[vegasdave]

I had a pair of M3's with a 4B and I agree 4B Bass / 3B Mid HF will work well.

Cool, thanks.

[vegasdave]

Hi Charles,

That's my vote as well or a 7B/14B if budget does not permit.

james

Why is that, James?

[Mad Mr H]

Presumably once accessible, it's straightforward to disable it by re-wiring appropriately.

Thats only a very small part of going active from an original passive setup.......

I have been trying for weeks to do a write up and explain some essential items as well as mention areas for others to add thoughts to........

The cabinet as a "passive" unit is designed with phase alignment of drivers with the internal passive cross over, some drivers may even be out of phase to get best response results, roll off slopes already mentioned, gain per driver, often the HF unit crossover design changes the impedance to help protect the HF  driver, A PMC MB2/BB5 active uses a different HF unit to the passive. (Those that know how how to do this in full, the above info is a small part and not meantto be a "how to..." - So no need to mention missing items )

There is much more than just "wire round the x over" and onnect an active unit.

bi/tri amp, active vs passive Questions will be lost in this thread, so I do intend (on day) to create a thread about this.

Even if I tell you my thoughts about how to go about this you still need test kit to help setup - If you are looking for perfect results.....

PS - Those that know about my journey to go "active" with my BB5's - I now have ONE BB5 original "ACTIVE" speaker here 

Andy.

[gtaphile]

I resisted answering your question with a different recommendation altogether but as others have....

Based on my previous experience (M3's and 4B)...you can buy the highest power Bryston 2 channel amp or monoblocks you can afford in the ST/SST or squared range and enjoy the kit.

Biamping will cost you more than twice that of a 2 channel amp and this money could be used to upgrade your kit altogether, including your speakers.

Cool, thanks.

[quietdragon]

Biamping will cost you more than twice that of a 2 channel amp and this money could be used to upgrade your kit altogether, including your speakers.

I see. Ok perhaps I can get you guys to be a little more specific.

I'm not in a position to have an unlimited budget in this regard as you have likely surmised based on my questions about the older Mirage M3.

The first scenario (the one I'm posting about here) sees a budget of roughly $2k for power amplification. As you can tell, my original plan was a bi-amplification system using a pair of (older) 4Bs (4Be, 4B-NRB) based on a configuration that a friend of mine has had for many years now (although his power amplifiers are home-built).

Am I better off with a single 4B-ST ?  Or would you guys suggesting something else (within roughly the same budgetary constraints) ?

[gtaphile]

A used 4BST would work nicely. 

I see. Ok perhaps I can get you guys to be a little more specific.

I'm not in a position to have an unlimited budget in this regard as you have likely surmised based on my questions about the older Mirage M3.

The first scenario (the one I'm posting about here) sees a budget of roughly $2k for power amplification. As you can tell, my original plan was a bi-amplification system using a pair of (older) 4Bs (4Be, 4B-NRB) based on a configuration that a friend of mine has had for many years now (although his power amplifiers are home-built).

Am I better off with a single 4B-ST ?  Or would you guys suggesting something else (within roughly the same budgetary constraints) ?

[quietdragon]

A used 4BST would work nicely.

Here is what I think has been suggested over the course of this thread (more or less in order of cost, and some bi-amp and some not):

• One 4B-ST
• One 4B-ST and one 3B-ST
• Two 4B-STs
• Two 7B-STs
• One 14B-ST
• One 28B-SST

[rollo]

  I have owned the combination as stated before of the 4BST and the Mirage MSsi that is why I recco the Class DR250 used or a newer Bryston. The older Bryston IMO was a tad hard and bright in the upper registers, the new ones not bright or hard, smooth actually   with the Mirage. If you like bright than by all means go for it. Maybe someone is selling a use ST or a squared. Stick to one VG amp as oppossed to two fair amps [ in comparison]
  I would be patient and save some more mulla or buy ONE better amp.



charles

[quietdragon]

  I have owned the combination as stated before of the 4BST and the Mirage MSsi that is why I recco the Class DR250 used or a newer Bryston.

My original thinking was that the it would not be worth my while considering a newer amplifier given the vintage of the M3s, but I think you're suggesting otherwise.

Newer would mean something in the SST range at the very least, right?

And if just one amplifier, which one Bryston would you suggest?

[klik]

I too have Mirage M3 speakers.  I used two Classe CA-150 for a long while.  Then I came across Audiokarma and how easy to access the M3 crossover.  I end up modding the crossover with Mundorfs and Vcaps.  Now I have no need of biamping so I sold the Classe’s to get me a MC-275.