[Ryan45872]

With them in phase and working together you get a smaller box, but the output levels of a single woofer.

With them out of phase the box size is double but you get twice the output.

Or you could put a divider in the box and give each its own 1.2 cubic foot air space.
Ryan

[doug s.]

To answer a few questions...

As mentioned already this is not a servo controlled system and does not perform in that class. However, it is not at servo price points either.

I am pretty sure the LFE by-passes all functions including the rumble filter.

And yes, adding a second sub to it would be great as two of the SW-12B woofers (8 ohms each) can easily be paralleled onto just one SA-1 amp.

I'll sweeten the deal even further and offer two SW-12B woofers and one SA-1 amp for only $279 plus shipping.

Yep, the amp and two 12" subs for only $279!

danny, is the sa-1 amp stable to 2.67 or 2 ohms?   

best,

doug s.

[Danny Richie]

danny, is the sa-1 amp stable to 2.67 04 2 ohms?   

best,

doug s.

I wouldn't give it a load less than 3 ohms.

[doug s.]

Might be pretty close, but the 15 will need a larger sealed box.

If they are in phase (both moving the same direction at the same time) then it cuts the box size in half.

If they oppose (move in opposite directions at the same time) then the air space is doubled.

danny, you say:  "...If they are in phase (both moving the same direction at the same time) ..."  unless the drivers are both facing in the same direction, (i.e.: when looking at the driver on the back of the cabinet, you see the spider not the cone face), wouldn't you need to wire them out of phase in order for them to both be moving the same direction at the same time? 

imagine the below to be a sub w/two cones on opposite sides of the cabinet ( ">"  & "<" )
______
|>   <|
|____|

connecting them in phase means they both move away from each other & towards each other at the same time.  connecting them out of phase means they move in the same direction at the same time, no?

thanks,

doug s.

[doug s.]

I wouldn't give it a load less than 3 ohms.

so, if i wanted to mount 4 in one cabinet, then i should parallel series pair w/the second pair also in series?  the sa-1 is good for that?

thanks,

doug s.

[Danny Richie]

connecting them in phase means they both move away from each other & towards each other at the same time.  connecting them out of phase means they move in the same direction at the same time, no?

When I say in phase then I am talking about them moving the same direction at the same time. Polarity on one of them will be reversed.

[doug s.]

When I say in phase then I am talking about them moving the same direction at the same time. Polarity on one of them will be reversed.

thanks for the clarification, danny.

best,

doug s.

[satfrat]

thanks for the clarification, danny.

best,

doug s.

Welcome back to postiing Doug. 

[tomclaw]

So I just built the sand box. I would like to know how to attach the driver to the baffle. Mind you
Home Depot is going to supply the parts

[Danny Richie]

So I just built the sand box. I would like to know how to attach the driver to the baffle. Mind you
Home Depot is going to supply the parts

Wood screws.

[Danny Richie]

I am going to continue this through the month of September also.

[Musto]

This is a great deal, Danny.  I am laughing a little today.  Your price is so cheap that my boxes will cost the same price in materials.

[alphaiii]

Is this deal still ending at the end of this month?

I'm still contemplating this for my first sub build.

What I'm not sure of is what kind of performance to expect (output, in-room response).  Obviously, if I model this woofer in WinISD with only 110 watts, it not impressive... but that doesn't account for the mirrored frequency response output of the SA-1 amp.

BTW, I'm not entirely sure I understand how the output of this amp works...

Thoughts on how a single SW-12B/SA-1 would stack up to a compact commercial sealed 12" like the Emotiva Ultra Sub 12?

[Danny Richie]

The SW-12B and SA-1 amp combo is not about SPL levels. It is about quality. How well made your box is and how solid and none resonant it is also is a big determining factor. If you want quality and SPL use two SW-12B's on one amp. If you need more than that use four SW-12B's and two amps....

[Rclark]

The Ultra 12 isn't even Emotiva's top level, its meant to be low end, they have a better model coming, I wouldn't even consider the Ultra 12  as an option and I own their cd player . Danny's deal here is the least subwoofer you should consider, and if you want to better it you'd wanna go with his servo subs.

[alphaiii]

The Ultra 12 isn't even Emotiva's top level, its meant to be low end, they have a better model coming, I wouldn't even consider the Ultra 12  as an option and I own their cd player . Danny's deal here is the least subwoofer you should consider, and if you want to better it you'd wanna go with his servo subs.

Regardless of it being Emotiva's entry level 12" sub, it's a fairly well built sub.  I was able to get it for $360, and for that price it performs very well.  Prior to the Emotiva, the best sub I've owned was a Mirage Prestige S10, and I feel the Ultra 12 is better.  The S10 is a very tight sounding sub, and it has decent output for such a compact ported 10".  The Ultra 12 gives just as good of sound quality, but more output and deeper extension (in my room at least). 

I realize the Ultra 12 isn't meant to be a high end sub, but the driver appears solid, and the cabinets are well made...  the SQ is clean and tight, and it has plenty of output for my 13 x 17 room...  all for $360.

Still, I am interested in a SW-12B/SA-1 sub... in part to build something myself for the first time... but also because Danny's designs are so well regarded.

But, given the fact that I'll likely have to have someone else build cabinet for me... it's going to cost me just as much as the Emotiva sub (if not more, depending how much I want to put into the cabinet).

My main concern is that I lose output compared to what I have now, given that the SA-1 is only 110 watts into 8 ohm. 

The Ultra 12 is in my living room system, which I use primarily for HT.  I didn't want a big sub, and I have to be mindful of neighbors (connected townhome), so the compact sealed 12" is perfect for my needs.  That said, I don't want to give up output from what I have now.

[Rclark]

Ouch, well, as long as you're happy. I own their cd player and I'm on the preorder list for the dac but I'd never consider that sub, especially for $360. I don't see that amount as a good value. If you'd done a bit more research you could have gotten a GR servo sub kit for a bit more cash.


I'd sell it while you can


Also if I were you, and I was keeping the U12, then I'd just start looking at the servo sub kits instead. Upgrade vertically into better gear.

You also don't need to have someone build you a cabinet you can very inexpensively order a cut flatpack from a company like Elemental Designs and glue it together yourself at home, veneer it, paint it, whatever you want.

[alphaiii]

Ouch, well, as long as you're happy. I own their cd player and I'm on the preorder list for the dac but I'd never consider that sub, especially for $360. I don't see that amount as a good value. If you'd done a bit more research you could have gotten a GR servo sub kit for a bit more cash.


I'd sell it while you can


Also if I were you, and I was keeping the U12, then I'd just start looking at the servo sub kits instead. Upgrade vertically into better gear.

You also don't need to have someone build you a cabinet you can very inexpensively order a cut flatpack from a company like Elemental Designs and glue it together yourself at home, veneer it, paint it, whatever you want.

I didn't think $360 was bad at all considering I couldn't find any sealed 12" subs in that price range (excluding DIY and kits).  I thought about going with an eD 10" sealed sub for $350... but went with the Ultra 12 when they lowered the price on it.

Now for the list price of $599... I'd never even give the Emotiva a though.  Hell, even the pre-order price of $499 was too high.  If they can sell it for $359 on sale... then IMO the regular price shouldn't be higher than $399. 

The good thing is that it would be easy to sell since Emotiva has raised the price to $599...

Now, I'm fully aware that there is better value in DIY.  But, you have to consider this...  the cost of the servo driver and amp (370W PEQ, which is all Brian has on the Rythmik site at this point) is already alot more expensive than what I paid for the Ultra 12.  Then, there is the cabinet costs.  Even if I went with a flat pack from eD...  I still need the glue, dampening materials, clamps, ect.  I don't have these...so add to the cost.

Same thing with finishing... I need whether is necessary to seal/prime the MDF, and paint, or veneer and stain/finish - all materials I don't have.  And since I've never finished cabinets, I'm not confident in my painting or veneering abilities.  I wouldn't be happy sinking $600-700 into a DIY sub if it's a crappy finish.

I've looked into the servo kits in the past... and even if I was able to get the cabinets cheap, I don't see how I could build it for under $600, not counting the time I'd have to put into it.

This is why I'm looking into the SW-12B/SA-1 instead... definitely more in my price range.

[alphaiii]

Side note... 

One thing I did think about was having a cabinet built out of oak ply... this way... I can just stain the surface and not worry about veneer or paint.  I know Baltic birch is the preferred ply... but birch doesn't stain well.

So if I wanted to go with an oak ply cabinet... how many layers does the ply need to be?

[django11]

This might be of interest:

High Density Maple/Birch (Baltic Birch or Appleply)
High density plywoods (HDP) typically come in either maple or birch specie. Unlike common plywood, HDP has many more plies, is generally void free, and uses a stronger species than fir. HDP is commonly used for drawer side material as it is strong, stable, and has a moderately attractive edge

Baltic Birch
Baltic birch is probably the most common type of HDP, and uses birch as the substrate. This will come in 5' x 5' sheets. For a 1/2" sheet, there are typically 7 to 9 plies. Being birch, the surface does not finish as nicely as the maple counterpart, and there is a tendency for splintering at the edge of a machined cut.

Appleply
Appleply is a manufacturer's name for high density maple plywood. From a fabrication stand point, it is similar to Baltic Birch, in that it carries about the same number of plies, except Appleply comes in standard 4'x8' sheets. Because the surface is maple, there will be slightly more grain pattern on the surface, and the surface will sand much smoother. There is less splintering of the machined edges, and those splinters which do appear will be shorter and less inclined to align with the edge.