New! DigitalAnalogueDIY.com - UcD 400 Amp Group buy project

ken_diyzone.net · « **Reply #60 on:** 17 Aug 2005, 03:27 am »

Hi dnewcomer,

No, I am not tapping holes, don't have the right equipment to get a clean hole. And yes, the cost is higher for the steel chassis. The steel are really nice, but just without pre-drilled holes for UcD.

The E130 does have more height, but the foot print is the same as the E100. So if you are planning to put a small tube preamp in the E130 chassis, Or, if you want to double up the PS and Tx to make a Mono-Mono UcD400 setup, then E130 is more useful.

Anyway, please let me know what options you wish soon, I am going on vacation next week, like to mail out all the kits before I go.

dnewcomer · « **Reply #61 on:** 17 Aug 2005, 12:11 pm »

Ken,

I will go with New E100 steel power-amp chassis with black faceplate, if still available. Let me know, and I will send payment balance.

thanks,

Derrick

woodsyi · « **Reply #62 on:** 17 Aug 2005, 12:59 pm »

Ken,

Let me have a E130 amp chassis with black plate and can you throw in an extra PS, a Tx and additional wiring for a dual mono set up. If you can tap holes for this set up, you will make me a happy camper. Let me know what, if any, I owe you.

Thanks

samplesj · « **Reply #63 on:** 17 Aug 2005, 01:42 pm »

Ken from the first post it sounded like you'd built one of these already. Did you find you had to have a softstart to keep fuses/breakers from tripping? Isn't 500VA right around the mark for requiring a softstart?

Does anyone else have any feeback about needing a softstart or not?

ken_diyzone.net · « **Reply #64 on:** 17 Aug 2005, 01:44 pm »

Hi Derrick,

I have one face plate coming in on the 20th (the last one), but not sure what color it is. Will you take a Silver face plate? If yes, please pay the balance and I'll mail out as soon as I get it. If not, we'll wait till Sat. to decide.

samplesj · « **Reply #65 on:** 17 Aug 2005, 01:44 pm »

Rather than have all of us email you and then having to respond individually woul it be easier to list the extras you've got from cancellations and the group buy participants costs?

I was getting ready to email you about an extra ps and tx too, but then thought maybe it'd be easier for you this way.

Jeremy

ken_diyzone.net · « **Reply #66 on:** 17 Aug 2005, 01:47 pm »

Hi Jeremy,

Yes, I have one in a E130 chassis, same PS, same Tx, same UcD modules, same wires. No popping sound when I turn the machine on/off.

ken_diyzone.net · « **Reply #67 on:** 17 Aug 2005, 01:59 pm »

Hi Woodsyi,

I need to send your original order out first, there are still couple of buyers who are undecided or have not read my email to them yet, so I can't say for sure what I have left over. I want to make sure I get their reply first before I start selling extra parts.

Sorry about tapping holes, I tried a couple of times but the result was not satisfactory using my equipment (or is it my skill, nah!).

carlos spud · « **Reply #68 on:** 17 Aug 2005, 02:06 pm »

what is the best way to tap holes in the chassis for the amp Ken?
Regards, Carlos

JoshK · « **Reply #69 on:** 17 Aug 2005, 02:16 pm »

I'll chime in with how I do holes in aluminum cases. My work is usually not the prettiest though.

First take masking tape and place it over the area you wish to drill. Mark on the masking tape your intended hole. The masking tape serves a couple of purposes. It helps keep the bit from "walking", which is to say sliding across the surface leaving a nice big gouge instead of penetrating the surface. Second it helps with burring. I don't always follow my own advice but times when i take the time to mask the hole I get much better results.

I use a drill press, but then I knew I was going to use it often so it was worth the purchase. I got mine for $90 from grizzly.com, but if I had to do it over I would have gotten one with a deeper bit to pillar distance.

If you are going to just use a drill there are guides that help you keep a perpendicular angle to the surface but I find them annoying and cumbersome. You might instead look at those little stands that turn drills into a mini drill pres. Free hand will yield pretty poor results.

ken_diyzone.net · « **Reply #70 on:** 17 Aug 2005, 02:21 pm »

Hi Carlos,

Measure carefully, using the PDF Hypex have on their website for exact location of the holes. Use a center punch to create an indent, and use a drill press to make the holes.

The holes on the bottom for PS and Tx are pretty easy, also, even if you missed a bit, since it is on the bottom, no one can tell. The holes to attach the UcD modules on the back is more delicate, since all 4 holes need to be aligned perfectly to have the heat sink "touch" the back panel flush.

All the kits are going out tomorrow via FedEx, I'll send each buyer a tracking number.

Regnad · « **Reply #71 on:** 31 Aug 2005, 04:12 pm »

I received the chassis kit I ordered and there are a few issues that I need help with. My email to Ken (about a week ago) and subsequent phone call have gone unanswered so far, which is unusual when compared to his previous prompt replies.

Just wondering if someone might help me out with getting in touch with Ken...

Thanks a lot for any help.

JoshK · « **Reply #72 on:** 31 Aug 2005, 04:29 pm »

He's probably traveling on business, as others reported not getting replies too. He's out from time to time but usually always gets back to people eventually. He has a day job like most of us and does his audio hobby biz on the side.

Anything that we the community can help out with?

carlos spud · « **Reply #73 on:** 31 Aug 2005, 08:05 pm »

I spoke with him b4 he left he assured me he would be in contact when he returned
Josh K sorry i never got back in touch with you I went another route
Cheers all, Carlos

Regnad · « **Reply #74 on:** 31 Aug 2005, 08:08 pm »

Thanks for the offer of help...

I am generally quite pleased with the quality of the chassis and parts but I have a couple of problems...

1. The keyed holes for the speaker binding posts are too small. I would enlarge them myself but need advice on how to do it and have it look as good as it does now.

2. Since the gold screws do not fit the small holes in the balanced input connectors and the matching chassis holes are unthreaded, I guess I will drill them out and use other hardware?

3. The gold screws are too long to secure the front panel. I guess I will find other screws or stack some washers?

4. What is the purpose of the white plastic washers?

Please do not misunderstand. I am not whining, just looking for suggestions. I expected this to be a kit where it all just went together. Have others had similar issues?

Thanks again for any help...

samplesj · « **Reply #75 on:** 31 Aug 2005, 08:23 pm »

Quote from: Regnad

1. The keyed holes for the speaker binding posts are too small. I would enlarge them myself but need advice on how to do it and have it look as good as it does now.

I had problems with mine until I looked at the locking bolt. They were really wobbly. However once I saw that the bolt is carved to fit the lip on the inside isolator it fit just fine. The keyed isolator goes on the outside and the groved isolator goes on the inside. Outside isolator is mounted with key to the chassis and flat side against the binding post. The inside isolator is mounted with the flat to the chassis and the lip to the lock nut.

Quote from: Regnad

2. Since the gold screws do not fit the small holes in the balanced input connectors and the matching chassis holes are unthreaded, I guess I will drill them out and use other hardware?

Mount the XLR with the flanges on the inside of the chassis and screw through the chassis into the connectors. It is a tight fit, but they do really fit. I wrestled this same thing last night. I finally looked at the pictures on Ken's site and figured it out.

Quote from: Regnad

3. The gold screws are too long to secure the front panel. I guess I will find other screws or stack some washers?

I didn't have a screw length issue with my front panel. I had it on for a few days hoping to get rid of a nasty shipping dent on the front of my chassis. It could be that the extra bend in my chassis makes them fit ok, but it looks like they would be fine even on a normal chassis. Unfortunately it looks like its time for the rubber mallet for me.

Quote from: Regnad

4. What is the purpose of the white plastic washers?

I have no clue. I thought they were for the feet, but it didn't work out to well for me. I just set mine aside.

As a different question:
Anyone want to post potential layouts of their cases? I'm planning on putting in a couple of S&B TX102 to make it an integrated amp so I'm trying to squeeze mine all in there tighter than just the normal amp. I'm wondering how much space is required for minimal interference between the tx, power supply, and the amp modules.

angelo · « **Reply #76 on:** 31 Aug 2005, 08:29 pm »

Quote from: Regnad

1. The keyed holes for the speaker binding posts are too small. I would enlarge them myself but need advice on how to do it and have it look as good as it does now.

i also bought a case (E130) from ken and the holes for the spkr binding post on mine are fine, can you post a picture of your case?

Quote

2. Since the gold screws do not fit the small holes in the balanced input connectors and the matching chassis holes are unthreaded, I guess I will drill them out and use other hardware?

the screws goes directly to the plastic balanced input connectors, they will tap by itself once you screw them, make sure the balance connector are inside the case and the screws are coming from outside. check the picture here http://www.digitalanaloguediy.com/entry130.html

Quote

3. The gold screws are too long to secure the front panel. I guess I will find other screws or stack some washers?

doesn't the screw just goes all the way in untill they secure, it goes to a threaded hole in front of the main chassis

Quote

4. What is the purpose of the white plastic washers?

mine didn't came with those, maybe for your front panel or the feet.

angelo

pixelpusher · « **Reply #77 on:** 1 Sep 2005, 12:42 am »

1. The keyed holes for the speaker binding posts are too small. I would enlarge them myself but need advice on how to do it and have it look as good as it does now.

Mine fit but there was no slot for the key. I used a square needle file to make a slot. This worked well and was easy to do because the aluminum is so soft.

pixelpusher · « **Reply #78 on:** 1 Sep 2005, 12:54 am »

Quote from: samplesj

As a different question:
Anyone want to post potential layouts of their cases? I'm planning on putting in a couple of S&B TX102 to make it an integrated amp so I'm trying to squeeze mine all in there tighter than just the normal amp. I'm wondering how much space is required for minimal interference between the tx, power supply, and the amp modules.

I mounted the boards vertically and off to the side so I can fit my equalizer board in. There's a lot of room in there. I put the transformer towards the front and close to the center. When I put the equalizer board in I could post a picture

Gordy · « **Reply #79 on:** 1 Sep 2005, 02:28 am »

Quote from: pixelpusher

I mounted the boards vertically and off to the side so I can fit my equalizer board in.

Excellent pixelpusher! If at all possible, mount those boards on the vertical as it'll allow air flow across both the top and bottom of the boards. This is probably all the more important if you're relying on using your chassis as a heat sink!