[NewBuyer]

Just curious --

When I opened the TVC, I noticed the copper wires are tie wrapped. Can someone explain why the performance of the TVC is not affected by all of the wires touching each other?

Thanks.

My guess has been that since only the wires with a closed circuit (from the switch selectors) will receive/carry any signal, the unselected wire paths are absolutely inert to the signal-carrying ones and thus it becomes a non-issue... again this is just a guess though.

Hey, I see that the entire Two-Channel Circle has now been stuffed into the Archived section...

[jonners]

Just curious --

When I opened the TVC, I noticed the copper wires are tie wrapped. Can someone explain why the performance of the TVC is not affected by all of the wires touching each other?

Thanks.

Transformers are wound with enamelled wire, which provides the turns with (thin) insulation. So the lead-out wires are insulated, but you should be careful when handling them.

[NewBuyer]

Transformers are wound with enamelled wire, which provides the turns with (thin) insulation. So the lead-out wires are insulated, but you should be careful when handling them.

How thin is this insulation, and how careful do you need to be?


P.S. I wonder if the moderator could move this very popular thread, to the "Audio Central" Circle please?

[guest1632]

Just curious --

When I opened the TVC, I noticed the copper wires are tie wrapped. Can someone explain why the performance of the TVC is not affected by all of the wires touching each other?

Thanks.

Hi,

I thought that way too after opening up my TVC. Then I think of a layman's thought that because it is a passive preamp (no electricity goes through). So it is a matter of signal going through like a magnetic field. Therefore, you do not worry about why?

Hi, Well, you kinda do. It would be more correct to say that the TVC is not powered except for the small amount of voltage and current that is passing through it like your CDPlayer tuner or what have you.

Ray

[guest1632]

Transformers are wound with enamelled wire, which provides the turns with (thin) insulation. So the lead-out wires are insulated, but you should be careful when handling them.

How thin is this insulation, and how careful do you need to be?


P.S. I wonder if the moderator could move this very popular thread, to the "Audio Central" Circle please?

Enamel is a thin coat like paint. I don't know what Nick uses for the wiring of the transformers. He is currently using 24 gauge to wire everything else. He is experimenting with 22 gauge.

He winds the transformers by hand. That's pretty cool.

Ray

[NewBuyer]

Enamel is a thin coat like paint. I don't know what Nick uses for the wiring of the transformers. He is currently using 24 gauge to wire everything else. He is experimenting with 22 gauge.

He winds the transformers by hand. That's pretty cool.

Ray

Thanks Ray! If you want to join two pieces of enamel-coated wire, what would be the best way to do so? Would soldering be a good idea, or does this enamel coating cause problems?

[guest1632]

Enamel is a thin coat like paint. I don't know what Nick uses for the wiring of the transformers. He is currently using 24 gauge to wire everything else. He is experimenting with 22 gauge.

He winds the transformers by hand. That's pretty cool.

Ray

Thanks Ray! If you want to join two pieces of enamel-coated wire, what would be the best way to do so? Would soldering be a good idea, or does this enamel coating cause problems?

If you are splicing enamelled wire together, you would have to remove a little bit of enamel from the end of each wire and then solder the two together. That's all I know.

Ray

[Steve Eddy]

Thanks Ray! If you want to join two pieces of enamel-coated wire, what would be the best way to do so? Would soldering be a good idea, or does this enamel coating cause problems?

Most magnet wire uses a solderable enamel coating. However I wouldn't recommend trying to solder together two pieces with enamel on them. I'd recommend using a solder pot to strip the enamel and tin the ends, then twist them together and solder.

se

[NewBuyer]

Thanks Ray, Thanks Steve!

I wonder if StereoJoe received his TVC yet, and what are his impressions?

[StereoJoe]

Thanks Ray, Thanks Steve!

I wonder if StereoJoe received his TVC yet, and what are his impressions?

Hi NewBuyer,

I'm still waiting for the TVC. Hopefully is shows up this week, but with the speed our customs service operate one never knows 
I'll let you know as soon as it arrives.

Cheers,
 

[PromitheusAudio]

Hi guys

COuld not access the forum for a while

On the insulation it is a modified polyester type coating
THis acts as an insulator

On the wire, i just got some 7N copper and 22 gauge and will do a shootout to see how they work out. They will compare with the double strand silver and single strand.
Again i believe the 7n copper versus the double strand silver will be omission rather than fault

The power energizer can be done with multiple outlets of 15a if there is a need for it.

analogmart
Your preamp will be leaving to you very soon. It is done and i am going to run it in tomorrow

Also after many moons of constant asking for a different enclosure. I manage to get a chassis done with stainless steel.
Here are the prelim pictures

[acd483]

Honestly Nicholas, this metal enclosure is not a step in the right direction from a visual standpoint. I have no idea how it impacts the sonics for better or worse, but with my BFA in fine arts, I'd love to design the TVC for you!

P.S. I still haven't received the cones.

[rollo]

Hey Nicholas,
                     Good to see you back.One of our club members is using the TVC with his S/S McIntosh amp and Druid speakers.He is a VERY happy camper.Again job well done.How is the D/A project coming?Tubed output maybe?
                      rollo

[Early B.]

Honestly Nicholas, this metal enclosure is not a step in the right direction from a visual standpoint.

I agree. The stainless steel box with oversized gold label makes the TVC look cheap and utilitarian.

I think you should stick with wood, but offer a few different premium colors for the reference models such as natural, black, and walnut (for an extra cost, of course). A TVC made from the same wood as the ebony knob would look sweeet!!

[tanchiro58]

Hi Nick,

Would the stainless steel enclosure affect to the sound of TVC? Have you added any isolation between the trans and enclosure? It looks nice to me. Thanks.

[GHM]

How about a unit with smoke plexi-glass sides and stainless steel or better yet brass top and bottom?  It would match my Paradisea DAC quite nicely! aa

[Early B.]

The protruding screws also evoke a DIY look to the TVC. Is there a way to make them flush with the top panel?

GHM -- I also like the smoke plexiglass idea. I'd be the first in line to pay extra for it.

[Russell Dawkins]

Honestly Nicholas, this metal enclosure is not a step in the right direction from a visual standpoint.

I agree. The stainless steel box with oversized gold label makes the TVC look cheap and utilitarian.

I think you should stick with wood, but offer a few different premium colors for the reference models such as natural, black, and walnut (for an extra cost, of course). A TVC made from the same wood as the ebony knob would look sweeet!!

I strongly agree with both acd483 an EarlyB here.
Nicholas! Don't do this!
Perceptions are very important and good design need not cost any more to manufacture than bad design. Pay close attention to first reactions and feedback like this. I would look into acd 483's generous offer and at least communicate with him.

As for me, I would like to see a wood front and a wood and/or acrylic top bottom and sides. Even if you elect to stay with a metal chassis I like wood for the front with the least possible text - possibly "Promitheus" alone, or nothing - with "Promitheus" on the back. I would rather see a cryptic logo than a name anyway - much less an oddly spelled one. Why do you not spell it the way I've always seen it - "Prometheus"??
Finally, the front plate should be big enough and tight enough against the top and sides to hide their edges, plus the bolt heads in the top, at least, should be flush with the top surface.

All in the spirit of constructive feedback.
Russell

[Early B.]

Yeah, my comments are only meant to be constructive in every way. I have already stated how great the TVC sounds, so my only minor issue is the aesthetics. My wife loves the TVC, too, but she says the color doesn't match any of the other components. That's why basic and neutral colors work best.

If you're going to make a stainless steel chassis, I recommend using a full size chassis with a thick aluminum faceplate.

I also like RD's idea of a logo instead of the name imprinted on the front.

[acd483]

As a designer, I know there are many business owners out there very fond of doing their own work when it comes to naming, logos and industrial design. I hope I'm not too forward here, but I understand the necessity and impact of great design. You can charge more, owner pride...think Apple; nobody does it better. Often we spend more just for the look!

I'm not saying it (as in my "generosity") doesn't come at a cost, but often in situations like these, bartering is the best payment. Not only would it be enjoyable for me, but as we know, Nicholas's true strength is in his design of sound reproduction. His TVC has been fantastic, and I look very much towards his other products. Now it's a matter of creating a brand and a look. Too often, business owners are more wrapped up in the superficial than the substance. Thankfully, the TVC delivers on substance...in my opinion making it look great is frosting!