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Just curious if anyone is having heat issues (thermal shut down) with modules and/or evaluation boards.....Sound-wise, is there a clear winner for low-cost DIY Class-D?-Tommy O
Got my cda 258 kit bread boarded and energized. Dead quiet, no harshness noted on the highs and no fm interference. Sounds great with all my sources. I'm happy with the purchase. These offerings from Class D Audio represent high value.
My preference would be to plug the CDA amp into the AC output on the Yamaha 1700. This way I can leave the CDA amp's power switch on and when the receiver turns on, the amp turns on, and when the receiver turns off, the amp turns off.
The switched AC convenience outlets on the Yamaha RX-V1700 are low-capacity 100W / .8A total designed for low-wattage components, like a CD player, turntable, etc.I assume you've tried the amplifier plugged directly into the wall, but even if they are not restricting the operation of the power amplifier plugged into them current-wise, the receiver's power switch / relay / convenience outlet circuit is not designed for a power amplifier's load of that wattage, even being a relatively efficient Class D.
I would contact Tom at Class D Audio. Maybe you have defective amp module. Mine has worked flawlessly and is dead quiet.
The most common complaint of class d is that the highs sound off. I don't know why that would be but I have my suspicions, and it has as much to do with what people are used to hearing.
Thanks all for the responses.Yes, as mentioned, I now use the CDA-254S solely plugged into the wall. When initially plugged in, it has a hiss in the left channel for about 5 minutes, which then goes away. Therefore, I leave it plugged in and on all the time (since it does not seem to consume much electricity when idle).I mailed the amp back to Tom at Classdaudio after first experiencing the problem. He sent it back to me with a note that they didn't find any problem with it. Unfortunately, when I received it back the same problem existed. In response to SCM's question, I received the amp back about 3.5 weeks after I sent it (I paid for priority shipping when I sent it). When I first noticed the tweeter distortion, my thought was that I over-drove the tweeter, so I purchased a replacement tweeter from the speaker manufacturer and installed it. But the same tweeter distortion existed. So, I connected other receivers and amps to the speakers and tried both the new and old tweeter, and the problem was gone, thereby identifying the issue as coming from the CDA amp.So while I was able to work around the initial hiss when power is connected (by leaving the amp plugged in at all times), the remaining problem of distortion in the high frequency range (when a track that also has heavy bass is being played at an above average volume) remains. Unfortunately, at this point, I somewhat regret the purchase and wish there was more that I could do to help fix the issue.
For years now I've been using this Smart Strip 4941 Energy Saving Surge Protector with Autoswitching Technology, 7-Outlet as a poor-man's relay. I have my DAC setup as the blue master on the smart strip, and my power amp (used to be SDS-470, now replaced by a TPA3116 amp) on one of the green auto-switched outlets.
Have any members here sent their Class D Audio in for repair/adjustment ? And if so, what was the turn around time ?
I would like to use a fix resistor on all of my amps and replace the adjustable gain. Is there a "consensus" for the value that sound the best??? or is it simply a jumper that sound the best???
resistance (ohms) versus gain (db)560 311000 302200 275200 236200 187500 16