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However, using an op amp based output stage is not going to give the best results possible.
Ric,What you say are all valid issues and I'm sure most of us face those at one time or other. I did look for ways to make the signal path even shorter. At one time I contemplated using two CS3318 chips and two channels per output so I could go balanced straight through. But then you run into issues with the DC on the DAC output signals, they have a common mode of 2.5VDC. My choice for the LM4562 was not arbitrary, I'm convinced that this chip is at least as transparent as a good coupling cap if not more. Then there is the issue of board layout, of course. How do you do the signal routing, in which order do you run your grounds, to what point, where do you connect the digital and signal grounds and the output reference grounds etc. Mess that up, and even a straight wire will add distortion and noise!There's a few more but I don't want to give out everything Jan Didden
One can talk design or the like all day long (I know, I have...he he), but the only way to know if something is superior or not is to listen to it. Certainly, Jan's circuit is better than stock. However, there will be other modded DCXs, including ones from RAM and myself. Because this is the first modded DCX out there, does not mean it will be the best, or the best in your system. However, it is a very clever and elegant design and I am sure most Emerald Physics lovers would welcome it gladly over the stock unit. Well done!
George,Just starting on this. I am sure Jan spent weeks/months? on his circuit, sourcing parts, making boards, literature, etc. Just sourcing the parts I want will take weeks. What you want will be the "somewhat" all out discrete version with shunt output volume control, superclock, super regs, separate linear supply, etc. This will take some time. And the all out super versions (battery power, or external monster power supplies, Ultraclocks, wooden boxes?, exotic connectors, etc.) will take even longer. The first cheaper output volume controlled versions and versions without volume control on the output (for those using only analog in) will be done first (in a few weeks). These less expensive units will have one op amp or less in series with the signal. I would say late Jan. for a version that you would appreciate. I will probably first send it to Clayton and then to you. It won't be cheap (probably $2000 or more depending on jack options (WBT, etc.), etc. Mods will start at around $3-400. A unit similar to Jan's using one op amp and volume control and more would be around $700? These are pure guestimates.......I will have more actual pricing as I develop the mods.....which could change as I do listening tests.
aaaaanyway. Back to what the original discussion was about. We did try to run the Transport wide open through the stock Behringer, but after being spoiled by the modded Behringer, we couldn't do it for too long. It was simply too fatiguing and unengaging. The tweeter sounded metallic, the bass was shallower, the soundstage narrower and less rich, and the dynamics were not nearly as real as with the modded Behringer.I thought the stock setup was very good to begin with, and it still is. But it was shocking just how much better it could get. Ignorance may indeed be bliss.The absolute best sound was attained with the modded Behringer and Mike's Modded Squeezebox. The sound reached another level of speed and dynamics. So much so that I actually jumped at the start of the John Lee Hooker track (I can't recall which one). Even at low volume, the dynamics were simply amazing.I could listen all day to this setup. For the money invested in it, I think it is a screaming bargain. I would love to hear it up against a $50k + system. Needless to say I have placed my order for the Linear Audio Active analog I/O kit. I like the fact that it will fit inside the stock chassis, and I won't need a preamp. Oh, and it sounds phenomenal too.I think this is the beginning of something really exciting in high end audio. I look forward to Ric and everyone elses developments. Very exciting...
George, Mike and all CS-2 users,How are you guys connecting your analog output cables on the back of the Behringer? Are you using adapters or putting XLRs on one end of a cable.....or are you going out fully balanced? Seems to me that RCA jacks are a must on a modded unit, so many of us use RCA cables and some have spent a lot of money on them. Adapters are very compromised.
Quote from: Ric Schultz on 12 Dec 2007, 06:28 pmGeorge, Mike and all CS-2 users,How are you guys connecting your analog output cables on the back of the Behringer? Are you using adapters or putting XLRs on one end of a cable.....or are you going out fully balanced? Seems to me that RCA jacks are a must on a modded unit, so many of us use RCA cables and some have spent a lot of money on them. Adapters are very compromised.Damn, I didn't know that the DCX that comes with the CS2 has only balanced analog outs!!!!No wonder so many people are using "Pro" type equipment with these things. This is a PROBLEM for me and mine are due to ship today.
I am not generally a poster in Audiocircle but I have also purchased the CS2's and they will hopefully will be here before year end. Because of that I have been following the chat here on these speakers and Beheringer mods. I felt possessed to put up a post for those of us that are not electrical engineers, modding experts or wealthy tweakers. I would love it if one of you guys came up with a workingman's mod that does not cost more than $500 i.e. best bang for the buck. Isn't that what these speakers were supposed to be about? Many of us out here can only work in that price range without the wife going ballistic about how we spend our money. aaMy modest system will be mating the CS2's, stock Beheringer, four IRD monoblocks, and TAD150 Signature preamp. I am having my DH Labs interconnects re- terminated with the appropriate XLR connectors. I am praying this beats the Vandersteen 2Ce Sig setup I had previously. Thanks for listening/reading.shell_05@bellsouth.net
I would love it if one of you guys came up with a workingman's mod that does not cost more than $500 i.e. best bang for the buck.