[zybar]

On another thread there was a discussion about replacing the outlets and wiring in a Monster power conditioner.

I would like to try and do this.

I just opened up the Monster and here are a few pics:





Question 1:

How do I disconnect the wire from the outlet?  The ground is attached via a screw, but the black/white wires are secured inside the outlet.

Question 2:

Which wire should be replaced?

Obviously I am totally new at this, but I would like to learn.  If there is a different place I should go, just point me there.

Thanks,

George

[bubba966]

This is an HTS3500?

Doesn't quite look like mine.

It's hard to tell, but it looks like the wires are installed into the back of the outlet via the tension loaded rear wiring slots. If so, there should be a very small slot that you can insert a very, very small flat bladed screwdriver to release the tension on the wire as you pull it out.

I can't tell how the hot & nuetral wires are connected to the PCB. Can you tell how they're installed George?

In mine, they're just screwed to it. But my board looks a bit different than yours. I don't remember the revision of my HTS3500 though...

As far as which wire to replace, I just replaced the wiring hot/neutral/ground that was directly connected to the outlets. So that only involved the wiring between the PCB & the outlet as wel as the wire that was from the grounding screw to the outlets.

[Dan Banquer]

I have two questions for you.
Why are considering doing this?, and what do you hope to accomplish?
         d.b.
Not to worry: I'm not going to flame you.

[bubba966]

Can you tell if the wiring to the outlets is the same 14awg stranded aluminum that I had in my 3500? If it's not, maybe you won't need to replace it...

[zybar]

Can you tell if the wiring to the outlets is the same 14awg stranded aluminum that I had in my 3500? If it's not, maybe you won't need to replace it...

I think it is 14awg aluminum.  I have no idea how it is connected to the board.  Looks like the board would have to come up in order to see how it is secured.

I was able to get the wire out per your instructions.

Now the outlets I have to replace it don't fit.     They have the tabs above and below the outlet to connect it to the box.

George

[zybar]

I have two questions for you.
Why are considering doing this?, and what do you hope to accomplish?
         d.b.
Not to worry: I'm not going to flame you.

Because when I replaced the outlets in my wall, I heard a difference, so I would hoping for the same here.

Improved sound.

George

[bubba966]

Now the outlets I have to replace it don't fit.     They have the tabs above and below the outlet to connect it to the box.

I forgot about that part of replacing those outlets... Just cut/bend the tabs off.

[JoshK]

The wires in the outlet are push-in type termination. I think they do this because it is easier to manufacture.  Recommend you use screw type termination on the outlets you replace these with.   Also recommend you keep the ferrite beads around the output wiring.  This apparently can attenuate noise that is non-differential type noise.   I noticed a pretty big difference with my own PC with and without these beads on my plasma screen.  I left them in.  Makes sense to me know why they should be.

Oh, you should be able to pull the wiring out of the outlet.  I came across this a couple times and was able to pull it out.  It is pressure fitted inside but should come out with a little bit of force.

[satfrat]

Radio Shack makes a dandy little metal cutter called the Nibbler if you need to do any trimming for the new outlets George. This little Nibbler is worth it's weight in gold for trimming out holes and such.   Regards, Robin

[zybar]

Ok, made some progress this afternoon - thanks for the help guys.

I have disconnected all the outlets and removed the board from the chassis (making sure to note where all wires connect to the board).

The bad news is that the wires that go from the board to the outlets are soldered to the board.  Guess this means things will be a little tougher than originally thought.

George

[zybar]

This is an HTS3500?

Doesn't quite look like mine.

It's hard to tell, but it looks like the wires are installed into the back of the outlet via the tension loaded rear wiring slots. If so, there should be a very small slot that you can insert a very, very small flat bladed screwdriver to release the tension on the wire as you pull it out.

I can't tell how the hot & nuetral wires are connected to the PCB. Can you tell how they're installed George?

In mine, they're just screwed to it. Bu ...

OOPS!!  

My unit is a HTS5000, not a HTS3500 as I originally thought.

George

[Scott F.]

I just opened up the Monster and here are a few pics:



Question 1:

How do I disconnect the ...

If you look closely, right along side of the hot and neutral there is a round hole (appox 1/8" dia) with a beveled edge. Disconnect the power (duh) and push a nail or an awl into that round hole. When the nail bottoms out, push a little harder. You will find that it moves in (to a point). Hold the nail in and pull the hot and neutral out with a pair of needle nose pliers.

What you are doing is releasing an internal clamping mechanism in the outlet. Once released, the wire slides right out (with some effort).

As for your new outlets, trim the top and bottom 'ears' with a pair of tin snips (or something). The new outlet should fit right in there.

You can spend the money on a pretty orange Hubbell at about $15 each but if you look at the Industrial Grade Leviton with the isolated ground (15 amp version with the gray face) you will see that the two are identicle (save the orange color).

There is one other notable difference. The Hubbell is rated at 20 amps. If you look at the orange cover you will notice the hot has (not only) a verticle slot for the blade but a horizontal slot for a 20 amp male plug. Inside of both duplex recepticles you will see the 'pinchers' for the horizontal hot male blade (if that makes sense). The only difference between these two recepticles (besides color and name) is the Hubbell has the 20 amp horizontal blade slot, the Leviton doesn't. Both have the same internals and isolated ground feature.

The Leviton costs $9 at Home Depot.

Once upon a time not too long ago I dissected a pair of these and was going to write an article about it. It's one of the great ideas that never made it to the silver screen.

Want a little tweakier approach? Send it to your local (hot rod) machine shop and have them Cryo'd for a cost of about $5 each. Heck, for that matter have the whole unit cryo'd for about $25.

[zybar]

Thanks Scott.

What about cryo'd Pass and Seymour 5262A outlets?

I can get these for $16/each from Chris at VH Audio.

What do you recommend for wire?

George

[Scott F.]

Thanks Scott.

What about cryo'd Pass and Seymour 5262A outlets?

I can get these for $16/each from Chris at VH Audio.

What do you recommend for wire?

Hiya George,

Well, looking at the pics and guessing a little, if you increase the wire size I'd bet you'd have to drill out the holes in your circuit board. You'll have to be careful. When I've done this before, I applied a bit too much pressure and pushed the trace right off the other side of the board so be careful and take your time drilling them out.

As for the wire, surf over to
http://www.worldwidewire.com
Look up some 12 gauge, silver plated copper with 600 volt insulation. This stuff is stiff so you will have a devil of a time wrapping them back through the ferrites (those round cylindical green things the hot and neutral run through) on your board. The wire is really cheap over there. He sells it by the foot and I don't think there is a minimum.

While you are at it let me suggest some nice 18 or 20 gauge wire for some DIY interconnects and speaker wire. Be sure to get the teflon coated silver plated copper. He even offers wire with a braided shield. It's a great place to wire shop for the DIY kinda guys.

Oh, this guy is a surplus wire dealer. If you don't want the silver/copper, he has plenty of standard copper with teflon too.

Hope that helps

[JoshK]

Scott is right, I forgot about the putting the pin in to release the clamp.  How easily I forget these days.  

[Scott F.]

Ooops, I forgot  

The Pass and Seymore outlets should be just fine. I haven't played with them but (like everybody else), I've heard good things

[Bob Wilcox]

George

I have had good luck with the silver plated & cryroed Acme outlets. They also make silver plated IEC chassis mount power cord connectors and fuse holders. This improved the sound on my EP-15.

The stock Hubbells had a super grip and excellent bass control but were not all that great in the treble or mids compared to plugging things direct into an Acme wall outlet. There was definately a detail degradation attributable to the additinional connections.

After swapping the outlets, power cord connector and fuse holder, I did not feel the need to replace the wiring. I left a few of the Hubbells in to provide a tonality alternative.

Bob

[JoshK]

oddly, I have not really liked the acme's I have used.  For one I like a tighter grip, it bothers me when the plug sags.  I have used a few other outlets but the unplated hubbell 20amp outlets I have liked the best.  To each his own I guess.

[PhilNYC]

oddly, I have not really liked the acme's I have used.  For one I like a tighter grip, it bothers me when the plug sags.  I have used a few other outlets but the unplated hubbell 20amp outlets I have liked the best.  To each his own I guess.

Aren't the Acme's just cryo'd and silver-plated Pass&Seymour's?  I use them, and the grip is just fine...

[JoshK]

The ones I tried didn't have a very good grip and I have owned 4 to date.  I think they are P&S, but P&S makes many different outlets.  CVH on his website talks about P&S and more or less suggests that only one of the P&S outlets is any good.