[Outofthewoods]

The owner is going to finish them himself.

Ruben

[Guy 13]

Hi Ruben and all Audio Circle members.
I wanted to order from you a N3TL flat pack, but since I don't have much tools, time, skill and patience, I am now considering ordering from you a completly assembled unit with pre-drilled driver's holes but without the drivers, since I already have them.

My last concern is the finish, I don't want the piano shinny finish, what can you offer me for a finish that's not more expensive than a six pack of beer?
(LOL)
(Even if I never drink beer.)
 
What about the pell back stick on vinyl stuff or a surface that is ready for some kind of varnish or stain... ? ? ?
 
I am looking for something super easy to apply, remember, I have no skill, no patience, no time, etc...

Waiting for your suggestion(s) and maybe a revised price on the N3TL, if you are not too busy of course, I don't want to take too much of the time of a famous wood artist.
Guy 13

[chip]

Ruben,

Thanks for the pics. Can't wait to get them. I still need to build the x overs for them.

[Ron]

Ruben,

 The N3S center and AV-1RS look great as do all the speakers you build. You are a master cabinet maker and the pride you take in your work certainly shows. Hope you continue to do very well with your business which I am sure you will.

Ron

[Outofthewoods]

Hi Ruben and all Audio Circle members.
I wanted to order from you a N3TL flat pack, but since I don't have much tools, time, skill and patience, I am now considering ordering from you a completly assembled unit with pre-drilled driver's holes but without the drivers, since I already have them.

My last concern is the finish, I don't want the piano shinny finish, what can you offer me for a finish that's not more expensive than a six pack of beer?
(LOL)
(Even if I never drink beer.)
 
What about the pell back stick on vinyl stuff or a surface that is ready for some kind of varnish or stain... ? ? ?
 
I am looking for something super easy to apply, remember, I have no skill, no patience, no time, etc...

Waiting for your suggestion(s) and maybe a revised price on the N3TL, if you are not too busy of course, I don't want to take too much of the time of a famous wood artist.
Guy 13

Hello Guy,

Responding via email.

Thanks!

Ruben

[Outofthewoods]

Ruben,

 The N3S center and AV-1RS look great as do all the speakers you build. You are a master cabinet maker and the pride you take in your work certainly shows. Hope you continue to do very well with your business which I am sure you will.

Ron

Hi Ron,

The compliments and well wishes are very much appreciated.

The future is looking very promising!

Ruben

[skeeter99]

Hi Ron,

The compliments and well wishes are very much appreciated.

The future is looking very promising!

Ruben

They look great Ruben! A certain little bird gave me a sneak peek so I had already seen them but still good to see more pics nonetheless Well done as always!!

[chip]

So Ruben sent some samples of the veneer and I finally did some testing today -

1 coat Brown Mahogany



1 coat Medium Brown



1 coat Java



Left to right - Watco Medium Walnut, Dark Walnut, Black Walnut all one coat.

[skeeter99]

#2 almost looks teak-ish but I think I like #3 the best, very dark 

[chip]

I will label them a little later - want to see what people give for opinions. These are just stains so no Poly or anything on them for testing.

[Peter J]

The middle one in the last photo would be my choice. One thing I've found with walnut is that it tends to look kinda cold. Dyes (or stains) that trend toward yellow or orange will add some warmth. I've also toned with shellac prior to topcoat to bring out the warmer highlights.

[chip]

This may be a silly question but what is the reason for shellac?

So say one was to go that route -
1) coat with Oil
2) Coat with Shellac
3) Coat with topcoat of Wipe-On Polyurethane

[Peter J]

 Natural shellac lends an amber cast, or one can get orange shellac, which is more, well, orange Either will bring up warmth in walnut. You might try (tinted) shellac instead of stain to color, but I'm probably showing my own bias. I'm not a fan of pigmented stain for stuff like this because it tends to obsure grain, where dyes tend to enhance it. Many oils do this, too.

Your finishing schedule would work. Depends on what you want them to look like. If you're going for a more natural wood look, you could finish with tung oil. If you like the reflective qualities of a built-up film finish that you can wipe on, Waterlox is a nice way to go. If you're going for a glassy finish, filling the grain will get you there quicker.

  I think of polyurethane as more of a durability finish, which really isn't necessary for speakers. It has a plasticy quality I'm not fond of. Lacquer is still one of the nicest looking film type finishes in my book.

I remember something I read years ago about spending all the time and money on the beautiful woods and craftmanship, and then settling for ho-hum finishing products we get from the hardware store. That's worth considering, IMHO.

[Nick77]

I like the bottom right, nice rich darker tone. But dont forget the topcoat will also effect the final outcome of the color, test accordingly.

[chip]

I like the following - I believe this is a black walnut veneer with hand rubbed danish oil.

[chip]

  I think of polyurethane as more of a durability finish, which really isn't necessary for speakers. It has a plasticy quality I'm not fond of. Lacquer is still one of the nicest looking film type finishes in my book.

What is the best if you don't want the dull finish I am seeing from the dark walnut as that is the one I am liking as of right now.

[cujobob]

The middle one in the last photo would be my choice. One thing I've found with walnut is that it tends to look kinda cold. Dyes (or stains) that trend toward yellow or orange will add some warmth. I've also toned with shellac prior to topcoat to bring out the warmer highlights.

Agree with the middle in the last photo looking the best IMHO.

[srb]

You may have found what I (and the local Woodworkers Source) have found, that the Danish oils often tend to bring out the details and figuring of the grain better than stain.  For many years I used Watco by itself, but eventually came to the conclusion that the finish was too dull.
 
For the past several years though, I have continued to use Watco followed by three coats of an easy-to-use wipe-on polyurethane.  I use a medium to high gloss finish, smoothing between coats with synthetic "steel" wool pads and knocking down the gloss of the final coat to the desired semi-gloss or satin finish with a 0000 synthetic pad followed with an even finer (most often white) synthetic polishing pad.
 
The results for me have been consistently spectacular and oh-so-smooth!
 
Steve

[Peter J]

Hmmmm, best is pretty subjective and the subject of many a debate. This may be helpful, lots of good info here:

http://www.homesteadfinishingproducts.com/htdocs/ChoosingFinish.htm

I'm going out on a limb here, but briefly, if I were advising on how to color walnut darker than natrual and topcoat by hand with off the shelf products, I'd recommend:

Behlen NGR Solar-Lux dye/stain, (solvent base, not water base)  here's PDF catalog:

http://www.hbehlen.com/Behlen_Catalog.pdf

Waterlox topcoat:

http://www.waterlox.com/products-item/waterlox-original-satin-tung-oil-wood-floor-finish.aspx


If you take your time and follow the manufacturer's directions, the products above can provide a beautiful looking and durable finish that rivals or exceeds a professional finish. The advantage you have as a DIY is time...its just as important as the material. Generally, the keys to obtaining a finish you'll be proud of are; Don't rush, read instructions.

 Working in a relatively dust free environment, (like not outside when the wind is blowing), multiple finish coats, fine sanding between coats, and in your case, not sanding through applied stain should get you something that makes the most of a lovely wood like walnut.

[woofersus]

I like the java personally. (third picture)