RAD 10" sub kit available!

Brian Bunge · « **Reply #20 on:** 1 Feb 2004, 06:51 am »

orthobiz,

The cool thing about custom subs is that you can have it finished any way you want. Of course, it would be about $50 or so extra depending on what the cherry happens to cost at the time since the price of wood is constantly changing.

The sub in the picture actually has two passive radiators (one on either side) and a single, active downfiring driver.

I have heard the Titan II and it is a very nice subwoofer. It does offer greater connectivity flexibility over my sub. I have also designed this more as a small, but potent sub for small Home Theaters and two channel music systems. My 12" sub in the 15" enclosure would be more of a direct comparison to the Titan id output levels although I think the 10" would probably come close.

Also, you're correct in that neither of these subs is on my website yet. I'm totally revamping it at the moment and will have it up along with several new products within the next week or two.

Please let me know if you have any other questions.

orthobiz · « **Reply #21 on:** 1 Feb 2004, 06:20 pm »

...'cause I will! Thanks for the speedy reply.

I have Dahlquists, which don't have a lot of low bass in case you're unfamiliar with these vintage speakers. So, I'm thinking of two subs, will only use them for music, not home theater, and while I want a little more low end out of the speakers, I'm not a total bass nut. I will probably be separating the subs and speakers fairly wide, so I'm thinking two 10 inchers would fit the bill.

(1) Does this new 10 inch sub have passive radiators in it?

(2) What does a "modified" amp mean? Rather than the Parts Express approach where I might be able to buy any one of a number of similar amps with different wattage?

(3) What features on the Titan are not on your sub?

(4) I'll be hooking the sub to a line out, my preamp has two additional line outs, one for each channel, so I imagine I just need to
(a) hook it up to the sub with an RCA interconnect,
(b) decide on a low pass frequency (between 60-80 according to Regnar, Dahlquist's successor), and
(c) adjust the volume of the sub. It should also have an
(d) on-off switch, maybe a "standby mode"
(e) and some sort of phase switch.

One thing on the Titan that I don't seem to see much of is a phase knob that allows you to change the phase with more variations than just 0 and 180, but I don't know if this is necessary.

Thanks!

orthobiz

Brian Bunge · « **Reply #22 on:** 1 Feb 2004, 06:37 pm »

No problem on the questions. How else are you supposed to decide if the sub is right for you or not.

I like the use of stereo subs in a 2-channel system myself so these may do the trick for you. If possible, I prefer placing the subs just inside the speakers. If not, slighly outside the speakers will work also.

This sub does not use passive radiators. It's strictly a sealed design with a Qtc=.707.

The amp is a stock unit from Parts Express with 6dB of boost at 35Hz. I have modified the boost so that it's not as drastic and is at a lower frequency so that you get much better extension. In other words, I have modified it to work with this specific driver in this specific enclosure.

I'm not an expert on the Titan, but from what I remember it has dual adjustable crossovers that can be used to dial in a much steeper rolloff when using it in a 2-channel system. It also has a direct line in that bypasses these crossovers if you're using the crossover in a pre/pro. My sub simply has L/R inputs and you have to turn the crossover wide open to get it out of the usable bandwidth of the sub if you're using a crossover in a pre/pro.

If you're using full range outputs then yes, simply choose the crossover frequency on the back of the subs (60-80Hz should work fine) and then adjust the gain control for the appropriate output levels. The sub does have OFF/ON/AUTO mode and a 0-180 degree phase switch.

IMHO, if you place the subs close to your mains a simple 0-180 switch is sufficient.

I hope I've answered all your questions to your satisfaction. If not, then please let me know.

randog · « **Reply #23 on:** 1 Feb 2004, 07:09 pm »

Ooh, pick me! Pick me!

Brian, what is the best way to use these subs for both HT and 2-channel assuming the two systems are not otherwise connected?

Thanks,
Randog

Brian Bunge · « **Reply #24 on:** 1 Feb 2004, 07:30 pm »

Randog,

I think you lost me. Could you please elaborate?

randog · « **Reply #25 on:** 1 Feb 2004, 07:36 pm »

Sorry.

If you didn't have a 2ch preamp with HT bypass, but you wanted to use the sub(s) for both, could you? For instance, could you hook it up like REL subs: low-level input from the HT processor and high-level input from the 2ch?

Randog

Brian Bunge · « **Reply #26 on:** 1 Feb 2004, 07:47 pm »

I was wondering if that might be what you were saying but wasn't sure. The answer is no, not to my knowledge anyway. I'm not totally familiar with how the REL's do this. Can you describe, in depth, exactly how this works with the REL's? The sub does have speaker level and line level inputs. You could simply connect and disconnect the inputs based on which system you were using and simply re-adjust the crossover. It's not the most user-friendly approach but it will work.

EDIT: AH! I checked out the REL website and I see that they have separate gain for the high level and low level sections. I assume the XO works only on the high level connections and the low level connections expect the XO to be in the HT processor. Nope, my sub definitely doesn't do that. It is just a $600 sub after all.

orthobiz · « **Reply #27 on:** 1 Feb 2004, 10:21 pm »

On the Titan: I looked at the owner's manual and there are two low pass filter capabilities. Is that really important? I don't think most subs have it.

I would probably place these subwoofers (if I get two) fairly close to the speakers, so a phase switch will be OK.

Is there any easy way to explain what a Qtc is and what 0.7 v. any other number might mean?

What's a pre/pro (preamplifier...?)

Also, when using 2 subs, just plug the left output preamplifier RCA into the left RCA jack of the left sub? Leave the right input jack empty?

So, a kit with 4 spiked feet, black cabinet, cherry top, about how much? About how long...

Thanks again!

Brian Bunge · « **Reply #28 on:** 2 Feb 2004, 01:33 am »

The dual filters allow you to cascade the two together for a steeper rolloff. This is an added benefit if you need such a steep rolloff for your sub. It can sometimes help integrate the sub(s) with your main speakers in a 2-channel system.

The best explanation of Qtc that I've seen is provided here.

Yes "pre/pro" stands for preamp/processor.

It doesn't matter which of the inputs you use on the sub itself. You can use either or even add a y-adaptor and plug into both inputs.

Are you wanting an actual kit where you'd do the final assembly yourself or do you want a fully assembled sub(s) ready to plug and play? If in kit form where you do final assembly with the cherry top then you'd be looking at a price of $525 each. If you want it fully assembled then it would be $600 each. I'd say it would take roughly 2-3 weeks to have them ready to ship. That's assuming I don't have any issues getting the cherry and getting it glued up. I don't think it would be an issue though. My supplier is usually great at getting this kind of stuff to me in a timely fashion. [/url]

orthobiz · « **Reply #29 on:** 2 Feb 2004, 02:35 am »

and am serious about buying some serious low end, but I have yet to set up my room, am about 3 weeks away, will be trying a single Titan to start with.

I would also be interested, as you have already posted, in seeing a pic of the grille cloth idea (don't know how raw naked driver will appeal to my wife yet).

Finally, by the time I'm ready you might have the 12 inch sub idea completed. On the website it looks superficially like the Titan...

Thanks for the speedy replies,

Cherrytop Biz

Brian Bunge · « **Reply #30 on:** 2 Feb 2004, 02:40 am »

I should have a pic of the grill in a day or two. What 12" sub idea are we talking about? I've got a 10", 12" and 15" sub completely ready. Are you talking about the end table sub on my website? That's housing my huge 15" Tumult and is a real monster. It'll stomp all over mutiple Titans. Of course, it's more expensive as well.

orthobiz · « **Reply #31 on:** 2 Feb 2004, 03:51 am »

I guess it's the 15 inch on your website.

I'll definitely stay tuned and keep you posted...

biz

Brian Bunge · « **Reply #32 on:** 10 Feb 2004, 05:04 pm »

OK, here's a picture of the RAD 10 sub kit with grill and all. You guys let me know what you think.

orthobiz · « **Reply #33 on:** 14 Feb 2004, 02:33 am »

I still haven't set my system up, but I go back and forth about what I think I will need.

My latest idea is if we are so worried about spikes and stands and feet and cables and vibrations, why put the amplifier inside the sub just because it's convenient? Today I'm thinking about a separate amplifier of some kind, but I'm really not that close to buying right now...

What do you think of the audio quality of all of these plate amps? Does the woofer rattle it loose?

biz

Brian Bunge · « **Reply #34 on:** 14 Feb 2004, 02:56 am »

I've never had a single problem with an amplifier rattling. Outboard amps are a great way to go as well as long as you don't mind the added level of complexity. Unless you have an electronic crossover of some sort or your preamp has a built-in crossover then you won't have one with an outboard amp. You will also have to run an interconnect to the amp and then speaker wire to the sub. That's not a big deal, but it is an extra cable in your system. I've also never had any quality issues with the built-in plate amps that I use.