Stand-Ins for Speaker Stands

Mass. Wine Guy · « **on:** 26 Jan 2011, 01:16 am »

In the spirit of this circle, would two thick squares of flat granite be a reasonable substitute for speaker stands? At least temporarily? One speaker would be on a tall wooden stool; the other on a solid cherry wood bureau.

I once saw a story online about using cement bird baths for speaker stands.

Thank you.

krikor · « **Reply #1 on:** 26 Jan 2011, 01:49 am »

I use other speakers... always have an extra pair or two, with or without drivers, sitting around

coolsax · « **Reply #2 on:** 26 Jan 2011, 03:29 am »

I'm currently using my Polk LS 50s to hold up my Ascend Sierra's but i'm looking to get a decent stand soon..

Vapor Audio · « **Reply #3 on:** 26 Jan 2011, 03:58 am »

You guys realize that a stand with a large flat frontal area, like another speaker, will throw off the tonal balance ... don't you? By doing that you're essentially making the front baffle of the speaker much larger, and reducing baffle step losses, which will throw off the balance from about 500hz down.

Tone Depth · « **Reply #4 on:** 26 Jan 2011, 04:09 am »

I use 8x8x16 concrete block, with the two holes facing forward, as speaker stands. Double stacked when on the floor, single stacked when on the raised hearth. Haven't covered them yet with cloth, but intend to.

lonewolfny42 · « **Reply #5 on:** 26 Jan 2011, 06:43 am »

A few links....cheap and cheerful....

http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/stubby_e.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ds3IGxI8Kes

http://www.velvetron.com/blog/reviews_and_guides/diy-cinder-block-speaker-stands/

http://onefallinghope.com/2009/02/03/diy-speaker-stands

http://www.audiotweaks.com/diy2/robs_stands/page01.htm

http://www.cnet.com.au/diy-tips-for-home-theatre-projects_p2-240054843.htm

timind · « **Reply #6 on:** 26 Jan 2011, 12:14 pm »

If you want Cheap and cheerful look at these. http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=PGLS02
These may be cheaper than cement blocks.

Letitroll98 · « **Reply #7 on:** 26 Jan 2011, 03:15 pm »

Quote from: timind on 26 Jan 2011, 12:14 pm

If you want Cheap and cheerful look at these. http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=PGLS02
These may be cheaper than cement blocks.

Good catch Tim, exactly what I was thinking while reading the thread. I keep wondering when they're going to stop the loss leader policy on the Pangea products at AA, both the stands and the power cables. I cannot image why anyone would consider any other option, even the faux marble birdbath bases are more expensive.

JLM · « **Reply #8 on:** 26 Jan 2011, 03:50 pm »

Quote from: timind on 26 Jan 2011, 12:14 pm

If you want Cheap and cheerful look at these. http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=PGLS02
These may be cheaper than cement blocks.

Looks top heavy (the speaker, not the girl - I like girls that are top heavy). But both could be tipsy (now I'm just dreaming).

Quiet Earth · « **Reply #9 on:** 26 Jan 2011, 05:37 pm »

Quote from: TurboFC3S on 26 Jan 2011, 03:58 am

a stand with a large flat frontal area, like another speaker, will throw off the tonal balance ... essentially making the front baffle of the speaker much larger, and reducing baffle step losses

Yeah. And you'd think that more speaker designers would take advantage of that fact, wouldn't you? Strange that they don't. I guess thin is in when it comes to speakers. Too bad.

coolsax · « **Reply #10 on:** 26 Jan 2011, 07:35 pm »

yeah I've been eyeing those stands from AA, just hadn't had a chance to take care of it as i'm trying to simplify my amp ( just ordered a Music Hall A15.2) and then I'll get my digital source (laptop with either nuforce UDAC2 or HRT Music Streamer II), then I'll probably go for a real stand.

Mass. Wine Guy · « **Reply #11 on:** 26 Jan 2011, 09:05 pm »

Has anyone actually seen or used those stands?

simoon · « **Reply #12 on:** 27 Jan 2011, 12:06 am »

Quote from: TurboFC3S on 26 Jan 2011, 03:58 am

You guys realize that a stand with a large flat frontal area, like another speaker, will throw off the tonal balance ... don't you? By doing that you're essentially making the front baffle of the speaker much larger, and reducing baffle step losses, which will throw off the balance from about 500hz down.

Not to mention the extra resonance created by having the speaker coupled to another box. If you don't think this adds audible coloration, think again.

Then, the entire situation is even made worse if there are still speakers in the cabinet being used as the stand.

Mass. Wine Guy · « **Reply #13 on:** 27 Jan 2011, 12:58 am »

Quote from: simoon on 27 Jan 2011, 12:06 am

Not to mention the extra resonance created by having the speaker coupled to another box.

Exactly why I was asking about granite slabs. Wouldn't they work pretty well?

hotmailjbc · « **Reply #14 on:** 27 Jan 2011, 01:13 am »

i have a pr of pangea stands and they are a steal at 30 bucks. filled with sand they are very stable and heavy. i have a pr of dcm monitors on them 10x12x8 with blu tac and there are no stability concerns. look great. i got the ones with the 3 posts. didn,t see any reason to pay extra for the ones with one post.

Letitroll98 · « **Reply #15 on:** 27 Jan 2011, 03:56 am »

Quote from: Mass. Wine Guy on 27 Jan 2011, 12:58 am

Exactly why I was asking about granite slabs. Wouldn't they work pretty well?

I assume you already have the granite slabs? If so of course they will work, as will simply putting the speakers on the bases you mentioned (a bureau and a stool I think). However the slabs may or may not make the bureau and stool better speaker stands as the best stands are fairly inert transmission lines to move vibrations into the resonance sink of the floor and building structure. Or really, really heavy ones can act as a sink in themselves, thus the concrete birdbath base idea. The point being there's no way to predict how your slabs will work as speaker stand bases, you just have to try them. I suggest a session with and without them, and pick whichever sounds best. But if you're asking if you should buy some granite slabs, no, buy the inexpensive Pangea stands, or make your own.

konut · « **Reply #16 on:** 27 Jan 2011, 04:37 am »

I have used cast concrete footings and path stones as speaker stands. Cheap AND rock solid. Covered with black cloth they didn't look half bad either.

JLM · « **Reply #17 on:** 27 Jan 2011, 12:17 pm »

Brian Cheney (VMPS) actually recommends a solid front on the stands used for his speakers.

krikor · « **Reply #18 on:** 27 Jan 2011, 02:07 pm »

Quote from: simoon on 27 Jan 2011, 12:06 am

Not to mention the extra resonance created by having the speaker coupled to another box. If you don't think this adds audible coloration, think again.

Then, the entire situation is even made worse if there are still speakers in the cabinet being used as the stand.

No doubt about it... wouldn't go long term that way. But as "Stand-Ins for Speaker Stands" an extra pair of cabs work OK as a stop-gap measure if you've got 'em laying around (and I've got far too many in the basement). Especially while trying to figure out the right height before purchasing.

That said, the factory stands/external xover for my VMPS 626r are exactly that... a pair of cabs. Of course, they are sealed, braced, no drivers and filled with sand bags. As mentioned above, Brian of VMPS recommends a solid front such as this, or the use of a baffle board or "beard" under the speaker with pillar stands. Of course, the midrange and tweeter levels on his speakers can be adjusted to get the tonal balance to your liking, but this approach may throw off the tonal balance on other speakers in a way that is undersireable and can't be remedied (at least easily).

Mass. Wine Guy · « **Reply #19 on:** 27 Jan 2011, 03:08 pm »

I have not purchased any granite or anything else at this point. Those Pangea stands certainly seem appealing.