[FullRangeMan]

Seems a good idea inform tube Hobbyist and tube Fans any relevant info for it not be lost.
I found this image below in a Polish site and think it can help anyone is building a tube amp, as Iam a newbie this is a new info for me.
IF you have a important info or small detail you wish share with the tube community, Please post in this thread for we can learn with it.
Thanks in advance, Gustavo

[lord dubious]

Hi All
The above quote is from the Preamp Cookbook by Allen Wright, I think.
I found it to be fun to read with technical stuff that people smarter than me would find intellectually stimulating.
Cheers

[JakeJ]

Hi Gustavo,
 
Wire and their metal properties and guage is a topic that has weighed heavily in my mind of late.  My personal observations and experiences with cabling has shown that less metal is better sonically.  All of the following has been with the use of tube gear and the one overriding observation with solid-state gear is copper always sounds better than silver.
 
I have three runs of Analysis Plus Silver Oval speaker wire.  One set has the big T1 spades which are milled from solid copper and have a heavy silver plating (now gold plated).

The second pair has the flat solid silver spades (which I no longer see on their website), and the third set has the silver banana (shown in gold)

 
Both the flat spade and the banana sound better than the big T1 spade.  To clarify what "better" means the clarity from top to bottom is several notches higher.  Bass definition is more focused and tighter.  Treble sweet and smooth, a struck symbol has a natural ring and shimmer that the heavy metal connector seems to lose, it just seems more congested.  Also pace, rythym, and timing is improved causing more toe-tappin' enjoyment.
 
This observation is even more evident with interconnects and the effect of more metal on low level signals.  I have Analysis Plus Silver Oval, Pure Silver Sound, DIY Neotech NEI-3002 UP OCC copper, all using RCA connectors.  The AP uses their proprietary locking RCA plug, the PSS also uses a locking RCA plug, and I used Vampire Wire's Xhadow RCA plugs. 
 
First, I will state that I hate locking RCA plugs as they are a PITA.  I had one of the Analysis Plus plugs freeze on me and I had to use pliers to get it off.  I replaced the plugs on that set with Eichmann Silver Bullets and to my ears this was an audible improvement.  Second I will say that I made mistake using the Xhadow plugs as they are big, milled, solid copper with silver plating and have caused problems with some jacks due to the weight and strain they put on a connection.
 
I don't know what the wire guages are for the Analysis Plus or the Neotech but Frank Steele of Pure Silver Sound states that he uses 28 guage soft annealed wire for his interconnects.  One thing to note about the PSS interconnects is they are some what fragile.  I had a plug break off on one set and I replaced them with Eichmann Silver Bullet plugs.  Again this was subtle sonic improvement.
 
My favorite is the Pure Silver Sound with Eichmann Silver Bullets because they are the most neutral and natural sounding of the bunch.  Bass is rendered as powerful as Thor's hammer or as soft as distant thunder when called to do so.  Cymbals and piano are more realistically portrayed which are two of the more difficult instruments to get right in audio reproduction (IMHO).  Close second is the AP Silver Ovals and an even closer third is the Neotech.  Ultimately my observations with respect to low level signal cables runs parallel to the article you reference.
 
That said, I am not so sure when it comes to speaker cable as it obviously has to a transmit a much larger current and voltage signal to the transducers.  I have tried some small(er) guage wire in this application and found it not as good a performer as heavier guage cables.  My current reference is Analysis Plus Silver Oval and I have tried DH Labs Silver Sonic (not as transparent or well balanced), Neotech NES-3002 (muddy and ill defined), Bogdan 18 guage solid silver (nice but doesn't convey the body and weight that the AP does), and Omega Mikro Planar V copper/silver ribbon (sounded great with the Von Schweikert VR4s but present a shouty upper midrange and a glare in the lower treble on my Genesis 5.2).  My curiosity is on the rise again and I have an itch to try Analysis Plus Solo Crystal interconnects and speaker cable.
 
One further note, I had an opportunity to try Audio Magic's new Liquid Illusion cables, utilizing a proprietary conductive liquid polymer, and to my ears this was a dark and somewhat murky presentation.  I may not have had them long enough to make a proper assessment but for the money I just couldn't see them in my audio future.

[FullRangeMan]

Thanks boys for your input. Another one: 220Volts mains line/gear is always better than 110/120V(this is not a secret, everybody knows it).

[Steve]

Thanks boys for your input. Another one: 220Volts mains line/gear is always better than 110/120V(this is not a secret, everybody knows it).

For amplifiers or all components? I ask because 120 vac is easily just as good for preamplifiers and smaller energy devices.

Cheers.

[FullRangeMan]

For amplifiers or all components? I ask because 120 vac is easily just as good for preamplifiers and smaller energy devices.
Cheers.

In my personal experience as audio custumer since 1974, 220/230/240Volts is better sound for all gear, inclusive video equipment.
Regards,  Gustavo

[JakeJ]

That's an interesting tidbit I did not know.  I'll do some more research.

Thanks, Gustavo!

[Steve]

In my personal experience as audio custumer since 1974, 220/230/240Volts is better sound for all gear, inclusive video equipment.
Regards,  Gustavo

Hi Gustavo,

I have to respectfully disagree but do appreciate your experiences. It is possible by careful design (carefully controlled listening tests) to produce smaller components that sound accurate in absolute terms (minus ICs etc) at 120 vac. What you are experiencing may be a case because typical manufacturers simply "voice" their creations which means very little in abolute accurate terms.

Pertaining to amplifiers it is possible as A, AB, B amps inherently have either heavy current draw or heavy peak current requirements. Other devices such as players and preamplifiers are operated class A.

Cheers.

[FullRangeMan]

Thanks Steve.

[Steve]

Thanks Steve.

Thinking about it further, some preamplifiers do have lots of tubes or SS and could draw several amps, which could change sound with 220 operation. Maybe not all but at least a few. My apologies Gustavo.

Cheers.

[FullRangeMan]

Thinking about it further, some preamplifiers do have lots of tubes or SS and could draw several amps, which could change sound with 220 operation. Maybe not all but at least a few. My apologies Gustavo.

Cheers.

Hello Steve,
Maybe it is my fault, my english may had fail here.  I mean said I prefer 220Volts equip in relation to the same 110/120Volts gear.
My old Sony SCD-1 is USA model 120Volts, but I prefer the Euro 230Volts version, because 230Volts is better sound quality to my ears
(more tension/current avaliable).
Regards, Gustavo

[FullRangeMan]

Hi Gustavo,
 
Wire and their metal properties and guage is a topic that has weighed heavily in my mind of late.
 

Dear Jake,
Your post is very interesting, it made remember what I read in a cable builder site in the past:  it say the best metal for electric conductor is silver(very refined Silver), the second best is hi quality copper, gold is good only for low level signals under 2Volts and no better than Silver.
Unrefined Silver have worst sound quality than copper.

I wonder IF this Liquid Polymer cable suffer oxidation as Silver or Copper cables??
Regards, Gustavo

[JakeJ]

Hi Gustavo,

No, the liquid conductor itself does not suffer from oxidation but there is, of course, metal connectors on each end so they will suffer this problem with certain metals.  That's why rhodium has been so popular for many years and in so many applications.

Best,
Jake

[FullRangeMan]

Hi Gustavo,

No, the liquid conductor itself does not suffer from oxidation but there is, of course, metal connectors on each end so they will suffer this problem with certain metals.  That's why rhodium has been so popular for many years and in so many applications.

Best,
Jake

I asked this because Voltage/Current passing in the cable made a reaction and it corrode with time(almost always in the solder/grip point), maybe a lyquid conductor may be better in this area.  I already see many deep pocket audiophiles here, change interconnects cables every two years due ''oxidation''.
Regards, Gustavo

[JakeJ]

Really?  I have had my Silver Oval cables for more than five years and I see no sign of oxidizing through the clear jacket.  My oldest set of cables are showing signs of the clear jacket yellowing but they are well over 12 years old.  The only cable I have seen oxidization in is the the big 500 MCM wire at work from the electric utility service coming into the plant I work at, but that is 600 Volts at 800 Amps.

I find it hard to believe interconnects carrying signal voltages under 10 volts and in the milliamps level to be oxidizing in two years. 

Jake

[Steve]

Hello Steve,
Maybe it is my fault, my english may had fail here.  I mean said I prefer 220Volts equip in relation to the same 110/120Volts gear.

Regards, Gustavo

That is what I was interpreting that you meant Gustavo. 

My old Sony SCD-1 is USA model 120Volts, but I prefer the Euro 230Volts version,.....

Thanks for the information Gustavo. Much appreciated. 

Cheers.

[FullRangeMan]

I find it hard to believe interconnects carrying signal voltages under 10 volts and in the milliamps level to be oxidizing in two years. 

Jake

I suppose it is oxidation, I was told there is some kind of sonic degradation.  I note there is a constant sale of used cables over the years on this brazilian site http://www.clubedoaudio.com.br/Classificados/Listar.aspx by readers audiophiles and the magazine critics too.

[FullRangeMan]

Another tip for good tube heat dissipation, a brazilian tube hobbyist inform me this one:
>> Black anodized aluminium is the best material for heat dissipation in a tube amp chassis or tube table(magnesium is ever better),
the second best is black painted aluminium.
>> For good sound quality the best chassis is solid real wood.
>> Painted steel chassis has low heat irradiation/dissipation, same for Inox steel, but are good for RFI shielding.
>> Some tube amps builders use brass for tube table or chassis for good sound quality(I can not say it have great sound,
as I never listen a such amp yet, but the heat dissipation is no fast as anodized aluminium).

[TONEPUB]

Thanks boys for your input. Another one: 220Volts mains line/gear is always better than 110/120V(this is not a secret, everybody knows it).

Not really.  I've had the experience of hearing both side by side at a number of Mfrs. facilities and could never hear a bit of difference.  And I've asked plenty of engineers about this, they all just laughed.  So I think you're getting a little carried away with yourself here...

[JakeJ]

Another tip for good tube heat dissipation, a brazilian tube hobbyist inform me this one:
>> Black anodized aluminium is the best material for heat dissipation in a tube amp chassis or tube table(magnesium is ever better),
the second best is black painted aluminium.

OK, I'll bite on this one.  Why would black anodized aluminum be better than non-anodized or any other color of anodizing?  After all it's just a coloring process.  And second magnesium is not a better heat conductor than aluminum, sorry.  Follow this link and you will see in the table what the heat conductivity is for several metals.  I found it interesting that aluminum's conductivity goes up as temperature rises.  Copper is a far better heat conductor (all those French chefs can't be wrong  ) but it's heat conductivity goes down as temp rises, although it is over a significantly larger range.
 

>> For good sound quality the best chassis is solid real wood.

Jack Elliano of ElectraPrint fame agrees with you on this.  Although he uses hardwoods for the sides, front, and back and pressed hardboard for the top plate painted with a hammertone finish.  Here is his tech blog on the subject.
 

>> Painted steel chassis has low heat irradiation/dissipation, same for Inox steel, but are good for RFI shielding.

RFI, or radio frequency interference, should not be a problem unless you live within 5 miles of a high power transmitter.  Cell phones do cause problems as well.
 

>> Some tube amps builders use brass for tube table or chassis for good sound quality(I can not say it have great sound,
as I never listen a such amp yet, but the heat dissipation is no fast as anodized aluminium).

Agreed that brass is not as good a heat conductor as aluminum.  As to sound quality I have no experience but it would seem that brass is used for aesthetic purposes more than anything else.
 
Well that's the science I came up with doing just a bit of research on the first two points.  The second two are just my opinion, FWIW.