Want to build speaker monitors

JohnR · « **Reply #20 on:** 1 Jun 2011, 11:54 pm »

Quote from: planet10 on 1 Jun 2011, 08:21 pm

Jared,

Just build a 1-way and avoid that issue. Hard to beat some of the most recent really good ones without spending illy money.

dave

+1. A good way to get started.

face · « **Reply #21 on:** 6 Jun 2011, 01:35 pm »

If you purchase a kit or design from Madisound, they can assemble the crossovers for you.

https://www.madisound.com/store/index.php?cPath=35

https://www.madisound.com/services/leap.php

S Clark · « **Reply #22 on:** 6 Jun 2011, 02:03 pm »

Quote from: face on 6 Jun 2011, 01:35 pm

If you purchase a kit or design from Madisound, they can assemble the crossovers for you.

https://www.madisound.com/store/index.php?cPath=35

https://www.madisound.com/services/leap.php

Early in my speaker building, I bought a Madisound program generated crossover. It was poorly done as there were phase cancellations and additions that it hadn't accounted for. They may do a better job with their kits, but a Leap crossover without measuring in the box that you build is a shot in the dark.

face · « **Reply #23 on:** 6 Jun 2011, 07:46 pm »

I also had them design a 3 way a couple of years ago, my results weren't as bad as yours, but it wasn't perfect either. As you mention, it's expected from measurements not taken from your box.

Their kits are another story, they're designed and tested by them or a third party and generally measure and sound very good.

eclein · « **Reply #24 on:** 6 Jun 2011, 09:17 pm »

I have heard that the Madisound kits with prebuilt crossovers are the way to go, I intend someday soon I hope to build my first in my apartment with no tools and I can do just that with this kit from Madisound:
https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=35_420&products_id=8503

All I'll need is to find someone on here which won't be hard at all I don't think to cut the baffles for me on some Parts Express prebuilt cabinets at $100 each so the whole thing will cost roughly $500ish and I think A) It will be my creation/co-ordinated management build ...LOL and B) It will sound good to me because I made it....LOL....I want to try Ribbon tweets. and I can't solder - did when I was younger but can't now with my nerve thing going on. So this is perfect for me and they have a bunch of other kits that may work better for ya, higher and lower in price....check it out....

S Clark · « **Reply #25 on:** 6 Jun 2011, 09:24 pm »

This looks like Madisound's version of Danny R's Neo2x, but with a metal woofer. For sure, the price is reasonable.
Ed, if you need baffles cut, I'd be happy to help out. Send me a PM.

Scott

eclein · « **Reply #26 on:** 7 Jun 2011, 01:11 am »

Cool thanks Scott I'll let you know...
That Fountek Ribbon is used in alot of speakers.... someday I'll build that kit.
I think I'd use the temp baffle on the finished kit so if I want to use the cabinets for another build, maybe the N2X's, I could do that as the baffles can be purchased separately. I don't know if you've seen the PE cabinets but they are pretty sharp considering they are mass made and all....

The OP hopefully see's that there are a ton of options once you start to look at this stuff closer, the baffle thing alone allows reuse of the cabs for as many projects as you want. You can do some of these without soldering-my moment of clarity!!! LOL...
I love options!!!

S Clark · « **Reply #27 on:** 7 Jun 2011, 02:01 am »

Quote from: eclein on 7 Jun 2011, 01:11 am

The OP hopefully see's that there are a ton of options once you start to look at this stuff closer, the baffle thing alone allows reuse of the cabs for as many projects as you want. You can do some of these without soldering-my moment of clarity!!! LOL...
I love options!!!

It's not the best solution, but you can put your crossover together with wire nuts (I recommend it for my students). Better still would be to buy a crimper and crimp a copper sleeve over the connections. Both offer non-solder ways of building a crossover.

face · « **Reply #28 on:** 7 Jun 2011, 02:19 am »

Using a copper sleeve and crimping is a good suggestion for those who can't solder.

JohnR · « **Reply #29 on:** 7 Jun 2011, 02:24 am »

"Can't"?

Seems to me that a crossover is a good place to learn how to solder - large parts.

sts9fan · « **Reply #30 on:** 7 Jun 2011, 02:30 am »

Honestly soldering is not that hard.

face · « **Reply #31 on:** 7 Jun 2011, 06:54 pm »

Quote from: sts9fan on 7 Jun 2011, 02:30 am

Honestly soldering is not that hard.

The biggest problem newbs usually run into is that they buy a cheap iron and wonder why components are starting to burn. Start out with a temperature controlled Weller, set it to high and work fast, and you'll have some nice joints.

eclein · « **Reply #32 on:** 7 Jun 2011, 07:43 pm »

I'm not opposed to soldering and I would and still may but the Neuropothy is affecting my hands now alot and its hard, very hard to make finite adjustments in position with an iron. When I wasn't dealing with the Neuropathy it would be fine and great for me to solder and learn about crossovers etc..but the way my hands react now or don't react is the thing, I could burn myself and not know it with an iron, I can't even shave with a blade anymore and I'm not bitchin about it, its just what I got goin on right now so I'll get prebuilt crossovers and roughly connect everything to see to it that it all works and then work on some local AC members out here my way and get stuff soldered if need be. Its all good...less crap I gotta buy--LOL..there is always an upside!! LOL...

Bob in St. Louis · « **Reply #33 on:** 8 Jun 2011, 01:10 am »

Quote from: face on 7 Jun 2011, 02:19 am

Using a copper sleeve and crimping is a good suggestion for those who can't solder.

Ditto that.
"Cold solder" (crimping) is used without fail in many applications.

plus, I'm sure there are kits that have different levels of experience levels needed to complete the project.

Also, if you've got your heart set on a particular design but there's one aspect of it you're "roadblocked" on, I guarantee there's an AC fellow who is ready, willing, and able to help you over that hurdle for very little (or no) compensation.

Bob

eclein · « **Reply #34 on:** 8 Jun 2011, 01:22 am »

Bob if its me in need of a hand you and a few other guys are getting asked first....so RUN!!!!!!....LOL...ipad2 for me now that itunes is going away soon, I can deal with an ipad2 and no itunes so the speaker project is on hold for several more months I think...its fun to dream and its also great to know there are folks in your corner should you need a hand..thanks and thanks to the Avnerdguy too, and everyone else...AC is a good place.

But for the OP see how many options you have, so dream it up baby!!!!

Bob in St. Louis · « **Reply #35 on:** 8 Jun 2011, 01:25 am »

Quote from: eclein on 8 Jun 2011, 01:22 am

see how many options you have, so dream it up baby!!!!

That's it right there. Start high and work from there. Don't make it difficult, just make it.

Bob

django11 · « **Reply #36 on:** 8 Jun 2011, 02:51 am »

Danny had these kits he was blowing out. Don't know what is left. http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=90911.0

Speedskater · « **Reply #37 on:** 8 Jun 2011, 10:48 am »

Ditto that.
"Cold solder" (crimping) is used without fail in many applications.

More correctly it's "Cold Welding".

Bob in St. Louis · « **Reply #38 on:** 8 Jun 2011, 12:13 pm »

Quote from: Speedskater on 8 Jun 2011, 10:48 am

Ditto that.
"Cold solder" (crimping) is used without fail in many applications.

More correctly it's "Cold Welding".

AH yes...I stand corrected. Thanks Skater.

Speedskater · « **Reply #39 on:** 9 Jun 2011, 12:02 pm »

From my 1970 "Modern Dictionary of Electronics".

"cold-weld" - A joint between two metals (without an intermediate material) produced by the application of pressure only.