considering the A/V-3 kit for my 2 front speakers

wackii · « **on:** 1 Sep 2005, 06:48 am »

Hi all,

I'm new here. I've been reading about the a/v-3 kit. I'm seriously considering the kit. But first, I have a few questions:

1. When will the new design with the ribon tweeter and the new XBL^2 woofer be available (if it already has,please let me know where can I find it)? How much more will the new kit cost compare to the old a/v-3?

2. If I decide to get the current a/v-3 kit that is on gr-research site now, can I switch out the tweeters with the ribons later on? Same goes with the woofer? Do I need new crossover for those?

3. Danny, how much is the shipping cost for the a/v-3 kit with the upgrade sonicap to California 90033? I would like to get an estimate to budget myself.

4. Any tips or suggestions for the project? Something like when building the cabinets, which side will I glue first? and so...?

Thanks in advanced.

Al,

Danny Richie · « **Reply #1 on:** 1 Sep 2005, 02:03 pm »

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1. When will the new design with the ribon tweeter and the new XBL^2 woofer be available (if it already has,please let me know where can I find it)? How much more will the new kit cost compare to the old a/v-

It will be some time around the first of the year before I get in the new XBL^ equipped drivers.

The RA/V-3 (A/V-3 with the ribbon tweeter) may be available in mid Oct.

I don't know exactly how much more it will effect the price as I still have to design the crossover for it.

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2. If I decide to get the current a/v-3 kit that is on gr-research site now, can I switch out the tweeters with the ribons later on? Same goes with the woofer? Do I need new crossover for those?

Yes, and yes, and you will need to change the crossovers to use the new ribbons.

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3. Danny, how much is the shipping cost for the a/v-3 kit with the upgrade sonicap to California 90033? I would like to get an estimate to budget myself.

$18.00 with insurance, ground UPS.

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4. Any tips or suggestions for the project? Something like when building the cabinets, which side will I glue first? and so...?

Cabinet building is not hard. If you order a kit, then I will personally walk you through any aspect of the build process.

Typically I put tops and bottoms on the side walls. Then add the rear wall. Then slide in all the braces, and the front baffle last.

wackii · « **Reply #2 on:** 2 Sep 2005, 01:36 am »

Thank you Danny for your help. One more question, regarding the future upgrade to ribon tweeters and the XBL^2 woofers, do I need to rebuild the box? or just the front panel? Thanks.

Al,

Danny Richie · « **Reply #3 on:** 2 Sep 2005, 01:49 pm »

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Thank you Danny for your help. One more question, regarding the future upgrade to ribon tweeters and the XBL^2 woofers, do I need to rebuild the box? or just the front panel?

The box size and the front panel will remain the same.

wackii · « **Reply #4 on:** 3 Sep 2005, 04:40 am »

Great. Thanks. And so the project begins...

wackii · « **Reply #5 on:** 5 Sep 2005, 08:08 am »

What will be the best tools to cut a perfect circle? I have a router but it's kinda hard to control it. I'm thinking of renting tools at Home Depot. What should I get? Thanks.

carlos spud · « **Reply #6 on:** 5 Sep 2005, 12:58 pm »

You need a jasper circle jig PE has em they cut circles PERFECT

HTH,Carlos

samplesj · « **Reply #7 on:** 5 Sep 2005, 01:23 pm »

Quote from: wackii

What will be the best tools to cut a perfect circle? I have a router but it's kinda hard to control it. I'm thinking of renting tools at Home Depot. What should I get? Thanks.

Like Carlos said the Jasper jig is a great way to cut circles, but you need to make sure it is compatible with your router or the ones they rent unless you are going to buy a new one.

Enjoy the 3s. I've almost finished up with my HT using the AV series and we are loving our 3s. After I get everything done I'll have to post some pictures and a more detailed set of impressions/user review.

wackii · « **Reply #8 on:** 6 Sep 2005, 08:04 am »

Thank you all. I have cut all pieces and the braces. What left are the holes on the front panel (the woofers and tweeters holes) and the back panel (the port and the speakers wire holes). I just need to confirm this before the cut the holes. Since I don't have the kit with me yet, I have no idea how it looks like. Questions below:

1. woofers hole = 4.875" diameter cut out right?
2. tweeters hole = 3.2" diameter cut out right?
3. ports hole = 3" diameter cut out?

My friend has a kit for cutting perfect circle (Dremel 400). Which I think will do the job for cutting these holes. I will probably have the cabinet built by the weekend. Hopefully, the kit arrived before the weekend so I can assemble the whole thing. Danny, I've just ordered the kit at 3:30am EST 9/6/2005. Do you think it will arrive here in California by friday? Thanks all for helping me.

Al,

Danny Richie · « **Reply #9 on:** 6 Sep 2005, 01:52 pm »

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1. woofers hole = 4.875" diameter cut out right?

This is correct.

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2. tweeters hole = 3.2" diameter cut out right?

This is correct in that this is the size needed for the body of the tweeter to fit down through, but you also need to cut a larger hole that is 4.1" in diameter and .18" deep to counter sink the tweeter. This has to be done.

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3. ports hole = 3" diameter cut out?

The port is actually a transmission line and the opening is rectangular shaped. See close up on page 3. The opening is 6.5" across and 3.25" high.

Spend the money on a Jasper Jig and you'll be glad you did. It cuts nice circles. Some of the circle cutters for Dremel and Rotozips are not real accurate with the circle cutting.

I'll get your order out today. There is a chance it will get there on Friday using ground service but no guarantee. It could get there on Monday.

jjb · « **Reply #10 on:** 9 Sep 2005, 02:35 am »

Long Time Fan of GR A/V-3 System. I built one of the first A/V-3 kits from Danny when just finished the design, I was floored back then with their performance, this past spring I built the new model and was WOWed again, get the black hole 5 or similar product your cabnets will be dead solid, sit back and enjoy their is nothing better out there.

wackii · « **Reply #11 on:** 10 Sep 2005, 06:29 am »

Fortunately, I got the kit so I'm able to assemble them this weekend. I need help on how to assemble them. This will be the first time that I'm doing this, I have no idea how to start putting the crossover together.

1. Where do I set the crossover after I assembled it? (on the front panel, back panel?). Do I glue it in? or put it on a scrap piece of MDF and glue it in?

2. To assemble the crossover, do I just need to heat up and solder the end of the inductor, sonicap and so on... Do I need some kind of lead to join them together or heating it up with a soldering gun is good enuf?

3. The kit that I received only have a/v-3 drawing diagram (schematic?). There is no intruction on how to start it. Am I missing something? Where can I find more info on how to put this together? I have no idea what is the green piece (Lynk 10w2r)?

Can someone direct me to site with pictures setup? Thanks.

Al,

Danny Richie · « **Reply #12 on:** 10 Sep 2005, 01:51 pm »

Al,

You have a lot of questions and will likely have many more. How about I give you a call later today. You can lay out all your parts and ask me everything you can think of. I'll walk you through the whole thing from how to solder to where it all goes, and then you can ask me some more questions...

Deal?

wshuff · « **Reply #13 on:** 10 Sep 2005, 02:35 pm »

I've had some of the same questions as Al while wondering whether a DIY project would be something that I could actually handle. The fact that Danny is willing to spend the time on the phone is great, but sounds like it might be a lot of work for him.

Danny, have you ever thought of taking a lot of pictures and writing a how-to to include with your kits? Maybe even video portions of the process and include a video showing how you go about putting the cabinet together, how you put the x-over together. A picture, as they say, is worth a thousand words. I'm not sure that there are enough words to accurately convey to me how to do some of these things.

carlos spud · « **Reply #14 on:** 10 Sep 2005, 02:46 pm »

Danny is very helpful, I am a complete noob at speaker building and i felt like the X/O for my kits from him(AV3s/AV1 HT) would be too much for me but if you start by laying out all the pieces for the X/O b4 you make any connections it makes things alot easier. i had never soldered b4 and have no electronics background take your time and follow the diagram as for mounting the X/O go to Home Depot and get some scrap high density cardboard or thin particle board and mount it in the bottom of the enclosure i have seen people use carpet padding to go between the cabinet and the X/O. I think Danny has some of the best customer service in the bizz keep it up Danny, and good luck with the speakers Al
Cheers, Carlos

wackii · « **Reply #15 on:** 10 Sep 2005, 05:29 pm »

Danny, thank you for the offer. Unfortunately, I won't be home today until late midnight. But if by chance that I'm home during the day, can I call you instead? Sorry that I have so many questions, I'm totally new at this.

Carlos, thank you for the tips. I will do just that see if it makes sense.

Al,

Danny Richie · « **Reply #16 on:** 10 Sep 2005, 08:49 pm »

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The fact that Danny is willing to spend the time on the phone is great, but sounds like it might be a lot of work for him.

Actually it is easier to call and chat about it than to spend a lot of time printing off photos that could increase the cost of the kit.

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Maybe even video portions of the process and include a video showing how you go about putting the cabinet together, how you put the x-over together.

That would be pretty cool but would also really add to the kit cost.

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A picture, as they say, is worth a thousand words.

That is why the wiring diagram is not in the form of a schematic. It is in picture form.

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But if by chance that I'm home during the day, can I call you instead?

You can call me anytime within a reasonable hour if you like.

wackii · « **Reply #17 on:** 11 Sep 2005, 09:20 pm »

Danny,

I figured it out what's going on after I lay out all the pieces. I just want to confirm on more thing though. The "Lynk 10W2R" = 2 ohms resistor, right? and the other "Lynk 10W3R3" = 3 ohms? Other than that I got everything down. Hopefully by next week, I can have them up and running. I cut all the MDF pieces, just need to assemble the cabinets. I took your advice and purchased the Jasper Circle Jig. Making a perfect circle every single time. It's a cool jig for my future project which will be the AV-3S for center and AV-1 for the surround. Thanks all.

Al,

Danny Richie · « **Reply #18 on:** 12 Sep 2005, 12:19 am »

I am glad you have it fugured out. I will still be glad to call you on Monday if you like, and you can go over any of it with me.

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"Lynk 10W2R" = 2 ohms resistor, right? and the other "Lynk 10W3R3" = 3 ohms?

10 watt 2 ohm and 10 watt 3.3 ohm, you got it.

wackii · « **Reply #19 on:** 12 Sep 2005, 01:16 am »

I'm good. Thanks. I'll definitely give you a call if I'm stuck somewhere. It looks like I got everything down. Just need to practice my soldering skill...cuz' I got none