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would it be quite difficult for someone to build the cabinet and wire everything together if they have no experience in either wood working or audio assembly before? I can solder just fine and follow instructions, not totally new to electronics but this may be a bit tricky for a first timer. But line arrays just seem impressive
Another option would be to have a shop cut all the pieces for you and you would just assemble and finish the cabinets. DayGlowOrange does custom projects and flat packs of GR Research's designs. I have been considering asking him if he would consider doing a flat pack of the Symmetrica. That is the entire MDF cabinet cutout with his CNC router, all you would need would be glue and clamps. If there was enough interest he might consider doing it. I'm interested in doing a Symmetrica home theater with five Symmetrica's, but not looking forward to cutting and building five cabinets. If I can get someone to cut the cabinets for me for a good price that would be the way I would go.
What tools do you need?I would assume that you have to be precise with the cabinet so that it is airtight. That probably means my set up of a skil saw and pair of sawhorses won't workTom
I had some veneer sheets about 24"Wx36"L. Since the planars are in the middle, i could veneer such that the seams met over the tweeter line. This way i didn't have to glue the seams vertically on the sides. There is no roundover behind ... so i could trim the veneer with a flush trim bit. The only problem was the length. Since this is about 72" tall, i had to use join them bang in the middle. You can see the horizontal seam on the sides. It doesn't look all that bad, but still ... The roundover in the front is 3/4" ... and i wrapped the veneer around it. It wasn't bad at all. I used raw veneer, and it turned out quite okay.The base is attached to the speaker using tnuts and machine screws. The crossover is attached to the bottom of the base using wood screws. And the bottom is attached to the rest of the base using wood screws again! Its not straight forward, but i had to do it this way so that i could still have access to the crossover, and also remove the bases if i had to. I could not attach the base from the driver cutouts, so the bottom of the base had to be removable. I followed what christof and others had mentioned regarding finishing. I applied two coats of dewaxed shellac (sealcoat), and then 3-4 coats of waterlox tung oil finish (medium sheen). It turned out to quite nice. Though i now wish that i had a bit more patience and worked on sanding more before applying the finish. Its not as smooth as it can be, but i like to think that it has character