how many times I burned myself trying to maneuver a soldering iron left handed (I'm right handed) in such a tight place. Once I thought about laying the cabinets on their sides so the connections were facing up rather than sideways things went a little smoother.
Mike
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That is why I used fast on connectors on my 8" servo drivers.
Works well on my U-Frame as long as you make sure the connections are tight. It is a cold weld.
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When soldering up the 12's, I just laid the cabinets over on their back/front on a pillow so the terminals were facing up.
Dont install no rez on back side of driver until after soldering.... learned that during first H-frame build :lol:
\
jay
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The 12" drivers have spring terminals, not solder like the 8" drivers.
That should make it a lot easier to wire.
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I wasn't overly impressed with the spring connectors which is why they are now soldered to the tabs
jay
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Reconfigured the 1x12" H-Frames to work with the OB desktop speaker idea. Still working on moving drivers and wiring to the Speakon connectors.
Have the first pair of balanced input ChipAmps built and working on the second set.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=120938)
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Looks like a mad scientist's lab :green: Good job
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Hey Rich,
Looks like fun! :thumb:
A couple years ago Danny asked me to build that 3 x 8" section as you have it built, but with that winged Neo section built in. Simple and functional. Well, I took it upon myself to add a little "flair" and heavily redesigned them. I asked if I could split the baffle extension in half and add the second half to the opposite side since the baffle would still be the same width overall. He said "sure". So I divided the wing in to 2 parts and curved/bowed them. I think they look cool. However, if I were to rebuild them today I'd make the 8" baffle and the arch on the top of the Neo baffle a little differently.
Best,
Ruben
Here's the mock-up.
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/OB2.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/OB2.jpg.html)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/OB3.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/OB3.jpg.html)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/OB1.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/OB1.jpg.html)
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Ruben,
Looks cool!
I went with the 1/2 wing as Danny suggested. They are to shield the back wave from the desktop monitor that would sit between them for monitoring purposes.
Should be fun with the 2x12" under them.
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I like the symmetry of this design a lot. Plus the flair and elegance of the H-frame!
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Hey Rich,
Looks like fun! :thumb:
A couple years ago Danny asked me to build that 3 x 8" section as you have it built, but with that winged Neo section built in. Simple and functional. Well, I took it upon myself to add a little "flair" and heavily redesigned them. I asked if I could split the baffle extension in half and add the second half to the opposite side since the baffle would still be the same width overall. He said "sure". So I divided the wing in to 2 parts and curved/bowed them. I think they look cool. However, if I were to rebuild them today I'd make the 8" baffle and the arch on the top of the Neo baffle a little differently.
Best,
Ruben
Here's the mock-up.
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/OB2.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/OB2.jpg.html)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/OB3.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/OB3.jpg.html)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/OB1.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/OB1.jpg.html)
HAWT!
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Have two more 12" servo drivers on the way from Danny.
Will hopefully get them next week and finish up the 2x12" subs. Will set it up with the two HX300 servo amps with balanced inputs.
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Hey Rich,
Looks like fun! :thumb:
A couple years ago Danny asked me to build that 3 x 8" section as you have it built, but with that winged Neo section built in. Simple and functional. Well, I took it upon myself to add a little "flair" and heavily redesigned them. I asked if I could split the baffle extension in half and add the second half to the opposite side since the baffle would still be the same width overall. He said "sure". So I divided the wing in to 2 parts and curved/bowed them. I think they look cool. However, if I were to rebuild them today I'd make the 8" baffle and the arch on the top of the Neo baffle a little differently.
Best,
Ruben
Here's the mock-up.
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/OB2.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/OB2.jpg.html)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/OB3.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/OB3.jpg.html)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/OB1.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/OB1.jpg.html)
Multiple drivers in different planes playing the same freq, phase issues? The sub section
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At 300Hz the wavelength is 3.75 feet (45.0 inches).
That looks like less than 1/4 wavelength (11.3") between them for cancellation effects. There will be some loss of full line array summing.
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Multiple drivers in different planes playing the same freq, phase issues? The sub section
Lets say the subs play all the way up to 160Hz. That wavelength is 7 feet long. So a 4" offset would be about 8 degrees of phase rotation. So it will have no effect.
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(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/OB2.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/OB2.jpg.html)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/OB3.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/OB3.jpg.html)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/OB1.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/OB1.jpg.html)
That is one stylish looking sub tower. Sure makes my H-Frames look plain.
Mike
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At 300Hz the wavelength is 3.75 feet (45.0 inches).
That looks like less than 1/4 wavelength (11.3") between them for cancellation effects. There will be some loss of full line array summing.
Rich,
They aren't offset near that much. There won't be more than 15 degrees of phase rotation between them at 300Hz. You'll have more than that with the line of six 12's from the top drivers to the bottom drivers from almost any point.
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Danny,
Understand. I was just pointing out that it would be very little loss at those frequencies even that high same as your next post.
I think it looks cool!
Rich
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That is one stylish looking sub tower. Sure makes my H-Frames look plain.
Mike
Thanks, Mike!
That was just a quick mock-up. If I were to build a finished set they'd be built using 1 1/4" MDF and have inset grilles that followed the contour of the side panels.
Glad to hear you got your set finished and to the show. :thumb:
I'm in the middle of building a set of modular 3 x 8" hot rod black H-frames. Should look pretty cool when they're done. I'll have pics up soon.
Best,
Ruben
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More servo subs arrived! Second set of 1x12" modules being populated and wired.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=121763)
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Isn't playing with new toys fun? :D
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Yes, and it never gets old! :thumb:
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Where are the plate amps going to be located? I guess the shortest wiring would be with each amp at the back of the middle box of the three woofers that amp powers. You could mount each amp on strips of MDP running across the back of that middle box. By the way, are you getting the XLR2 version of the A370 amp? If so, you can slave the second amp off the first on each side (left channel and right), making adjustments easier.
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I am working toward the HX800XLR3 amps. Only need two for both 6x12" servo arrays.
I have the large external chassis that sits on the floor from the Super-V's. Plan to build two wiring harness per side to wire each half of the 6x12" array. Then take each half to the HX800 amp. The crossover has balanced outputs to drive the servo amp XLR inputs.
For the 2x12" servo sub, I am using the HX300 amp that I have for the 3x8" servo array. Will be testing the wiring array idea with this amp before building the full setup.
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Second pair of 12" Servo Subs installed into the 1x12" H-Frame modules.
Will be wiring them up tomorrow to the HX300 amps.
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Reading your thread is gibing me itchy fingers here Rich.... hoping to get the cabinets back soon.
What's the word on those HX800's ? Are they available now or .......
jay
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jay,
Danny said that he can order them when I am ready. If you want them, just give him a call. They are on the Rythmik website as the HX800XLR3, but not GR-Research yet.
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I am working toward the HX800XLR3 amps. Only need two for both 6x12" servo arrays.
I have the large external chassis that sits on the floor from the Super-V's. Plan to build two wiring harness per side to wire each half of the 6x12" array. Then take each half to the HX800 amp. The crossover has balanced outputs to drive the servo amp XLR inputs.
For the 2x12" servo sub, I am using the HX300 amp that I have for the 3x8" servo array. Will be testing the wiring array idea with this amp before building the full setup.
Even better! I hadn't seen the HX800 (I just looked at it on the Rythmik amp page), but that's the perfect amp for your 6-woofers a side needs, 3 per each channel of the amp. By the way Danny, you gotta have a talk with Brian---on the Rythmik Forum he keeps telling people they can hook up four of the "16" (actually 12) ohm woofers to the A370 and H600 plate amps!
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Second pair of servo subs installed in the modules. Wired up the left channel drivers and will work on the right channel tomorrow.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=121851)
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Another pair of 6 x 12's. These were shipped as (4) 3 x 12" unfinished units that bolt together. I changed the look a little by adding 1/8" reveals between the cap and base and insetting the grille like I did on the Super 7's. They stand proud by 1/8" and have a 1/8" round-over on the vertical edges.
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/d3239b80-54ea-445b-8acb-0b06b9f57d54_zpsy9c4thco.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/d3239b80-54ea-445b-8acb-0b06b9f57d54_zpsy9c4thco.jpg.html)
Here's how they look in a 3 x 12" configuration.
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/0feb38b8-03b6-4e66-b4e4-b887d8f1d0c3_zpsmnllahlq.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/0feb38b8-03b6-4e66-b4e4-b887d8f1d0c3_zpsmnllahlq.jpg.html)
Ruben
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Second pair of servo subs installed in the modules. Wired up the left channel drivers and will work on the right channel tomorrow.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=121851)
Alright Rich - how did I miss these? (or did I.....)
I was just talking with Anne about a Neo 3/Neo 8 or 10 Wedge to sit on top of a pair of 12" OB H-Frame as a possible solution in the new house.
Do you have these working yet?
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Alright Rich - how did I miss these? (or did I.....)
I was just talking with Anne about a Neo 3/Neo 8 or 10 Wedge to sit on top of a pair of 12" OB H-Frame as a possible solution in the new house.
Do you have these working yet?
Can you feel the ground shakin' yet ? :lol:
jay
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SoCalWJS,
The NEO3/NEO10 combo are working with the 3x8" servo subs. Sound great with the MS-3 and dspMusik digital crossover biamped.
I am wiring up the two 2x12" this week. Had a bit of a setback the last two weeks, but ready to get back to wiring.
No need for the full two 6x12" servo arrays until the new line array idea is ready.
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The two 2x12" servo subs for the NEO3/NEO10 OB three way speakers are wired and first one is working.
Checking the wiring on #2 one more time before firing up the HX300 amp.
Will be doing measurements and setup with the dspMusik for the three way crossover system once both the subs are running.
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Finally both 2x12" servo woofers are running.
Next up, speaker measurements to setup the dspMusik with the servo subs in the three way crossover system.
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The Monolith of Subs!
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=119103)
Hal,
Did you ever finish building the Monolith. If so can we get a review of how it sounds.
TIA,
Steve
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I only have 1/3 of each tower built.
Once I have more money will be buying more OB servo drivers and amps from Danny to complete them.
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Second pair of servo subs installed in the modules. Wired up the left channel drivers and will work on the right channel tomorrow.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=121851)
Did you ever try the Neo 3/Neo 10 with the 2x12's?
I have the Super V's up and running at the new house and considering they're kind of shoe-horned in and almost in a little alcove, hooked up to a tiny Denon AVR, they sound OK.
There's a part of me that wants to try to take them in the direction of the Serenity Super 7's though......
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I tried the 2x12's with the HX300. The PEQ370's sounded better with those drivers, so going to those amps. Have to make sure the wiring is the same for both as the next step. Just taking them off my Super-V's.
The NEO3/NEO10 combo with the dspMusik as the digital crossover sounds very good (used with the 3x8" servo U-Frame). No where near as much output as the Super-V's coaxial, but it is more of my style, since I like planars. Problem is getting any more of the BG drivers since they were sold to Christy Digital last year. No new production drivers have been available since last December.
Have to get the rest of the unused 1x12 modules out of the room to set it up and listen. Now to make some storage space.
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Do the servo driver "sets" need to be in close physical proximity? An entire tower of woofers seems a bit overkill, but placing a driver close to the floor, and another driver about 1/3 of the room height would help better load the room in 3 dimensions. Just a thought.
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You need to keep the servo wiring short for best operation.
Was not overkill in the late '70s when Infinity built the IRS Reference III speakers with two 6x12" servo subs.
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Do the servo driver "sets" need to be in close physical proximity? An entire tower of woofers seems a bit overkill, but placing a driver close to the floor, and another driver about 1/3 of the room height would help better load the room in 3 dimensions. Just a thought.
Using the OB woofers separately (rather than in pairs or trios) is not an ideal implementation of them for a couple of reasons. First, as HAL just said, the wiring between the plate amp and woofer(s) has to be as short as possible. But also because the OB woofers do not have as much output as the non-OB woofers, and require being used in at least pairs to increase their output. A better sub to go with for your idea of subs at different locations in a room would be standard non-OB 12" GR woofers in sealed boxes, each having it's own plate amp. If your sub locations require long inter-connects from pre-amp to subs, consider getting the XLR version of the A370 amp, for balanced connections.
HAL, I couldn't swing the price of the IRS' (few could!), but did have a pair of Infinity's Reference Standard Ib, the mini-version of the IRS. It was comprised of an open baffle "wing" onto which were mounted EMIN and EMIT midrange and tweeter ribbons, with a separate sealed column housing six 8" servo-feedback woofers. I prefer my current speakers, Eminent Technology LFT-8b's with GR Research OB subs (each having two 12's)!
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So, define "short" and "as short as possible"? Are you saying that putting a 3' gap between each of the drivers of the 2x12" servo sub configuration would be too much distance? Or, with the "monolith" structure, putting drivers in the bottom (position 1) and another driver in Position 4 (starting the count from the bottom) would be too great of a distance?
Or, maybe a more interesting question...if you could only add drivers one at a time to the "monolith" frame, what is the position sequence?
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Danny's original OB/Dipole sub design was a pair of 12" woofers in a W-Frame, the plans for which can be found on the GR Research site, in the specs for the woofer itself. He then designed an H-frame, which also uses two 12's in a single assembly, the plans for which are also in the 12" woofer listing. The single-woofer H-frame (six of them stacked atop one another) you have been looking at pictured here was designed only to make the subs more manageable, size and weight-wise. It wasn't done to make each woofer separate---the stack of six single-woofer H-frames could just as easily have been made as three dual-woofer H-frames, but each would have then been twice as big and heavy.