Mye Stands

Minn Mark · « **on:** 7 Jan 2011, 03:30 pm »

I'm a 3.6 owner and did a prelimiary search in this Circle for a similar topic. I'm considering Mye stands. What's the overarching opinion in the Forum:

1) a great and necessary accessory?
2) an OK improvement but costly?
3) Don't bother, spend improvement dollars elsewhere?

Appreciate any feedback.

PS- I'm currently using 12 AWG cable (parts Exresss) bi-wired to a Van Alstine Insight 440H amp.

Thanks,

Mark

AVnerdguy · « **Reply #1 on:** 7 Jan 2011, 03:44 pm »

I have 1.7s and the Mye stands. IMO a definite yes. I noticed a better (tighter) bottom end but the best reason is the physical stability for mounting. Grant is a great person to work with as well. Excellent product (I think he could charge more and nobody would blink) and outstanding customer service. Well worth the investment.

gtb75 · « **Reply #2 on:** 9 Jan 2011, 05:18 am »

Very highly recommended... I've got a set on my 3.6's - made a huge difference across the board. Lots of good feedback here: http://www.myesound.com/Testimonials.html

The good news is the 3.7's use the same frame as the 3.6's (per Wendell at Magnepan), so I won't need to buy new stands if I decide to upgrade

TheChairGuy · « **Reply #3 on:** 9 Jan 2011, 02:37 pm »

Mark,

I was the first guy to get the Mye top-and-bottom sections for the MMG when I owned them.....that purchase was much more beneficial to improving the Maggies than a pricier outboard crossovers and removal of stock fuse and binding posts were.

Bracing them floppy panels seems to be the highest order of improvement for Maggies. As you run up the range, not the baffle thickness and heaviness increases on each model...so it seems something Magnepan figured out long ago.

John

andyr · « **Reply #4 on:** 10 Jan 2011, 03:14 am »

Quote from: Minn Mark on 7 Jan 2011, 03:30 pm

I'm a 3.6 owner and did a prelimiary search in this Circle for a similar topic. I'm considering Mye stands. What's the overarching opinion in the Forum:

1) a great and necessary accessory?
2) an OK improvement but costly?
3) Don't bother, spend improvement dollars elsewhere?

Appreciate any feedback.

PS- I'm currently using 12 AWG cable (parts Exresss) bi-wired to a Van Alstine Insight 440H amp.

Thanks,

Mark

IMO, Mye stands are the single best upgrade you can make to your Maggies. Being in Oz, I nearly ordered some 10 years ago for my IIIas, when Grant was just starting off, but the cost of shipping meant I could have some custom-built braced metal stands made up here for a bit less.

(Different and uglier ... but more effective!

)

And of course, assembling them is pretty simple (given Grant's instructions) so you don't have to be a "DIY maven" to cope!

Regards,

Andy

PS: Whilst Mye stands will improve your 3.6s, there are several other things you can do to give you even better sound, if you have taste for it. But these are nowhere near as simple to implement!

trout2 · « **Reply #5 on:** 13 Jan 2011, 04:42 pm »

Major improvement in the 3.6R's bass slam. Reduces smearing as well. Using rubber wheel casters (Home Depot) instead of spikes so that the speakers are easy to move around. Very solid product/service/ really worth the money.

Minn Mark · « **Reply #6 on:** 13 Jan 2011, 06:33 pm »

Thanks to all for the great feedback.

I have always used the 3.6 with the tweeters on the inside. Currently I have them about 8 ft apart, toe-in so the triangle formed by sight lines would cross in front of my listening position (a recliner) by about a foot or two(about 10-12 ft away; so sound from the mid-bass panels should reach me before the tweeters). They are about 40 inches from back wall and 2.5 ft from side walls. The wall behind me has a stairwell going up, and is about 6-7 ft behind my head. No special room treatments. Imaging is precise but very tight 'sweet spot', and the bass can sometimes be a bit 'tubby'-- a little thick sounding in the mid-bass, to my ears.

Any comments about tweeters on the outside or the geometry of my set-up? Always looking for good advice.

Thanks,

Mark

SteveFord · « **Reply #7 on:** 14 Jan 2011, 01:36 am »

There's a thread on ribbon placement here:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=87504.0

I've found that the further you can get the speakers away from the walls the better.

trout2 · « **Reply #8 on:** 14 Jan 2011, 03:46 pm »

Get your room measured for bass nodes etc.. You may have a boost in the 60-80 hz range (at your listening chair) if your bass is sounding tubby...My findings are that treating the room is one of the best ways to get better audio.

SteveFord · « **Reply #9 on:** 12 Mar 2011, 11:54 pm »

I finally built my own stands for my 3.6s today and it was worth the effort as the bass is much more pronounced and the sound itself is more focused without that monster panel moving around.
The improvement is NOT subtle.

Elizabeth · « **Reply #10 on:** 13 Mar 2011, 02:07 am »

The Mye stands are supposed to be the big improvement for bass in a Maggie.
Over on Audio Asylum, the planar forum plenty of folks and comments on them. The other thing that seems to be hot is re-placing the panels into a real wood frame.
I have 3.6s i bought a year ago, and the only thing i have thought i might do is the Mye stands.
I also have my Maggies with tweets in. 40" from back wall and only about 20" from sides. so they are wide apart. turned in form triangle at seated position. I'm happy with them like this.

krikor · « **Reply #11 on:** 13 Mar 2011, 09:39 pm »

Quote from: SteveFord on 12 Mar 2011, 11:54 pm

I finally built my own stands for my 3.6s today and it was worth the effort as the bass is much more pronounced and the sound itself is more focused without that monster panel moving around.
The improvement is NOT subtle.

What type of stand did you build? I've seen several different approaches on audio asylum and mug website. Been contemplating this for a long time, but just haven't gone through withnit yet.

SteveFord · « **Reply #12 on:** 13 Mar 2011, 10:17 pm »

I just went with two 2x2s attached to the top and down to a 3'x2' base so it forms a triangle.
It's ugly as sin so I might try the Mye stealth approach next.

Elizabeth · « **Reply #13 on:** 14 Mar 2011, 04:13 am »

A cheap and 'dirty' Mye stand would be to weld a "V" steel along under the current 't' shaped stands. with a hinge welded at back end. "V" shaped angled up to same spot with other part of hinge welded to bottom of brace part. Cut top of brace at correct angle, weld on flat bit with hole to screw in the frame.
So for cost of about 12 ft of angle iron, and a few welds, a pair of hinges, and some paint, you got a Mye stand on the cheap.
The "V" under the current foot could be extended back a few extra inches if desired.

pelliott321 · « **Reply #14 on:** 14 Mar 2011, 04:16 pm »

when I rebuilt my IIIa's I looked for the simplest and most stable solution. I have tiptoes at the bottom corners of the frame and a lead shopt filled pipe supporting the top. Not much more than a tripod and rock steady

SteveFord · « **Reply #15 on:** 16 Mar 2011, 09:38 am »

Where did you source the connectors for the top and bottom of the pole? That looks to be 1" black pipe?
I think I'll do something similar but will go with two rods in possibly an X configuration.

andyr · « **Reply #16 on:** 16 Mar 2011, 10:01 am »

Quote from: SteveFord on 16 Mar 2011, 09:38 am

Where did you source the connectors for the top and bottom of the pole? That looks to be 1" black pipe?
I think I'll do something similar but will go with two rods in possibly an X configuration.

Steve, I suggest 2 rods is not necessary if you do what Peter did ... which is to replace the stock MDF frame with a hardwood frame.

And just adding a diagonal brace (or two) to the back of the stock MDF frame is a waste of time, IMO.

Regards,

Andy

pelliott321 · « **Reply #17 on:** 16 Mar 2011, 02:31 pm »

I used 1 inch alum electrical conduit, plugged one end with 3-4 inch hardwood (red oak) dowel. I had to sand the dowel down a bit then hammered it in. Turned the pole around filled with lead shot, packed it tight by ramming it. Poured in WEST epoxy resin until it would not take any more. After the resin hardened I tapped (threaded) the (bottom) end and inserted a tiptoe. The other (top) end I drilled through the pipe and wood dowel to accept a bolt and nut to fasten it to a bracket I made out aluminum channel attached to the top center of the panel. I covered the pole with black heat shrink tubing, heated it for a tight fit. The pole is very dead.
I added three zinc donuts (used on prop shafts on motor boats) as weights at the bottom of the pole for added stability.
The above sounds like a lot of work but it really wasn't. Much simpler than building a metal or wood frame to hold the panel up. I believe I got great coupling to the floor. I may add a couple of zinc plates to the bottom of the panel for more mass. The panels really do not vibrate much at all unless I really turn it up.
I may do one other mod that AndyR suggested and that is to cut a slot (1/8 inch, width of a saw blade between the ribbon and the mid panel. This would run from about 6 inches from the top to 6 inches from the bottom. This would help decouple the ribbon some. Still trying to decide if this would be worth the trouble.

andyr · « **Reply #18 on:** 16 Mar 2011, 07:24 pm »

Quote from: pelliott321 on 16 Mar 2011, 02:31 pm

I may do one other mod that AndyR suggested and that is to cut a slot (1/8 inch, width of a saw blade between the ribbon and the mid panel. This would run from about 6 inches from the top to 6 inches from the bottom. This would help decouple the ribbon some. Still trying to decide if this would be worth the trouble.

Mate, now that I have the ribbon and mid in a separate frame to the bass frame (with my Frankenpans), I'm more convinced than before that this is a good thing.

So it would be better to build a separate frame for your ribbons - like benie, or hoshi (on Planar Asylum) has done - but, given this will be a major PITA for you, given you've already built hardwood frames, that sawcut will be a good idea ... although make it 2" from the top to 2" from the bottom.

Regards,

Andy

pelliott321 · « **Reply #19 on:** 20 Mar 2011, 02:52 pm »

Thanks Andy
Yea..... New frames will probably happen, espcially now that I have a second set of panels and ribbons. Its getting warmer here in Maryland and my unheated woodshop will be comming on line soon.
I saw your new xover spreadsheet on MUG. Amazing work, thanks for that.