[cody69]

I'm planning a tower speaker arrangement with a sub-woofer located at the base and the speaker in the upper section. The network will be located in the lower sub cavity, requiring the wires for the speaker to pass through a panel (3/4" MDF) separating the speaker enclosure from the sub-woofer.

What is a good way to run two 14 gauge wires through the internal panel separating the sub and speaker, and provide a lifetime air-tight seal?

[jmimac351]

Hot Glue gun / stick works well for this.  Could also use RTV.

https://www.permatex.com/products/adhesives-and-sealants/adhesives-sealant/permatex-clear-rtv-silicone-adhesive-sealant-3-oz/

This is a picture of the top chamber of my Merlin VSM speaker.  This chamber is where the crossover and Esotar tweeter were mounted.  These are 2 of Danny's 16ga solid core copper wires.  The circle you see around it is where the hot glue had puddled from the previous wires being fed thru that hole to the woofer in the chamber below. 

So, hot glue about the diameter of a quarter and it will flow where it needs to and get happy.  Easy. 

The debris behind it is what is left from removing a large Hovland inductor that was in a paper tube.  That required a hammer and chisel.

So, don't go crazy with the glue either... 

[ketchup]

Polyurethane Gorilla glue. It expands when it cures.

[goggle1824]

Inexpensive latex caulk is also an option. It will likely remain in place better and stay more flexible than hot-glue (and far easier to undo/remove than any brand polyurethane glue - if you decide something needs changing in the future). That said, hot glue is the easiest and cleanest to remove /undo, and caulk definitely takes the longest time to set-up (of the three).

100% Silicone caulk or a premade silicone gasket or small wrap would probably be my choice for a lifetime seal in the scenario you describe. Just other potential options.

[Peter J]

If you're not looking for a permanent type of seal, I've used this specific strip caulk. I bought the box I have probably 20 years ago so, at this rate, it's a lifetime supply.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/v000074302/

[tremrej65]

If you're not looking for a permanent type of seal, I've used this specific strip caulk. I bought the box I have probably 20 years ago so, at this rate, it's a lifetime supply.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/v000074302/

That's a very good idea. A common name is "butyl tape". We use it on sailboat. It never gets hard and you can easily remove it (even after 40 years!).

[Peter J]

That's a very good idea. A common name is "butyl tape". We use it on sailboat. It never gets hard and you can easily remove it (even after 40 years!).

I've some experience with Butyl tape and this stuff is not quite like that. Curious, I checked out the ingredients listed. Looks like it's primarily Kaolin, which is clay, and silica, which I assume is a filler. That said, Butyl tape would probably work fine although, in my experience, it's very sticky and kind of messy to work with. This stuff is more like modeling clay.

[tremrej65]

I've some experience with Butyl tape and this stuff is not quite like that. Curious, I checked out the ingredients listed. Looks like it's primarily Kaolin, which is clay, and silica, which I assume is a filler. That said, Butyl tape would probably work fine although, in my experience, it's very sticky and kind of messy to work with. This stuff is more like modeling clay.

Oh. My bad. I thought your product was Butyl tape. And true that Butyl tape can be a bit messy.

[Tyson]

2nd the hot glue rec.  It seals well and is reversible.

[Rusty Jefferson]

There are also waterproof cable fittings. These allow you to pass the wire(s) thru with connectors installed and come apart easily.

https://dcpoweronboard.com/waterproof-fittings-thru-dex-series/

[goggle1824]

There are also waterproof cable fittings. These allow you to pass the wire(s) thru with connectors installed and come apart easily.

https://dcpoweronboard.com/waterproof-fittings-thru-dex-series/

😂 those are DOPE! Definitely delivers on the “Overbuilt” aesthetic!

The Butyl tape suggestion reminded me if this stuff: Duct Seal, might have an adverse effect on raw/unfinished wood but I would expect it would be fine for finished surfaces. Stays pliable for a loooong time. It’s like industrial Play-Dough.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-1-lb-Plug-Duct-Seal-Compound-DS-110/100212441?g_store=2807&source=shoppingads&locale=en-US