[Will2]

Hi all,

Well, to cut a long story short, I rediscovered how much I enjoyed listening to music about 18 months ago and got myself even more hooked when I set up a system at home.  Then I had an idea - building some speakers would be a great way to spend some time with a buddy of mine - and I've always found it much more meaningful putting my own sweat equity into things, so it would be a win-win. So I ordered some GR Research stuff and bravely ventured forth ...... having never done any DIY or woodwork before.

Well, wow .... this is a lot more work than I thought it was.  I have a new-found respect for cabinet builders.  As is often the case, I was a bit ambitious.  I got a pair of N2x flat packs thinking we'd whip those out quickly for practice before we set on a pair of Super-V's.  Many weeks later ..... we're still on the N2x's. Ok, we only spend about 4 hours every second weekend, but still.  Anyhow, we've got the veneer on and are ready to varnish ...... here are some pics.









Next is on to the varnish.  I'm hoping the coloration in the veneer really comes out.  Any advice as to whether I should varnish or cut the holes in the veneer first?

Will

[zybar]

Great job Will.

You picked a really nice and interesting veneer.

Good luck in your next steps.

George

[Will2]

Thanks George - you've been a great help to me in building my system.  How are you enjoying the JC 2 by the way?

[decal]

Cut first,you don't want to mar the finish.I would have cut the holes before veneering,but hey,that's just me.Be very careful,that's some nice looking veneer.Good luck.

[Will2]

Thanks decal.  The holes in the cabinet are cut but I didn't cut the veneer before applying because I fully expected not to get the cut 100% right and being left with gaps.  The only really tricky bit is the cut for the tweeters because that cut has to be very accurate.  The baffles are already cut with the inset to accommodate the inset drivers but that leaves us needing to cut the veneer very accurately tracking to curve of the baffle-inset.

Does anybody have any advice as to how I can get the cuts for the tweeters done nice and cleanly?

[django11]

Really nice veneer!  You could just wet it a bit with paint thinner if you want an idea on how it will look with varnish.

If you want to cut the veneer to the same dimension as the hole you can use a router and a flush cutting bit with a bearing like this

[ebag4]

Gorgeous veneer!  Those are going to look fantastic when you are finished.

Django11 has given you the tool to flush cut the veneer inside the cutout.  Good luck!

Best,
Ed

[WGH]

The only really tricky bit is the cut for the tweeters because the drivers are inset (and therefore don't overlap the veneer - and cover up inaccurate cutting).

Does anybody have any advice as to how I can get the cuts for the tweeters done nice and cleanly?

The flush bit will only get you halfway there with inset drivers.
Here is one method to get a perfect cut:

1.) Use the flush bit to trim the veneer the size of the tweeter through hole.
2.) Use a band saw or adjustable hole cutter to make a disk the exact size of the tweeter hole out of scrap.
3.) Use hot melt glue to attach the disk in the tweeter hole. Don't use too much glue, just enough to hold it in place. (3-4 dots)
4.) Make an extended router base with a pivot hole.
5.) Screw the router base to the center of the tweeter disk and route the recess for the driver.

You may have to reverse steps 3 & 5 because the attachment screw will probably be under the router base.

Or -

If the veneer is real thin you can probably sand it with a curved sanding block to match the recess once the hole is cut.

Wayne 

[Will2]

Thanks Wayne, it's great to have a pro looking over my shoulder. 

I'm not sure I described the situation accurately in my original post, so I've revised it above.  The inset in the baffle to house the sweeter surround is has already been cut into the baffle.  What I have to do now is make sure I cut the veneer exactly flush with that pre-cut curve.  Given those circumstances it sounds to me like django11's suggestion would work.  Am I still missing something?

[dvenardos]

That is pretty much what I did with my AV-1RS, but since the drivers are facing the ceiling I wasn't too concerned about being exact.

edit: I used a plunge router to set the correct depth.

Thanks Wayne, it's great to have a pro looking over my shoulder. 

I'm not sure I described the situation accurately in my original post, so I've revised it above.  The inset in the baffle to house the sweeter surround is has already been cut into the baffle.  What I have to do now is make sure I cut the veneer exactly flush with that pre-cut curve.  Given those circumstances it sounds to me like django11's suggestion would work.  Am I still missing something?

[WGH]

It all depends how deep the recess is. Does the layout under the veneer look like this?



If it does, then the countersink is only .18", a little shy of 3/16".



The bearing is thicker than the recess and the carbide cutter of the router bit will be above the hole.

And always cut first, varnish last.

Wayne

[Will2]

It looks very much like that under the veneer Wayne. 

[WGH]

Then you will either have to sand or route using a center pivot point unless someone who has done this before has a more elegant solution.

Wayne

[Danny Richie]

Man, that veneer looks great!

You can cut the veneer around the recessed tweeter opening with an exacto knife if you are real careful.

They also make veneer trimming tool with a thin flat base and no bearing. I don't know where to get them though. Al Wooley sent me one several years ago.

There is one on this page near the bottom: http://oak.cats.ohiou.edu/~schneidw/audio/veneer_trimming_recesses.html

[Danny Richie]

Here is one: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5410

[WGH]

I hesitated advising a newbie to wield a razor sharp knife anywhere close to that gorgeous burl.

Yep, that's it. Grizzly Tools has a solid carbide bit for $7.25 but the bearing may also be too high.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Solid-Carbide-Flush-Trim-Laminate-Bit-1-4-Shank/C1455



A hacksaw will not cut carbide and you would need a grinding wheel with a silicon carbide wheel to grind the bearing down to 1/8".

Back in the old days these cutters were made from high speed steel which is easy to grind.

Wayne

[dvenardos]

Is that Walnut burl veneer?

[Will2]

Is that Walnut burl veneer?

Yup - got it from a guy, Fritz, who ended up providing great service and what to me looked like good quality product at a very competitive price ...... but remember this is my first shot at this so I could easily be wrong.  He sells through ebay here http://shop.ebay.com/rjfritz123/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686

[nrenter]

I used to be the kind of guy who didn't give a rat's ass about how a speakers looked. Gimme great drivers and crossover parts, and a well thought-out design in a package that got the job done - aesthetics be damned (i.e. Vandersteen 2 and 3 series).

Maybe I'm just older and (cough) wiser, or maybe I'm now willing (and able) to spend a premium for excellent woodwork and a beautiful design. I love an interesting veneer. Good stuff! I can't wait to see the finished product.

[ebag4]

I get my veneer from Ron Fritz as well, he has been great to work with.  He is only five or so miles from me so I get to go pick mine out.

Regarding the Burls, my experience is that they are a bit more brittle (for lack of a better term) than non burled veneers.  Before cutting the holes I would recommend taping the area you will be cutting to help suppress splitting and tearing of the veneer.  I have used painters tape and masking tape.  If using masking tape be careful when removing the excess, it sticks a little too well.

Best,
Ed