[sarora9]

Trying to open up my Audio-gd Digital Interface. http://www.audio-gd.com/Pro/dac/USBface/Digital1EN.htm

The screws on top are screwed on real tight and I managed to strip the head of one of them. It is stuck in there.
Any ideas how to remove it?

I tried the rubberband trick already.

Thanks for any ideas. I have a ratchet screwdriver (manual) with various bits.

[sarora9]

ps It is a philips head screw with a flat screwhead (kind of like a screw head + washer).

[Phil A]

Drilling with a thin drill bit carefully is one option

[TrungT]

May try this:
http://www.amazon.com/Alden-8530P-Grabit-Damaged-Remover/dp/B000ETLK7O

[Phil A]

May try this:
http://www.amazon.com/Alden-8530P-Grabit-Damaged-Remover/dp/B000ETLK7O

That looks like a neat tool assuming it works.

[Phil A]

Here's what Harbor Freight sells (one of my favorite places to get tools) - http://www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-screw-remover-and-quick-change-bit-set-95530.html

I may have to look for it next time I visit one of their stores.  I have not been to one in a bit. 

[Berndt]

If you can try to grab the od of the fastener with a pliers and start it loose.
Otw, if you notice the head of the screw is going south put a dab of lapping compound on the driver fastener interface and if the casework is not too fragile lightly tap the head of the screwdriver into the fastener. The tapping breaks the fastener loose and gives you a tighter fit in the interface with the screwdriver tip.

[srb]

After you get the screw(s) extracted, I've usually always been able to find nicer hex socket head replacement machine screws from one of the larger Ace hardware stores in English or Metric, Button or Cap Head and Stainless Steel or Black Oxide.
 
Steve
 

 
 
 
 

[thunderbrick]

In some cases I've had luck taking a very fine jeweler's file and filing a slot all the way across the head, then using a quality flat head screwdriver in a #0 or #1 size.

I think more screws are fouled up by using cheap or worn out tools, and I have to force myself to throw away such items.   

[richidoo]

If the screws in this image match your unit, you should be able to remove the stripped screw with pliers, use locking type if it is really stubborn. Use blue masking tape around the screw to protect the box finish. The extractors Trung mentioned work good too. You can ask Audio GD to send you some new screws if you want stock perfection, or just replace them all with nice screws made of real steel that won't disintegrate, as srb suggests.

[sarora9]

My unit has different screws from this picture.

The stripped screw is still stuck, but I figured out that by removing more screws on the bottom I can remove the entire shell (including the front plate) and that allowed me access to the inside.

I'll try the other tricks in future. Thanks for all the leads.

[Ericus Rex]

If the screws in this image match your unit, you should be able to remove the stripped screw with pliers, use locking type if it is really stubborn. Use blue masking tape around the screw to protect the box finish. The extractors Trung mentioned work good too. You can ask Audio GD to send you some new screws if you want stock perfection, or just replace them all with nice screws made of real steel that won't disintegrate, as srb suggests.

Yep, Vice-Grip locking pliers real, REAL tight should get it off.  If not, find someone with a milling machine and mill a slot across it, thus turning it into a normal flat head screw.

[Bob in St. Louis]

I think more screws are fouled up by using cheap or worn out tools, and I have to force myself to throw away such items.   

VERY wise words.

Bob

[mdfoy]

I had the same problem.  I had a set of allen keys on hand, and ended up using one of them to extract the bad screw. This thread was a good reminder, I need to replace all of the screws with hex screws. 

[mgalusha]

A method I've used is to cut a slot with a Dremel using a cut off wheel. This even works on flat head screws that are flush with the case. Since the wheel is round you can usually get enough of a slot without touching the case to get a good flat blade screw driver in there.

Heat is also your friend, especially on aluminum chassis. Hit it with a heat gun or hair dryer for 5 minutes and see if that will help. It often does since the aluminum expands much more than the steel.

[Bob in St. Louis]

Heat is also your friend, especially on aluminum chassis. Hit it with a heat gun or hair dryer for 5 minutes and see if that will help. It often does since the aluminum expands much more than the steel.

After doing that, steal one of your childrens crayons, and melt a bit of it down into the threads.
The wax will serve as a lubricant.

Bob

p.s. That trick works great for rusted automotive fasteners too.

[mgalusha]

After doing that, steal one of your childrens crayons, and melt a bit of it down into the threads.

I'm guessing many of us have children grown and gone, thankfully we have our own crayons now.. keep 'em next to the drool bib. 

[SteveFord]

To keep it from happening in the future, put a little bit on anti-seize on the threads before you put the screws back in.
NEVER put stainless in stainless together without anti-seize.

[Nels Ferre]

That looks like a neat tool assuming it works.

It works. I bought a similar set from Sears years ago.

[Bob in St. Louis]

I'm guessing many of us have children grown and gone, thankfully we have our own crayons now.. keep 'em next to the drool bib. 

Next time you go to a restaraunt, ask for a kiddie menu. They usually give crayons along with it. 
Sorry Mike, I couldn't resist.

Bob