[BrandonB]

How close is the quality of connection of aTube connector connection to a solder joint.  I was thinking of connecting my crossovers to the driver wire with tube connectors instead of solder so I can disconnect quickly without issue.

[KTS]

That is a great question, I would suggest leave enough wire to cut and install the tube connector, but try point to point at first. After you run them in try the tube connectors to see if you notice a difference. I don’t believe it would be noticeable because the tube connectors are low mass and good quality, but I have not attempted that configuration. Good luck!

[Early B.]

I think the benefit of disconnecting quickly overrides any connection quality concerns vs. soldering. 

[richidoo]

^ I agree, as long as your connectors are copper, or plated copper like tubeconnectors.

There is always some micro-arcing with any temporary connection, but you can eliminate that with contact enhancer.
MCT oil (or pure caprylic acid) is cheep and cheerful contact enhancer.

[S Clark]

Why not twist wires with needle nose, apply thin coat of dialectric grease, and cap with an all plastic wire nut?  Copper to copper connection, tighter than push in types, easily removed, very low cost.  Win, Win, Win, Win.   

[BrandonB]

^ I agree, as long as your connectors are copper, or plated copper like tubeconnectors.

There is always some micro-arcing with any temporary connection, but you can eliminate that with contact enhancer.
MCT oil (or pure caprylic acid) is cheep and cheerful contact enhancer.

MCT oil for my Keto and speaker wires 

[BrandonB]

Why not twist wires with needle nose, apply thin coat of dialectric grease, and cap with an all plastic wire nut?  Copper to copper connection, tighter than push in types, easily removed, very low cost.  Win, Win, Win, Win.

That's cheap and a good idea!

[Scott Joplin]

^ The next stage up would be wire wrap

[jmimac351]

If you're not certain you will be swapping any crossover parts out, I would solder the output leads directly, with some shrink wrap.  Look at the length you have coming out of the crossover... leave them long like that.  Leave some length for the driver wire hookups down at the crossover as well.  If you "must" remove the crossover, you will have enough length of wire for both the crossover output - driver input wire to snip / solder many times.

What's the realistic scenario for R&R the crossover routinely? 

The Otica crossover has too many parts for "playing with parts" activity, except maybe fooling with the tweeter cap.  But for that speaker, even in that case, it should get the best parts one is willing to pay for from the very beginning, such that there is no itch to "upgrade" parts down the road. Even if you do want to try something for the tweeter in place of that Sonicap, if you leave the wires long enough, you can slide the crossover out far enough to work on it.  That's how I'd do it.

[BrandonB]

The Otica crossover has too many parts for "playing with parts" activity, except maybe fooling with the tweeter cap.  But for that speaker, even in that case, it should get the best parts one is willing to pay for from the very beginning, such that there is no itch to "upgrade" parts down the road. Even if you do want to try something for the tweeter in place of that Sonicap, if you leave the wires long enough, you can slide the crossover out far enough to work on it.  That's how I'd do it.

I have great parts but eventually may upgrade.