OB baffle material

skite30 · « **on:** 19 Feb 2017, 03:51 pm »

Puttin together a project with the tang band w8-1808 and pure audio project modified emenance 15a neo. First OB build so am looking for baffle material. What is a high quality wood or ? To use as the baffle. I built a mock up baffle out of old plywood that vibrates like crazy. Initial impressions of 15 hours r very favorable.

WC · « **Reply #1 on:** 19 Feb 2017, 05:06 pm »

I was going to do a similar build later this year. I was going to use solid cherry for the baffles. I may need to use some additional supports across the back of the baffle. Never done it before, so I don't know how it will work until I do it.

PDR · « **Reply #2 on:** 19 Feb 2017, 07:11 pm »

Quote from: skite30 on 19 Feb 2017, 03:51 pm

Puttin together a project with the tang band w8-1808 and pure audio project modified emenance 15a neo. First OB build so am looking for baffle material. What is a high quality wood or ? To use as the baffle. I built a mock up baffle out of old plywood that vibrates like crazy. Initial impressions of 15 hours r very favorable.

I agree, very favorable. Mine seem to get better with every hour that goes by.

I've built a bunch of speakers in the last 8 yrs or so. 2 Selah line arrays, 2 dual boxed subs, center channel, GR V1 and Super V
all with MDF and with painted or veneered finish.

Just recently finished exactly the same project as yours....neo 15a and Tang Band 1808.
This time I wanted to use natural wood.....decided on laminated Pine boards.
I placed braces about 3/4" x 1-1/2" between every driver and at top and bottom.
Glued and screwed (from the back) so far so good.

The other day Danny from GR mentioned he would, if using natural wood laminate
a piece of 1/4" MDF on the back of the baffle....that seems like a great idea and if
I were to build again, thats exactly what I would do.

What are you doing for the cross-over? Active or passive?

Heres a pic of the back showing the braces....good luck on your project!

Perry

skite30 · « **Reply #3 on:** 19 Feb 2017, 09:33 pm »

They look great. I am running the 1808 full range and using plate amps on the woofers. Currently dayton 100 watt amps. I may change the plate amps but will break in woofers first. I have one woofer per side. Amazing how much they have changed over the first 15 hours. Considering I am using zip wires, awful baffles a sony 1001 cd player and an inexpensive el84 amp. These things sound really good.

Wind Chaser · « **Reply #4 on:** 20 Feb 2017, 06:07 pm »

Quote from: skite30 on 19 Feb 2017, 03:51 pm

Puttin together a project with the tang band w8-1808 and pure audio project modified emenance 15a neo.

What mods did you do to the 15a?

Wind Chaser · « **Reply #5 on:** 20 Feb 2017, 06:09 pm »

PS: Got a picture or two you'd like to share?

WC · « **Reply #6 on:** 20 Feb 2017, 06:38 pm »

Quote from: Wind Chaser on 20 Feb 2017, 06:07 pm

What mods did you do to the 15a?

I would guess this is what he is talking about. Pure audio project sells a modified version of the Neo 15A.

http://www.pureaudioproject.com/product/15inch-open-baffle-bass-woofers/

PDR · « **Reply #7 on:** 20 Feb 2017, 08:45 pm »

Quote from: WC on 20 Feb 2017, 06:38 pm

I would guess this is what he is talking about. Pure audio project sells a modified version of the Neo 15A.

http://www.pureaudioproject.com/product/15inch-open-baffle-bass-woofers/

Yes, thats what I'd assume as well.
They are only available from PAP distributors, I bought mine from Grant Fidelity......$699US for a quad set.

WC · « **Reply #8 on:** 20 Feb 2017, 09:33 pm »

Quote from: PDR on 20 Feb 2017, 08:45 pm

Yes, thats what I'd assume as well.
They are only available from PAP distributors, I bought mine from Grant Fidelity......$699US for a quad set.

In US it is direct sales. You can buy it from that link I posted. $749.99 including shipping in the US.

PDR · « **Reply #9 on:** 20 Feb 2017, 10:12 pm »

Just looked at the GF site and they're $749US now as well.......lucky me

skite30 · « **Reply #10 on:** 20 Feb 2017, 10:38 pm »

I picked up my pair from PAP for 399 shipped. I will take a picture of the baffles but they r old knock ups for a 15a project with a fostex fe-103 and then several different 8 and 4 inch drivers. They sat in the garage for years and r well warped. With several different size holes in them. Made of birch plywood. So dont expect much. I am planning something along the lines of the PAP first open baffle duet. I am certainly open to other design ideas as well.

skite30 · « **Reply #11 on:** 21 Feb 2017, 02:41 am »

Wind Chaser · « **Reply #12 on:** 21 Feb 2017, 08:17 am »

Quote from: skite30 on 20 Feb 2017, 10:38 pm

I will take a picture of the baffles but they r old knock ups for a 15a project with a fostex fe-103 and then several different 8 and 4 inch drivers. They sat in the garage for years and r well warped. With several different size holes in them. Made of birch plywood. So dont expect much. I am planning something along the lines of the PAP first open baffle duet. I am certainly open to other design ideas as well.

I hear what you are saying, but believe it or not I'm thinking your basic design (as shown above) may have a significant advantage over the PAP. I'm guessing the PAP situates the 1808 from the VC about 24" up the baffle, whereas you have positioned it roughly another 8" further up. Many say / ideally prefer the tweeter to be at ear level. Whether we talking about a two way design or single full range driver, it is my conviction that a few inches either way has a profound effect on the presentation. Too low isn't my cup of tea. After hours of careful consideration, I much prefer the presentation when the VC is some what higher relative to my ears.

YMMV

aragon63 · « **Reply #13 on:** 21 Feb 2017, 01:03 pm »

Baltic Birch ply

Wind Chaser · « **Reply #14 on:** 22 Feb 2017, 05:32 pm »

Nice, what is the top driver?

skite30 · « **Reply #15 on:** 22 Feb 2017, 06:22 pm »

Well done. 31 inches. Looks like an fe-103 to me. Quite impressed with the 1808. I have had several other 8 in h drivers but none sounded near this good with only 35 hours on them.l or 500 for that matter. Still hoping for some more advice on baffle material.

aragon63 · « **Reply #16 on:** 22 Feb 2017, 11:57 pm »

Quote from: Wind Chaser on 22 Feb 2017, 05:32 pm

Nice, what is the top driver?

Fostex FE103-SOL anniversary edition

Wind Chaser · « **Reply #17 on:** 23 Feb 2017, 05:30 am »

Quote from: skite30 on 22 Feb 2017, 06:22 pm

Still hoping for some more advice on baffle material.

I've only worked with MDF. If I am not mistaken, that is the material both Emerald Physics and Spatial Audio use for their products. Apart from aesthetics, does it really matter? I haven't read anything conclusive one way or the other. If one likes wood grain, there is a lot to choose from...

https://www.westwindhardwood.com/product-category/hardwoods/

PS: Skite, have you heard the Wild Burrow Betsy? If so, how does it compare to the TB 1808?

skite30 · « **Reply #18 on:** 23 Feb 2017, 05:34 pm »

Thanks for the link. Some of that wood is really nice. Looks r of course secondary to the sound. I am just looking for advice on a material that is reasonably priced and doesnt vibrate excessively.

Wind Chaser · « **Reply #19 on:** 23 Feb 2017, 05:56 pm »

Well you could reinforce the baffle with steel around the perimeter; or better yet (and cheaper to) you could sandwich a thin layer of cork, foam, or rubber between two layers of MDF. Then mount the woofers on the back side and the main driver on the front... I would think the damping material in the middle should mitigate a lot of vibration. Of course you could go whole hog and do both with the steel and sandwich idea.