[Tyson]

I have a pair of LineForce cabinets shipping to me in the next couple of weeks, along with some new flat packs for the Double Trouble subs from Jay (captainhemo).

I want to paint them myself, but I need help.  Can anyone suggest best practices for painting?

For example, my Super 7's, all surfaces are smooth and it's somewhere between eggshell and semi-gloss.  I like it a lot.  That would be my first choice for the LineForce.

I already have some paint supplies on hand, like the Central Pneumatic HPLV gravity spray gun, and a Wagner Spraytech large painting booth, along with other things like a respirator mask and eye protection. 

I've painted a lot of walls inside my house, but I don't think those skills transfer here, lol.  I've also painted some metal guard rails for my stairwell and they are OK, but turned out a bit splotchy.  So, definitely a relative novice. 

Final question - do I have to do different prep work or use different primer/paint for the main cabinets which are a composite material, vs. the subs which are MDF?

[KTS]

Tyson,
I used the following process on my Double Trouble subs and cabinets, assuming you have flat sanded the assembled flatpack.
1. Apply one coat of Stix primer- this is a high build bonding primer that sands very smooth.
2. Flat sand with 120 and vacuum. I use a 14” auto body sanding board so everything is sanded flat with no ripping.
3. Wipe with a tack-cloth
4. Spot fill any low spots or visible seams with Bondo Glazing putty, using a Bondo spreader.
5. Flat sand using 220 and vacuum.
6. Apply second coat of Stix primer.
7. Flat sand using 220 and vacuum.
8. Wipe down with a tack-cloth.
9. Inspect and repeat steps 4-8 if needed, it probably will be good but check to be sure.
10. Apply a very light coat of Ben Moore Advanced with your sprayer  Caution- it will run if you get too heavy. Advanced is an oil encapsulated, hybrid latex, it cures very hard and it is available in Satin or Semi-Gloss.
11. Let it cure for 24 hours
12. Inspect and address any issues.
13. Hand sand with 600 grit and wipe with tack-cloth no need for flat sanding at this point of the process.
14. Repeat steps 10-13 again
15. Repeat steps 10-12 and it should be a cabinet grade finish.
I am not sure if this was what you were looking for, but this process is very forgiving and yields outstanding results.

I hope this helps, good luck on the build!

Kelly

[Tyson]

Kelly, that helps a LOT!  Thank you so much.  One follow up question.  Before step 1, you indicate the cabinets need to be prepped, I found this video about the prepainting prep process and plan to use it.  Let me know if you think it's a good approach:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b8mEUuX95dU

The 50/50 wood glue and water trick for sealing the edges seems particularly useful.

[nlitworld]

Hey Tyson,
I'll walk you through the whole process if you want to go full tilt boogie hot rod restoration level. Speakers of that over the top caliber deserve to be a show piece. Kelly's directions are solid (especially the repeat sanding and priming steps are a real thing) but there's a few specifics and materials to tweak if you do go with automotive paints. We can have some fun with this one!

What color scheme were you thinking of doing?

Also, for respirator you will need new cartridges, or if yours was the disposable one then just a new disposable. Those cartridges are good for about 40 hrs of use or 30 days, whichever comes first.

-Lloyd

[Peter J]

Kelly, that helps a LOT!  Thank you so much.  One follow up question.  Before step 1, you indicate the cabinets need to be prepped, I found this video about the prepainting prep process and plan to use it.  Let me know if you think it's a good approach:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b8mEUuX95dU

The 50/50 wood glue and water trick for sealing the edges seems particularly useful.

Tyson, I didn't look at the video, but the mixture of glue and water as filler or sealer is just woodworking lore as far as I'm concerned. Better products exist. It's rubbery to sand, does not fill all that well, swells wood fibers and was never intended for the purpose. Prep simply means get things flush and major removal of material out of the way. Prime first and it will show you where you need to fill and flatten. Prime, fill, sand. Prime, fill sand. Prime, fill, sand will get you where you want to go.

Kelly gave good instructions to achieve the desired results from easy-to-get supplies. Lloyd will be your guru if you want brilliant show-car finish with automotive urethanes. One of the keys with any finishing is don't rush. Let things dry and cure. Set realisic goals. To assume that it can be done "in a weekend" is folly.

[Tyson]

Hey Tyson,
I'll walk you through the whole process if you want to go full tilt boogie hot rod restoration level. Speakers of that over the top caliber deserve to be a show piece. Kelly's directions are solid (especially the repeat sanding and priming steps are a real thing) but there's a few specifics and materials to tweak if you do go with automotive paints. We can have some fun with this one!

What color scheme were you thinking of doing?

Also, for respirator you will need new cartridges, or if yours was the disposable one then just a new disposable. Those cartridges are good for about 40 hrs of use or 30 days, whichever comes first.

-Lloyd

I'm so glad you popped in here - I can definitely use the help .  One thing, I don't like gloss finish on speakers.  I really prefer a satin finish.  How does that affect things?  I figure I still need to get the surface prepped really well and also work through several coats of primer and then several coats of paint.  And then finish things off with a layer of satin PVC, does that sound right?

[Tyson]

Tyson, I didn't look at the video, but the mixture of glue and water as filler or sealer is just woodworking lore as far as I'm concerned. Better products exist. It's rubbery to sand, does not fill all that well, swells wood fibers and was never intended for the purpose. Prep simply means get things flush and major removal of material out of the way. Prime first and it will show you where you need to fill and flatten. Prime, fill, sand. Prime, fill sand. Prime, fill, sand will get you where you want to go.

Kelly gave good instructions to achieve the desired results from easy-to-get supplies. Lloyd will be your guru if you want brilliant show-car finish with automotive urethanes. One of the keys with any finishing is don't rush. Let things dry and cure. Set realisic goals. To assume that it can be done "in a weekend" is folly.

OK, I will NOT use diluted wood glue to seal the MDF edges.  Thank you for saving me from that mistake. 

So if I bring it back to the instuctions from Kelly, the Stix primer in Step 1 is sufficient to seal the MDF edges, is that right?

[corndog71]

You should just leave them bare. 

Then they’ll really surpass expectations.

[Peter J]

OK, I will NOT use diluted wood glue to seal the MDF edges.  Thank you for saving me from that mistake. 

So if I bring it back to the instuctions from Kelly, the Stix primer in Step 1 is sufficient to seal the MDF edges, is that right?

Yes, it will.
Something to understand here. Staying within systems and solvents will be your best bet. Two different paths mentioned. Really shouldn't mix and match unless you like unpleasant surprises. The Ben Moore stuff is an interesting hybrid, but still latex is the final coating and aimed at house trim and cabinetry. Also less nasty to breathe.  Automotive world has hybrids too, but typically urethane is the final coating. Good respirator if you value your lungs. Because it's formulated for the kind of exposure an automobile sees, it's in many ways overkill for cabinetry. But urethane clear coats can be applied thick, then cut and polished to a mirror shine. You can get flat and matte clears, but then you can't really polish them.

Judging from what you've described, I think the Ben Moore route would be best for you. The final finish will be "off the gun" meaning you're done when the last coat is dry. Prep is everything. Maybe Kelly could post a photo of his finish so you could better see if that's what you're after. And if you don't mind a little texture you could apply with a good quality weenie roller. It lays out pretty nice. I could post one of some house trim recently done for reference.

Unfortunately, paint is not just paint. Painting systems would be more accurate.

[Tyson]

Yes, it will.
Something to understand here. Staying within systems and solvents will be your best bet. Two different paths mentioned. Really shouldn't mix and match unless you like unpleasant surprises. The Ben Moore stuff is an interesting hybrid, but still latex is the final coating and aimed at house trim and cabinetry. Also less nasty to breathe.  Automotive world has hybrids too, but typically urethane is the final coating. Good respirator if you value your lungs. Because it's formulated for the kind of exposure an automobile sees, it's in many ways overkill for cabinetry. But urethane clear coats can be applied thick, then cut and polished to a mirror shine. You can get flat and matte clears, but then you can't really polish them.

Judging from what you've described, I think the Ben Moore route would be best for you. The final finish will be "off the gun" meaning you're done when the last coat is dry. Prep is everything. Maybe Kelly could post a photo of his finish so you could better see if that's what you're after. And if you don't mind a little texture you could apply with a good quality weenie roller. It lays out pretty nice. I could post one of some house trim recently done for reference.

Unfortunately, paint is not just paint. Painting systems would be more accurate.

Here is the look I'm trying to replicate.  Except in blue instead of off white. 

[BrandonB]

Tyson did you piece together all the parts to put together a lineforce?

[Tyson]

Tyson did you piece together all the parts to put together a lineforce?

I did.  I'm re-using the 8 mid panels from my Super 7s and I found 4 extra panels on eBay about 6 months ago.  The 32 tweeters I just bought from Danny.  And I'm re-using the bass drivers and bass amps from my Super 7s. 

[nlitworld]

Peter is 100% correct about paint being more a full system than just a simple coating. Couldnt have said it better myself. Much like building an analog vs digital system, you wouldn't mix a dac and turntable. Lol.

If you are looking solid blue color (no sparkled like a car finish) the the Benjamin Moore route will be easy on applying and your wallet.  It does sound like the Benjamin Moore route is more the look you are after to replicate the Super7 so that will be super clean looking when they're all done. If you were wanting anything other than solid color, you would be into the automotive paint realm and I would welcome you to the depths of the rabbit hole with me. 

[SoCalWJS]

Looking forward to your build!

Excited to see one more pair of Line Forces in the World! 

Sad to know there will be one less pair of Super 7’s 

Guess that will make mine a bit more Rare….

[Tyson]

Peter is 100% correct about paint being more a full system than just a simple coating. Couldnt have said it better myself. Much like building an analog vs digital system, you wouldn't mix a dac and turntable. Lol.

If you are looking solid blue color (no sparkled like a car finish) the the Benjamin Moore route will be easy on applying and your wallet.  It does sound like the Benjamin Moore route is more the look you are after to replicate the Super7 so that will be super clean looking when they're all done. If you were wanting anything other than solid color, you would be into the automotive paint realm and I would welcome you to the depths of the rabbit hole with me. 

 

Looking forward to your build!

Excited to see one more pair of Line Forces in the World! 

Sad to know there will be one less pair of Super 7’s 

Guess that will make mine a bit more Rare….

I will probably sell my cabinets, so there's hope someone else might enjoy them. 

[Tyson]

Does anyone have any guidance on painting the main cabinets, which are made of a dense composite material and not MDF?

[KTS]

Does anyone have any guidance on painting the main cabinets, which are made of a dense composite material and not MDF?

Tyson,
What is the name of the composite material? It can be slightly to dramatically different depending on the binder and materials used. I am excited to see the Line Force come to life!

I have not tried the wood glue sealer, but I don’t think it would add value. Peter is a pro and his recommendations are from experience, so what he said. Please don’t use spackle, it’s not about cracking it’s about flashing, too large particulate grit and will make the spots visible when the light hits it correctly.
 

[Tyson]

Tyson,
What is the name of the composite material? It can be slightly to dramatically different depending on the binder and materials used. I am excited to see the Line Force come to life!

I have not tried the wood glue sealer, but I don’t think it would add value. Peter is a pro and his recommendations are from experience, so what he said. Please don’t use spackle, it’s not about cracking it’s about flashing, too large particulate grit and will make the spots visible when the light hits it correctly.
 

Just got this info back from Jay - "It's a .8 gr/cc density poly tooling board.  Automotive primer/paint has issues adhering  to it."

[nlitworld]

Ok so that's actually not bad, you just need to use adhesion promoter prior to primer application. Something as simple as the UPol Grip4 aerosol HERE would work. One good coat and a 5-10 minute flash before applying primer and you're good to go. Since it is a poly (plastic) you'll need to use water based cleaners as well, not solvent based. Outside of that, and once you get a primer down, dealers choice on application preferences.

[KTS]

Just got this info back from Jay - "It's a .8 gr/cc density poly tooling board.  Automotive primer/paint has issues adhering  to it."

Sounds like nlitworld has you covered, the paint job on his NX Studios were exceptionally well executed. I have not prepped the material that is in question, I would need to perform some testing before I could make any recommendations.