[macrojack]

I ordered a kit tonight. Despite the fact that I assembled a couple of Hafler DH-200 amps back in the late 70s, I'm feeling very daring and challenged about the prospect of actually making this work. I hope I know what I'm doing.

Oh well, I'm sure I've spent more money in worse ways in my past. Like the time I pissed away more than half a grand on an online real estate course. I couldn't read that crappy legal jibberish for more than twenty minutes without lapsing into a trance. Bad investment and I should have known myself better.
I've been resisting the temptation to purchase one of these amplifier kits as I avidly followed this thread. Tonight I reached a point where I could no longer ignore the impulse.

[avionic]

I ordered a kit tonight. Despite the fact that I assembled a couple of Hafler DH-200 amps back in the late 70s, I'm feeling very daring and challenged about the prospect of actually making this work. I hope I know what I'm doing.

You won't have any problems. If you have any questions just ask here or email Tom.

[steve k]

It really is easy. If you've assembled Haflers this will be a piece of cake. No soldering at all in the breadboard model--just screw connections. If you put it in a case, you may have some soldering on the board and with your binding posts and RCA's but again, its relatively minor. Tom makes these really easy to assemble--all the better--you can hear it quicker that way!
steve

[macrojack]

From looking at the pictures on his site and in this thread  I get the impression that crimp on spade lugs might be a good idea for connecting wires under the screws. I figured I'd just cross that bridge when I come to it but since we're talking, I may as well ask you guys.

[earplay]

jtwrace:

The cap in question was .22 or .47uf. It's not critical, I think. I know nothing about electronics, so I took the advice of someone on AC.

You only need to separate the power lines, strip a bit of insulation off each one and attach a cap lead to the load and neutral sides. The arrangement is as if you were shorting the circuit. It seemed to me that there should have been a pop, a spark, a puff of smoke or ozone and no sound when I powered up, but it worked just like I was told.

The sonic result was that the amp had the punch and liveliness of the SMPS, but the smooth quality of a battery. That after I bought two SLAB's and a charger. For the price of a cap, a little electrician's tape and a lumpy power cord, I got better sound. Of course, YMMV, but if you don't like the result, you can just remove the cap and tape the wires.

Small investment for a really nice improvement.

Hope this helps.

[steve k]

From looking at the pictures on his site and in this thread  I get the impression that crimp on spade lugs might be a good idea for connecting wires under the screws. I figured I'd just cross that bridge when I come to it but since we're talking, I may as well ask you guys. Logged

The photos are deceiving. The screw connections on the boards are really small. They can handle maybe one 14 gauge wire max. for each. It's easier in the breadboard model to just strip the wires and stick them in the screw connectors.

Even when I put mine in a case, I continued to use the screw connectors on the boards.
steve

[jtwrace]

Just curious what conditioner, everyday like the Belkin or high dollar?

I use an Audio Magic Nexus which is plugged into an UberBuss.

[jtwrace]

     jtwrace: I am looking forward to seeing your finished enclosure as well.

Me too!  I'll post when it's done....

[jtwrace]

I ordered a kit tonight. Despite the fact that I assembled a couple of Hafler DH-200 amps back in the late 70s, I'm feeling very daring and challenged about the prospect of actually making this work. I hope I know what I'm doing.

Oh well, I'm sure I've spent more money in worse ways in my past. Like the time I pissed away more than half a grand on an online real estate course. I couldn't read that crappy legal jibberish for more than twenty minutes without lapsing into a trance. Bad investment and I should have known myself better.
I've been resisting the temptation to purchase one of these amplifier kits as I avidly followed this thread. Tonight I reached a point where I could no longer ignore the impulse.

No need to worry.  It's very simple to assemble and you have many peope willing to help. 

[jtwrace]

jtwrace:

The cap in question was .22 or .47uf. It's not critical, I think. I know nothing about electronics, so I took the advice of someone on AC.

You only need to separate the power lines, strip a bit of insulation off each one and attach a cap lead to the load and neutral sides. The arrangement is as if you were shorting the circuit. It seemed to me that there should have been a pop, a spark, a puff of smoke or ozone and no sound when I powered up, but it worked just like I was told.

The sonic result was that the amp had the punch and liveliness of the SMPS, but the smooth quality of a battery. That after I bought two SLAB's and a charger. For the price of a cap, a little electrician's tape and a lumpy power cord, I got better sound. Of course, YMMV, but if you don't like the result, you can just remove the cap and tape the wires.

Small investment for a really nice improvement.

Hope this helps.

Thanks.  I'll have to check into this some more.

[Nick77]

   Oh well, I'm sure I've spent more money in worse ways in my past                                                                     

No worries on this one, it worth many times its price.

[macrojack]

That's what I'm hoping, Nick. If all goes well, I intend to replace some pricer amps with these little guys. I went for the Sony HD tuner and the OPPO BDP-83 and I'm looking for other ways to take money out of my system without cutting out it's heart and soul. So far, so good.
If my big horns like this amp, I'll be buying at least one more.

[steve k]

If all goes well, I intend to replace some pricer amps with these little guys. I went for the Sony HD tuner and the OPPO BDP-83 and I'm looking for other ways to take money out of my system without cutting out it's heart and soul.

That's exactly what I was trying to accomplish. After being out of work over a year, I was looking to extract some cash out of my system without giving anything up in sound. To my amazement, my system sounds much better now!
steve

[macrojack]

I don't really have the background or ability to figure things out in an amplifier. Therefore, I require clear instructions in common English. So my big concern lies in whether or not the instructions are as confusing as the web site. I just bought the amp Steve recommended because it was too difficult to compare apples to apples, and because I know where I can find a picture to follow in the opening of this thread.
What is the difference between an amp and a kit?

I have an actively bi-amped system using a Jeff Rowland Capri pre-amp into a dbx Drive Rack PA. The signal is split in there and frequencies above 400 Hz go through my Jeff Rowland 102 amp to the horns. Below 400 Hz is sent through a Perreaux PMF 1850 to 15 inch woofers in vented cabinets. I'm planning to try replacing the Perreaux with the ClassD. After that, who knows? My dbx has XLR connectors so using balanced cables to the amps would be a nice bonus. For that reason, the 600 watt amp looked kind of attractive but I really don't need that kind of power since my speakers are well above 90 db efficient.
Does anyone have suggestions as to a path I might consider? Any body want my tube amps?

[jtwrace]

I don't really have the background or ability to figure things out in an amplifier. Therefore, I require clear instructions in common English. So my big concern lies in whether or not the instructions are as confusing as the web site. I just bought the amp Steve recommended because it was too difficult to compare apples to apples, and because I know where I can find a picture to follow in the opening of this thread.
What is the difference between an amp and a kit?

I have an actively bi-amped system using a Jeff Rowland Capri pre-amp into a dbx Drive Rack PA. The signal is split in there and frequencies above 400 Hz go through my Jeff Rowland 102 amp to the horns. Below 400 Hz is sent through a Perreaux PMF 1850 to 15 inch woofers in vented cabinets. I'm planning to try replacing the Perreaux with the ClassD. After that, who knows? My dbx has XLR connectors so using balanced cables to the amps would be a nice bonus. For that reason, the 600 watt amp looked kind of attractive but I really don't need that kind of power since my speakers are well above 90 db efficient.
Does anyone have suggestions as to a path I might consider? Any body want my tube amps?

Calm down..   If you can setup the dbx, I promise you'll have no issues.  Again, if you do, we're here to help.  Relax and smile lots!   

[macrojack]

Setting up my dbx is like following the footprints on Arthur Murray's dance floor.

Do I sound like that much of a basket case? Will I make it through this ordeal without medication? Tune in next week and find the answers to these and other questions.

But, while we're on the subject, I have a hissing sound. It's quiet but it's impossible to overlook. My horns are rated 108db efficiency but I pad them down in the dbx to the level of my woofs, which I would estimate to be about 95 db. The sound is like what you hear when you put a seashell to your ear. What's the problem? How do I eliminate it? Fixing that would certainly make me smile.

[jtwrace]

Do I sound like that much of a basket case?

Umm.   

[earplay]

How would these do with a passive pre? Would they be driven well with a standard DAC output level?

[jtwrace]

How would these do with a passive pre? Would they be driven well with a standard DAC output level?

I'm driving my 600w with a Tube Buffer (Dodd Audio) and it works great! 

[shadowlight]

Setting up my dbx is like following the footprints on Arthur Murray's dance floor.

Do I sound like that much of a basket case? Will I make it through this ordeal without medication? Tune in next week and find the answers to these and other questions.

But, while we're on the subject, I have a hissing sound. It's quiet but it's impossible to overlook. My horns are rated 108db efficiency but I pad them down in the dbx to the level of my woofs, which I would estimate to be about 95 db. The sound is like what you hear when you put a seashell to your ear. What's the problem? How do I eliminate it? Fixing that would certainly make me smile.

I am in the same boat related to doing the build but the guys in the thread have been real helpful in providing guidance  .  I received the boards yesterday but still waiting for the transformers.  I plan to wire up everything and take good close up pictures and post it.  Want to make sure that everything is wired up correctly before I hook it up to any kind of power.