Man you have sharp eyes. You won't have any problem putting them together. 
You are correct... the picture and the diagram are different. It doesn't really matter if you attach the ground of the RCA to either Pin #1 or Pin #3 as long as you are using the correct Pin#1 to Pin #3 jumper when using it singled ended. When you are using it in balanced mode it also doesn't matter which you have connected although you could probably make an arguement it would be safer to have it tied to chassis ground hense Pin #1 on the XLR.
I'll make the change to the diagram to prevent further hawk-eyed builders from getting confused and thanks for the feedback!
Hi Kevin,
I was reading your excellent documentation, and I got confused around the same topic, presumably after you updated the diagram in response to this thread. Now, the diagram does show the RCA ground tab connected to pin 1 of the XLR, but the text that precedes the diagram still says "The RCA “GND” should be soldered to Pin #3." I presume that you definitely mean "pin #1"...
While I am nitpicking

, may I suggest that you add page numbers in a page header or footer? That would be convenient when printing the instructions (or talking about them with you).
Finally, being an absolute ignoramus, but foolishly eager to try, I was wondering if you could illustrate (photo) the bleeding of the power supply, which seems like a bad thing to get wrong. In particular, page 21, you wrote: "
Clip both the leads across the positive to ground and then the negative to ground connections on the power supply." Presumably, draining is done only from the DC output of the power supply (and there's no sense connecting the bleeder to the AC input connectors), right? And presumably, what you're describing is: (1a) connecting a clip to the positive connector of DC output 1 and the other clip to the ground connector of output 1, (1b) waiting some time (how long?), then (1c-d) doing the same with the negative connector of DC output 1, then (2-5) repeating with the remaining 4 sets of connectors? Replacing the bleeder's clips with those of a DC voltmeter (before and after) would then show a drop to 0... Did I understand correctly or should I just focus on software?
Many thanks,
Herb