If you can build IKEA furniture, these will be a breeze. H Frame Flat Packs

Yes, the amps are external plate style amps. http://gr-research.com/a370peq.aspx I can provide amp box flat packs as well.

This one is similar and should give you a good idea of how the flat packs will look when finished.

Thanks,

Ruben

ctviggen · « **Reply #27 on:** 13 Dec 2014, 06:07 pm »

Very nice.

Outofthewoods · « **Reply #28 on:** 17 Jan 2015, 06:14 am »

Quote from: HAL on 5 Dec 2014, 09:12 pm

Hi Ruben,
Ok put me in for a pair of the 3-8" driver kits when they are ready!

Shipping soon.

Ruben

HAL · « **Reply #29 on:** 17 Jan 2015, 02:11 pm »

Ruben,
Excellent!

rollo · « **Reply #30 on:** 17 Jan 2015, 02:22 pm »

Way to go Rueben. Your excellent work will entice many more to make the plunge. Got me thinking now.

charles

mlundy57 · « **Reply #31 on:** 17 Jan 2015, 03:40 pm »

How tall are those?

nrenter · « **Reply #32 on:** 17 Jan 2015, 03:41 pm »

Mount a wedgie on top of that (maybe on a post that rotates) and you'd have something special.

Captainhemo · « **Reply #33 on:** 17 Jan 2015, 05:12 pm »

Quote from: mlundy57 on 17 Jan 2015, 03:40 pm

How tall are those?

I was wonderin gthe same thing, I'm guess it must be very clsoe to the height of a dual 12", possibly a shade taller depending on base/top thickness. My guess is based on a ('x9" cavity for the 8" wooders and 3/4" for the 2 braces. but maybe it's a little less ? Even if the driver cavities were 3.5x3.5 you'd still have 27" before to/bottom plates

How close is that Ruben ?

-jay

2bigears · « **Reply #34 on:** 17 Jan 2015, 05:20 pm »

holy moly ,,,, nice ,,very nice. just the other day I brought my MAG 3.6's in the man cave to re-test. lacked punch. of course. but mids were great.
I then brought in 1 of my Super-V's to back up.... just using the bottom end ,,,, well my goodness ,, I an pretty dam happy you might say .. holy moly once more !!!!!
will move in the other V and try multiple subs with the Maggies,,,,

this is some good bass,,

2bigears · « **Reply #35 on:** 17 Jan 2015, 05:22 pm »

Super V's are 28" to top of bass structure ..... your right ..

InfernoSTi · « **Reply #36 on:** 17 Jan 2015, 06:08 pm »

Just to chime in on the "will OB bass work in a small room" question. I used to have a very small room such as your room (it was a "study" and was smaller than a small bedroom). OB bass is perfect because it doesn't load the room in the same way a sealed/ported subs do. Make sure they are treated as "directional" though...they should face you the same way your main speakers face you. Here is a detailed explanation:

http://www.linkwitzlab.com/rooms.htm

Quote

Not only is its bass output in proportion to the music, because room resonance contribution is greatly reduced, but also the character of the bass now sounds more like that from real musical instruments. My hypothesis is that three effects combine to produce the greater bass clarity:

1 - An open baffle, dipole speaker has a figure-of-eight radiation pattern and therefore excites fewer room modes.
2 - Its total radiated power is 4.8 dB less than that of a monopole for the same on-axis SPL. Thus the strength of the excited modes is less.
3 - A 4.8 dB difference in SPL at low frequencies is quite significant, due to the bunching of the equal loudness contours at low frequencies, and corresponds to a 10 dB difference in loudness at 1 kHz.

Thus, bass reproduced by a dipole would be less masked by the room, since a dipole excites fewer modes, and to a lesser degree, and since the perceived difference between direct sound and room contribution is magnified by a psychoacoustic effect.

The off-axis radiation behavior of a speaker determines the degree to which speaker placement and room acoustics degrade the accuracy of the perceived sound.

This means they should be great for a small room, all else the same...

John

2bigears · « **Reply #37 on:** 17 Jan 2015, 07:45 pm »

thanks for that info John,,,, pointed at the listener like a reg speaker was unknown to me.... will try..
typical dual Has one sub point back and one front,, so if you want full sound,, both should point front ????

InfernoSTi · « **Reply #38 on:** 18 Jan 2015, 12:23 am »

We may be saying different things. Just orient them front/back, not side/side so they face you rather than the side wall is all I was meaning.

The idea about front/back facing driver placement still applies so they would be push-pull. Since they are open back, they still move air out the back of the driver. The question is to decide if you want them all moving forward at the same time or one moving forward while the other moves backward. This is typical with a double H-Frame. With three, that is odd (literally)...

http://www.hifizine.com/2012/12/subwoofer-origami/

I also wanted to say these kits look really nice. I suspect they are outstanding...

bdp24 · « **Reply #39 on:** 18 Jan 2015, 04:00 am »

Quote from: 2bigears on 17 Jan 2015, 07:45 pm

thanks for that info John,,,, pointed at the listener like a reg speaker was unknown to me.... will try..
typical dual Has one sub point back and one front,, so if you want full sound,, both should point front ????

You can mount both drivers facing the same direction if you wish, wired identically. Or you can mount one facing forward and the other to the rear, wired in opposite polarity. Either way, both drivers move in the same direction (towards or away from you; if mounted in opposite directions one from the front of it's cone, the other from it's rear) to the same signal. What you DON'T want to do is mount them in opposite directions wired identically---the output of the pair (180 degrees apart) would then cancel out each other. +1 and -1 = 0.