Considering Behringer BFD to smooth room bass issues

byteme · « **on:** 16 Dec 2004, 06:01 pm »

Is this worth it to play with for HT only? How long should I set aside to play with this? I'm looking at the DSP1100 pro model

zybar · « **Reply #1 on:** 16 Dec 2004, 06:22 pm »

Quote from: byteme

Is this worth it to play with for HT only? How long should I set aside to play with this? I'm looking at the DSP1100 pro model

It is worth it.

There is a website that in easy to understand terms guides you through the setup process. I will find the website and post.

I am just about to list mine since I no longer use it since buying a Tact 2.2x.

Send me a PM if you are interested.

George

Taz13 · « **Reply #2 on:** 16 Dec 2004, 07:23 pm »

http://www.snapbug.ws/bfd.htm

Try this link works great and easy to follow.

zybar · « **Reply #3 on:** 16 Dec 2004, 08:31 pm »

Quote from: Taz13

http://www.snapbug.ws/bfd.htm

Try this link works great and easy to follow.

Yup, that's the one.

George

Rob Babcock · « **Reply #4 on:** 16 Dec 2004, 10:01 pm »

The Behringer kicks ass. Yeah, I could see ditching it if you could afford the Tact. You can't go wrong with the 1124P, either, if it's just for your sub- they're only $125 new, and of course a good deal used.

The manual blows bigtime, but the online tutorial helps a lot. It could've been condensed to 1/4 the length without cutting anything important, but it's better than the Behringer manual.

It took me most of a day to get my subs smoothed out, and I fiddled with it a little over a few more days. Part of that time was spent trying to have a go at the factory manual before I gave up and used the online tutorial.

You can do pretty well with a test CD and a Rat Shack meter. I used graph paper to "map" my room frequency-wise, and played tones while measuring. Then I'd make an adjustment and measure again.

My bone-head advice is as follows: use it only as a parametric EQ, stick with 3-5 bands, and cut, don't boost. Using much more than 5 bands will take forever, and you'll get interaction between the bands. Humps are more objectionable than dips, and you can pour a lot of amp power down a hole trying to EQ a dip. You'll likely do more harm than good.

I don't know the '1000, but the 1124P gives you 10 or 12 programmed settings. I suggest you keep the setting when you get it about right and move on to another preset. That way, you can A/B the two and see if you've improved things. Plus, if you make things worse you'll have a "fall back" setting. You can even have several "house curves"- say, a slightly fuller one for HT and a slightly leaner one for music, etc. You can keep several programs, so that's pretty neat.

bubba966 · « **Reply #5 on:** 16 Dec 2004, 10:07 pm »

Another reminder that i need to get off my ass and put my modded 1124P into use.

Haven't gotten to it yet as all I ever hear about using one is they're a pain in the ass to learn. And I don't feel like my LF response is so bad. I'm sure it'll be better though after I EQ my subs with the 1124P.

byteme · « **Reply #6 on:** 16 Dec 2004, 10:45 pm »

Thanks,

I know my LF has some big humps in it just from frequency sweeps I've done almost by accident having the SPL meter on. So, we'll see how this works out. For a couple bucks if it makes enough difference in the sub's response that'll be great. I'll only use it for my SVS sub in HT (don't use it for 2 channel) so hopefully that'll make things a little easier.

byteme · « **Reply #7 on:** 16 Dec 2004, 11:05 pm »

What's the difference between the DSP-1100P and the DSP-1124P besides 24?

Are they pretty much the same save for the latter is a new model?

Rob Babcock · « **Reply #8 on:** 17 Dec 2004, 12:55 am »

A brief Google search didn't turn up that model. I didn't spend a long time looking, though. I probably overstate the difficulty with learning it. I was impatient and tried to do it without looking at the manual first (like I always do!

). One day I should fiddle with mine some more and write my own brief tutorial, if for no other reason than if I should forget how to set up. It'd be easy to boil it down to a couple pages.

Bubba, I didn't think my bass was bad, either. But the Behringer did wonders for it.

Russtafarian · « **Reply #9 on:** 17 Dec 2004, 01:01 am »

I've been using a 1124 to dial in a stereo pair of dipole subs and am very happy with the results. For the dipoles I have been boosting as well as cutting.

I split the preamp stereo outputs and send one set to the main speaker power amps and the other set to the EQ. The EQ then feeds the sub amps. This way the EQ doesn't affect the signal going to the main speakers.

Next week (sometime around December 25th), I'll (hopefully) have an Outlaw ICBM so I can mix center, surround and LFE signals to the stereo dipoles. The signal flow will be: M/C PREAMP > ICBM > 1124 > SUB AMP > SUBS. Should be fun!

bubba966 · « **Reply #10 on:** 17 Dec 2004, 01:07 am »

Quote from: Rob Babcock

A brief Google search didn't turn up that model. I didn't spend a long time looking, though.

Maybe you need some glasses.

A very quick google turns up this http://www.behringer.com/DSP1100P/index.cfm?lang=ENG

And here's the other 1,679 results for the 1100P
http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rls=DVXA,DVXA:2004-42,DVXA:en&q=Behringer+DSP%2D1100P

Rob Babcock · « **Reply #11 on:** 17 Dec 2004, 01:16 am »

Maybe I typed the model in wrong. Or it could be my glasses!

So what is the diff between the two then, smartass?

Rob Babcock · « **Reply #12 on:** 17 Dec 2004, 01:18 am »

Okay, the 1100P has "discontinued" stamped across it.

zybar · « **Reply #13 on:** 17 Dec 2004, 01:40 am »

Quote from: Rob Babcock

A brief Google search didn't turn up that model. I didn't spend a long time looking, though. I probably overstate the difficulty with learning it. I was impatient and tried to do it without looking at the manual first (like I always do! ). One day I should fiddle with mine some more and write my own brief tutorial, if for no other reason than if I should forget how to set up. It'd be easy to boil it down to a couple pages.

Bubba, I didn't think my bass was bad, either. But the Behringer did wonders for it.

Rob is right.

I thought my bass was pretty good too. After using the Behringer products I thought it was better. Now using the Tact I am in utter disbelief over how much of the small musical details I was missing.

George

Rob Babcock · « **Reply #14 on:** 17 Dec 2004, 05:06 am »

So do you just feed the Tact with the low pass? You aren't using it full range, are you?

bubba966 · « **Reply #15 on:** 17 Dec 2004, 05:33 am »

Quote from: Rob Babcock

So what is the diff between the two then, smartass?

A quick look says the main difference is the 1100P uses 20 bit A/D & D/A converters while the 1124P uses 24 bit A/D & D/A converters.

There might be other differences as well, but I'm half asleep at the moment and aren't up for deeper investigation at the moment...

zybar · « **Reply #16 on:** 17 Dec 2004, 12:17 pm »

Quote from: Rob Babcock

So do you just feed the Tact with the low pass? You aren't using it full range, are you?

I am using the Tact for both the RM 40's and the two Larger subs.

George