[Davey]

No, you don't have "Zero Protection."  Your power amplifier may have considerable protection for your drivers inherently built in.

You're falling into the same marketing trap you've just spent a few paragraphs explaining that you're aware of. 

Dave.

[undertow]

No, you don't have "Zero Protection."  Your power amplifier may have considerable protection for your drivers inherently built in.

You're falling into the same marketing trap you've just spent a few paragraphs explaining that you're aware of. 

Dave.

As for the marketing diatribe I was simply pointing it out because this is an audio discussion correct? Well I was again just pointing out don't fall for the hype, however there is MERIT to using better materials in a fuse as it is a Very low conduction choke point if you need to use a fuse at all.

That being said I also disagree with the cost.

I am sure though that cost is necessary for this company to even justify giving us fuses at all. Because I can guarantee if you had to run a batch of 10,000 fuses in various sizes and values each fuse probably only has 1 dollar of silver, and materials tops in it, but waiting to find 10,000 Audiophiles to buy every size over the next 5 years is very likely a costly endeavor for them or just shut it down, and I have no doubt many go unused, and sit in dealer warehouses. But there must be some demand so they do it anyway.

Another thing I will say that at least now SR offers money back, good luck getting that on any fuse or even a trial period so they got that going for them too which is probably how they get most to pay $120 a fuse.

[Davey]

I'm not sure how much clearer I can make my point.  Focus.

The money-back guarantee is irrelevant.  Generally, the fragile audiophile ego will not allow a person to admit they made a poor purchasing decision.  They will rationalize the decision and probably not make use of the money-back guarantee.  Much more likely is the parts/gadget/whatever will show up on Fleabay or other used markets instead.
Sales/marketing people are well aware of this characteristic......especially those sales people in audio. 

Dave.

[undertow]

The money-back guarantee is irrelevant.  Generally, the fragile audiophile ego will not allow a person to admit they made a poor purchasing decision.  They will rationalize the decision and probably not make use of the money-back guarantee. 
Dave.

I do think you are diluting reality if you believe a guy will buy 4 of these things at $500 bucks, not like what they hear and keep them without shipping back when given the chance. Sorry, but I can guarantee you that if it was that easy none of these forums would exist for advice!

But I am not defending that I believe this is some "Alien" technology worth copious amounts of money so I think you are getting my entire demeanor here completely wrong.

Believe me most audio-fools are much smarter than eating a $120 dollar fuse if they don't like it, and have a chance to return it! Trust me on that, Ego or not.

[Davey]

I'm not all over the place.  You appear to be reading between the lines.....which you should never do with me. 

I don't think the OP's original premise is even valid since I doubt he evaluated his speakers with the fuses bypassed completely.  THAT would be a valid reference point to start with vice a comparison to the stock glass fuses that Maggies are supplied with.

I could be guilty of being delusional and diluting reality on what an audiophile will spend his money on though.  I'll give you that. 

Dave.

[undertow]

Okay... Well look there will be a million discussions on whether fuses are worth it or make a difference.

In any case one point being missed here is you did not come out and state your stance was just to bypass them in the speakers, you simply stated :

"Fuses are an archaic safety device.  Especially in this application.  Spending $250 on a pair of them is just nuts.
Much better alternatives have been discussed previously on this forum and others.

Steve, money spent on motorcycle stuff is much better spent!    I'm doing that myself currently.

Dave."

Bypassing is not only true in speakers, but Electronics as well. However, it's not very recommended taking that risk if you don't want to burn your house down at some point.

Then again nobody was disputing or even considering that. But what they do is conduct better with possible power supply results over most archaic protection devices.

[undertow]

 

[Davey]

My goodness.  Once again you're reading between the lines and extrapolating a position for me. 

I've already expended way more mental bandwidth on this topic than I think it deserves. 

Here's my opinion.....worth what you paid for it.  Spending money on this type of fuse schlock is a complete waste.
If a person think fuses (of whatever type) are hindering the audible performance of their systems, then simply remove them.  (There are other ways to protect speaker transducers if you think they need it.)

Just so we're clear, I DO NOT advocate removing fuses in line-powered components. 

Dave.

[undertow]

If a person believe that fuses are contributing audibly then, by definition, removing them should yield the best results.  Unless, of course, you think the non-linearities contributed are audibly beneficial.
How the fuse sounds is irrelevant, since if it does have a sound, then it is obviously contributing a non-linearity to the system.  The issue is whether they open correctly per their advertised rating.  (Which I suspect these boutique fuses are not.)

The simple fact is:  The key to protecting your drivers is the power amplifier and its design....not passive devices placed in between.

Dave.

No problem I am with you and agree, but I did not go dig thru threads to find out even what you were talking about.

[Davey]

Regardless we are both in agreement about the price tag, but I guarantee if they were $25 bucks your curiosity might change......

Uh, no.    Yet again reading between the lines.

Dave.

[undertow]

okay

[Davey]

I've already mentioned my preferred "solution while still keeping some form of protection in the circuit."  Are you actually reading my posts??
There are many fuse alternatives.  PTC's, breakers, light bulbs, etc, etc.  None of which I find acceptable from a subjective and/or objective POV.  Selection of a good amplifier that can protect both itself and the speaker load is by far the best option.  It should be designed with (among other things) positive disconnection of the speaker load if any internal failure occurs and/or inappropriate input signal is present.

This topic has been discussed previously right here in the Planar Circle and on the Planar Asylum numerous times.  (I've commented on it numerous times myself.)

The very nature of Magnepan speakers (with the exception of the real ribbon tweeters) makes them extremely robust and essentially immune to turn on/off thumps and various other normal and abnormal transients that might occur.  You could make an argument that some sort of catastrophic failure would be extremely bad news.  But in that case the woofers should be fused as well, yes?? 

Nothing is 100% of course and, by definition, nothing is audiophile proof. 
So, let's also keep it real.  Even a burnt out driver is not the end of the world.  In this case, we have the Magnepan factory on the other end of a telephone call and they can fix you up with replacement driver and/or repair service.

Dave.

[undertow]

So saying I did not read your responses is not true. Did you read back to your responses?

You did not mention anything in this thread about Light bulbs, PTC, Circuit breakers etc... 

You said "This topic has been discussed previously right here in the Planar Circle and on the Planar Asylum numerous times.  (I've commented on it numerous times myself.)"

How would anyone reading this know until you just said this literally right now?

Anyway no big deal. Thanks for the info.

[undertow]

 If I use a green light bulb to replace the fuse will it be closer to the sound of "Money"?

[Davey]

Now you're just being a jerk.

Take care.

Dave.

[SteveFord]

Please to be knocking it off, thank you.

[Barry100]

While this topic appears to have been pretty beat to death, I'll add my 2cents worth in terms of the larger scheme of all the many options in changing to your Maggies. The fuses SR, or otherwise, are at the bottom of the list. I thought the fuse tweak was more significant than it was until I did all the following:

1) optimizing speaker set-up in room.  Not free - it's a lot of work!
2) Mye stands / crossover parts upgrade (especially those XO parts in series with drivers) / bi/tri-amping
3) wiring upgrade of cryo'd 6 9s OFC 
4) bypass fuse, fuseholder and those awful jumpers 
5) hi-end fuses, binding post upgrades, remove the socks

IMHO, these are very roughly listed in order and grouped on the sonic impact based on use of hi-quality replacements. Order might change if you cheap out on the upgrade components. Understandably, many will not want to do some of these things.

I'd be very careful about removing fuses so pay attention to advice above. Oh, I'm running over 400 watts from a hybrid tube/SS amp just into the tweeter/midrange and I've never blown a tweeter, nor am I worried about it at my listening levels. YMMV!

[limniscate]

I tested the SR Reds on my 1.7i's and could not tell a difference, so I sent them back.  However, I'm pretty sure that I could tell a difference when I switched the stock jumper to Empirical Design jumpers.

[I.Greyhound Fan]

I just bought a pair of AMR Gold Tuning fuses for my Magnepan 1.6's since they are relatively inespensive.  Initial impressions are that they do make a subtle but noticeable change.  I have about 1 hour on them and I am not impressed.  They took some of the low end bloom away and high's seem a little irritating especially on female vocals.  I am not imagining it as my son who has a very good ear agrees.   I will give them about 20 hours of play.  I was surprised that they made a difference as I am a skeptic when it comes to things like this.