So a little about soldering.
If you don't have a soldering pencil, or station, I recommend one of these Weller stations. Look for this blueish color (that's the color of the commercial grade ones). You can normally find them used for pretty cheap. The station works way better than just an isolated pencil. The temperature is more reliable, and there is much less chance of cold joints or damaged components from over heating them. I bought a similar station to this for around $40-$50. The one I'm using here was found on the side of the road!
In the picture below you will see a little black thing with a copper scrubbing pad in it. This is to clean the tip before and after soldering components. I like this better than the wet sponge.
That marker you see is flux. This is a liquid one -- Kester 951. I chose this because it's a popular no-clean flux. It also has anticorrosion properties. Solder normally has flux in it, but I can't imagine soldering without this stuff. Everything flows way nicer. Not to mention increasing the efficiency of de-soldering braid.
You can change the tips on the Weller. These Weller tips are almost indestructible. They don't deteriorate like the cheaper tips. I have a fine pointy one for small stuff, but I chose to use a decently sized chisel tip for this.
Always tin your tip when setting aside the iron!
Coating the leads in flux. If you are going to use this marker, be careful. I haven't used it a time where it hasn't leaked on me.
Ooooohh, look at that.
Using the back of the iron to shrink the heat shrink.
I'm trying to gauge what length of wire I need.
The tweeter network is much smaller, and is going to be placed on the back. This resistor lead is a little short to join to the other side.
I'm gonna have to use a wire to connect the positive woofer network to the positive tweeter network. You can see an area I stripped where the resistor will join.
I soldered it and heat shrunk it before bending it where I want.
This is the back side. You can see where the resistor connects to that stripped area in the top left.
So I ran into a little trouble with the original inductor. One end soldered just fine, while the other end that was trimmed did not want to stick, and looked all kinds of bad. What I didn't realize is that the coating is preventing me from soldering it!
I took a razor blade and scraped all sides of it, getting it as clean as I can.
And bam! Clean contact.
Checking continuity (one of the few multimeter settings I know) just to make sure it's good.
Here I'm de-soldering the contacts that go to the binding posts.
Could have used the pump or the braid, but I heated it up...
And quickly jammed it in the copper scrub pad. Nice!
Twisted that solid wire through the hole.
And heat shrink.
Did the other one, and then realized I forgot something...
Damn it I can't count how many times I've forgotten to slide a piece of heat shrink on before soldering. I twisted this wire even harder through the hole. Took about 10 minutes of de-soldering and working with the pliers. I almost wanted to cut the whole thing.
I used the woofer side for a common negative point. This lead from the cap goes to the woofer negative. I put the negative binding post lead here.
The negative lead for the tweeter comes off the original unwound inductor on the other side. One of these wires is running to that inductor, then continues on to become the negative tweeter lead.
Three white wires coming off the bottom:
That original inductor I had trouble with? Well I had to de-solder it when I figured out how I was going to do the negative. I spliced one of those three wires towards the middle where I wrapped the inductor lead around (similar to how I did it with that resistor).
You can see it soldered to the splice here:
Here is another view of it:
Another one of those wires is the negative for the woofer, and the negative for the binding post. I guess I could have put the binding post negative on the tweeter side, but I didn't want to mess with the very thin inductor wire too much.
If works without blowing up, I'll be using some silicone to solidify things in place, and cover up the copper wire that heat shrink can't get to.