Re-hooking up midrange panel

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic. Read 4502 times.

J Harris

Re-hooking up midrange panel
« on: 22 Oct 2005, 06:02 pm »
I've just got my midrange panel back from VMPS for one of my 626Rs...

re: hooking it up

Is the red/green wire positive? Does this go to the terminal marked positive on the front side of the panel?

Thanks in advance,
Patrick (J Harris)

BrunoB

Re: Re-hooking up midrange panel
« Reply #1 on: 22 Oct 2005, 06:39 pm »
Quote from: J Harris
I've just got my midrange panel back from VMPS for one of my 626Rs...

re: hooking it up

Is the red/green wire positive? Does this go to the terminal marked positive on the front side of the panel?

Thanks in advance,
Patrick (J Harris)


I was in a similar situation about 6 months ago. Brian kindly sent me  a new replacement  panel for my one of my 626R  (I damaged one of my panel while trying to clean the contacts).

If I remember correctly, the red wire is positive whereas the red-green is negative.

BUT!

How old are you 626Rs? According to the picture of your system, it looks like that you have an old spiral tweeter. You probably have  an old high impedance panel  in your 626R. Have you received a new  low impedance  panel with a 2 ohms resistor? I am asking because with the new panels, I had to reverse the polarity, otherwise, the speaker with the new panel would not sound as loud as my other 626R  which had still the old (high impedance) panel.  Eventually, I updated both speakers with a new low impedance panel for symmetry reason (both soldered with reversed polarity).

Bruno

J Harris

Re-hooking up midrange panel
« Reply #2 on: 22 Oct 2005, 06:49 pm »
Hmm, I do have a spiral tweeter.

I've hooked them up as you suggest though and the sound is even between the two.

Haven't checked for phase yet.

Patrick

Florian

  • Full Member
  • Posts: 493
Re-hooking up midrange panel
« Reply #3 on: 22 Oct 2005, 09:38 pm »
If it sounds good, its fine  8)

I like the 626 also a lot, i have one herr and actually like it more then the RM30. If you give them 8 feet to the frontwall they can potray a very nice and layered soundstage. A very good speaker in my book.

-Flo

BrunoB

Re-hooking up midrange panel
« Reply #4 on: 24 Oct 2005, 06:28 pm »
Quote from: Patrick

I've hooked them up as you suggest though and the sound is even between the two.

 Based on  your post, I don't know if you used reverse polarity or received a low impedance panel. Anyway, looks like you are OK.

Quote from: Florian
If it sounds good, its fine  8)

I like the 626 also a lot, i have one herr and actually like it more then the RM30. If you give them 8 feet to the frontwall they can potray a very nice and layered soundstage. A very good speaker in my book.

-Flo

It is unusual that you like the 626R better than the RM30. I have never listened to the RM30.

Would be very interesting to compare your 626R with my modded 626R one day. I don't remember how a standard 626 sounds anymore ...

Bruno

Florian

  • Full Member
  • Posts: 493
Re-hooking up midrange panel
« Reply #5 on: 24 Oct 2005, 06:38 pm »
Well you work in germany now dont you?
Just stop by again and i will carry the RM30's downstairs and the 626 so we can listen to them. I prefer the 626 since they have more body and magic in the sound. The RM30's to me are a little bit unbalanced. Everything from like 200Hz is wonderfull but everything below is not to my liking. I hope that this new technology Brian invented will help on that a little bit. The speaker has many wonderfull strenght but some weaknesses that distort the otherwise wonderfull images. So for me the 626 wins  :mrgreen:

Marbles

Re-hooking up midrange panel
« Reply #6 on: 24 Oct 2005, 06:45 pm »
Florian,

Can you get ahold of some 1" dowel rod, this is often used for hanging clothes in a closet.

If so, you can always add bracing to the RM30 to help with the <200 Hz tones...BH5 or whispermat for damping won't hurt either.

The dowels seemed to work well for my (previously) totally unbraced RM40's.

Florian

  • Full Member
  • Posts: 493
Re-hooking up midrange panel
« Reply #7 on: 24 Oct 2005, 06:47 pm »
Quote from: Marbles
Florian,

Can you get ahold of some 1" dowel rod, this is often used for hanging cloths in a closet.

If so, you can always add bracing to the RM30 to help with the <200 Hz tones...BH5 or whispermat for damping won't hurt either.

The dowels seemed to work well for my (previously) totally unbraced RM40's.


I think i can go ahead and add some more internal bracing. But if i add more bracing the free air in the chamber will change. Wont that effect the max movement of the drivers?

-Flo

Marbles

Re-hooking up midrange panel
« Reply #8 on: 24 Oct 2005, 06:56 pm »
I would think if you added a few dowels it would do more good than harm.

I'll defer to BC on how much is too much.  Per BC's past posts, he seems to ONLY like window bracing and does not like bracing like dowels.  My contention is that SOME is better than NONE.

I did not look inside my RM30 to see if any existed.

There was NONE as in no bracing in my RM40.

Florian

  • Full Member
  • Posts: 493
Re-hooking up midrange panel
« Reply #9 on: 24 Oct 2005, 07:02 pm »
Well i took my 30's apart to stop the anyoing rattling inside. And there is pretty much nothing inside. Some white stuff sprayed on the inside which i asume is this soundcoat and there was some fluffy stuff between the seperate chambers for the midragne drivers.

-Flo

ctviggen

  • Full Member
  • Posts: 5251
Re-hooking up midrange panel
« Reply #10 on: 24 Oct 2005, 07:12 pm »
I thought the new cabinets for the RM30s and 40s were braced inside.  Is that not correct?

Florian

  • Full Member
  • Posts: 493
Re-hooking up midrange panel
« Reply #11 on: 24 Oct 2005, 07:16 pm »
Quote from: ctviggen
I thought the new cabinets for the RM30s and 40s were braced inside.  Is that not correct?


Well i did get a RM30 for my customer which had the SR71 treatment and when knocking on the side of it, the sound was a lot more dark and solid. I think the new RM30's come with some sort of damping inside while the original 30's didnt.

I am just guessing this.

-Flo

KJ

Re-hooking up midrange panel
« Reply #12 on: 24 Oct 2005, 07:34 pm »
The RM30s were never braced at the factory in the past.  I believe the reasoning was based on rigidity of the narrow enclosure.  If bracing was added, it must be a somewhat recent addition.   Although bracing was discussed in many threads for the RM40s, I haven't seen any posts indicating it is a standard feature.

-KJ

Marbles

Re-hooking up midrange panel
« Reply #13 on: 24 Oct 2005, 07:36 pm »
Quote from: ctviggen
I thought the new cabinets for the RM30s and 40s were braced inside.  Is that not correct?


I know two people who got the MLS cabinets for their RM40's, that  looked for bracing but did not find it....

ctviggen

  • Full Member
  • Posts: 5251
Re-hooking up midrange panel
« Reply #14 on: 24 Oct 2005, 08:00 pm »
Oh, I had thought the MLS cabinets added bracing.  I'm going to order some type of damping material (Black hole 5 or similar).  When I install this (don't based on my "to do" list to get my house insulated prior to winter, this might not be a while!), I'll look for bracing and add.

CornellAlum

  • Full Member
  • Posts: 493
Re-hooking up midrange panel
« Reply #15 on: 24 Oct 2005, 11:56 pm »
I have been inside my 626 mls cabinets recently to add bracing if need be, and ended up taking a trip to the local store for oak dowels.  I honestly have to say, what bracing?  My blackhole 5 should be here this week for them as well.

CornellAlum

  • Full Member
  • Posts: 493
Re-hooking up midrange panel
« Reply #16 on: 25 Oct 2005, 12:05 am »
Quote from: Florian
Well i took my 30's apart to stop the anyoing rattling inside. And there is pretty much nothing inside. Some white stuff sprayed on the inside which i asume is this soundcoat and there was some fluffy stuff between the seperate chambers for the midragne drivers.

-Flo


That fluffy stuff comment is classic, thanks for that flo!  Glad to see you posting again as your comments are great!

ekovalsky

Re-hooking up midrange panel
« Reply #17 on: 25 Oct 2005, 02:13 am »
I think only the cabinets made by Dorne Dibble (RM/X and maybe a few RM40) were internally braced.  I seem to remember reading that Big B asked MLS not to brace the cabinets, but perhaps I'm wrong.  I'm sure he can clarify exactly which cabinets having bracing and which do not.

Having been inside the RM/X, I can confirm they had some window braces.  As I've said before it was an awesome cabinet.

Brian Cheney

  • Full Member
  • Posts: 2080
    • http://www.vmpsaudio.com
cabinets
« Reply #18 on: 25 Oct 2005, 02:26 am »
All mls cabinets have bracing.  They also have 1" or better HDF construction.  The mls 626 weighs 46 lbs, compared to the similar sized Wilson Watt at 52 lbs.

Marbles

Re: cabinets
« Reply #19 on: 25 Oct 2005, 03:14 am »
Quote from: Brian Cheney
All mls cabinets have bracing.  


Quote from: CornellAlum
I have been inside my 626 mls cabinets recently to add bracing if need be, and ended up taking a trip to the local store for oak dowels.  I honestly have to say, what bracing?  My blackhole 5 should be here this week for them as well.


One of my acquaintences confirmed tonight there was NO bracing in their MLS RM40.

So either my acquaintence and Cornellalum are lying, or they don't know what bracing looks like, or you are lying.

Since my acquaintence  had a friend of his put window bracing in, I assume he knows what bracing looks like.

I can't think of a reason for Cornellalum and my friend to lie about this....