RAD 10" sub kit available!

Brian Bunge · « **on:** 15 Jan 2004, 08:13 pm »

It seems that many people would like save a few bucks and assemble their own subs. So I've decided to offer my new RAD 10 sub as a kit available in various stages of completion.

Option 1: 10" driver, modified 150W amp, unfinished MDF enclosure w/grill and spikes for $425.

Option 2: same as option 1 but with all corners rounded and a black textured finish for $450.

Option 3: same as option 1 but with rounded vertical edges and veneered in oak, maple or cherry w/either a satin or semi-gloss finish for $525.

Option 4: Veneered and fully assembled and tested sub for $600.

This should allow those interested in such a sub to decide what level of assembly they are comfortable with taking on. Also, for aesthetic reasons we will be building round grills. This way it will not matter if the customer prefers their sub with all square edges, all rounded edges, or somewhere in between.

Please provide me with feedback.

P.S. This sub is available now. Simply call to place your order.

Beezer · « **Reply #1 on:** 15 Jan 2004, 08:42 pm »

Brian,

What are the dimensions of the enclosure?

Thanks,
Beez

JackStraw · « **Reply #2 on:** 15 Jan 2004, 08:45 pm »

Without a doubt, you've got a winner.

I think that I know what you mean by black textured finish, but can you provide more info and/or pictures?

Brian Bunge · « **Reply #3 on:** 15 Jan 2004, 08:54 pm »

The truck bedliner spray paint sold at Wal-Mart and auto parts stores. It's made by Duplicolor.

Here are a few pics of a sub I built about a year ago using that paint and solid cherry top and legs.

Brian Bunge · « **Reply #4 on:** 15 Jan 2004, 09:06 pm »

Oh, here's a pic of the demo Micros that we have playing in our shop. You might be able to see the texture better in this pic.

Brian Bunge · « **Reply #5 on:** 15 Jan 2004, 09:22 pm »

Oops, sorry Beezer. Just saw your post. The enclosure is a 14" cube.

JackStraw · « **Reply #6 on:** 15 Jan 2004, 10:38 pm »

Quote from: Brian Bunge

Oh, here's a pic of the demo Micros that we have playing in our shop. You might be able to see the texture better in this pic.

Neat. Any chance that I can see THOSE Micros for my Micro demo? I'm seriously thinking that your sub kit option #2 might be perfect for me.

lonewolfny42 · « **Reply #7 on:** 16 Jan 2004, 01:33 am »

Brian, Looks like a nice deal... and you covered all the base's with those options !! What tools are needed to build a sub like this and how long would it take ? Thanks !!

Brian Bunge · « **Reply #8 on:** 16 Jan 2004, 02:51 am »

JackStraw,

I could send you those, but the finish is not very good. This was the first time I used that paint and I sprayed it on way too thick on top. Also, I'd have to remove the wall mounts from the back of them, leaving a couple of screw holes in the rear. They sure wouldn't look very nice.

Lonewolf,

You mean what tools are needed to assemble the sub? A cordless drill with a Philips head bit and a Philips head screwdriver. That's it. I like to screw down the drivers until the screws are slightly tight with a cordless drill and then use the screwdriver to hand tighten from there. I usually just install the amp's mounting screws by hand.

lonewolfny42 · « **Reply #9 on:** 16 Jan 2004, 03:19 am »

Quote from: Brian Bunge

Lonewolf,

You mean what tools are needed to assemble the sub? A cordless drill with a Philips head bit and a Philips head screwdriver. That's it. I like to screw down the drivers until the screws are ...

Wow ! Thank's Brian , I thought a lot more tools were needed to assemble.

Brian Bunge · « **Reply #10 on:** 16 Jan 2004, 03:26 am »

It's a lot easier when you don't have to assemble the box, isn't it!:) I'll install the T-nuts for the spikes so all that's really needed is to screw in the driver and amp. That also assumes I remember to strip the amp's speaker wires for you. If not, then you'll need wire cutters and strippers too. But I'll probably remember that part unless I can get the amps modified and drop shipped directly to the customer. If so, you'd have to do that part yourself. If not, I'll have to do the mods myself and can strip the wires then.

Now if you want to actually try to veneer a raw MDF box...that's a little more complicated.

Hank · « **Reply #11 on:** 16 Jan 2004, 03:28 am »

And will you tuck me in bed at night, Mr. Bunge?

Brian Bunge · « **Reply #12 on:** 16 Jan 2004, 03:34 am »

Anything for you, Hankypoo!

Brian Bunge · « **Reply #13 on:** 23 Jan 2004, 06:44 pm »

I'm building a cabinet for someone right now and I've worked out the grill situation. It's got a round frame made of 3/4" MDF and press fits over the driver's thick gasket. It leaves about 1/8" between the back of the frame and the front of the cabinet so there are no issues with the grill vibrating under heavy use and you also don't have to see any ugly grill guides when you take the grill off.

I should have the cabinet veneered and the grill cloth wrapped next week. I'll try to get a few pics then to show everyone.

Carlman · « **Reply #14 on:** 23 Jan 2004, 07:28 pm »

Hey! I'm that customer and I must say it's been a real pleasure dealing with Brian. He even sent me a few shots of the 'work in progress'...

The background on why I contated RAD:
I bought the CSS sub with the 10" Adire and 200w Hypex plate amp... the cabinet was a mitre lockbox type.. and it didn't fit together right and the plate amp hole was cut poorly but, I figured I'd have it veneered to look nice and hide the issues a little better. Brian didn't charge a lot to veneer it so, I figured why not?

I had contacted Bob at CSS and wasn't satisfied with his reactions to the situation. In shipping, the plate amp had bent but, I'd bent it back fairly well.. not perfect but, close. Bob did offer a discount on future purchases and said he'd talk to the carpenter to make sure it wouldn't happen again.

So, I sent the cabinet to RAD and asked for Brian's honest opinion and whether he'd use it... the answer was the same as mine.. maybe but, it was up to me what I wanted to do. I asked what it would cost to just build me a new box the way I wanted it. He quoted me a new cabinet veneered, front-firing, braced, and with feet for another few bucks more. It was a no-brainer. (When I ordered the sub originally from CSS, it wasn't clear what I was getting.) However, it was clear now I was getting a great cabinet the way I wanted it. If Brian had any questions, he emailed me to get specifics. It has been a pleasure to deal with him. Full answers, I know what I'm getting, and I even get to see the process!

I didn't say the prices because I didn't know if I'm getting a special deal because I was so frustrated when I first contacted him... So, feel free to chime in on that, Brian.

I can't wait to pair this sub with my new speakers. More on that later.....

-Carl

Brian Bunge · « **Reply #15 on:** 23 Jan 2004, 07:40 pm »

Carl,

Yours was sort of one off type of thing since I don't have much desire to provide just cabinets for people. I'd much prefer to offer a sub kit with a prebuilt cabinet or a completely finished product. Since you had issues with the cabinet you'd already received and I needed an excuse to build a veneered cabinet with a grill I figured why not. Also, since I'm not having to put a finish on the veneer that saved me a few days worth of work and you a few bucks as well. And you're letting me keep the old cabinet to do with as I wish! Therefore, your price is unique since your situation is unique.

I figured it was a win-win situation for both of us.

mattybumpkin · « **Reply #16 on:** 23 Jan 2004, 07:40 pm »

Brian,

How many powered subs are you now currently offering, kits and assembled?

Thnx,

"M"

Brian Bunge · « **Reply #17 on:** 23 Jan 2004, 07:49 pm »

At the moment the 10" is available as a kit or assembled. I may also offer the 12" sub that I have pics of in my forum as a kit and very shortly I hope to have a completed, powered Tumult with the Hypex HS500 amp and built-in LT circuit. This amp includes full 4th order high pass and low pass Linkwitz-Riley filters as well as a quasi-parametric EQ adjustable between 20-50Hz. Basically it's the big brother to the HS200 amp but with the addition of the LT circuit. This design should be only 6dB down around 22Hz so I figure flat in-room response to 20Hz should be fairly routine. Also, the LT allows me to adjust the Qtc, which is set at .6. This allows for a very accurate sub when used in a music setup but also one that plumbs the depths for HT. And all in an 18" cube!

orthobiz · « **Reply #18 on:** 31 Jan 2004, 10:41 pm »

Lots of questions, hope I remember them all.

First, I like the example picture of the black subwoofer with the cherry top. Will the RAD10 be offered this way?

Also (and don't make fun of me guys, it's my first post on audiocircle), is that some type of passive radiator on the undersurface of the sub, or is that the black and cherry "one-off?"

I have a set of Dahlquists and the black and cherry will look great!

Finally, I haven't set up my listening room yet, but have borrowed a friend's ACI Titan sub to start. Any comparisons come to mind?

orthobiz · « **Reply #19 on:** 31 Jan 2004, 10:43 pm »

Also, I seem to be missing the sub on your website...is it up yet?

Thanks,

biz