0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic. Read 13762 times.
Ha.... You guys should find this interesting.MILLS resistor upgrade ONLYSound was brighter, more defined, but had that high pitch dog whistle sound that was fatiging to listen to over the long haul. I'm not sure but I believe they color the music in the high end. Using a bypass resistor just barely made it tolerable, a couple more notches down would have been perfect. Even other discernable listeners noticed the difference. Certain subtle sounds are more pronounced and cleaner.SONICAP only with ceramic resistorsMELLOW sound, non fatiging, much easier to listen to then with mills resistors. The subtle issues with the tweeter reproducing certain sounds was also gone with the sonicap. I believe the sonicap tended to further sharpen the sound that was passed to it from the MILLS resistor causing it to be unbearable. With the electrolytic feeding the ceramic resistor and the sonicap everything was nice, tame and under control in the high end but more defined and cleaner. With the bypass, almost no difference.. then again I still have the first electrolytic in place which is probably taming the highs like I suspect it does for these titanium dome tweets.Might try out the 2 sonicaps in the near future. This weekend I am out though so I won't have any news to report until monday or wednesday.
Hey Faststang,I recently did some cap comparisons with Clarity Cap ESA series.I found them to throw a huge, detailed soundstage but with a very warm overall effect. Too warm for my AV123 speakers. I was thinking they would probably work better in a speaker with metal tweeters. They might just be what you're looking for. I have to warn you they're even bigger than sonicaps. I also found Mills resistors seemed to work well with them in my speakers.Might be worth checking out.
Hi Fast,Thanks for your experiment. I think one of the challenges is if the excessive perceived highs is caused by the part(s), tweeter, electronics etc. For instance the new parts could be accurate while the tweeter could be bright; the new parts revealing the tweeters real characteristics. If this is the case, the OEM parts could have been chosen to compensate for the bright tweeter (but be inferior in other ways such as inner detail etc). A cool test would be to place a 470 ohm resistor directly across the tweeter and see if there is a noticeable sonic difference.Cheers.
Looking for a trade? I need something to warm up the tweets a bit but it doesn't look like these are going to cut it.I agree that the tweeter is naturally bright and that the components will have a tendancy to accentuate it's natural characteristics. This is partially why I'm curious as to how my Mirage FRX700's would sound with the same components. It's too bad the values I have aren't even close to the spec I need. After blowing $200 with sub par results I am somewhat hesitant to dive in again. I did look at the FRX crossovers and they use poly caps stock.As for the 470ohm resistor, I'm curious what would be the result of that. Are you looking to reduce the impedance of the driver network or attenuate the signal to the tweeter?
I would also be hesitant to spend more money on tweeks under these circumstances. The 470 ohm resistor should 1) take some power away from the tweeter, but more taken as the frequency increases. Not much but over a wide frequency range. It changes the tonal balance.2) help reduce resonances tweeters always have.It is amazing how little it takes to change the sound. I am using a 2.4k resistor across my midrange driver. Seems quite high to use with a "4" ohm midrange, but it does change the perceived sound.470 ohms should make more difference, hopefully easier to identify. Connect it right across the tweeter, either the driver or at the crossover board, whichever is easier.Cheers.
