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Doug,s.This is why I said to start with one larger sub. Q's room is about my size with 21ft longby15 wideby 8.5 ht. He has other subs he might be able to use to balance the sound out etc. Larry
q, if yure lacking upper bass, then i would talk w/brian cheney about getting a pair of rm40's w/o any passive x-over at 166hz built in. run an active x-over, between the rm40's 10" woofers & the midrange ribbons, like the marchand, & set it at, say, 200hz... (or, spend ~$800 & get vmps' dedicated active x-over, as used on the ff2/ff3.) a while back, brian suggested something like the above to me. if ya still wanna run subs, get a three-way active x-over, & cross the subs lower, say 40-60hz... if/w ...
You really think that the change between 166 and 200 would make that much difference? OR, do you think that going active would be the key? If the diff between 166 and 200 makes that much diff, I'm sure it would be cheeper to get B to change the passive slightly. Frankly, I think its a combination of output capabilities (as in total area, and dynamics), and crossover points. This is why id like to have that sub covering the high range, cuz it would provide so much more capabilities in that critical area between 80-200. DO I have to worry about beaming at those freqs with such a large driver?
Mid bass suckout is a common room mode problem. Adding more power in the bass range with subs may just make it worse.A TacT RCS 2.0S or 2.2X is probably what you need. The Rives parametric EQ will do similar things in the analog domain.