[TF1216]

Hi,

I settled on these Cardas binding posts until I decided to build a 3-way speaker utilizing 3 separate cabinets per channel.
http://www.soniccraft.com/products/connections/bindingpost/cardas_cpbp.htm

Each driver's crossover will be contained in the cabinet with the driver.  I would like to have one pair of binding posts per cabinet.  I would also like the ability to bi-wire the speaker.  My last request is that the binding posts be mounted to a plate for easy disassembling.

Does anyone out there have binding posts they would recommend for this case? 

[zybar]

I went with these on some amps:

http://www.soniccraft.com/products/connections/bindingpost/cardas_ccgr.htm

I am very happy with them.

George

[TerryO]

Hi,

I settled on these Cardas binding posts until I decided to build a 3-way speaker utilizing 3 separate cabinets per channel.
http://www.soniccraft.com/products/connections/bindingpost/cardas_cpbp.htm

Each driver's crossover will be contained in the cabinet with the driver.  I would like to have one pair of binding posts per cabinet.  I would also like the ability to bi-wire the speaker.  My last request is that the binding posts be mounted to a plate for easy disassembling.

Does anyone out there have binding posts they would recommend for this case? 

Let's see, 3 cabinets, each with it's own crossover componets and binding posts and you want to bi-wire? If I'm not mistaken you've got 3 cabinets and 2 sets of wire, so something has got to give. I personally think that it's a waste of time, but you can run one set of wires to the mid cabinet and have a jumper from the mid to the treble cabinet, with the bass module having it's own wire.

I think for the effort that bi-amping or even tri-amping would, or may, be just about as easy and probably sound a lot better. Use passive componets between the preamp and the amps, they're a lot cheaper as they only have to handle the preamp's output. You can use smaller amps, which are often a lot cheaper and it would play just as loud.

Best Regards,
TerryO

[planet10]

These if you are on a budget http://www.partsconnexion.com/catalog/connectors.html (pxc site sucks, you'll have to navigate to binding posts yourself). You are lookin' for these (you'll need to rig your own mounting plate):



If you want to spend more, the Eichmanns.



Be wary of anything with too much metal.

I tried the Cardas you linked -- i hated them

dave

[TF1216]

Thanks for the replies George, Terry and Dave.

Terry your reply left me in a haze.  Are you suggesting to remove the passive xo from the cabinets and place them before the amplifier?  I have not considered this option.  I do like this idea.

From your statement it sounds like I could save money on crossover components, is this true?  To maintain the ability to run one channel or bi-amp seems like it would still involve an effort to mount the components in a separate cabinet with multiple posts.

Dave,

I do like those Eichmann posts myself.  I have read mostly glowing reviews of them but I have also spoke with someone who does not suggest them.  Do they sell mounting plates for those?

[alexcd]

Let's see, 3 cabinets, each with it's own crossover componets and binding posts and you want to bi-wire? If I'm not mistaken you've got 3 cabinets and 2 sets of wire, so something has got to give. I personally think that it's a waste of time, but you can run one set of wires to the mid cabinet and have a jumper from the mid to the treble cabinet, with the bass module having it's own wire.

I think for the effort that bi-amping or even tri-amping would, or may, be just about as easy and probably sound a lot better. Use passive componets between the preamp and the amps, they're a lot cheaper as they only have to handle the preamp's output. You can use smaller amps, which are often a lot cheaper and it would play just as loud.

Best Regards,
TerryO

Terry,  I've been answering some questions for tf121682 so far and am familiar with the project.  So far we've thought about putting all the passive XO sections in the tweeter cab, jumping to mid, jumpering to woofer.  This involves 6 sets of binding posts to maintain a biampable system later (high/mid & woofer).  What is currently being considered is separating the XO sections to get that number down to 3 sets of binding posts, prob never to triamp, but to reduce cost and easily jumper them all to the same amplifier or possibly biamp.

What I think you are suggesting is a XO between the pre-amp and power-amp.  This is a nice way to go if you don't mind designing an active XO and have 6 power channels.  i.e. Linkwitz Orion.  It truely is a great idea, lower distortion, no speaker impedance complications, and cheaper components (unless you buy really expensive opamps).  However, going with a power-level passive XO design that's been proven seems the way to go for him.

[whubbard]

Linkwitz Orion.  It truely is a great idea

I can vouch that and active system is a great Idea! It expensive, yes, but its wonderful. If you do it, just DIY 6 channels of amplification and that way you will save yourself some money, and have a system that is off the charts. I personally put the active crossover inside the same box as the 3 channels per side. It's a nice 'compact solution. All the toroids went in the box bellow.

(unless you buy really expensive opamps).

Woops 

Also, I used the Cardas binding posts and they are great in my system, but I have not compared them to anything else in my reference system, so I can't really say they are better or worse than other products out there. I can just say that I've had no problems with them. I also should add I have a bizarre preference to Cardas everything. 

-West

[Daryl]

I have a bunch of these...

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=260-314



Keep in mind they are absolutely huge and the spacing is not 3/4" so while they do accept bannanas they do not accept fixed dual bannana type connectors.

Each post is 1" in diameter and they weigh like half a pound per set.



Now these look cool...

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=091-624&ctab=13#Tabs



http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=091-620



http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=091-622



You'll need to use these plates with them...

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=091-602



http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=091-612



These are nice and inexpensive...

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=091-1247



http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=091-1245



http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=091-1246





I have some of these too...

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=404_120&products_id=1030



Not Bad, Barely visible in the image below (mounted on the inside edges of the wall hugging speakers).



These look decent, I was considering these for the sub/sat system pictured at the top of the post.

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=404_120&products_id=1029

[TF1216]

To supplement this thread I found another that is interesting for an inquiring reader:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=49103.0

Thank you for your suggestions Daryl.  I have experience with a few of the PE binding posts you linked to.  I have no complaints about them.  The reason why I decided not to use them for this project is simply because I want to spend more money on something different.  I am using high-end drivers in this speaker build so in my warped mind I *need* to spend more on binding posts, wire, etc.

I have come to the realization that a binding post is a binding post.  Sure, some cheaper posts could be awful to deal with but in my assumption, a decent post is as good as any other post, for a noobie.  I am going to mount some binding posts to a plate and experiment.  If I don't like them I will buy a new plate and mount some different posts.

Thank you everyone for your help.  As of right now, I am going to try the Cardas posts I originally intended on trying or the Eichmanns.  I like how each has a different look than the typical binding post.

[TomS]

It seems that, as usual, everyone has their favorites and not so favorites.  In my case I have all possible combinations - Eichmann's (low metal/mass), Edison Music Posts (medium metal/copper), various Cardas posts (medium metal), and topline WBT's (high metal).  Like most things it's a trade-off possibly of minimal differences in sonics vs. durability and flexibility.  I tend to favor the latter, as my experience with the robustness of both the Eichmann's and Edison posts has been disappointing.  I could post pictures of some bent up Eichmann's that didn't take much of a bump to do.  It also cost me almost $100 to replace a single bent post because you can only buy them in sets of 4 posts - ouch!  The soft copper in the EP posts is also very easy to strip.  I knew better and was very careful with them (hand tighten only!) and still experienced this problem more than once.

I now use copper or rhodium plated Cardas Patented Binding Posts in all of my builds and have been very happy with the result and compromises there.  From both a durability and useability standpoint they are first rate, and sonically I don't believe I'm missing anything at all in my system.  As usual YMMV.

Tom

[sts9fan]

Personally I think the Cardas Patented binding posts are the bees knees

[JoshK]

I don't use binding posts, I use Neutrik speakons, so I don't have a strong opinion but I have used cardas patented binding posts before and I do like them.  I think banannas are worthless and would only go with spades so posts I would chose only need to accomodate spades.

FWIW, I do like the speakons.  I currently have two systems set up to one pair of speakers with no bypass switching.  I simple change the speaker cables to the speakers and it takes me about 15-30 seconds to do both speakers.  They have low mass like Dave likes, are super convenient and have positive locking.

[TF1216]

May I ask a pair of questions?  How would one use speakons to either run a single channel per speaker or bi-amp?



Would this Dayton binding post http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=091-624 accept these http://www.soniccraft.com/products/connections/banana/wbt_0644.htm male connectors ?

[JoshK]

How would one use speakons to either run a single channel per speaker or bi-amp?

I am not sure I understand the question.  The standard speakon has 4 connectors inside (1+, 1-, 2+, 2-).  One can just use the 1+/1- if you want to replace red and black pair of binding posts or you can use both 1+/1- & 2+/2- if you want to biwire/biamp. 

[TF1216]

Gotcha, thanks.

[Mariusz]

I do not use binding post but these and Eichmann Cable Pod look like something I would use if I had to...............


Mariusz