What to fill speaker stands with

njdeadhead · « **on:** 9 Jan 2007, 05:38 am »

Hi I just got some new speaker stands and want to know what to fill them with. All I can think of is to put in sand.

-Brian

lonewolfny42 · « **Reply #1 on:** 9 Jan 2007, 05:54 am »

Most use sand or lead shot.....

Here's why......
"Along those same lines are those that advocate using blocks or stands filled with granular sand or tiny steel balls, something like ball bearings or buckshot. Loaded with this filling the mounts are very heavy. The granular makeup of the encased steel shot or sand injects millions of miniature surface-to-surface "transmission losses" to attenuate (reduce) entering vibrations. In other words, the multiple paths created by the granular material or shot allows the vibration to be dissipated evenly through each individual grain of sand or shotball, thus it never reaches your equipment or speaker above.

Again, the main goal is to reduce vibration from floor to equipment."

Russell Dawkins · « **Reply #2 on:** 9 Jan 2007, 06:33 am »

I imagine Sonicrocks would work real good:

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=22961.0

... but seriously, for what Chris is talking about, this "Micro-bearing steel fill" sounds promising, if not cheap:

http://www.starsoundtechnologies.com/micro.html

lonewolfny42 · « **Reply #3 on:** 9 Jan 2007, 06:49 am »

I didn't mention the "Micro-bearing steel fill"......but it can cost $39.00 a quart.....

A lot more than sand......(free sand on the jersey shore...

)

njdeadhead · « **Reply #4 on:** 9 Jan 2007, 10:46 am »

Dose any one know where a I can get some of the "Micro-bearing steel fill" in NNJ or NYC.

JLM · « **Reply #5 on:** 9 Jan 2007, 11:08 am »

I'd consider a mixture of lead shot and play sand. The smaller sand particles fill the voids between the larger pieces of shot. This provides higher density of fill and two different resonant characteristics that should compliment each other. Fill in layers starting with the shot and shake to allow the maximum "packing" effect. BTW the play sand is handy because its clean and comes in bags.

TomS · « **Reply #6 on:** 9 Jan 2007, 11:23 am »

Very Expensive, but at doesn't have lead. Clean, easy to handle and fill and empty if need be. I've re-used mine before.

http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=APOBYTE

DSK · « **Reply #7 on:** 9 Jan 2007, 02:21 pm »

Quote from: JLM on 9 Jan 2007, 11:08 am

I'd consider a mixture of lead shot and play sand. The smaller sand particles fill the voids between the larger pieces of shot. This provides higher density of fill and two different resonant characteristics that should compliment each other. Fill in layers starting with the shot and shake to allow the maximum "packing" effect. BTW the play sand is handy because its clean and comes in bags.

Don't use 'play sand' as it has a higher moisture content (unless you oven dry it yourself) and can harden. The moisture could also rust the insides of your stands (if that matters). Instead, you can buy bags of 'kiln dried sand' at hardware stores that is very fine and dry, always stays soft. Tapping my metal stands, before filling them, caused them to rrrriiinnnggg for approx 3 seconds. After being filled with kiln dried sand, there is a dull 'clunk' and no ring.

woodsyi · « **Reply #8 on:** 9 Jan 2007, 03:00 pm »

Has anybody tried fine gravel -- the kind that you can find cheaply at a building material store?

ebag4 · « **Reply #9 on:** 9 Jan 2007, 03:04 pm »

You can get lead shot from Bass Pro Shop if you happen to have those in your area. The shot runs about $1./lb.

mcgsxr · « **Reply #10 on:** 9 Jan 2007, 05:22 pm »

When I was using my Atlantis Reference stands, I used silica sand (intended for use with interlocking brick) that I found at a local building supply store. $15 for 50lbs...

Worked wonderfully.

Perhaps I should empty those stands, now that I don't use them anymore!

TomS · « **Reply #11 on:** 9 Jan 2007, 05:24 pm »

The Apollo Byte filler I mentioned above from Audio Advisor is small stainless steel discs probably salvaged from somewhere (think Michigan/auto industry). No rust, moisture, or handling issues. The stands are VERY heavy and dead when filled with this stuff (mine are Osiris 24's).

MAC - SteveH · « **Reply #12 on:** 24 Jan 2007, 12:49 pm »

I have Micro-bearing steel fill in Osiris-type stands right now. (that I'm not using) I do not use the stands anylonger and would be happy to sell that fill inexpensively. Only hitch - you need to pick it up. (too heavy) I live on Long Island.
Please PM me to discuss it. or contact me through my website- www.myaudiocables.com

Steve

audiosapiens · « **Reply #13 on:** 15 Feb 2007, 03:18 am »

Just an advice: Do not use silver kiln sand because it corrodes metal.

________________
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mtodde · « **Reply #14 on:** 15 Feb 2007, 03:23 am »

I'm using sand and it seems to work really well. I would like to try a combination of sand & lead shot as a number of folks seem to prefer that to using either by itself.

Scotty · « **Reply #15 on:** 15 Feb 2007, 05:49 am »

One of the simplest ways of making a speaker stand acoustically inert is to inject
the cavities in it with polyurethane foam sealer from a can. It doesn't add any weight to speak of and works great.
Scotty

diyaudiophile · « **Reply #16 on:** 22 Feb 2007, 07:46 pm »

My local high end stereo shop located a source for cut up nails. They are in tiny little fragments, like scraps. I think this stuff is free. He pours this into the speaker stands and seals up the hole. The are damn heavy but all mine are filled with this stuff.

Anthony
forum.diyaudiophile.net

Double Ugly · « **Reply #17 on:** 22 Feb 2007, 10:35 pm »

Quote from: njdeadhead on 9 Jan 2007, 10:46 am

Dose any one know where a I can get some of the "Micro-bearing steel fill" in NNJ or NYC.

Looks like Steve may have answered your question.

FWIW, I've used Micro-Bearing Steel Fill for years, and am very pleased w/ it. Given that Steve's offering is at a discount, I'd very seriously consider pulling the trigger.

-Jim

TONEPUB · « **Reply #18 on:** 25 Feb 2007, 05:16 pm »

Quote from: audiosapiens on 15 Feb 2007, 03:18 am

Just an advice: Do not use silver kiln sand because it corrodes metal.

Interesting. I was just unpacking a new pair of B&W 805's last night and they said to use
silver sand in the metal stands. They felt way too heavy to be aluminum, but I guess its
time to look for a magnet and see!

Daygloworange · « **Reply #19 on:** 25 Feb 2007, 05:57 pm »

You want to mass load the stands as much as possible. Foam will do some measure of damping, but not raise the resonant frequency much.

The rust issue is not a great concern. It's mostly just surface rust. Most stands are of sufficient thickness to last a lifetime or more. Even if there is moisture in the sand, there is very little oxygen which is needed to form rust. If you wanted to be sure, use kiln dried sand, and seal the ends with epoxy.

A couple of years ago, I auditioned 2 sets of ported 2 way speakers. They were identical except for the fact that one was a bookshelf, and the other was a floorstander. Both had the same width, depth, and internal volume. The floorstander had an empty cavity below that was filled with 90lbs of sand/lead shot mix. The difference between the bookshelf (on sand/lead shot filled metal stands) and the floorstander was quite a bit. I thought they were different speakers. The floorstanders were quite a bit better in all areas.

Make the stands as heavy as you can. I would also suggest, as an added benefit, to couple your speakers to the stands.

Cheers