[pierre.ch@outlook.com]

HI everybody, I am new to this forum. I am planing to built X-LS encore speakers and an FirstWatt F5 amp. Do you it is a good fit? It would be my first built for both, speaker and amp.

Tanks in advance.

[FullRangeMan]

Welcone Pierre 

[Jon L]

HI everybody, I am new to this forum. I am planing to built X-LS encore speakers and an FirstWatt F5 amp.

Welcome to the Circle

Have you listened to FirstWatt amps in the past?  Nelson Pass is a great man and extremely generous with the DIY community, but I must say I didn't really like the F5 (DIY) sound signature that much when I had it.  I tend to way more prefer the sound of Pass commercial designs (X, XA, etc), but of course, they are way more $$$. 

[FullRangeMan]

This predictable since F5 is a Mosfet Push-Pull with NFB but it have useful 25W.

[CurtisIIX]

HI everybody, I am new to this forum. I am planing to built X-LS encore speakers and an FirstWatt F5 amp. Do you it is a good fit? It would be my first built for both, speaker and amp.

Tanks in advance.

Ultimately it is going to depend on your listening level and the size of your room due to the 25W (8 ohm) spec side. The X-LS Encore have an impedance curve that is easy to drive with solid state electronics (8 ohm nominal, dip at 6.5 ohm), so there's no problem there.

On the FirstWatt F5 amp, you are going to have to pay attention to the power supply. You may not get great power supply rejection ratio, so some of the ripple on the DC supplies will make to the speaker outputs. This could become an issue with very sensitive speakers. However, the X-LS encores have a typical sensitivity for speaker this size, and there are plenty of power supply options on DIYaudio (official store, group buys, individual user's web storefronts). The Universal Power Supply from the store does have lots of space for big caps, and it has a build thread.

Have you considered building a Modulus-86 from Neurochome? It operates in class AB at a slightly higher output (40W 8 ohm). It is easy to build with great documentation. I built this as my first amp. It gave me the confidence to later build a DIY FirstWatt VFET amp; the F5 does look easier than the VFET though.

[pierre.ch@outlook.com]

Hi I never heard any FirstWatt's. I had a Quad 303-33 for many years and miss a good sound.  I chose F5 because it seems easy to built and parts are available. For the PS I am heading for the one showed in the F5 usen manual and V3 board DIYaudio store.  I read the DIYaudio PS guide and some treads and I am planning to add tuned RC snubber as described in the PSU parts list (http://www.hagtech.com/pdf/snubber.pdf) and hope this will reduce noise.

I am in a small room, i like to listen music not too loud but wish to hear all the details.

Am I in the right direction?

Many Thanks!

[maty]

https://www.doctorproaudio.com/content.php?2273-calculators-proaudio-sound-dmx&langid=1#calc_spl

Forgive the F5 with X-LS Encore. Better an amplifier with 50 watts at 8 Ohms, 0.1% THD. Calcs with each loudspeaker at 3 meters to you, and music recordings with high dynamic range (DR).

[pierre.ch@outlook.com]

I will make some more research then.  If someone of you could point me to a DIY amp that sound like HiFi at a reasonable price point, I would really appreciate.

I am looking more for sound quality than sound level.

Thanks guys

[richidoo]

While they are fun to build, and have sexy class A tonality and a cult cache, I don't know anybody who sticks with First Watt long term. ymmv

The Neurochrome "Modulus-86" is an excellent DIY amp. Well engineered, well proven, excellent assembly instructions and support. Extremely low distortion and extremely detailed. Tonal character is dry. It's easy to build a stereo amp way under $1000. Few commercial amps under $5000 sound as good. Definitely "high end."

[maty]

You would have to indicate what kind of music you listen to, the listening distance ...

How much do you want to spend? Give the impression that it would be your first DIY. If so, you need one that is very well documented and does not require excessive skills. NA, Europe... ?

[maty]

BTW, some ideas

Amplification ideas to GR-Research NX-Studio
https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=167210.0

[pierre.ch@outlook.com]

Hi, I listen mainly to classical music, a bit of jazz, soft rock and new age oldies. I am 50 and still love to listen my old record from my teen age. Listening distance is 10 ft. I have a low budget and prefer to have good parts and good design inside an old ugly case than have shiny case with distortion.  There is too much to read I do not know where to start so I will go read the links you gave me and fore sure read about the Neuchrome modulus 86.

Yes it is my first built, I am not afraid by soldering drilling, assembling etc, but I do be afraid to do mistakes and burn stuff.  I am an electrical engineer(high voltage) who know nothing in audio but strong will to learn, and yes I would really appreciate assembly instruction and support.

I live in Montreal, Canada.

Thanks for your help, it really appreciated !  This site and peoples participating are great!


 

[roscoe65]

I don’t recall seeing what else you have in your system.  I will work backward:

1.  If you are building the XLS Encore I would strongly recommend these options:
     
- Get the standard crossover upgrade (Sonicaps, Mills, Inductors).  Spend the extra $40 or $50 for MiFlex bypass caps on the tweeters.
- Use No-Rez and a small amount of fiber fill right behind the midbass driver.
- Get the Tube Connectors.  I would also add a pair of five-way binding posts in parallel for flexibility with cables.
- Build the SLS (Tower) version.  Seriously.  It is a little more for wire, twice as much No Rez, more for the cabinet and paint, but the midbass driver is better in this larger cabinet and you won’t need speaker stands.  The bookshelf version is good, but IMO sounds better with socks stuffed in the ports.

2.  I cannot recommend a beginner SS kit for these speakers.  I think if you will get your best bang-for-the-buck with a secondhand solid state integrated.  I like the Rega Brio R and models from Exposure.  You can also luck out with a YPA Integre.

[FullRangeMan]

I will make some more research then.  If someone of you could point me to a DIY amp that sound like HiFi at a reasonable price point, I would really appreciate.

I am looking more for sound quality than sound level.

Thanks guys

Unfortunately its hard to find a Single Ended Transistor amp, in this case I could look a Class D amp, usually they are transparent amps plenty of bass what will match well with Classical and Jazz.

[maty]

https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/gr-research-x-ls-encore-kit-speaker-review.14957/





Sensitivity: 84.4 dB at 8 Ohms. Min impedance: 6.5 Ohms. 60 Hz at -3 dB.

3 meters -> we need 50 watts at 8 Ohms, THD+N 0.1%

One LM3886 by channel will be OK. Akitika GT-102 is the cheaper. Very well documented.

Assembly:

[PDF] https://www.akitika.com/documents/AssemblyManualGT102rev1p19.pdf

[maty]

If you had a little experience:

Folsom EC7293: PVI Powered Frontend Amplifier, 60/120w 8/4ohm, 0.0005% THD
https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=167210.msg1783162#msg1783162


FSSA
Based on F5, class AB with more watts! by Fab. Diyaudio.com
https://fabaudio.online/fssa-amplifiers


ALL three without harmonics, very clean. Maybe too much to your taste and music.

[maty]

If you want with predominant H2 as SET tubes but SS I can say some to DIY and one commercial to buy.

How much H2? -73 dB (for not very complex recordings, that is, better to avoid with electronic and orchestral music)  or -85 dB (a compromise, to ALL kind of recordings).

[pierre.ch@outlook.com]

If you want with predominant H2 as SET tubes but SS I can say some to DIY and one commercial to buy.

How much H2? -73 dB (for not very complex recordings, that is, better to avoid with electronic and orchestral music)  or -85 dB (a compromise, to ALL kind of recordings).

How much H2? probabely 85 dB (a compromise, to ALL kind of recordings)

[pierre.ch@outlook.com]

I don’t recall seeing what else you have in your system.  I will work backward:

1.  If you are building the XLS Encore I would strongly recommend these options:
     
- Get the standard crossover upgrade (Sonicaps, Mills, Inductors).  Spend the extra $40 or $50 for MiFlex bypass caps on the tweeters.
- Use No-Rez and a small amount of fiber fill right behind the midbass driver.
- Get the Tube Connectors.  I would also add a pair of five-way binding posts in parallel for flexibility with cables.
- Build the SLS (Tower) version.  Seriously.  It is a little more for wire, twice as much No Rez, more for the cabinet and paint, but the midbass driver is better in this larger cabinet and you won’t need speaker stands.  The bookshelf version is good, but IMO sounds better with socks stuffed in the ports.

2.  I cannot recommend a beginner SS kit for these speakers.  I think if you will get your best bang-for-the-buck with a secondhand solid state integrated.  I like the Rega Brio R and models from Exposure.  You can also luck out with a YPA Integre.

I did exactly what was suggested by ROSCOE65 above. Built X-SLS towers with all upgrades and Miflex bypass caps. Paired with IOTAVX integrated amp. WOW WOW WOW what a sound. The bass play very low,
 as stated by Roscoe65. See pictures of the speakers below. Painted with a brush and coated with waterbase varnish. Not the best finish, but sound is very good.

I am happy, Thanks Roscoe65!

Oh one important note... Do not put a screw in the center of the woofer inductor, i did put one, and I remooved it after listening Desktop mini crossover Danny's video, it made a HUGE improovement on the sound stage and the midrange.




 

[VinceT]

I have the encores, the sound stage really opens up when you feed them over 100 watts. I'd say more the better with these.