[Paul_Bui]

8 PE's on the same circuit would be too much.  Let the other design gel.

PE II > PE > Open Duplex > PE > PE > PE > PE > Open Duplex > PE > PE II

We can deal with the remaining filters later in the week. 

As of tonight I am very happy to report that, by following your helpful and to-the-point instructions for the last 10 days, I feel that I begin to get a hang of what it takes to tune my home circuit to achieve a sound that's neutral, natural and to bring out the most/best of my audio components.  I am sure what I've learned is just a tip of the icerberg but it's good enough for me to be thrilled; it's really cool to be able to improve the sound quality in your audio circuit just by changing/tuning other non-audio circuits, all being on the same home circuitry.  More so, I have the following observations:

-  my fridge is running better:  cooler, more efficient, quieter with a PE sharing the same outlet.  A 193M does the job with more efforts and less effectiveness, and a PE II probably would do the same job a little better.  In my home configuration, it's best to install a PE there.

-  arc has vanished:  no longer I hear the annoying pops from speakers when my wife turned the switch on/off in the bathroom.  It seemed to me the PE's installed around the house have worked together to absorbs most of the arc.  The source (switch and receptacle in the bath) has even not been treated.

-  sound quality:  I chose to go for hyper detail circuit, and that's precisely what I've got, in line with what Alan said.  It's not the hyper brightness or whiteness that usually comes with more details.  It just has more resolution, cool tonality, expanded soundstage, excellent dynamics, and sometimes startling details.

The tuning will go on pending a few items that will be incoming within next couple weeks, but I very much appreciate Alan's patience, responsiveness, caring, audio instinct, and generosity in sharing knowledge in this fun hobby.

[zmanbands]

Back in thread 41 Alan gives examples of circuits one might find in their panel. He lists circuits on the left [all the same phase] and circuits on the right [on a different phase]. In the example the audio/video happens to be on the right side. In this tuning example you say you tuned the same phase. Are we doing only one phase with the audio/video or both phases Alan? BTW, nice work on your tuning. You are helping me see how to do this.

[Paul_Bui]

Back in thread 41 Alan gives examples of circuits one might find in their panel. He lists circuits on the left [all the same phase] and circuits on the right [on a different phase]. In the example the audio/video happens to be on the right side. In this tuning example you say you tuned the same phase. Are we doing only one phase with the audio/video or both phases Alan? BTW, nice work on your tuning. You are helping me see how to do this.

Sorry I probably didn't use the right terminology to describe how things work for me.  Please see my edited post.  In my example I actually didn't pay attention to different phases, just seeing the distinction between audio (upstairs bedroom) and non-audio circuits (one upstairs, several downstairs).  You brought up a good point, and I hope Alan will shed some light on the subject.  Thanks for your nice comments, but honestly most if not all credits should go to Alan.  Through his exercises I have more insights into my own home AC circuitry, and sometimes I naively thought that afterwards I could and would feel more confident to go help my audiophile buddy to tune his/her home sound system.

[alanmaher]

Treating both sides of the panel help keep the ground lines clean and highly recommend for added PFC, balancing, etc.

As mentioned before, The PE design goes on a search and destroy mission throughout the installed phase and eliminates arcing, spikes, RF, stray inductance, EM, and offers unlimited filtering with infinite tonal possibilities pending placement and selected model combinations.

[mercman]

Thanks to Alan and Paul for sharing the tuning process with us.

Steve

[Paul_Bui]

Thanks to Alan and Paul for sharing the tuning process with us.

Steve

Oh don't mention it, Steve.  Alan is the maestro here, the PE creator with tons of empirical experience on his back.  BTW, reading your messages and those of Robin, Phil, Dennis and others inspired me, a guy who came in later in this game, in the first place.  I just feel lucky that I let Alan take my hands and walk me through all this course of eye and ear opening lessons.

Did I say the stereo sounds very transparent, with a chameleon-like character depending on which album/track being played?  One album can sound quite ordinary, nothing oustanding except for an overall listenability; then the next album can sound extremely fast, high PRAT, holographic soundstage (accompanying instruments/background vocals being layered deeply front to back, beyond left to beyond right speakers) yet dead-centered imaging (solo vocals).  While I need to wait 5-7 days before things get stabilized, I am having no complaints as of now.

[Paul_Bui]

Paul

Our new Reference One filter might just be the meat you are looking for to develop the midrange frequencies.  The filter is very powerful and only 1 to 3 are recommended for the entire electrical phase.  I prefer to install the filter on non-audio circuits and choke circuits.  I like to install the choke at one end of the circuit and the Reference One at the other end.  You will experience two different tonal differences changes pending choke vs. non-a/v circuit.  I currently don't have any in stock, but I expect the case to arrive in the next couple of weeks.  The Reference does wonderful things to lower noise and enhance midrange definition.  The Ref One should not be compared with the PE series or PE IV, it is a different type of design and it works VERY well in choke environments, especially with the 193M...the two items have beautiful synergy.

Updates:  Six HBL5262's have arrived and 5 units have been installed ( 3 in computer room circuit, 1 in kitchen behind fridge/PE, 1 in family/PE II).  As almost twice as thick as the stock receptacles, they feel much more substantial and of higher quality.  Four HBL8200's are coming soon.  A Large Quantum Disrupter came in today and been placed on the breaker's door.  I will let them cook for a week and report any results, but I can't help it:  today's QD install has immediately tamed/reduced the roller coaster effects of turning off/on several circuits while installing the new Hubbell receptacles.

[zmanbands]

You go Paul. I have 2 shakti's on my main panel door that have been in place for 5 days. Other Shaktis are on the way for my subpanel as well. So far with only 2 installed, I'm stunned. This was to reduce brightness/brittleness in the upper midrange and lower treble. Well it is making everything sound soooo much better. I'll be writing more detail over the next couple of weeks as I put more in and they each fully stabalize for 10 days. Alan, my sincere thanks on the shakti recommendation. Anyone trying the ERS paper?

[Paul_Bui]

Alan, my sincere thanks on the shakti recommendation.

Ditto!  Glad to hear your good news and thanks for letting us know.  It's tempting to get another QD and stick it on the breaker door.

[alanmaher]

ERS rolls off the sound and cuts back on the dynamics compared to the Shakti Stone application. 

QD's add more warmth in comparison to the Stone, but doesn't offer the same dynamic character and sound stage imaging as you would get with the Stone in place.

Paul: One QD per system appears to be all that is needed before the life is completely sucked out.

Steve: It's a shame you can't install the Shakti On-Lines to the circuit wiring.  I like to add one On-Line to each end of the wire jacket....turns typical Romex x3 into audiophile grade mid-level power cords (the $500 to $800 price range).   Another option that works well is to Blu-tac a On-Line to the rear of the circuit breaker and install another one on the rear of the wall duplex.  This will provide the same effect and lower the ringing frequency of the duplex as a added benefit.....another one of those worth it's weight in gold tweaks.  This tweak can be done from the main panel to the subpanel and from the subpanel to the wall duplex....each stage is audible.  Keep the On-Lines in pairs for best effect when treating a/c applications.

[alanmaher]

How is everyone making out with the tuning techniques?

Check out the new DIY & Reference Guide information page on the web site.  I'm in the process of adding lossless download tracks for EQ set up, speaker set up booklet and reference tracks, raw instrument tracks, sound effects, and more....

http://alanmaherdesigns.com/DIY.aspx

More to come...stay tuned.

[michaelv]

Alan,
  Are those tracks on you site lossless?  i see them in format of wma but as i understand wma can be both? By the way, the speaker setup page is helpful. However, i don't understand the instruction on square room which i have. Right now, i place speaker in a diagonal line of the room. That means i sit in the corner. I have problem of missing the bass (weak bass) when setting up speakers in the normal type (rectangle).

thanks.

[alanmaher]

All tracks are ripped via .wma lossless.

Cardas goes a little nuts over room dimensions, but it's all good...he is in search of perfection...my suggestion is to use the link provided for the speaker calculator.  I set my ribbons using the dipole calculator and it works great...no muss no fuss.  Your main concern is the distance in between the speaker vs. the corner.  How large is the room?  Does it have to be set up on a diagonal or can we change it?  Getting the bass right is easy...don't worry we'll get it right.

[mercman]

Alan,

Thanks for posting the DIY & Reference Guide.   

Best regards,

Steve

[michaelv]

All tracks are ripped via .wma lossless.

Cardas goes a little nuts over room dimensions, but it's all good...my suggestion is to use the link provided for the speaker calculator.  I set my ribbons using the dipole calculator and it works great...no muss no fuss.  Your main concern is the distance in between the speaker vs. the corner.  How large is the room?  Does it have to be set up on a diagonal or can we change it?  Getting the bass right is easy...don't worry we'll get it right.

my room is 14.5 x 12.5 (in feet) . It does not have to be in diagonal. If i can get everything equally in rectangle setup , i would go for it. I read somewhere (could not recall where) that diagonal will help with small room like mine, so i decided to try. Bass is better but i think mid is some kind of recessed.

thanks.

[alanmaher]

Only if you have dipoles, it breaks up the rear wave.

Try this...set the speakers up normal.  Measure the height of the room and convert the answer to inches.  Multiply the measurement by .618.  This measurement will be the rear wall to the front of the speaker.  Next multiple the width of the room, convert to inches, by .276.  This measurement will be the side wall to the center of the woofer.  A lot of people make the mistake of measuring from the side of the speaker cabinet to the side wall, it is the center of the woofer you have to measure to and from.  This set up will get you in the ballpark.  Now read the speaker set up guide and scroll down to the focus and balance section that I wrote, follow the instructions and you should be able to easily dial in the node. 

Page 3

Note: For tuning, consider that the tendency is for lateral movements to affect the midbass and forward and backward movement’s effect lower bass and upper midrange frequencies.

Tip:  2 channel set up.

1.  Make sure both speakers are pointing forward into the room.

2.  Turn off one main speaker

3.  Sit on the floor one foot in front of the active speaker.

4.  While listening to a close mike recording, pull the speaker forward 1/8" at a time.  Pay close attention to upper midrange vocal reproduction.  The vocal should mimic a live vocal in the same room.  One suggestion is to sing along with the track so you could hear how your own vocal is reproduced in the same room.  Listen to how the room reproduces live sibilance sounds (s, sh, ch, t) in comparison to the speaker you are trying to adjust.  Continue to adjust the speaker forward/backward in small increments until the upper midrange reproduces the same sibilant reproduction as a live vocal.  Next, continue to move forward/backward and adjust bass information.  The bass should sound articulate with good foundation adding definition to the note.  Mix bass and vocal by adjusting the forward/backward placement until it becomes seamless.  This procedure is attempting to tune the woofer driver voice coil to the room node.  Do not be surprised the speaker needs to be pulled forward 1/2" to 1 1/2" from its original mathematical position pending the physical size of the woofer driver.  8" drivers will be adjusted differently compared to 12" and 15" drivers.

Next, turn off the speaker that was just dialed in and turn on the other main speaker.  A good tip is to swap interconnects at the amp input in order to reproduce a mirror image of the signal that was used to dial in the other speaker.


Focus:
 
Tip:  Hook up the interconnect cables to the correct amp channels and turn on both speakers.

After determining the general placement for upper midrange reproduction combined with deep and articulate bass, the next step is to install spikes under each speaker cabinet.  At this point do not worry about leveling each speaker; we are going to adjust the center image before final leveling adjustments.  Use a mono recording to help dial in the center image (see our DIY & Reference Guide for a mono track download). 

1.  Adjust both main speakers to cross their axis 12" behind the listener’s head at the listening position.

2.  Toe-In only one speaker (right) to adjust focus.

3.  Listen to the physical size of the mono Image.  The Idea is to shrink the size of the image as much as possible to the point where it can no longer be reduced.  Once you feel the image is as small as it can possibly go, it should sound like it is the size of a softball/volleyball, pull the speaker back a little and readjust the image size again to where you just reach the point where it can no longer be reduced in size and stop.     

Balancing: 

1.  Place a mike stand or broom dead center between the left and right speakers.

2.  Toe-in the other speaker (left) until the center image locks on to the mike stand.  Now the mono image should be the size of a small tennis ball.  Once the image is rock solid in the center of the two speakers, go ahead and level each speaker cabinet.

The first thing you should notice is that the center image is rock solid during a stereo recording.  The second thing you should notice is that the out of phase content of the recording (ambiance) is enveloping the entire listening position.  Soundstage depth, width, height, and placement will all improve.

Note:  Measure from the center of each speaker cabinet the distance between the left and right speaker after toe-in.  Measure from the front of each speaker to the listening position, all three measurements should be the same.  To be exact, each speaker measurement should end at the ear of the person sitting in the listening position.

[michaelv]

Alan,
  I roughly estimate the room and i think it's too close to the seating position. I take 14.5  converted to inch x .618 = 107.5 inches  equal to 8.9 or something. This is the distance from speaker to the back wall. So, i have only 5 feet left from speaker to the seating position. Unless my calculation is wrong, i think i should go with square room in your instruction , page 7 , diagram G?

thanks.

[alanmaher]

The ceiling height is 14.5 feet? 

[michaelv]

ah...you're talking about the ceiling height...   sorry..my mistake. I measure the length of the room 


now, the wall behind speaker is around 5 feet. However, if  i take the width (12.5) convert to inch and multiply by .447, the side wall to woofer is round 5 feet too. Do you mean that take the width x .276 instead?

[alanmaher]

Yeah...sorry   I edited the post.  This combination should work really well in your room.