[cryoparts]

Hey Dan,

I'm glad you surfed on over, welcome!  Like I told you on the phone today, this is a pretty good group over here.  Well, they used to be, before I started hanging out here.   

You know...I would actually like to borrow the Predator to use next time my lovely wife is in the hospital.  I sold my SR-71 (foolishly) and so have been using easily driven cans directly out of my iPod...it's just not the same.  I'll call or e-mail you about it soon. 

While you are at it, you can loan me your MBA, too.  Or, I'll trade you for a several year old Dell laptop.  Seriously...who wants a Mac anyway?   aa 

Peace,

Lee

Hey Lee,

Great to see we are dusting of this circle...it's been awhile. I need to catch up on what's been said and I'll be back later to post something. FYI: Not sure if you knew, but I did just pick up a Predator as well as an MBA to add to the "toy" box. I've really enjoyed them both but it's not like the home rig,ha.

Nice talking to you today. If you want to borrow the Predator for your hospital trips let me know? Our thoughts and prayers are with you guys.

Finish Well,
dan

[Burlaptocashmer]

Hey Lee,

You know where to find me. I'll have it charged and ready to go for you. Let me know? Hey, do you have any cryo'ed 6922 tubes laying around? I need to pick up a matched pair.

dan

[aerius]

Ray Samuels also makes some intriguing portable products, I used to have a SR-71, which did not have a DAC, however, he makes a similar model that has a built in DAC. 

Let's just say Ray's products are intriguing, and not in a good way.  It's been pretty much all downhill since the SR-71, the SR-71 sounds pretty decent, everything after that has been pretty mediocre at best.  The engineering & design hasn't kept up with the miniaturization and aesthetics.

At the moment I am running a Darkvoice 336i that I really like.  It seems like I have enough power that the K501s should be happy enough.  Forum reviews keep telling me the K701 is a better bass performer than the K501 but at the expense of smoothness and width of soundstage.  My other phones (AKG K240 Sextetts and Senn 555s and even my lowly PX100s which I also quite like) each have some characteristics of value.

The K701 does have a bit more bass than the K501 and is also a bit more detailed, however, I found it just sucked the life out of music and made everything rather bland, especially at lower volumes.  It has to be cranked to sound "alive", but that just makes the treble painful & unbearable for me.  Overall I like the K501 a lot more, I personally think AKG went in the wrong direction with the K701, it doesn't have the soul and midrange goodness of the older AKGs.

In terms of a single solution, the K340 is a good bet but there are several caveats: 1)it's long discontinued, 2)thanks to age, condition, and production changes, there can be a fairly large difference in the sound of each individual headphone, 3)they're starting to get bid up to higher prices than they're worth, 4)it needs craploads of amplifier power.

To me it's like the K501, but better in most ways.  The soundstage isn't as wide but it's a lot deeper and has more height as well.  It was my primary headphone for quite a few years until the recent purchase of a Grado RS-1, and even now it gets around equal time with the RS-1.

[cryoparts]

I'm going to have to get a set of K340's for my stable now.  Thanks for the heads up.  Should I try to find the newest possible set, or is there a certain vintage that is better than the others?  And, how do you tell them apart, any differences in drivers like the newer and older Sennheisers?

I was aware of the love/hate relationship with Ray Samuels products around the net.  I'm keeping out of it.  I made a decision a long time ago to never be one of those manufacturers who badmouths my competitors products, I think it's bad form.  Like anyone, I have my favorites, and I have a very SHORT list of those who's work I truly respect/admire.  But, ultimately, I remain respectful and try to be friendly towards my peers.
   
And, I really don't want this "circle" a place that becomes "Jack's Raging Bile Duct."  For me, that type of heated discourse just takes all the fun out of a forum.  Mind you, I don't mind a spirited discussion and I am very opinionated, but the BS spewed on some of the forums just makes me stay away.  AC supposed to fun, and an "escape", and I hope it can remain that way.

Please don't feel that I think your pointing out of the link to the measurements was bad, I would rather let the other sites be a place for manufacturers to trash each other.

Peace,

Lee

 

Ray Samuels also makes some intriguing portable products, I used to have a SR-71, which did not have a DAC, however, he makes a similar model that has a built in DAC. 

Let's just say Ray's products are intriguing, and not in a good way.  It's been pretty much all downhill since the SR-71, the SR-71 sounds pretty decent, everything after that has been pretty mediocre at best.  The engineering & design hasn't kept up with the miniaturization and aesthetics.

At the moment I am running a Darkvoice 336i that I really like.  It seems like I have enough power that the K501s should be happy enough.  Forum reviews keep telling me the K701 is a better bass performer than the K501 but at the expense of smoothness and width of soundstage.  My other phones (AKG K240 Sextetts and Senn 555s and even my lowly PX100s which I also quite like) each have some characteristics of value.

The K701 does have a bit more bass than the K501 and is also a bit more detailed, however, I found it just sucked the life out of music and made everything rather bland, especially at lower volumes.  It has to be cranked to sound "alive", but that just makes the treble painful & unbearable for me.  Overall I like the K501 a lot more, I personally think AKG went in the wrong direction with the K701, it doesn't have the soul and midrange goodness of the older AKGs.

In terms of a single solution, the K340 is a good bet but there are several caveats: 1)it's long discontinued, 2)thanks to age, condition, and production changes, there can be a fairly large difference in the sound of each individual headphone, 3)they're starting to get bid up to higher prices than they're worth, 4)it needs craploads of amplifier power.

To me it's like the K501, but better in most ways.  The soundstage isn't as wide but it's a lot deeper and has more height as well.  It was my primary headphone for quite a few years until the recent purchase of a Grado RS-1, and even now it gets around equal time with the RS-1.

[cryoparts]

No, not right now.  I can cryo some for you when I run my next load, if you'd like.  Too bad that none of my tube amps use that tube, we could do some tube swapping.

Did you get another tube buffer?  You and your tube buffers... 

Peace,

Lee

Hey Lee,

You know where to find me. I'll have it charged and ready to go for you. Let me know? Hey, do you have any cryo'ed 6922 tubes laying around? I need to pick up a matched pair.

dan

[aerius]

I'm going to have to get a set of K340's for my stable now.  Thanks for the heads up.  Should I try to find the newest possible set, or is there a certain vintage that is better than the others?  And, how do you tell them apart, any differences in drivers like the newer and older Sennheisers?

You gotta take them apart, the better version looks like this, the colors may be different though, I've seen red, grey, black, blue, and green so far.  Note the 4 large cutouts on the green piece in the centre, on the not so good version that plastic back is a solid piece without the cutouts.  To make things even worse, even if you find 2 of them with the same construction, they still sound different, I've heard 5 or 6 pairs now and though they all share the same family sound, the differences between them are about as big as those between a Senn 600 & 650, even more in the worst cases.

You might get lucky and end up with one that sounds the way you like on the first try, or you might have to go through a few pairs and end up modifying the damn things.  If you're unlucky it can be a truly frustrating experience.

[cryoparts]

Cool, thank you very much.  I'm going to do some research and plan to pick up some of these.  A new project, wooohooo!

Peace,

Lee

I'm going to have to get a set of K340's for my stable now.  Thanks for the heads up.  Should I try to find the newest possible set, or is there a certain vintage that is better than the others?  And, how do you tell them apart, any differences in drivers like the newer and older Sennheisers?

You gotta take them apart, the better version looks like this, the colors may be different though, I've seen red, grey, black, blue, and green so far.  Note the 4 large cutouts on the green piece in the centre, on the not so good version that plastic back is a solid piece without the cutouts.  To make things even worse, even if you find 2 of them with the same construction, they still sound different, I've heard 5 or 6 pairs now and though they all share the same family sound, the differences between them are about as big as those between a Senn 600 & 650, even more in the worst cases.

You might get lucky and end up with one that sounds the way you like on the first try, or you might have to go through a few pairs and end up modifying the damn things.  If you're unlucky it can be a truly frustrating experience.

[Burlaptocashmer]

Lee,

I am still using the Audio Horizon TB 5.0(n) buffer and it so amazing when combined with the North Star M192 Dac! I have the smooth detail and fat mids of the M192 the with a nice added touch of tube warmth and expanded sound staging to my all SS rig...  I guess purists would say,apart from impedance matching, that if you need to add a buffer you don't have the right equipment? Well, who cares, I love what it does and don't feel the added color or signal path take anything away!

Not sure if you heard this buffer in my headphone rig? Apparently, it was built (inspired by) the tube lushness found in the classic Marantz 10B tuner. Never heard one but it blows the doors off other buffers I have tried. I bought some used Orange Amperex ECC88's. As an SS guy I hate the thought of tube rolling but one day my SQ just didn't sound right in my rig. Everything had become lifeless over a few months of listening. I replaced the tubes with some more used tubes from the batch I had bought cheap off e-bay and the magic returned-big time! I now have to wonder what NOS tubes might reveal and if I am missing the full potential here with this used ebay mixed bag fair? I don't want to turn this thread into a tube discussion zzzzz but I was very surprised by the change when I replace the tubes.

FYI: My Ed9's with the RAL cable are fully burned in and I am soooo loving the sound despite all the "9" bashing that seems popular right now but, darn this...ehm.... "addiction" and reading too many forums (ha), if I am not lusting after L3000's and wondering if this is my next "Can"?

Finish Well,
dan

[cryoparts]

I forgot you told me you were using the AH tube buffer, glad it's working out well.  I've had a couple of conversations with the owner/designer of that company (Joseph, I think) and he seemed to be a really good guy.

L3000's, nice.     Have you heard them yet?  I'm considering getting a pair of W5000's in soon, we'll see. 

You should just give those 9's away, if they are not liked on forums, they can't be any good, right?    You know where the 9's would find a good home...  However, since they are no longer the FOTM, you'd have to bribe me, starting with a Starbucks.

Peace,

Lee

Lee,

I am still using the Audio Horizon TB 5.0(n) buffer and it so amazing when combined with the North Star M192 Dac! I have the smooth detail and fat mids of the M192 the with a nice added touch of tube warmth and expanded sound staging to my all SS rig...  I guess purists would say,apart from impedance matching, that if you need to add a buffer you don't have the right equipment? Well, who cares, I love what it does and don't feel the added color or signal path take anything away!

Not sure if you heard this buffer in my headphone rig? Apparently, it was built (inspired by) the tube lushness found in the classic Marantz 10B tuner. Never heard one but it blows the doors off other buffers I have tried. I bought some used Orange Amperex ECC88's. As an SS guy I hate the thought of tube rolling but one day my SQ just didn't sound right in my rig. Everything had become lifeless over a few months of listening. I replaced the tubes with some more used tubes from the batch I had bought cheap off e-bay and the magic returned-big time! I now have to wonder what NOS tubes might reveal and if I am missing the full potential here with this used ebay mixed bag fair? I don't want to turn this thread into a tube discussion zzzzz but I was very surprised by the change when I replace the tubes.

FYI: My Ed9's with the RAL cable are fully burned in and I am soooo loving the sound despite all the "9" bashing that seems popular right now but, darn this...ehm.... "addiction" and reading too many forums (ha), if I am not lusting after L3000's and wondering if this is my next "Can"?

Finish Well,
dan

[cryoparts]

I know of what you speak.  I am lusting after two amps right now:



http://onahighernote.com/luxman/?c=11&id=41



http://www.trafomaticaudio.com/experience_head_one.php

Lee

darn this...ehm.... "addiction"

[lonewolfny42]

Lee....

The DT990's are very detailed, have incredible bass and are generally pretty unforgiving.  The stock cable really holds these cans back, once re-cabled and run in, they sound fantastic with the right amp.

I've owned a pair of the 990's for awhile....don't really get to use them much.
Tell me a little about recabling them.....thanks Lee.

                                  Chris

[saisunil]

The HD 600's have better bass than the 701's, but are really open and airy on the top end, as well as pretty pure through the mids.  A re-cable and de-foaming is necessary, IMHO, to help remove the fabled "Sennheiser veil".  Many people prefer the 600's to the 650's as they feel them to have a tad more open mids and highs than the 650's--so they might be the magic bullet for you.

Lee

Hi Lee, I do have Senn 600 with Equinox cable - can you please explain the de-foaming process.

Thanks
Sunil.

[saisunil]

As part of my headphone journey - I did an article on comparing various headphone after requested by Stereo Mojo Editor.
http://stereomojo.com/FiveHeadphoneShootout/5HeadphoneShootout.htm

Different people like different music, different musical presentations and different headphones, so some people prefer Grado sound or Senn or AKG or Beyer or Stax hourse sound.
In my expereince, for the most part re-cabling of headphones makes a sure and definite improvement, unless of-course there are serious design limitations.

Of the bunch I tried, AKG 701 with Silver Dragon Cable were my favorites.
Just recently, I got another AKG 701 with Revelation Audio Labs cable. RAL cabled 701 have improvement in bass over the Silver Dragon.

I am currently working on headphone amps comparison ...

Cheers
Sunil.

[cryoparts]

Hey Chris,

The DT990 had a really mediocre cable at best, and it does not have a "Y" split and go into both cups with an even amount of wire, and uses a three conductor cable.  The stock wire goes into the left ear cup only and then there is a jumper from the left driver to the right. 

So...what I do is totally disassemble the cans and remove the stock wire.  I then craft a cable (with at least four conductors, usually more) with a "Y" split, drill a hole in the bottom of the right ear cup and solder the new wire directly to each driver.  So, now, there is an equal length of wire going to each driver.  The only downside to this is that now you have two small holes in the top of each ear cup where the jumper wire used to exit and enter.  However, one can plug this up with something if they wish...it doesn't bother me enough to find a suitable sized rubber plug.


This above is not as hard as it sounds, however, if one is not a experienced DIY'er, please don't do it.  You will ruin your headphones.     The wire that goes from the bottom of the solder tab to the actual driver is amazingly thin and damaged very easily while soldering.  VERY easily.  The new driver costs about $100...don't ask me how I know, and I've been soldering stuff for 25+ years.   





No, I don't generally re-cable headphones for others, so I hope the above does not come off as shilling, as I really don't offer this service.  I've done a bunch of them, but those were mainly my own and those of close friends.  And even then, with the "buddy discount", the re-cabling cost more than the cans did new due to ridiculous wire costs, labor (it takes a while to do it right) and "frustration" charge. 

Peace,

Lee

Lee....

The DT990's are very detailed, have incredible bass and are generally pretty unforgiving.  The stock cable really holds these cans back, once re-cabled and run in, they sound fantastic with the right amp.

I've owned a pair of the 990's for awhile....don't really get to use them much.
Tell me a little about recabling them.....thanks Lee.

                                  Chris

[cryoparts]

Cool, I'll try and read that today. 

I 100% agree, there are headphones out there that people rave about that I just cannot stand to have on my head for more than a few seconds, and I want to run from the room and flush my ears with alcohol after listening to them. But, each person hears differently, and values different aspects of the musical presentations, so who am I to say they are wrong?  This hobby is all about listening to products that make YOU happy and not others...or at least it should be.

What amps are you listening to? 

Lee

As part of my headphone journey - I did an article on comparing various headphone after requested by Stereo Mojo Editor.
http://stereomojo.com/FiveHeadphoneShootout/5HeadphoneShootout.htm

Different people like different music, different musical presentations and different headphones, so some people prefer Grado sound or Senn or AKG or Beyer or Stax hourse sound.
In my expereince, for the most part re-cabling of headphones makes a sure and definite improvement, unless of-course there are serious design limitations.

Of the bunch I tried, AKG 701 with Silver Dragon Cable were my favorites.
Just recently, I got another AKG 701 with Revelation Audio Labs cable. RAL cabled 701 have improvement in bass over the Silver Dragon.

I am currently working on headphone amps comparison ...

Cheers
Sunil.

[cryoparts]

Sure, it's really easy.  There are two pieces of foam that can be removed.  The first is the piece of foam that resides under the ear pads and sits over the driver, just gently pull the ear pads off the cups, and pull the piece of loose foam out that is sitting there.  Re-install the ear pads.  Do the same for the other ear cup, and listen.  Does it sound better?  If so, cool.  If not, re-install the foam.  Here's a couple of pictures of my 600's with the foam removed:




Some people cover the driver with panty hose or other materials, and one guy (Dan) used a Brillo pad which he had unwrapped and made a copper mesh covering out of (it looked pretty cool) to protect the driver.  I just leave the driver exposed.  No accidents yet.

The nice thing about the above "mod" is that it is easily reversible.  The below "mod" is not.  Well, not easily anyway.

The second piece of foam requires removing the grills and removing with tweezers the small piece of foam behind the driver.  I don't do this as I think the cans sound better with this piece of foam intact.  So I won't really go into the details.  There are some tutorials around the net, if you are so inclined to do this "mod".  Below is a closeup of the grill, if you look really closely you can see the piece of foam in the middle of the assembly, in the innermost concentric circle.



These "mods" were not made up by me, others with much more headphone experience than me discovered this stuff years ago.  So, I don't take credit for, nor encourage anyone to do them, nor endorse them--do them at your own risk.

Peace,

Lee

The HD 600's have better bass than the 701's, but are really open and airy on the top end, as well as pretty pure through the mids.  A re-cable and de-foaming is necessary, IMHO, to help remove the fabled "Sennheiser veil".  Many people prefer the 600's to the 650's as they feel them to have a tad more open mids and highs than the 650's--so they might be the magic bullet for you.

Lee

Hi Lee, I do have Senn 600 with Equinox cable - can you please explain the de-foaming process.

Thanks
Sunil.

[Burlaptocashmer]

one guy (Dan) used a Brillo pad which he had unwrapped and made a copper mesh covering out of (it looked pretty cool) to protect the driver.

Ha, it was actually the copper brillos (non soap version) under equipment for vibration control and copper mesh (in sheets) I got from Michaels for the Sen 650's cups.

People, Lee is crazy good at building cables, recabling cans AND designing some "top of class" power conditioners. His wire is better then anybody out there but it is pricy and worth ever penny. If you can't convince him to redo your cans, then at least try his cables or save up for his power conditioner(s). Sorry Lee, I know you would never shill anything but I can,ha. 

Finish Well,
dan

[saisunil]

What amps are you listening to? 

Lee

It is 300B based Woo Audio 5 headphone / SET Integrated amp - it is beauty in the beast!

Thanks for providing detailed de-foaming process of the Senn 600.

I'll try them.

Thanks

[cryoparts]

Woo Audio 5   

You're welcome on the "mod", some people love it, some hate it.  Report your results back, I'd be interested in hearing them.

Best,

Lee

What amps are you listening to? 

Lee

It is 300B based Woo Audio 5 headphone / SET Integrated amp - it is beauty in the beast!

Thanks for providing detailed de-foaming process of the Senn 600.

I'll try them.

Thanks

[ecramer]

Nice recable on the dt990s but couldn't you find  some black heatshrink