[kingdeezie]

So I just ordered 9 sheets of No Rez from Danny to line the inside of my LS-6's.

Anyone out there in audio circle land that has retrofitted LSs, or any speaker for that matter with No Rez, that could offer some helpful insight or pointers.

I am an extreme DIY newbie, so any tips would be helpful; pictures of surgery even better!

Thanks in advance guys and gals.

[Hugh]

KD,

It's about time.

Do you have anything to cut it with?

So your LS6s don't have No-Rez?

[kingdeezie]

Hugh,

Hey man, how have you been?

No, I do not think so. They are AV123 cabinets, and were taken on the run from the company while they were on the cusp of sinking.

I doubt they put No Rez in them. I've put a lot of money into a new external crossover, room acoustics, and equipment, I've been too chicken sh*t to attempt putting the No Rez into the speaker.

I don't know what I am going to cut it with.

I live in a small home with no working space, meaning I have no garage or accompanying power tools.

I do have strong hands though, so I was thinking maybe a really sharp giant pair or shears from Home Depot or something like that?

I don't know exactly how and where all the pieces go, but I am assuming I am going to have to do a lot of cutting.

Have you done this hugh?

[S Clark]

So I just ordered 9 sheets of No Rez from Danny to line the inside of my LS-6's.

Anyone out there in audio circle land that has retrofitted LSs, or any speaker for that matter with No Rez, that could offer some helpful insight or pointers.

I am an extreme DIY newbie, so any tips would be helpful; pictures of surgery even better!

Thanks in advance guys and gals.

I added No Rez  to my LS9's. I had bought one of the "B"stock cabinets from AV123 just before they went under.   They had sprayed something inside the cabinet (or overspray probably) that made the No Rez not stick.  I had to go through and stick it with silicon caulking... a big PITA.  I'd take a pint of thinner and wipe the inside of you cabinet THOROUGHLY to insure a good stick.
Other than that, cutting the stuff is easy with most types of saws. Just head to Home Depot/Harbor Freight and buy a cheap hand saw <$10  I've used shears- they work, but a saw is better.

[ebag4]

I use a table saw but I have read that others use an electric carving knife.

Best,
Ed

[kingdeezie]

I hope this is not the case!

That will make this whole process a huge PITA.

The speakers are assembled, and I don't think I have the skills to de-solder everything, and then re-solder it back together.

I don't know what the hell they would have sprayed inside, but I am hoping that they didn't do this to mine, if so, I am going to be climbing a mountain above my abilities.

Thanks for the heads up though. 

[corndog71]

I just used scissors.  It's hard on the hands but it can be done.  I've also used a box cutter but that can be tricky.

With 9 sheets to cut you probably want to find something powered to do it.

Don't worry about your lack of skills.  Just take your time.  Don't rush it.  We were all newbies at DIY at one point.  The best way to get skills is to jump in and do what you gotta do. 

If you need help, it's here for you.

[jparkhur]

table saw...   like butter....

[Hugh]

KD,

If I remember correctly, they put in some type of asphalt layer (instead of No-Rez) at the very end of their business life.

Have you tried to open just one woofer's hole and take a peek inside to see what you got?
If it's the asphalt then I don't think you should even mess with it and leave it alone.

[Hugh]

Agreed

table saw...   like butter....

[HT cOz]

Cheep Harbor Frieght tool worked great for the No Rez and paper backed veneer.  Get ear plugs though...

[S Clark]

I hope this is not the case!...
That will make this whole process a huge PITA.

Yep, it definitely was. But what are you gonna do. You've bought a top flight speaker, so you have to make it right.  Mine were empty cabinets, and I didn't discover that the No Rez was falling off until the second day.  Some pieces would fall, others would stick, some would fall after several days.  I'd cut a few test pieces, and stick them at the top and maybe a couple of more spots, and walk away for a couple of days.  If they are still there, go on as planned.  If they show signs of letting go, wipe the cabinets with thinner (not inside the house!).

[kingdeezie]

Where does the No Rez go inside of the cabinet?

I am assuming you don't want the No Rez on any of the bracing or anything like that correct? These braces don't resonant?

Do you just put No Rez on the top of the cabinet, on the bottom of the cabinet, and on sides? Or does some go on the back of the cabinet as well?

Anyone got pictures of where they put all of their No Rez in their LSs?

[S Clark]

Most important area is the rear baffle, sides next, then top and bottom.  Braces don't need it.

Don't for get to add fiberglass or spun poly in the area from the back baffle up to the forward most lip of the port tubes.  If you use fiberglass (cheap and very good), I'd put it toward the back and use 2-3" of poly fill toward the front, effectively sealing the fiberglass particles from escaping through the port tubes. Does the tweeter cabinet area have acoustic fiber in it? If not, add some loosely in there as well. I know that I've spoken to Danny about this, but can't remember if it is on his web site anywhere.

[keenween]

i upgraded a pair of 450s with it...i think i used a box cutter or scissors, but it took some labor. might want to check with danny on additional adhesive. in my retrofit, it was a bit of a pain to apply pressure and be sure to get a good application.

good luck!

[Outofthewoods]

Deezie,

If you'd rather not have to deal with sizing the NoRez yourself I'd be happy to cut it for ya.

You could even have Danny ship it directly to me to save time and an extra shipping charge.

Let me know!

Ruben

[kingdeezie]

Deezie,

If you'd rather not have to deal with sizing the NoRez yourself I'd be happy to cut it for ya.

You could even have Danny ship it directly to me to save time and an extra shipping charge.

Let me know!

Ruben

Ruben, thanks for the awesome out reach. 

I think I am going to nut up and try to do this on my own though; for better or worse.

Most important area is the rear baffle, sides next, then top and bottom.  Braces don't need it.

Don't for get to add fiberglass or spun poly in the area from the back baffle up to the forward most lip of the port tubes.  If you use fiberglass (cheap and very good), I'd put it toward the back and use 2-3" of poly fill toward the front, effectively sealing the fiberglass particles from escaping through the port tubes. Does the tweeter cabinet area have acoustic fiber in it? If not, add some loosely in there as well. I know that I've spoken to Danny about this, but can't remember if it is on his web site anywhere.

The polyfill is an interesting topic. What effect does the polyfill have?

[Hugh]

KD,

For you.

First thing first though, if yours have the asphalt lining then it's going to be a problem, I think, since you'll need to remove it prior to apply the No-Rez.

This is of course with the assumption you can't apply No-Rez on top of that lining.

[Outofthewoods]

Ruben, thanks for the awesome out reach. 

You bet!

I think I am going to nut up and try to do this on my own though; for better or worse.

Best,

Ruben

[persisting1]

I've cut no rez with sharp scissors.  Your hands will hate you if you try to attempt this with the LS6.