0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic. Read 6255 times.
... turned off my furnace intentionally for an hour of listening. Went to bed and forgot to turn it back on...hehe. woke up and the house was pretty cold....lol
Dave,I am out in a rural area, 20+ miles S of Abilene TX. We are the only house on our transformer, and the nearest neighbor is 1/3 mile away. Are most of the important sources of line noise within my home? When listening, the fluorescent lights are off and the computer is off. All incandescent lights are on dimmers. I try to turn them all the way on or off. I use a combo of Electra Cables and DIY. Invariably cables end up in a random criss cross behind the components. What are the things that the listener can control before buying line conditioners? Scott
We tend to have the opposite problem in TX. Especially with tubes in the summer. But surely in Saskatoon the solution to your problem is ... more tubes!
Kids. They know to knock but sometimes I don't hear them and they scare the crap out of me.
... The single biggest noise (EMI) contributor in most peoples home that runs on 110-120V is the refrigerator. If at all possible, make sure that the system is on the other wiring phase from the 'fridge. That means having someone qualified to do so switch the circuit to the other phase, if it is on the system phase...Dave
Dave could you possibly elaborate on this just a bit? My house was built in 1960 & has 2 conductor wire throughout. I do have a dedicated line fed for audio purposes w/ exception of my sub which is on another outlet/ circuit. I have a Rythmik Audio servo sub w/ a Danny Ritchie driver. Even w/ a cheater plug, it has an audible hum. I currently have an OC703 corner absorber near it which helps, but I can still hear it. Speaking of which, I can hear the pulsing of the fridge compressor from the sub driver if my ear is placed next to it. Ugh ...
My first question to you would be: Is the subwoofer circuit and the dedicated audio circuit on the same phase at the panel? If not, there is your noise generator. Tell us more about the electrical connections and types of gear in your system. Ground loops are the worst! Hate 'em. They can come from any connection in the system. I have seen gear that had the hot/neutral reversed internally. Plug an interconnect into it from another piece of gear that is wired correctly and you have hum issues.Refrigerators and refrigerated air are big offenders. Stay tuned for news on this front.Dave
I'll have to do some careful detective work in the panel & see. I've also got one of those plug-in circuit testers that I need to use at all outlets. Once I have some further details, I'll post...
Refrigerators and refrigerated air are big offenders. Stay tuned for news on this front.Dave
I’m dealing w/ a summer outage project this wk. & working long hrs., but contractor broke off early yesterday to get some stuff fab’d in the shop. So that freed up some time for me to do some detective work & help scratch that itch that Dave started in this thread …Let me preface my comments by saying I will definitely get an electrician to do any extensive mods/ trouble-shooting, but I've added/ changed circuit breakers before in this house I’ve owned for last 3 yrs..I checked outlets w/ 3 prong plug-in tester (all outlets are 3 prong) & most indicate “open ground” (orange center light bright, orange right light very dim). I assume this is normal for my house that was built in 1960 & has 2 conductor wire. There are a few outlets that are “correct” (orange center light bright, orange right light bright; bath outlets for ex.). Circuit breaker panel inspection indicates fridge is on Line 1 phase, as is the outlet serving my subwoofer. Also on this phase is washer/ dryer. My dedicated outlet for A/V equipment is on Line 2 phase, BUT the HVAC/ Furnace is on this phase as well (125a: 50a condenser, 50a sub-panel & 25a furnace), as is water heater.I added an extension cord to the sub & hooked-up to A/V outlet to keep both on same phase opposite the fridge. Hum still there. I had a déjà vu moment, & remembered I had done this last year (incl. lugging the sub to another room on a different circuit) , but then I’ve slept since then. I also had tried different cables between avr & sub, disconnected OTA antenna feed to avr, etc..I had checked connections on sub amp/ driver before when I added No-Rez earlier this yr., & they had seemed snug enough.So would it be good to switch the fridge circuit breaker to Line 2 phase w/ HVAC, & switch dedicated A/V outlet (incl. routing a cable in attic to sub outlet) to Line 1 phase? Both are single 20a breakers. I realize this doesn’t eliminate my specific ground loop problem, but assume it might help matters in general. Oh, A/V system details: 42" Pio plasma , Denon AVR, 6 speaker surround, Oppo blu-ray. 2.1 ch: GR Research N2x & servo sub, Virtue One. 2 int. amp & Dodd batteries w/ trickle charger (note: 2 ch added in past month. Sub hum problems known before this).Edit: Seems like a 3rd line came in for the 125a HVAC. I need look at again this weekend, but I sure hope so after tallying up all the breaker amperage. Also, the GE panel has 24 slots on left & 24 on right.
I'm tuned but impatient.
I know. Me, too.I'm having a helluva time getting some essential components from one of my suppliers. I was supposed to have delivery on a couple of thousand pieces in February. I'm still waiting. I have scrounged other sources until I have about depleted them.I'm impatient.Dave
So what's the realistic tuned amout needed?