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These aren't exactly high end speakers to start with, so they aren't worth buying cabinets from Parts Express. If you have a table saw, I'd cut a rectangular box and use the front. That front looks like it creates a bit of wave guide, so I'd look for a way to include it. Or spray the hell out of it with Clorox and give it Goodwill. Speaking of Goodwill, you might look around for a similar cabinet. They often get non working speakers donated. Damn shame. Projects are supposed to be fun, not frustrating.
If you've got the tools then just make new boxes. Keep the front baffle width the same. Ports can be placed where you like them as a general rule. L shapes are simply a way of getting the appropriate length in the cabinet. The panel that you show to the left of the screwdriver, does it attach to the front of the speakers? If so, it is going to have an effect of the output. The driver opening creates a bit of waveguide, and the port opening adds a bit of length and smooths the movement of air in and out. That what I was suggesting that you use- if I interpret the photo correctly.
Skip the "stick in the corners", the corners already are the strongest points in the construction. No need to enforce ir even more. A better idea would be to add a connection from the baffle to the back, like the one you did from sidepanel to sidepanel. Try to keep the volume the same, and the size of the baffle the same. If you find you are losing volume because you are using thicker material, simply increase the depth of the cabinet. Also, a bit of dampening material would not hurt either. Don't put in a ton, just so that it is loosely behind the woofer without touching it, and is well away from the reflex port. Or, if you can find it, buy a piece of pritex (DO look for the high quality stuff) and glue that behind the woofer and against the top panel and side panels. Again, stay away from the reflex port.