[Wigand]

Hey guys,

doing a second XLS build. Basically for the enclosure I got all cuttings from a local hardware-supply. The cutting was free and they just charged for the material I bought. All cuttings were 28 EUR (which is the same in USD).

Crossovers I already assembled. They just need to be tied down as I forgot to buy cableties.

I will update this thread and eventually Update the crossover to some really nice components just for fun.

Also huge thanks to Danny and Hobbs. Order came packed super neatly. Now every driver has his own little box. So nice.

[Danny Richie]

Crossovers look correct.

Have fun with them and let me know if you need anything.

[Wigand]

Crossovers look correct. Have fun with them and let me know if you need anything.

Thanks Danny. Will update this thread in the next week(s).

[Wigand]

Ok finally some update; cabinets took way longer than expected as last time it was a build for a friend and I only assembled the crossover.

Just need to do some flush trimming and then on the sides a 3/8 radius. I was wondering what radius on the side the crossover design had in mind originally.

Also its so funny because I was originally building them to try them as a studio monitor and I saw Dannys Video today. Has anyone tried them for an application like that?

[Danny Richie]

Also its so funny because I was originally building them to try them as a studio monitor and I saw Dannys Video today. Has anyone tried them for an application like that?

They are often used for that application.

[Wigand]

Thanks for you reply Danny. Would a 3/8" on EACH outer corner be the optimum? Or what would you put there if smooth response is the only concern?

[Hobbsmeerkat]

Left & right edges are best if you're going to be veneering the box, sice you only have to worry about a round over on one axis.
 
If painting, you can do just the side edges or you can round them all over if you wish.

[Wigand]

Will paint these. Ok so there is no advantage doing also 3/8 on others than the sides?

[Hobbsmeerkat]

There is an advantage to rounding the top edge of the baffle as well in your case. Those are the only 3 edges that will have an impact on the measured response, the rest of the corners/edges will only be for aesthetic reasons.

[Wigand]

If anyone wants a challenge: try flushtrimming a pair of monitors in a Berlin innercity apartment haha

But finally they are done. Just need to put the radius on and mount the inner 90° bracings.

I am actually kinda proud that I build these without a flatpack from scratch

[KTS]

Looking good!

[Wigand]

All wired up now. Twisting the parts is always a little tricky.

Tomorrow I will solder them together and do final assembly.

[RMarshall]

Hey, thumbs up for building your cabs from scratch. I didn't even go with a flat pack. When I added up the cost of all the stuff (clamps) I didn't have, it didn't make sense. So just bought prebuilt. Painting them was challenge enough for me.

When you get to the cab painting part, there are some very kind and knowledgeable people here. Painting MDF successfully is a thing. I started a thread that I'm sure is still around here somewhere. Lots of good advice in it.

You're going to love those speakers when you're done.

Roger

[Wigand]

Yeah that costs definitely adds up.

But I wanted to build it from scratch and also shipping a flatpack to Germany is a pain in the ass.

So I remember it correctly that Danny suggested a minimum of 35watts for the encores. I bought a Topping LA90 for that system. Also excited for that piece.

[Wigand]

One more question. The top and back bracings I will put exactly in like in the plans. Would it make sense to also put on the bottom a mirror bracing in to the top and on the fron between the tweeter and woofer. Of cause not touching the radius behind the woofer. I added two pictures of how I imagined it.

I saw Peter in one of his flatpack videos do this.

Front bracing location:


Bottom bracing location:

[Peter J]

Wigand, as far as I know, I developed the bracing scheme using braces like you show. Technically, you couldn't "over brace" a cabinet, but at some point it could potentially eat up box volume. Probably more concern in a sealed design. I added the brace to the baffle because that's the least integrated part of the cabinet and also the most directly energized by mid-woofer.

One could certainly brace the bottom but I chose not to as it interfered with mounting the crossover. Optionally, one can damp the bottom with just the damping layer of NoRez. Lately, I've been using this foam because it puts less squashing pressure on the tie-wraps used to hold crossover components to board. That's just me being fussy, I suppose, but makes me feel good!

https://www.parts-express.com/Sonic-Barrier-AB-4-Sound-Insulation-Absorbing-Sheets-31.5-x-19.68-4-pcs.-268-048?quantity=1

[Wigand]

Thanks so much. Will do so and wanted to use your norez scheme anyways.

So I guess the front brace starts where the inner 3/8 radius of the woofer ends or did you put it even a bit more up to the tweeter?

[Peter J]

Thanks so much. Will do so and wanted to use your norez scheme anyways.

So I guess the front brace starts where the inner 3/8 radius of the woofer ends or did you put it even a bit more up to the tweeter?

Clear the radius for sure, outside of that it's really not critical.

[Wigand]

Thanks. Thought so.

[Peter J]

Something else I thought of, Wigand. I'd suggest you round the sharp corners on your braces. As I understand box acoustics, sharp outside corners create "hot spots" of refraction. Perhaps minor, but I'm all about the details.